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Патент USA US2052516

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Aug. 25, 1936.
2,052,516 Y
Original Filed Dec. 28, 1954
3 Sheets-Sheet l
Aug. 25, 1936.
Original Filed Dec. 28, 1934
3 Sheets-Sheet 2
‘ Aug. 25, 1936.
Original Filed Dec. 28, 1934
3 Sheets-Sheet 3
Patentec'l- Aug‘. 25, 1936
Max Popper, Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to Top
stitch Machine Corp. , New York, N. Y.', a cor
Doration of New York
Original application December 28, 1934, Serial
No. 7 593449. Divided and this application 0c
vtober ‘l, 1935, Serial No. 43,938
2 Claims. (01. 112-262)
This invention is directed broadly to a method
of prodding a pinked and topstitched seam for
sewed arelcles, wherein the edge portions of two
sections of fabric are upturned and simultaneous
5 1y pinked and then downfolded with the pinked
edges facing in one direction and sewed together
with a zig-zag topstitch to form an edge-folded
and pinked elastic seam substantially flat on its
normally exposed surface.
An object of this invention is to provide an
edge-folded, zig-zag topstitched elastic seam sub
stantially flat on the normally exposed surfaces
of the garment by a single passage through an
edge-folding and overedge stitching zig-zag sew
.5 ing machine.‘
Another object of this invention is to provide
an edge-trimmed and topstitched seam in succes
sive steps of upturning, trimming and downfold
7 ing the edges of two or more sections of fabric
50‘ with the trimmed edges facing in one direction
and then stitching together the superposed edges
of the sections of fabric by a single passage
through a combined edge trimming and zig-zag
sewing machine and form a uniformly symmetri
35 cal and superior non~rippable elastic seam. This
application is a division of my prior copending
application Serial No. 759,449, ?led Dec. 28, 1934.
With the above and other objects in view, the
. invention will be hereinafter more particularly
{0 described and the successive steps required to
carry out my method will be more fully disclosed.
The drawings show by way of illustration an
embodiment of the seam and the steps of the
method of making it substantially flat on the
;5 normally exposed surface.
Figure 1 is a perspective view showing the man
ner of placing, upturning, pinking, downfolding
and uniting by zig-‘zag topstitching two fabric
sections in successive steps and the step of blow
;0 ing away the pinked clippings.
Figure ‘2 is a sectional view taken as on line
2—2 in Figure 1.
Figure 3 is a sectional view taken as, on line
3-3 in Figure 1.
Figure 4 is a sectional view taken as on line
4—4 in Figure 1.
Figure 5 is a sectional view of a modi?ed pinked
and zig-zag topstitched elastic seam, wherein all
the stitch lines pass through three layers of fabric
and wherein the stitched portion of the folded
edge is ?attened by the transverse stitches and
lies substantially flat on the normally exposed
surface of the garment.
Figure 6 is a plan view of a folder that may be
used for producing the seam shown in Figure 1.
Figure 7 is a side view of the folder shown in
Figure 6 set in the baseQ-plate of the sewing ma
Figure 8 is a sectional view of the folder shown
in Figures 6 and 7, the section being taken as on
line 8-8 in Figure 6.
Figure 9 is a fragmentary sectional view or
the folder shown in Figures 6 to 8, inclusive, the
section being takenas on line 9-9 in Figure 7.
Figure 10 is a fragmentary portion of a com
bined seaming and pinking machine which I 10
presently consider the preferred embodiment of
mechanism for carrying out my method. The
sewing machine is of the zig-zag type and is well
known in the art as a Singer 107W. A front ele
vation of my improved pinking mechanism is
shown applied thereto. This ?gure also shows a
sectional view of a clutch which is part of the
means for intermittently rotating the pinking
wheel in synchronism with the feeding mecha
nism of the sewing machine. This view also 20
shows an air line.
Figure 11 is a plan view of the pinking unit and
shows the arm for‘ intermittently actuating the
pinking wheel.
Referring more in detail to the drawings, the 25
method is carried out as follows: Two fabric sec
tions l0 and II are positioned ?at and in juxta
posed relation with the normally exposed surfaces
lying on the base-plate l2 of a combined pinking
and zig-zag sewing machine.‘ The sections Ill 30
and II, have their edges l3 and I4 upturned to
?t into guideways l5 and I6 of a folder l1. The
upturned edges l3 and M are presented to a
pinking mechanism I8. The pinking mechanism
l8 preferably comprises a rotary cutter l9 having 35
a zig-zag cutting surface and is resiliently pressed
in any suitable manner against the outer surface
of a rotatably mounted ball bearingor disk 20.
