Патент USA US2384216

Sept. 4, 1945.
S. TOULOUMIS
2,384,216
METHOD OF FAGING SLEEVES
Filed Sept. 2o, 1945
2'Sheets-Sheet 2
Patented Sept. 4, 1945
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UNITED STATES
PATENT " OFFICE ^
SimonTouloumis, 'wl‘roy,ìN. Y., assìgnor to Cluet't,
Peabody &'Co.,. Inc., Troy, N. Y.,v a corporation
of'New York`
Application September 20, 1943, Serial No. 503,081
4 Claims.
(Cl. 2‘---121)
terial prepared in the form of a roll forense in
This invention relates to the manufacture of
the practice of the present invention; ~
garments, for example, shirts; ri'dingïv breeches,
Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 3 but showing
the narrow or inner facing strip-applied to; one-
dresses, etc., and more particularly to ai novel
method of facing` slit openings in suohl- garments,
such, for instan-ce, as in thesleeve ofwa shirt,
the lower portion of the leg of riding breeches;
or the'neck opening in the back.< of a dress‘.
It is customary, for example, tofsli't’ the sleeve
of a shirt upwardly fromthe wrist to facilitate
turning back the cuff, and:` theîraw edges of th'eî
sleeve material resulting fromV such slittìngtare:
commonly faced with material similar to that
of the sleeve proper. Ordinarily one facing is
wider than the other,` the wider facing overlap
ping the narrower facing when the: cuff is
buttoned.
U
margin of the slit in the> sleeve material ;' `
Fig. 6' is a diagrammatic section on the lineî
8-6
of Fig.
5;
l
'
y
»
y
`
Fig. 'l is a view similar to Fig. 5 but showing'
the opposite side of the'sleeve materialV with
the wider' or outer facing strip attached t‘o'th'e
opposite margin of thelslit in the sleeve material;Fig. 8 is a diagrammatic section on the line
il---Sl of Fig. '7;
'
Fig». 9 is a View from the' opposite side' of the
sleeve facing from that shown in Fig.v 7;
n
Fig. l0 is a view similar'to Fig. 9` but show’->
,
In accordance with a practice customarily
followed in making finer gradesl of shirts, the
Äsleeve facings are madefrom strips of'fa-bric' out
to proper length andy width and the operatorV
stitches the facing material to` the shirt mate'
rial, then folds the facing material about the
raw edge of Ithe shirt material and` again'` stitches
the facing material to the shirt material. Twov
separate sewing operationsl with an interven
ing folding operation are thus necessary,v and
since lthe folding isr done by hand, there isf no
certainty that the attachedi facing will .be of uni
form Width from end to end, or that-«the facings
of diñerent shirts will be of the samey width.
The principal object of the present invention`
is to provide a novel method> of facing slit open-
ings in garments, for example shirts‘sl‘eeves, suchl
ing a further step in the operation; and>
Fig. 11 is a view similar to Fig. rI 'indicating
the completion of the operation.
Referring to the drawings `(Fig. 1), thel nu-A
20
meral I designates a sleeve having a cuff 2‘.- The`
sleeve1 has the outer Vfacing member' 3 extending~
inwardly from the cuff, andthe button* B‘ for'
closing the- cuff. Referring to Fig. 3, -which
shows
a portion of the sleeve' materiali‘b'efore'
25
it is seamed together, the Vnumeral» 5'1 indicates:
a slitextending from the cuff end of .the sleeve
inwardly longitudinally of the sleeve.
Ther slit
has the margins 6 and 'I and at its inner e'nd‘ is'
bifurcated to define altriangula'r tong-ue 8 hav"-A
ing thel apex 49 anda base: defined' by arr imagi
nary line connecting the points-` I0 andv Ha
In accordance with. the present invention', the-l
facing- material is preferablyA provided in long:
as to insure substantial uniformity throughout
strips» of uniform width which are preferably
the Width of any individual facingl,.asv welll asiv 35 wound to formrollsiS", as rshown in Fig. 4. Strips»
uniformity of width of facings of different gar#
I2 and I2X (Fig. y8) of different widths are‘-pro--r
ments. This and other objects andY advantages
vided, strip I2 being a narrow or inner facing
of the invention will be pointed out in' thefollow
and the strip I2X being the wider or outer facing.
ing more detailed' description withnspeciñc ap'-‘
-. strip. While it is preferred to provide this m‘a-f'
plication of the invention to a; shirt sleeve by" 40 terial in long lengths and*v to roll it for conven-~-»
way of illustrative example but withoutlimita
ience in applying it, it is within the scopeof thevv
ltion to shirts, and by reference' tothe' accom
invention to provide the facing material in
panying drawings wherein
>
Fig. 1 is a fragmentary view“ of the sleeve of
a shirt or similar garment provided' with' facings
lengths each just sufficient toY form one facing.
