Патент USA US2384216код для вставки
Sept. 4, 1945. S. TOULOUMIS 2,384,216 METHOD OF FAGING SLEEVES Filed Sept. 2o, 1945 2'Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Sept. 4, 1945 ' UNITED STATES PATENT " OFFICE ^ SimonTouloumis, 'wl‘roy,ìN. Y., assìgnor to Cluet't, Peabody &'Co.,. Inc., Troy, N. Y.,v a corporation of'New York` Application September 20, 1943, Serial No. 503,081 4 Claims. (Cl. 2‘---121) terial prepared in the form of a roll forense in This invention relates to the manufacture of the practice of the present invention; ~ garments, for example, shirts; ri'dingïv breeches, Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 3 but showing the narrow or inner facing strip-applied to; one- dresses, etc., and more particularly to ai novel method of facing` slit openings in suohl- garments, such, for instan-ce, as in thesleeve ofwa shirt, the lower portion of the leg of riding breeches; or the'neck opening in the back.< of a dress‘. It is customary, for example, tofsli't’ the sleeve of a shirt upwardly fromthe wrist to facilitate turning back the cuff, and:` theîraw edges of th'eî sleeve material resulting fromV such slittìngtare: commonly faced with material similar to that of the sleeve proper. Ordinarily one facing is wider than the other,` the wider facing overlap ping the narrower facing when the: cuff is buttoned. U margin of the slit in the> sleeve material ;' ` Fig. 6' is a diagrammatic section on the lineî 8-6 of Fig. 5; l ' y » y ` Fig. 'l is a view similar to Fig. 5 but showing' the opposite side of the'sleeve materialV with the wider' or outer facing strip attached t‘o'th'e opposite margin of thelslit in the sleeve material;Fig. 8 is a diagrammatic section on the line il---Sl of Fig. '7; ' Fig». 9 is a View from the' opposite side' of the sleeve facing from that shown in Fig.v 7; n Fig. l0 is a view similar'to Fig. 9` but show’-> , In accordance with a practice customarily followed in making finer gradesl of shirts, the Äsleeve facings are madefrom strips of'fa-bric' out to proper length andy width and the operatorV stitches the facing material to` the shirt mate' rial, then folds the facing material about the raw edge of Ithe shirt material and` again'` stitches the facing material to the shirt material. Twov separate sewing operationsl with an interven ing folding operation are thus necessary,v and since lthe folding isr done by hand, there isf no certainty that the attachedi facing will .be of uni form Width from end to end, or that-«the facings of diñerent shirts will be of the samey width. The principal object of the present invention` is to provide a novel method> of facing slit open- ings in garments, for example shirts‘sl‘eeves, suchl ing a further step in the operation; and> Fig. 11 is a view similar to Fig. rI 'indicating the completion of the operation. Referring to the drawings `(Fig. 1), thel nu-A 20 meral I designates a sleeve having a cuff 2‘.- The` sleeve1 has the outer Vfacing member' 3 extending~ inwardly from the cuff, andthe button* B‘ for' closing the- cuff. Referring to Fig. 3, -which shows a portion of the sleeve' materiali‘b'efore' 25 it is seamed together, the Vnumeral» 5'1 indicates: a slitextending from the cuff end of .the sleeve inwardly longitudinally of the sleeve. Ther slit has the margins 6 and 'I and at its inner e'nd‘ is' bifurcated to define altriangula'r tong-ue 8 hav"-A ing thel apex 49 anda base: defined' by arr imagi nary line connecting the points-` I0 andv Ha In accordance with. the present invention', the-l facing- material is preferablyA provided in long: as to insure substantial uniformity throughout strips» of uniform width which are preferably the Width of any individual facingl,.asv welll asiv 35 wound to formrollsiS", as rshown in Fig. 4. Strips» uniformity of width of facings of different gar# I2 and I2X (Fig. y8) of different widths are‘-pro--r ments. This and other objects andY advantages vided, strip I2 being a narrow or inner facing of the invention will be pointed out in' thefollow and the strip I2X being the wider or outer facing. ing more detailed' description withnspeciñc ap'-‘ -. strip. While it is preferred to provide this m‘a-f' plication of the invention to a; shirt sleeve by" 40 terial in long lengths and*v to roll it for conven-~-» way of illustrative example but withoutlimita ience in applying it, it is within the scopeof thevv ltion to shirts, and by reference' tothe' accom invention to provide the facing material in panying drawings wherein > Fig. 1 is a fragmentary view“ of the sleeve of a shirt or similar garment provided' with' facings lengths each just sufficient toY form one facing. Each facing strip kis of a width enough greater than twice the width of the -com-pletedafacing.