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Aug. 19, 1947.
2,426,057
J. H. SCHWEICH
SEWING. SEAM AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME
Filed July. 17, 1944
lM/ew-rwe:
Joseph’ H. ScHwszcH,
Patented Aug. 119, 1947
2,426,057
STATES PATENT OFFICEv
2,426,057
SEWING SEAM AND METHOD OF MAKING
SAME
.l'oseph H. Schweich, St. Louis, Mo., assignor to
Wcil-Kalter Manufacturing Company, St.
Louis, Mo., a corporation of Missouri
Application July 17, 1944, Serial No. 545,211
5 Claims.
(Cl. 112——262)
2
A
This invention relates to a new sewing seam and
stitching, the needle being illustrated diagram
the method of making the same, and has particu
lar applicability for use in seaming sheer material,
matically as performing a zigzag stitch;
Fig. 7 is a plan View of a fragment of the mate
rial after the second operation has been per
such as used in women’s lingerie, and the like.
It
will be recognized, however, that the improve; 5 formed; and,
ments have a wide range of application.
Fig. 8 is an enlarged section through the mate
rial, illustrating the completed seam taken sub
stantially on the line 8—8 of Fig. '7.
In the embodiment of the invention illustrated
the material, both of which are pinked on the free 10 in the drawing, the ?rst step is to assemble two
edges, and then to turn the material and top stitch
plies l and 2 of the material to be seamed ?atwise
with a zigzag needle to form the completed seam.
in the relation shown in Fig. 1. The two plies of
This method produces'a strong seam but the inside
material are then stitched through by a single
of the seam, since it is un?nished at the edges, has
needle 3 forming a stitch 4. While a single needle
a tendency to fray and ravel, ultimately causing 15 stitch is shown, the line of stitching may be of any
the seam to stretch and pull out. Moreover, a
desired type of stitch. During the stitching oper
In the manufacture of garments, and particu
larly those of sheer material, it has been the usual
practice to form the seam adjacent to two edges of
seam of this character does not have as desirable
ation, the marginal edges of both plies extending
an appearance as one that is hemmed or inturned.
beyond the stitch line 4 are preferably trimmed by
a trimmer 5, and by insetting a rod or cord 6 that
Another method is to join the adjacent edges of
the cloth by a single needle seam, leaving a margin
at each side of approximately 1/4".
This margin
is then opened out and the trimmed edges hemmed
and held by a single needle stitch. A seam of this
character requires the ?nishing stitch to sew
through ?ve thicknesses of the material. While 25
a ?nished seam of this character has a neat
appearance, it has disadvantages in that it pro
duces a seam that is unduly thick; one that is not
bows the marginal edge of the upper ply upwardly,
leaving the edges of both plies free and trimmed.
The rod or cord 6 affords greater width of the
margin '1 from the stitch line to the edge of the
upper ply than the margin 8 of the lower ply, so
that when the stitch and trimming is completed,
the relationship of the marginal edges are as
indicated in Fig. 2.
It will'be obvious that the insertion of the cord
strong enough to avoid “popping” and, as a result,
or rod provides a convenient means for obtaining
the garments, such as women’s light slips, do not 30 the differential in length of the margin of the two
wear or drape well.
plies beyond the stitch line, but that the same
It is the object of the present invention to over
result can be accomplished by hand trimming, or
come the foregoing disadvantages inherent in the
other suitable means, the only objective being to
present methods of seaming, and to provide a seam
obtain the overlapping and extension of the edge
that will be strong in order to avoid pulling out; 35 of the upper ply beyond that of the lower ply.
that will not be unduly thick at the seam line, and
After the ?rst step of the stitching has been
which will have a neat and ?nished appearance.
accomplished, as illustrated in Figs. 1-3, the plies
Such a seam also does not interfere with proper
are straightened out, as illustrated in Fig. 4, and
draping of the garment.
turned over as illustrated in Fig. 5.
These advantages are obtained by the seam and 40
The second sewing stitch of the operation is
method of making the same as is hereinafter more
illustrated in Fig. 6. This consists in performing
fully disclosed, reference being made to the accom
a folding, which inturns the marginal edge 1 of the
panying drawing in which:
now upper margin of the greater width, under the
Fig. 1 illustrates the ?rst step in the operation,
margin 8 of less width, the relation of parts being
the needle and trimmer being indicated diagram 45 as illustrated in Fig. 8. At the bend of the margin
matically;
of the upper ply a line of stitch [0 preferably made
Fig, 2 shows the relation of the parts as a result
by a zigzag needle I l, and preferably engaging the
of the ?rst operation shown in Fig. 1;
edge of enfolded ply, is co-instantly performed
Fig. 3 is a plan view of a fragment of the mate
with the hemming operation.
rial in which the ?rst step has been performed;
50
While the zigzag stitch is preferred, as it pro
Fig. 4 illustrates the second step of opening out
vides a strong seam, a single needle or other type
the material;
of stitch may be substituted.