The pinking mechanism I8 grips the upturned
edge portions l3 and M of the fabric sections l0 40
and II. The upturned edge portions are simul
taneously pinked during the movement through
the pinking mechanism and are then folded down
with the pinked edges in superposed relation and
facing in one direction by a hemming section'22 45
of the folder I1 and united by topstitching 23.
The stitching is preferably of the zig-zag type,
the fabric being pierced successively in two dif
ferent and slightly spaced longitudinal lines, the
threads of the stitches extending from one line 50
to the other at uniform angles which permits the
seam to yield when the fabric sections are
stretched, without any danger of tearing the
thread. As shown in Figure 1 and Figure 4,
it will be noted that some of the stitches it pass 55
I 2,052,516
through both sections of fabric [8 and II and
other of the stitches 25 pass through but one
of the sections I0.
The seam as illustrated in Figure 4, shows the
edge portion M of the fabric section II folded
?at and with the edge portion I3 of the fabric
section I0 lying in superposed relation on the said
fold. This fold forms a reinforcement. The
stitching 24 goes‘through a plurality of layers
10 of fabric and reinforces the seam because any
tendency to pull the seam apart causes the strain
to act in the direction of the folded edge instead
-of- against the selvage edges. The edge-folded
overedge zig-zag stitched seam shown in Figure
15 4 is stronger than an ordinary pinked seam
away from the rib 28 forming longitudinal open
ings 33 to permit the fabric sections In and II
(Figure 1) to enter between said plates and the
base-plate l2 and to turn upwards, the turned
edges l3 and II‘ on emerging from the guideways
l5 and i6 being then constrained to follow the
rib 28 on respective sides thereof till the point oi
'exit 30 from the 'hemming section 22 of the
folder l1, when the pinked edges are curved at
the tongue 34 and then ?attened in superposed
relation in the horizontal slot-like passage 35
adjacent the needle 2|.
Figure 7 shows the guide rib 26 pivotally mount
ed on a pivot 36 in the guideway member 21 which
is integral with the folder base-plate 29. The
wherein the sections of fabric are stitched while , guideway member 21 has a slot 31 serving to
slidably support the integrally connected rib 26,
lying face to face.
It is obvious that'the seam shown in Figure 4 and the horizontal plates 3| and 32 in pivotal re
may be made without any pinking or edge-trim- v lation with the folder base-plate 29. These piv
ming and that the seam will then'be edge-folded, otally mounted fabric folding members may thus
jointly swing up and down about the pivot 36. A
overedge zig-zag topstitched, elastic and sub
stantially ?at on the normally exposed surface. spring 38 mounted in the central guideway- mem
This is accomplished by removing or placing the ber 21 reacts against the front end of the rib 26
and normally raises the said end and causes the
trimming mechanism out of operating position.
facing the needle 2| to press down. The
'25.. When two layers of fabric are pinked and end
stitched with the fabric sections lying flat and horizontal plates- 3| and 32 are designed to ex
face to face, the stitches are visible only on the tend to and rest on the feed-dog of the combined
left sides of the fabric sections, that is on the seaming and pinking machine shown in Figure
normally concealed surfaces of the garment. 10. During the up and down motion of the feed
30 However, when two layers of fabric are pinked dog, the plates 3| and 32 w?l move up and down
concomitantly with the feed-dog. The joint up
and stitched with one folded layer and one super
posed layer. as shownin Figure 4, the stitches are and down motion of the plates 3| and 32 and
visible on the left or normally concealed side as the four-motion feed-dog mechanism acting
well as on the right or normally exposed side against any fabric passing between them to the
35 of the fabric sections and such a stitch is termed needle constitutes work feeding means.