> in accordance with the present invention; Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig'vlß-but‘ with the cuff unbuttoned to show the innerl facing strip; to provide for inturned hems at its edges. In applying the facing. strip I2 (Figs. 5V andö) ,« it is ñrst doubled substantially along its center Fig. 3v is a fragmentary view ofthe inner' surI3v to provide two plies I4 and I5>of equal widtlr; face of the material usedY in making th'e sleeve;v 50A and the edges I6 and I1 of these'pliesare turned showing a slit extending lengthwise of the“ sleevev inwardly to provide a hem finish. One- margin,` from its cuff end and whoseA opposite edges' arey for examplel the margin 1,. ofv the »shirtsleeve' designed to receive `the` respective facing: ele» material', is introduced' `(Fig. 6) between-¿therm ments.;` -' Fig.l «Lisa perspective view showing facing-finas turned edges of these two plies of thewfacing. A sewed seam I8 is then formed, the stitches 2,384,216 passing through the inturned edges and the mar 1. That method of facing the edges of a slit shirt sleeve having a slit extending inwardly from its wrist end, the inner end'of the slit being de gin of the shirt material. This seam extends the entire length of the slit 5, that is to say, as far as the point I0. Beyond this point the seam may be continued but without passing ñned by a triangular tongue, which comprises as . steps providing lengths ofv4 facing material, through the sleeve material, Vthus merely uniting the inturned edges I6 and I1 of the facing strip, doubling each strip and turning in its edges, then inserting the opposite margins of the sleeve mate rial _between the doubled-in edges ofthe respec the facing strip extending in the form of a tab (as shown at I9 in Fig. 5) a short distance be tive strips and sewing said edges and margins to . yond the base Ill-II of the triangle 8, for ex 10 gether, each strip being extended beyond the base ample, a distance approximating the Width of of said triangular tongue a short distance to form the folded strip. The other strip I2X (Fig. 8) Yis likewise lfolded l along its center line to form the fold 20 and plies ‘ï 2I and 22, and the edges of these plies are turned ‘ in at 23 and 24 to form a hem finish.V The oppo-' site margin 6 of the sleeve material is introduced spective folded strip, folding the triangular tongue «back across the outer surface of the sleeve mate rial, lapping one of the tabs over the folded tongue, lapping the other tab over the first tab, and forming a transverse seam substantially at ‘ between the inturned edges 23 and 24 of the widerr ’ the base _of the tongue. strip and is connected to the'latter by a seam 25 which extends lengthwise of the slit 5 to the point ' ’free tabs each approximating the width of the re i20 2. That method of facing the edge of a slit shirt sleeve having a slit extending inwardly from its Wrist end, the inner end of the slit being defined by a triangular tongue, which comprises as steps II», beyond which the seam merely connects the inturned edges 23 and 24 without passing through the shirt material. 'I‘he wider strip lZX thus ex providing two lengths of facing material, doubling tends in the form of a tabT beyond the base and turning in the edges of each strip, intro Ill-II of the tongue 8 to the point I9X (Fig. 7), 25 ducing one margin of the shirt material between the length of thistab T between the point I9X and the vturned-in edges of each of the respective the base of the tongue being approximately 11/2 strips and sewing said margins to the turned-in times the width of the folded strip. edges of the respective strips while causing the In carrying out the above described folding, ends- of the strips to extend, unconnected to said i hemming sewing operations, it is convenientrto 30 margins, beyond the base of the tongue a dis perform these operations progressively bypass tance approximating the width of the respective YingYthe strip material and the sleeve material folded strips to form free tabs, folding back the through a suitable scroll type hemmer in a sew triangular tongue against the outer surface of ing machine, the work thus being doubled and the sleeve’material, disposing the tab of the first hemmed and stitched together in a single oper 35 applied strip over rthe folded tongue, disposing ‘ ation. Since the facing material is of uniform the tab of the other strip over the ñrst tab, turn ing in. the corners. of the projecting end portion of thelast-m'entioned tab, andY forming a seam width and is doubled before or during application, and sinceY the edges which are thus turned in are of substantially equal width, the completed facing bordering said last-mentioned tab,'and uniting it 3 is of uniform width from end to end; likewise the 40 and the tongue to the sleeve material, said seam facings of successively made shirts are of the extending transversely across both tabs at a point same uniform'width, thus providing a great irn zbeyond the end of the slit. [provement as compared with previous methods v3. 