Each facing strip kis of a width enough greater
than twice the width of the -com-pletedafacing.>
in accordance with the present invention;
Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig'vlß-but‘ with the
cuff unbuttoned to show the innerl facing strip;
to provide for inturned hems at its edges.
In applying the facing. strip I2 (Figs. 5V andö) ,«
it is ñrst doubled substantially along its center
Fig. 3v is a fragmentary view ofthe inner' surI3v to provide two plies I4 and I5>of equal widtlr;
face of the material usedY in making th'e sleeve;v 50A and the edges I6 and I1 of these'pliesare turned
showing a slit extending lengthwise of the“ sleevev
inwardly to provide a hem finish. One- margin,`
from its cuff end and whoseA opposite edges' arey
for examplel the margin 1,. ofv the »shirtsleeve'
designed to receive `the` respective facing: ele»
material', is introduced' `(Fig. 6) between-¿therm
ments.;`
-'
Fig.l «Lisa perspective view showing facing-finas
turned edges of these two plies of thewfacing.
A sewed seam I8 is then formed, the stitches
2,384,216
passing through the inturned edges and the mar
1. That method of facing the edges of a slit
shirt sleeve having a slit extending inwardly from
its wrist end, the inner end'of the slit being de
gin of the shirt material. This seam extends
the entire length of the slit 5, that is to say,
as far as the point I0. Beyond this point the
seam may be continued but without passing
ñned by a triangular tongue, which comprises as .
steps providing lengths ofv4 facing material,
through the sleeve material, Vthus merely uniting
the inturned edges I6 and I1 of the facing strip,
doubling each strip and turning in its edges, then
inserting the opposite margins of the sleeve mate
rial _between the doubled-in edges ofthe respec
the facing strip extending in the form of a tab
(as shown at I9 in Fig. 5) a short distance be
tive strips and sewing said edges and margins to
. yond the base Ill-II of the triangle 8, for ex 10 gether, each strip being extended beyond the base
ample, a distance approximating the Width of
of said triangular tongue a short distance to form
the folded strip.
The other strip I2X (Fig. 8) Yis likewise lfolded l
along its center line to form the fold 20 and plies ‘ï
2I and 22, and the edges of these plies are turned ‘
in at 23 and 24 to form a hem finish.V The oppo-'
site margin 6 of the sleeve material is introduced
spective folded strip, folding the triangular tongue
«back across the outer surface of the sleeve mate
rial, lapping one of the tabs over the folded
tongue, lapping the other tab over the first tab,
and forming a transverse seam substantially at
‘ between the inturned edges 23 and 24 of the widerr
’ the base _of the tongue.
strip and is connected to the'latter by a seam 25
which extends lengthwise of the slit 5 to the point '
’free tabs each approximating the width of the re
i20
2. That method of facing the edge of a slit shirt
sleeve having a slit extending inwardly from its
Wrist end, the inner end of the slit being defined
by a triangular tongue, which comprises as steps
II», beyond which the seam merely connects the
inturned edges 23 and 24 without passing through
the shirt material. 'I‘he wider strip lZX thus ex
providing two lengths of facing material, doubling
tends in the form of a tabT beyond the base
and turning in the edges of each strip, intro
Ill-II of the tongue 8 to the point I9X (Fig. 7), 25 ducing one margin of the shirt material between
the length of thistab T between the point I9X and
the vturned-in edges of each of the respective
the base of the tongue being approximately 11/2
strips and sewing said margins to the turned-in
times the width of the folded strip.
edges of the respective strips while causing the
In carrying out the above described folding,
ends- of the strips to extend, unconnected to said
i hemming sewing operations, it is convenientrto 30 margins, beyond the base of the tongue a dis
perform these operations progressively bypass
tance approximating the width of the respective
YingYthe strip material and the sleeve material
folded strips to form free tabs, folding back the
through a suitable scroll type hemmer in a sew
triangular tongue against the outer surface of
ing machine, the work thus being doubled and
the sleeve’material, disposing the tab of the first
hemmed and stitched together in a single oper 35 applied strip over rthe folded tongue, disposing
‘ ation.
Since the facing material is of uniform
the tab of the other strip over the ñrst tab, turn
ing in. the corners. of the projecting end portion
of thelast-m'entioned tab, andY forming a seam
width and is doubled before or during application,
and sinceY the edges which are thus turned in are
of substantially equal width, the completed facing
bordering said last-mentioned tab,'and uniting it
3 is of uniform width from end to end; likewise the 40 and the tongue to the sleeve material, said seam
facings of successively made shirts are of the
extending transversely across both tabs at a point
same uniform'width, thus providing a great irn
zbeyond the end of the slit.