It is to be noted that the central guide rib 26
by the art a topstitch.
of the folder I1 is positioned intermediate the
.When the edge-folded‘ overedge zig-zag top
stitched seam shown in Figure 4 is made by two trimming members l9 and 20 so as to direct the
upfolded edges of the fabric sections in a pre
sewingoperations, i. e., first a combined seam
ing and pinking operation and then a separate determined path intermediate said members. As
, topstitch operation, it is practically impossible shown in Figure 9, the central guide member 21
to produce uniformly parallel lines of stitching vhas curved sides 4| so as to facilitate the upfold
ing of the fabric sections on the folder base
and uniformly parallel lines of pinking and stitch
ing. My method of operating in successive steps plate 29.
with the edge folding, edge trimming, and zig-zag
It is tobe noted that the two sections of fabric
topstitching performed concomitantly, makes it 10 and I i are positioned onjthe base-plate l2 of
possible not only to produce the seem in one the sewing machine with the normally exposed
operation, but in addition provides parallel and surfaces, of the'fabric'sections in direct contact
uniform lines of pinking and stitching and a with said base-plate.
It is also to be noted that when the seam
'50 seam which is elastic, non-rippable, and substan
herein described is incorporated in shadowproof
tially, flat on its normally exposed surface.
The seam shown in ‘Figure 5 is similar to the or panel garments, that there will be a plurality
overedge zig-zag topstitched edge-folded seam‘ of superposed sections of fabric on each side of
shown in Figure 4. v The seam shown in Figure 5
55. has a substantial portion of the folded surface'
?attened by transverse stitches and is also elas
tic, non-rippable and substantially flat on the
normally exposed surface.
As best shown in Figures 6 to 9 inclusive, an
60 embodiment of means for upturning and down
folding the fabric sections ill and H may com
prise the folder H which is provided with a
central rib 26 secured to the guideway member
21 intermediate the guideways l5 and I6. A
guide rib 28 fixed to the base-plate 29 of the
folder |1 terminates in a line with the point of
exit 30 of the hemming section 22 and as close
,to the needle 2| as possible. The ribs: 26 and 28
are in alinement. The rib 28 extends substan
the seam.
I may position the pinking mechanism l8 sub
stantially in line with the needle so as to perform -
the pinking . and stitching operations simulta
neously and in adjacent relation.
In order to remove the pinked clippings from
the line of stitching and away from the pinking
mechanism, I provide an air compressor or blower
(not shown) and terminating in an air line 40
preferably positioned closeto the exit end of the
pinking mechanism i8. A jet of air is thus direct
ed crosswise to the line of pinking to blow the
pinked clippings out of the way of the line of
In operation the edges‘of the fabric sections
‘are ?rst turned up and pinked, the pinked edges
tially down to the base-plate l2 of the sewing
machine. The folder i1 also comprises two _ are then downfolded in superposed relation on
one of the sections of fabric and sewed together
plates 3| and 32 fastened to the guideway mem
ber 21 and positioned in a horizontal plane to form a pinked and zig-zag top-stitched seam.
parallel with and in spaced relation from the This makes an ornamented and reinforced ‘elas
75 base-plate I2. The plates 3| and 32 are spaced tic seam which can be very readily made by the 1
combined pinking and zig-zag sewing machine
in one continuous operation.
It is to be noted that by the term “flat, edge
folded, seam” is meant a seam which has no hol
low formation at the folded edge and wherein
the folded layers are drawn together taut by the
stitches which go through and across the line of
seam formation, as best shown in Figure 4.
An elastic seam of the nature herein described
10 is very desirable for making ladies’ silk under
wear and similar articles of ?ne texture where
As shown in Figures 10 and 11, a vibrating con—
nection 59 has been secured to the oscillatable
arm 88 by a ball joint 10. The other end of the
connection 69 has an eccentric strap 'II (Figure
10) which is designed to engage an eccentric 12
mounted on the needle-vibrator shaft ‘I3. The.
needle-vibrator shaft 13 is geared to operate once
for every two stitches and the connection 69
causes the oscillatable arm 68 to intermittently
actuate the clutch 66 (Figure 11) and the rotary
trimmer I9 in timed relation once for every two
stitches of the sewing machine.
As shown in Figure 10, there has been provided
a friction clutch 15 having clutching members
are employed for such garments.
My pinking mechanism l8 comprises a bracket similar to that of the actuating clutch 66 but
44 preferably fastened to the lower portion of i interposed between the actuating clutch and the
the head 45 of the sewing machine 42. The rotary cutter. The clutch 15 serves to grip the
bracket 44 has an arm 46 carrying a pin 41 at shaft 49 the moment it is released by the clutch
the lower end of which has been mounted the 66 and prevents retrograde movement of the
roller or ball bearing 20. An arm 48 has been cutter I9.
