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Патент USA US2387282

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Oct. 23, 1945.
- Filed Nov. 27, 1941
'4 Sheets-Sheet 1
Oct. 23, 1945.
F'iled Nov. 27, 1941
r202 10
4 Sheets-Sheet 2
,1/4 154
15.9 J65 163 > J46 87 J67
‘Oct- 23, 1945-
- 2,337,282
. Filed 'Nov_. 27, 1941
4 Sheeté-Sheet 3 v
198 76 6’0
Oct. 23, 1945.-
J, A‘ N‘EuMAlR E1- AL
> Filed NOV. 27, 1941
4 Sheets-Sheet}
Patented Oct. 23, 1945
~,oN1rso STATES PATENT orrice
Joseph A. Neumair, Hollis, and Carl W. J ohnson,
Brooklyn, N. Y_.,,-assignors to- American‘ Ma
chine &, Foundry Company, a corporation of
New Jersey
Application November 27, 1941, Serial No. 420,618
5 Claims. (Cl. 112-174)
This invention relates to'sewing machines, more
particularly to necktie sewing machines of the
stationary needle type such- as shown in‘ the
patent to M. M. Newman et al., 2,098,009.
‘One of the objects of the invention is' to-pro
vide an improved reversing mechanism for driv
ing the crimpers to'stitch the lining to the fabric
and then to withdraw the‘ same from the needle.
In the reversing mechanism shown in the co
pending application of M. M. Newman et a1'., 10
Serial No. 250,343; filed January 11, 1939, on
which Patent No.’ 2,282,872 was issued May 12,
1942, the driving and reversing is effected by
stepping on oneor the other of a pair of pedals
which control separate drives from the motor to
'the machine, and occasionally the operator would
In the accompanying drawings, which form a’ '
part of this speci?cation and in which like ‘char
acters of reference indicate the same or like parts:
Fig, 1 is a side elevation of the‘ improved ma
Fig'; 2 is an end elevation thereof‘;
Fig. 3 isa View taken on the line 3—-3 of. Fig. 1,
showing the reversing mechanism and the brake
device, the position of the motor being shown in
dot and dash lines;
Fig. 4 is a detail enlarged View of the crimper
bars which coact to form several narrow pleats
in-the leading‘ end of the liningfandl a single nar
row pleat inthe' lining‘ and superposed necktie
fabric, behind the narrow pleats;
Fig. 5 is a sectional View taken on the line’5--5
stepgupon' both pedals and blow out the motor.
of Fig; 1;. and
The present reversing mechanism is so con
Fig. 6 is a sectional view taken on the-line 64-45
of Fig. 1.v
strncted that this cannot happen.
A further object is to drive the upper sprocket
chain which carries crimper bars meshing with
the crimper bars‘ on the lower driven sprocket
chain. Previously the lower sprocket chain only
was'driven, and the‘leading faces of the crimper
bars on the lower chain would engage the trail-'
ing faces of the crimper bars on the. upper chain
and thereby drive the latter. Thus the crimper
bars on the upper chain would not be centered in
the spaces between the crimper bars on the lower
Referring to-Fig. 1, the crimper bars I0 on the
upper sprocket‘chain l2‘ and the crimper bars M
on the lower sprocket chain it have suitably
beveled faces to provide triangular teeth which
inter-engage with each other as shown, to form
pleats in‘ thesuperposed necktie lining and: fabric
and: advance the same over‘ the eye‘ ['8 ‘o‘f'the
needle 20; The needle is slidably mounted in. a
needle holder 22? of well known construction are
ranged at'the' rear‘end'ofith'e' machine, the holder
consisting of threev superposed‘ plates, the middle
chain,wherefore the lining and fabric would not
be maintained snugly against the trailing faces - plate‘ being provided. with a broad slot in" which
is disposed‘ the‘ rear end of the needle which is
of the crimper bars on the lower sprocket chain
bent into‘ the shape of a hook. The shank of the
and stitches of the desired length would not be
needle extends forwardly through a1 narrow slot
produced. By driving both chains this effect is
35 in the forward end of the middle plate of the
needle holder‘, the narrow slot communicating
Another object is to provide the proper gear
with the broad slot, and through ‘transverse slots
ratio between the lining guide cam and the‘
2"41and26' inl.the' crimper' bars I01 andlll (Fig; 2).
sprocket chains so that the cam will not get out- of
a predetermined timing with respect I to
The slots of opposed criinper bars are aligned ‘
with’ each other and‘ co-act to grip the needle
while the superposed-necktie lining and fabric are
Still another object is to provide a construction
being advanced upon the shank of the needle,
for supporting the upper sprocket chain which
when the sprocket chains l2 and l?'arev driven
.will permit the same to be lifted for access to the
lower chain.