Fig. 5 illustrates the material reversed and in
By reference to Fig. 8, it will be noted that this
position to be inturned and hemmed;
manner of stitching results in a ?at seam, be
Fig. 6 illustrates the ?nal step of completing the 55 cause the threads of the stitch pass only through
2,426,057
three full layers of material and engage only the
edge of the shorter marginal edge of the lower
Ply
The stitching thus produced results in a strong
bond between the sections of the material, that
is relatively flat and one that has a ?nished ap
pearance. A stitch of this character will not pull
4
stitching along a predetermined line. and stitch
ing them together along the line, and simultane
ously with the stitching operation trimming the
pieces at different distances from the line, there
by providing marginal edges on the two pieces
beyond the stitching with one marginal edge
wider than the other, thereafter folding the
wider marginal edge over the narrower marginal
open with ordinary strain, even with very sheer
edge to provide a fold arrangement, folding the
material. The stitch is ?at enough to prevent
any puckering at the seam line, and thus avoids 10 arrangement thus formed down against the piece
of fabric having the narrower edge to dispose the
unsatisfactory draping of a garment manufac
inturned wider edge against the said piece, and
tured with the stitch disclosed.
stitching the arrangement down to the said piece.
It will thus be seen that the improvement here
in disclosed solves a di?icult problem in sewing,
particularly of garments of light sheer material.
While its particular virtue is for use in connec
tion with such material, it will be understood that
4. A method of forming a seam joining two
pieces of fabric, comprising the steps of supply
ing two pieces of fabric to a stitching de
vice for stitching along a predetermined line,
the stitch has additional uses as a satisfactory
and stitching them together along said line,
- line to lift one marginal edge out of the plane of
pieces of fabric, comprising the steps of supply
the other, separating the portions from overlying
position to a position wherein they extend op
positely from the line of stitching, with the mar
ginal edges extending outwardly therefrom, turn
ing together along a predetermined line, and
stitching the pieces together along said line while
trimming the two pieces while they are en
means of joining cloth of varying thickness.
It will be understood that the invention is not 20 gaged and held by the stitching device at dif
ferent distances from the line, thereby providing
to bev limited beyond the scope of the appended
marginal edges on the two pieces beyond the
claims.
stitching
with one marginal edge wider than the
What I claim is:
other, thereafter folding the wider marginal edge
1. A method of stitching two portions of ma
over the narrower marginal edge to provide a
terial together, comprising laying one portion on
fold arrangement, folding the arrangement thus
top of the other with their edges overlapping in
formed down against the piece of fabric having
superposed relation, stitching the portions to
the narrower edge to dispose the inturned wider
gether to provide marginal edges and simultane
edge against the said piece, and stitching the ar
ously causing one edge to be wider outside the
rangement down to the said piece.
stitching than the other, by inserting a bulging
5. A method of forming a seam joining two
device between the portions outside the stitch
ing the wider marginal edge around the narrow
er, and stitching the margin down to one of the
ing two pieces of fabric to a stitching device with
the one piece disposed above the other for stitch
they are one abOVe the other, and simultaneously
with the stitching operation trimming their edges
at different distances from the line, thereby pro
2. A method of stitching two portions of ma 40 viding marginal edges on the two pieces beyond
the stitching with one marginal edge wider than
terial together, including the steps of laying one
the other, thereafter folding the wider marginal
portion on top of the other adjacent their edges,
edge over the narrower marginal edge to provide
stitching the portions together along a stitch
a fold arrangement, folding the arrangement
line inside their edges to provide a marginal edge
thus formed down against the piece of fabric
on each, bulging the top margin relative to the
having the narower edge to dispose the inturned
other, simultaneously trimming through both
portions.
margins beyond the bulge, whereby to provide the
two margins with de?nite widths, one wider than
the other, separating the portions from overly
ing position to a position wherein they extend 50
oppositely from. the line of stitching, with the
marginal edges extending outwardly therefrom,
turning the wider marginal edge around the
narrower, folding the turned portions down over
the portion having the narrower margin and
stitching vthe margin down to said portion having
the narrower margin.
3. A method of forming a seam joining two
pieces of fabric, comprising the steps of supply
ing two pieces of fabric to a stitching device for 60
wider edge against the said piece, and stitching
the arrangement down to the said piece.
‘
JOSEPH H. SCHWEICH.
REFERENCES CITED
The following references are of record in the
file of this patent:
UNITED STATES PATENTS
Number
Name
Date
1,504,550
Gruman __________ __ Aug. 12, 1924
2,169,590
520,292
Myers ____________ __ Aug. 15, 1939
Betz ____________ __ May 22, 1894
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