'I'hat method of facing the edges of a slit which have resulted in a great variation in the garment part having a slit whose inner end is de width of individualfacings and in the widthsv lined by a triangular tongue, said method com of the facings of different shirts. Y prising as steps providing lengths of ribbon-like . Having secured the two facings as» described, facing material in Ltwo different widths, each` the triangular tongue V8 is folded back along itsA length beingy sufficient to form a sleeve facing, base line to lie against the outer surface of the doubling the narrower strip and turning in its i sleeve material, the narrow tab I9 is laid over the 50 edges, introducing one margin of they garment folded back tongue 8, and the wider tab T is laid material between the turned in edges of said nar ‘ over the tab I9 so as to conceal the latter.' The rowerffacing strip and securing the margin and corners 21 and 28 ofthe tab T are now turned in, said turned in .edges by a single sewed seam, the as shown in Fig. 1l, and a seam 29 is Vformed seam being continued beyond the end of the slit l so-as to border the parallel edges of this portion 55 opening in such a way as to unite the turned in of the strip and to extend along the diagonal ' edgesof the facing without passing through the lines formed by turning in the corners 21 and 28. sleeve material, thereby forming a tab ofïa length This seam is continued as shown at 3B so _astro substantially equalling thewidth of the folded ‘ extend transverselyracross the strip the’stitches facing, doubling the wider strip and «turning in extending through the- material of both tabs, coI its edges, introducing the other margin of the through the tongue and through the sleeve mate-A garment material between the turned in edges rial, thus securing the tongue in itsv folded-in of the latterstrip, securing said latter margin position. This procedure provides a much better and turned in edges ‘by a single sewed seam which and more ñnished appearance at the inside 'of is extended beyond the ,end of the slit opening in the ‘sleeve than results from usual prior practice, such a way as to unite the turned in edges of the and furnishes a strong terminal construction for facing without passing through .the sleeve mate i. the inner end of the slit such as effectively to pre rial, thereby forming a tab of a length which is vent ripping or tearing at this point. substantially one and one-halftimes the Width While one desirable embodiment ofthe inven of the folded facing, folding the triangular tongue tion has been illustrated and described by way 70 ¿ back along its base line so that it contacts the of example, it is to be understoodfthat the inven-v outer surface of the' garment part, laying the tab tion is broadly inclusive of any and all m'odiñca- ' tionsl and substitutionsof equivalent steps fallingv Within the scope of the appended claims. were ' ' - i - of _the-.narrower facing over the folded tongue, laymg;V the tabl of.V the _Wider facing .over the .tab of the narrower facing so as to conceal thevlat» . ’IQ ter, forming a sewed seam extending transversely 2,384,216 across the wider tab at a. point beyond the end of the slit, the stitches of said seam passing through both tabs, the tongue and the garment part, turning in the corners of the tab of the wider strip, and uniting said tab to the sleeve material by a seam which borders the parallel edges of the wider tab and extends along the diagonal lines resultant from turning in the cor 3 material thereby forming a free two-ply tab of the facing material beyond the end of the slit, similarly doubling the wider strip, turning in its edges, introducing the other margin of the gar ment part between said turned-in edges of the wider strip, and uniting the latter margin and the edges of the strip by a sewed seam which is con tinued beyond the end of the slit in such a way ners of the tab. as to unite the edges of the wider facing strip 4. That method of facing the edges of a slit in a garment part which comprises as steps pro viding two strips of facing material each of sub stantially uniform Width, but one wider than theother, each strip being of a length somewhat greater than the length of the slit, doubling the narrower strip, turning in its longitudinal edges, introducing one margin of the garment part be tween the turned-in .edges of the facing strip and uniting the margin and said turned-in edges by a without passing through the garment part, there by providing a free two-ply tab of the wider strip beyond the end of the slit, laying the narrower tab down against the outer surface of the gar ment part beyond the end of the slit, laying the wider tab down over the narrower tab so as to conceal the latter, forming a sewed seam extend ing transversely across both tabs and through the garment part at a point beyond the end of the slit, and uniting the free margins of the wider tab sewed seam which is continued beyond the end 20 to the garment part by sewing stitches. of the slit in such a way as to unite the edges of the facing without passing through the garment SIMON TOULOUMIS.