45 in a direction to" stitch the lining and fabric to
gether'. Thus the needle-is‘slidibackwardly in its
Other objects are to provide mechanism for
holder until' its. eye assumes the dotted position
braking the reversing mechanism‘ upon disen
['8 shown in Fig.1.
gaging the latter, to prevent overtravel of the
It is: desirable to‘ form relatively short stitches
sprocket chains, and to‘provide a hinged guard
in the leading end of the lining ahead of the
which will not interfere with the withdrawal of
the pleated‘ necktie from the needle after" stitch‘
longer stitches which hold' the fabric and lining
'ing. With these and other objects not‘ speci?cally
together. For this purpose there are alsomounted
crimper bars.
on the respective sprocket chains’ l2 and I6, op
tain-‘constructions and combinations hereinafter
posed crimper bars 28 and 30, whose opposed
55 faces have inter-engaging teeth which form a
.fully described;
, ‘mentioned in‘ view, the invention consists‘ in- cer
series of relatively narrow pleats in the leading
end of the lining, so that upon penetration of the
same by the needle there will be formed a series
of short stitches ahead of the stitches formed '
when the pleats resulting from the inter-engage
ment of bars I6 and I4 are penetrated by the
needle. There is also provided a‘ crimper bar 32
on the upper chain "I2 ' which engages ‘withone
beveled face of an'underlying crimper bar ‘34',
of electric current. 011 a shaft 88 suitably sup
ported in a bracket 8‘! fastened to the bed 51 and
a cross bar 89 fastened to the brackets ‘I0 and ‘I2
and frames 54 and 56, are mounted frames 80
and 92, the latter having welded or otherwise
fastened thereto a split collar 93 whose ends 94
are fastened together by a screw 96 thereby se
curing the frame 92 to shaft 88. The bases of
the frames 90 and 82 are connected by plates 98
which is of the same con?guration and size as the 10 to which the motor is fastened. The end of shaft
bars I0 and I4 and mounted on the lower chain
'08 protruding from bed 51 is provided with an
I6, to form a single pleat in both the lining-and the
arm I00 connected by a link I02 to a treadle I04
leading end of the fabric thus uniting the same
fulcrumed on a shaft I06 mounted in the bed 51
with a single short stitch when ‘crimper bars 32
of the machine. The link I02 is connected to
and 34 advance this pleat in the lining and the
underlying leading end of the necktie fabric on
the needle. The opposed crimper bars. ahead
of the bars 28 and 30 have the same con?guration
treadle I04 by a pin I08 shown at the right of
the fulcrum in' Fig. 2, so that upon depressing the
end of the treadle marked “F" the shaft 88 will
be rocked by the connection of the treadle to the
and are mounted on sprocket chains I2 and I6 in
arm I00 in a clockwise direction and the friction
the same manner as the crimper bars I0 and I4 20 pulley 82 will be engaged with the ?ange 80 of
following the crimper bars 32 and 34, and are
the V pulley ‘I6 to drive the shaft 68 forwardly.
accordingly designated as I0 and, I4, respectively.
When the end of the treadle marked “R.” is de
The crimper bars 28, 30, 32 and 34 have trans
pressed, the cone pulley 82 willbe engaged with
verse slots similar to the slots 24 and 26. It
the ?ange ‘I8 to drive the shaft 60 in the rear
should be noted, however, that the bar 32 corre- ~ ward direction. Thus the shaft 60 may be driven
sponds to one half of the bar I0 and is spaced
forwardly or rearwardly and a gear Il0 mounted
1% inch from the adjoining bars I0 and 28 like
on shaft 60 will drive a gear II2 mounted on a
all the other bars on the upper sprocket chain.
sprocket H6 supported by a bolt H3 passing
through the front frame 54 and supporting the
whereas the bars on the lower chain abut one
another. Thus bar 32 will inter-engage with bar 30 rear end of the bars H4 and H5. The triple
34 which has the same size and con?guration as
sprocket II6 loosely mounted on the portion of
the bars I0, I4, to form a pleat whose depth is
bolt II3 between the bars H4 and H5 drives the
greater than the pleats formed‘ by bars 28 and
triple sprocket chain I2, the latter running over
the triple idler sprocket II8 loosely mounted on
30, since the tip of the bar 32 projects downwardly
to a greater depth than the teeth of the bar 28. -' the stud I20 (Figs. 1 and 6) passing through the
front end of bar H5, the sprocket H8 and a pair
In prior constructions the tip of the bar corre
of rollers disposed between sprocket I I8 and bars
spending to our bar 32 terminated at a point .
