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Патент USA US2297027

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Sept. 29, 1942 `
F. s'B‘lccA
Filed June 10, 1941
y Fra/'Mr zóó/'cca
I Fiyi.
A410?, .
Patented Sept. 29, >1942
Frank sbicca, Philadelphia-ra. ,
Application June 10, 194'1‘, `:Serial-No. 397,373
1 Claim. (c1. 3cr-_5u
defining the> upper opening will accurately com
My Ainvention relates to shoesA and relates par-.
plement the VWearer’s instep. "
ticularly to' pumps worn --loy women'.
Another object 'of' my "invention is' to elimi
In my prior Patent No. 2,228,065, granted J anu
nate 'leather A’linings'infsho’es' since leather is
ary '7, 1941, I disclose' a pump'having an lelastic
throat; however,- the lcostN of `manufacturing 5 costly’ and non-uniform'in weightV and quality.
Another- object'of;‘myinventionis -to use a
pumps' of theV type described is‘ ‘expensive’ as
fabricA `lining which 'ist `always‘uniform _in t thick
compared to .the present invention, because nu
ness and weight?
merous steps in the method of manufacture of
Other objects of my 'invention’are to'provide
the former invention are eliminated in my pres
an improved device of the character described,
ent invention as I eliminate costly leather lin
that is easily and economically produced, which
ings, and I utilize a smaller number of shoe
is sturdy in construction and which is greatly
elements; hence, I reduce the cost of manufac
comfortable when in use.
ture. I, also, utilize in my present invention
With the above and related objects in view,
a less number of patterns which are needed in
my invention consists in the following details
the manufacture of shoes because I have reduced
of construction and combination of parts, as
the number of shoe elements used.
Shoe uppers primarily are made of outside
will be more fully understood from the follow
ing description, when read in conjunction with
layers and inside linings. The outside layer is
the accompanying drawing, in which:
usually grosgrain bound, and the binding is
turned. The lining employed is of kid leather 20 Fig. 1 is a perspective View of a shoe embody
ing my invention.
back-lining and fabric vamp lining, which is
Fig. 2 is an exploded view of the shoe upper,
usually lap seamed. After the outside layer is
the inner lining, and the unitary binding.
bound, the completely kid-trimmed lining is fitted
Fig. 3 is a sectional view more clearly show
in and stitched together with the outside layer
on a machine, commonly called a “top-stitching 25 ing the assembly of the lining, the upper, and
the elastic or non-elastic binding with one row
machine.” In the aforementioned operation,
of stitches at the foot opening.
part of the kid back-lining extends over the
Fig. 4 is a sectional View taken on the line
edge of the outside upper. This extra leather
4_4 of Fig. 1.
is used as a lasting margin in some pumps, and
Referring now in detailrto the drawing, I show
if not used as a lasting margin, it must be
trimmed 01T on a trimming machine.
in Fig. l a woman’s shoe or pump having an
When the lining is trimmed, the edge shows
prominently at the top of the shoe, which gives
outer soles III, a high heel I2, a leather or fabric
upper, generally designated as A, and a lining,
generally designated as B.
a heavy appearance.
The shoe upper A is constructed so that a
It is, therefore, an object of my invention to 35
foot opening I4 is defined therein, and it may
construct a lining wherein the heavy top lines
are eliminated.
It is another object of my invention to manu
facture a pump upper wherein the number of
operations in manufacture are reduced.
It is another object of my invention to pro
vide in a shoe upper a smooth lining, elimina
be of one or more pieces of either leather or of
The lining B comprises a faille or lastex 1in
ing I6 combined with an anti-slip velvet back
ing lining I8. The lining portions I6 and I8 are
joined together by abutting the portions to
gether and sewing them with a Zig-zag row of
stitches 20 in order to eliminate heavy seams,
assembling the outside upper with the lining.
Another object of my invention is to provide 45 see Fig. 2. The top of the lining and upper may
be skived to reduce the thickness.
a shoe having a better fitting of the foot than
The lining B inserted into the outside layer
those shoes of the prior art.
and the binding may be pasted together, but the
Another object of my invention is to provide
usual practice is to sew the elements aforemen
a shoe of extreme light weight and of great
50 tioned together.
A binding; generally designated as C, of elas
Another object of my invention is to prevent
tic or non-elastic material, is placed against the
wrinkles and bulges of shoe lining and to con
trol the stretch of woman’s shoes.
upper outside portion of the upper A so that
It is another object of my invention to con
the uppermost edges or margins of the binding
struct a shoe so that the top marginal edge
`C, the upper A, and the lining B are parallel or
tion of heavy top lines, and simplification of
By covering the binding C over the lining B,
I eliminate the edge of the lining from showing
and, therefore, make a thinner appearing top
line. The thinner appearing top line also im
even with one another, and a single row of
stitching 24 holds the upper A, the lining B and
the binding C together. The binding C is turned
to form a French binding and to cover the top
proves the ñt of the shoe upon the foot because
the shoe lays tightly against the wood last dur
edges of the lining B and the upper A.
A braid 26,` either of elastic or non-elastic
material, see Fig. 4, is placed to cover the inside
edge 25, and a double roW of zig-zag or straight
ing the lasting operation.
Although my invention has been described in
considerable detail, such description is intended
stitching 28 and 3Q holds the braid 26 in place.
An elastic braid improves the fit of the shoe, 10 as illustrative rather than limiting, since the
and a non-elastic braid controls -the “stretch”
or “give” of the elastic binding. On a wide .
opening shoe, I prefer to use a “lastex” binding '
With a non-elastic braid.
. The rovv of stitching 28 pierces the braidZS,
the binding C, the lining B, and the upper A;'
and the row of stitching 30 pierces the braid
26, the lining B and the upper A.
The braid 26 Y
makes a clean, inside ñnish, improves theÍ fit,
and controls-the “give” of the elastic binding.
The binding C and the braid or tape 26 eX
invention may be variously embodied, and the
scope of the invention is to be determined as
I claim as my invention:
A shoe construction comprising an upper. a
lining for said upper, said upper and lining hav
ing free edges which are iiush and contiguous,
a ’binding stitched to said upper with an edge
flush with the edges of said upper and lining,
said binding being turned over all of said edges
to provide a flap contiguous with said lining, a
braid bridging the edge of said flap, and stitch
tends completely around the upper margin of
ing penetrating said braid, iiap, lining and upper
the shoe, which defines the opening for the foot.
above the edge of said ñap, and said braid, lin'
The back velvet lining prevents slippage at
the heel, which is a common fault in most shoes, 25 ing and upper below the edge of said flap.
and the vamp lining of faille or lastex provides
for a light weight shoe, which is a prime requis
ite of Women’s footwear.
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