[provement as compared with previous methods
v3. 'I'hat method of facing the edges of a slit
which have resulted in a great variation in the
garment part having a slit whose inner end is de
width of individualfacings and in the widthsv
lined by a triangular tongue, said method com
of the facings of different shirts.
Y prising as steps providing lengths of ribbon-like
. Having secured the two facings as» described,
facing material in Ltwo different widths, each`
the triangular tongue V8 is folded back along itsA
length beingy sufficient to form a sleeve facing,
base line to lie against the outer surface of the
doubling the narrower strip and turning in its
i sleeve material, the narrow tab I9 is laid over the 50 edges, introducing one margin of they garment
folded back tongue 8, and the wider tab T is laid
material between the turned in edges of said nar
‘ over the tab I9 so as to conceal the latter.' The
rowerffacing strip and securing the margin and
corners 21 and 28 ofthe tab T are now turned in,
said turned in .edges by a single sewed seam, the
as shown in Fig. 1l, and a seam 29 is Vformed
seam being continued beyond the end of the slit
l so-as to border the parallel edges of this portion 55 opening in such a way as to unite the turned in
of the strip and to extend along the diagonal
' edgesof the facing without passing through the
lines formed by turning in the corners 21 and 28.
sleeve material, thereby forming a tab ofïa length
This seam is continued as shown at 3B so _astro
substantially equalling thewidth of the folded
‘ extend transverselyracross the strip the’stitches
facing, doubling the wider strip and «turning in
extending through the- material of both tabs, coI its edges, introducing the other margin of the
through the tongue and through the sleeve mate-A
garment material between the turned in edges
rial, thus securing the tongue in itsv folded-in
of the latterstrip, securing said latter margin
position. This procedure provides a much better
and turned in edges ‘by a single sewed seam which
and more ñnished appearance at the inside 'of
is extended beyond the ,end of the slit opening in
the ‘sleeve than results from usual prior practice,
such a way as to unite the turned in edges of the
and furnishes a strong terminal construction for
facing without passing through .the sleeve mate
i. the inner end of the slit such as effectively to pre
rial, thereby forming a tab of a length which is
vent ripping or tearing at this point.
substantially one and one-halftimes the Width
While one desirable embodiment ofthe inven
of the folded facing, folding the triangular tongue
tion has been illustrated and described by way 70 ¿ back along its base line so that it contacts the
of example, it is to be understoodfthat the inven-v
outer surface of the' garment part, laying the tab
tion is broadly inclusive of any and all m'odiñca- '
tionsl and substitutionsof equivalent steps fallingv
Within the scope of the appended claims.
were
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i
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of _the-.narrower facing over the folded tongue,
laymg;V the tabl of.V the _Wider facing .over the .tab
of the narrower facing so as to conceal thevlat»
.
’IQ
ter, forming a sewed seam extending transversely
2,384,216
across the wider tab at a. point beyond the end
of the slit, the stitches of said seam passing
through both tabs, the tongue and the garment
part, turning in the corners of the tab of the
wider strip, and uniting said tab to the sleeve
material by a seam which borders the parallel
edges of the wider tab and extends along the
diagonal lines resultant from turning in the cor
3
material thereby forming a free two-ply tab of
the facing material beyond the end of the slit,
similarly doubling the wider strip, turning in its
edges, introducing the other margin of the gar
ment part between said turned-in edges of the
wider strip, and uniting the latter margin and the
edges of the strip by a sewed seam which is con
tinued beyond the end of the slit in such a way
ners of the tab.
as to unite the edges of the wider facing strip
4. That method of facing the edges of a slit
in a garment part which comprises as steps pro
viding two strips of facing material each of sub
stantially uniform Width, but one wider than theother, each strip being of a length somewhat
greater than the length of the slit, doubling the
narrower strip, turning in its longitudinal edges,
introducing one margin of the garment part be
tween the turned-in .edges of the facing strip and
uniting the margin and said turned-in edges by a
without passing through the garment part, there
by providing a free two-ply tab of the wider strip
beyond the end of the slit, laying the narrower
tab down against the outer surface of the gar
ment part beyond the end of the slit, laying the
wider tab down over the narrower tab so as to
conceal the latter, forming a sewed seam extend
ing transversely across both tabs and through the
garment part at a point beyond the end of the slit,
and uniting the free margins of the wider tab
sewed seam which is continued beyond the end 20 to the garment part by sewing stitches.
of the slit in such a way as to unite the edges
of the facing without passing through the garment
SIMON TOULOUMIS.