II 4 and II5, and threaded into the front end of
aligned with the tips of the teeth on the bar 28,
the bar I I4 which is fastened to the front frame
wherefore the depth of the corresponding pleat
was insufficient and occasionally the stitch 40 54 by a screw I2I passing through an elongated
slot in the frame 54. The outer ends of the bolt
through said pleat was skipped, but with our
H3 and the stud I20 are thus connected by the
‘construction of the bar 32 the depth of the pleat
support bar II5. On the stud I20 are loosely
is such that the‘ stitch uniting the fabric and
lining will not be skipped.
mounted rollers (shown in Fig. 6) at either end
of the triple sprocket II8 to support the ends
The thread T is drawn from the spool S and
of the crimper bars as they pass around the
guided through a ring 40 and through a hole in
sprocket H8. A nut I22 threaded on the outer
the bracket 42, the ring serving to tension the
end of the shaft I20 retains the sprocket and
thread which is then drawn through a hole 44
rollers thereon.
in guide 46 and through a hole in an upright
bracket 48 fastened to the top plate of the needle: 50 Upon removing the screw I2I it is possible to
tilt the bars H4 and H5 upwardly with the
holder, the thread being then drawn along the
sprocket chain I2 to afford access to the crimper
transverse slots of the crimper bars wherein the
bars on the lower sprocket chain. While the fas~
needle is positioned and threaded through the
tcning of the bar II4 by the screw I2I may be
eye I8 thereof.
dispensed with it has been found that if the bars
The lower sprocket chain I6 may be formed
II 4 and H5 are left unsupported at their front
as a triple width chain running over a triple
ends and free to pivot on the bolt I I3 at ‘their
sprocket 50 fastened on a shaft 52 supported in
rear ends, to permit them to be swung upwardly
the front frame 54 (Fig; 1) and a rear frame 56
when the ?ngers of an operator are accidentally
(Fig. 3), these frames being supported by a bed
51, and chain I6 also runs over a triple sprocket 60 inserted between the crimper bars of the upper
and lower chains, that the pleating and stitching
58 mounted on a. shaft'60 which is supported in
the materials will not be performed satisfac
the front and rear frames 54 and 56. Shaft 60
torily unless the upper sprocket chain is weighted.
carries a sprocket 62 driven by a sprocket chain
With the present construction the screw I2I may
64 from a sprocket 66 mounted on a shaft 68.
‘ be loosened and the bars H4 and H5 swung up
journaled in bearing brackets ‘I0 and ‘I2 sup
wardly or downwardly to position the crimper
ported from frames 54 and 56. On the shaft 68 is mounted a V-pulley or friction wheel ‘I6
having ?anges ‘I8 and 80 between which is ar
ranged a cone-shaped driving pulley 82 adapted
to be moved into engagement with either inner
face of the ?anges ‘I8 and 80 to drive the shaft
80 in a forward or backward direction. The cone
pulley 82 is mounted on the shaft 84 of an electric
motor 86 which is suitably connected to a source
bars on the upper sprocket chain in the desired
relation with respect to the bars on the lower
chain to pleat and stitch the materials satisfac
torily. Thus the bars H4 and H5 may be swung
upwardly or downwardly on bolt II3 to raise or
lower the stud I 20 and thereby raise or lower the
sprocket II8 with the chain I2. The extent of
‘this adjustment is limited by the length of the
slot in frame 54 through which screw I2I passes.
Heretofcre‘. thesupperi chain carrying- the crimper
bars’ wagnotdrivem andinxthepresent construc
are moved. toward? e'achsother' to equidistant posi
tions‘ ‘at either side of the-desired center‘ line of
the lining coinciding with: the needle to properly
tion the‘ additional: drive. .for the upper chain
tends to- keep its crimper bars in the- desired
positionrelativerto the- crimper bars on the lower "
chain and». decrease the drag.
On the end- of the shaft 52. protruding. from
frame 5'4v is mounted: a pinion I30‘ which drives
aring gear I32 attached to a wheel I34 vfastened
on‘. the. shaft 136.. The wheel I34 on its-periphery
length until the cam I38 returns to- the position
‘shown’. in Fig. 2 which occurs when the crimper
bars 28: and 30 have been advanced a predeter
mined maximum distance. toward their rear
carries a cam: I538 which hasa predetermined con
tide/pinion.v I38 "is such that when the sprocket
tour for guiding‘thev cam followers of the lining
guide mechanism. One of the cam followers‘ I48
is supported. ‘by a block I42 fastened by’ a pin
I43v to a. rod I44; A screw I45 fastens a block
I46 to'the rod I44; and to the block I 46 is detach‘
ably secured: by screws [541 a guide ?nger I48
which’hasra downwardly’bent portion on its-upper
end- underlying the transverseportion I58 of the
L-slot I 5+ in the inclined. plateor table I52 which 20
is- provided withv an; extension supported on and
guide. the. lining. during: substantially its entire
The gear. ratio between the ring gear I32 and
chains I2:and1 I6: make one or more complete
circuits around the sprockets and backto initial
position the. cam‘ I38 will also be returned: to its
initial position. wherein the crimper bars 281, 38,_
32' and. 34'. are adjacent the point of ’ the needle.