As shown in Figure 10, the pinking mechanism
mounted on a pivot 43 and has a vertical shaft
49 at the lower end of which has been mounted I8 is secured to the head 45 of a Singer 107W
the rotary cutter l9. The members l9 and 20 are zig-zag sewing machine in such a manner as to
cause the rotary members l9 and 20 to be respec
preferably of the same diameter and are posi
tioned so that the point of intersection of their tively positioned on each side of the needle 2|.
circumferences is in line with the center of the The pinking mechanism I8 is thus transverse to
loop taker shaft 50, of the zig-zag sewing machine the line of stitchingof the sewing machine. As
with which my pinking attachment is presently shown in Figures 1 and 10, the pinking members
l9 and 20 are positioned in advance of the needle
shown combined, as best shown in Figure 10.
The horizontally swinging arm 48 may be swung 2| and entirely above the work supporting base 30
to the left so that the rotary cutter l9 contacts in 12. The rotary pinking members are mounted
operative relation with the rotary member 20. to rotate in a horizontal plane in spaced relation
above the base and with their shafts in a plane
The rotary cutter is adapted to be swung hori
zontally to the right away from the needle so mounted in angular relation with the sewing ma
as to permit the threading of the needle. For the chine base.
It is to be noted that the method disclosed
purpose of swinging the arm 48 I have provided
herein di?ers from the disclosure in my patent
a toggle joint 5| having one of its links 52 piv
oted to the arm 48 and the other toggle link 53 application Serial No. 747,824, ?led October 11,
pivotally connected to the pressure arm 54 1934, in that an additional step is herewith dis
mounted on a pin 55 in the bracket 44. A lever closed, that of blowing the pinked clippings away 40
56 has been secured to a rotatable pin 51. At from the line of stitching.
the lower end of the pin 51 has been secured a
I claim:
l. The method of forming a ?at, ornamented
crank arm 58 which is pivotally secured to a tog
gle operating link 59. The link 59 is pivotally and non-ravelling elastic seam for sewed articles,
which comprises turning up the edges of two ?at 45
connected to the links 52 and 53. It is thus possi
ble to swing the lever 56 and the crank arm 58 sections of fabric into adjoining relation, in pink
and the toggle operating link 59 so as to align ing both upturned edges simultaneously, in blow
ing the pinked clippings away from the line of
the two toggle links .52 and 53 and cause a pres
sure between the rotary cutter l9 and the ball stitching, in downfolding the pinked edge of one
it is necessary to reinforce the seam to secure
‘ additional strength because very delicate fabrics
50 bearing 20.
It is to be noted that the horizontally swinging
arm 48 permits swinging of one of the pinking
members away from the needle 2| and out of ten
sioned operative engagement and that the roller
55 20 may be the swinging member.
An open coil compression spring 60 faces the
free. end of the pressure arm 54 and serves to
press against said arm. This resilient pressure
is transmitted by the toggle joint 5| to the rotary
,60 cutter l9 and forces the cutter against the ball
bearing 20 into tensioned cutting relation.
An annular casing 6| has been secured at the
upper end of the shaft 49. The casing 6| has a
~chamber 62 serving to house a detent carrier 63,
65 detent rollers 84 and springs 65 which jointly
form a friction clutch 88. The rollers press
against cam surfaces in the detent carrier 63. An
oscillatable arm 68 has been fastened to the de
tent carrier 63 and which when turned clockwise
70 causes rotation of the rotary cutter l9.
of said \sections, in ?attening the pinked edge of 50
the other section over said folded edge and caus
ing said pinked edges to lay ?at in superposed
relation and then stitching said edges together
by a single line of zig-zag stitching passing
through both sections of said fabric.
2. The method of forming a trimmed and non—
ravelling seam substantially flat on its normally
exposed surface, which comprises turning up the
edges of two ?at sections of fabric into adjoining
relation, in trimming both upturned edges, in 60
blowing the trimmed clippings away from the
line of stitching, in downfolding the trimmed edge ,
of one of the sections, in ?attening the trimmed
edge of the other section over said folded edge
and causing said trimmed edges to lay ?at in 65
superposed relation and then stitching said edges
together by a single line of zig-zag stitching pass
ing through both sections of said fabric.
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