A suitablegear ratio“ for this purpose is 24 teeth
on: pinion I'318 and 134 teethon- gear I32 if'the
chain I'6 has-1'34 links or pitches and the sprocket
v5i} has 12‘ teeth. Thereforethe gear I32 andcam
I381 will be turned. two complete revolutions when
extending along. the frame‘ 56. The other cam
‘follower I253 is carried bya block I55 which is
the. chains I2‘ and I6. ‘make one complete circuit.
fastenedv by a screw I55 to a rod I51 passing
through notches in the upper ends of the blocks
I.=4~2~ and. I46 and fastened by a screw I58 to the
block I55 on which is secured a‘ ‘guide ?nger
not used, wherefore; if the sprocket chains were
Heretofore the proper" ratio: of these gears was
‘drive-11in a reverse direction to make one or more
complete" circuits; as when drawing the thread
through: the grooves 24' and‘ 26 of the crimper
[61. The latter is detachably secured to block
bars preparatory to. threading it through the eye
I59: by screws I62; and ?nger I-6I is, of the same I
of the needle, the cam I38 would be out of ‘time
shape as ?nger I48: and interchangeable with it, iii) with: respect toithe' crimper bars'ZB and 30. It
and also provided witha bent portion :on its-upper ‘ vis customary in threading the loose‘ end of the
end- underlying the transverse portion I'50‘ of
thread T to insert it betweenv the crimper bars
slot. I.-5.I. One: end of a: tension spring IE3 is
onthe portions of‘the: chains I2 and. I6 running
fastened to a hook I65 on block I59 and its- other
over“ sprockets 58 and H6 and at one side of the
end is secured‘ to a post I6FI= secured’ to the block 84-3 grooves‘ 24' and 26 of the‘ crimper bars whereby
I46; Thus the guide ?ngers, I81 and I48 are
the end of thread T will. be‘ nipped between op
yieldingly- urged. toward. each‘. other, the extent of
posedcrimper bars on chains‘ I2 and I6 as they
separation thereof. being determined: by the-con
interengage one another. Then when the chains
.tour. of. the cam I38i which is- similar to: that
I2 and I6- are further; advanced rearwardly the
shown: in- the‘ co-pending application of J. A.~
end: of‘. thread‘ T will: be drawn between the 0p
Neumair, Serial No; 441,464,. ?led. May 2;, 11942,
and suitably designed to displace the ?nger I61
outwardly to a position wherein its bent upper
end lies at the outer side of- thebend in the slot
posedruns of'chains I2 and I6 and nipped‘ by the
following crimper bars as they interengage with
one another‘adjacent sprockets 58 and H6. The
chains’ are‘ usually‘ advanced rearwardly for at
I5I' tov permit the- lining to he slid-- through‘ the
least one complete circuit after the end of thread
outer end of theslot into‘ the transverse portion ’ T has-been nipped between the crimper bars.
ISO-thereof when the crimper bars 28*and 30' are
Thussuf?cient thread will be drawn. from spool
approaching the position shown in Fig. 1 around
S t'o’provide a su?icient length of thread project
the sprockets H8 and 50. At thesame- time the
ing from between. the opposed runs of chains I2
?nger I48 is~disposed in aposition'tosengage one @359 and I6 adjacent sprockets 58 and II8'which may
‘edge of. a lining. held centrally with‘ respect to
be grasped~ to‘ position the thread in‘ the grooves
the notches24and26in‘ the crimper bars'and-the
24 and: 26 of the opposed crimper bars along the
needle; The leading: end of the- lining. is then
opposed runs of chains I2 and I6. Then the pro
inserted between the crimper bar 28 and: the pre
jecting end of threadT canv be‘ inserted into the
ceding crimper bar I8, wherefore: it is‘v clamped
eye of needle I8. Since the‘ chains I2 and I6 are
between the adjacent sides‘ of. the same“ to be
moved-through a distance‘ corresponding to their
impaled upon the- point of- the needle as bars- 28
entire length while this operation is performed,
and‘. I8 are. advanced to the position shown in
the cam I38 will be turned two revolutions‘ and
Fig. 1. The- leading. end. of. the necktie fabric
will be returned to the same position. If the
is superposed‘ onthezlining- and inserted between C60 cam I38 had been: in the proper position to pro
the. crimper bar 32 and‘ the crimper bar 28,.one
ceed with, the sewing of the lining to the fabric,
edge of the fabric‘ being: positioned along a: sta
‘then’ when the‘ sprocket chains I2 and I6 make
tionary guide (not shown).~ on table" l52~which is
oneoomplete circuit the‘ cam I38‘ will be returned
similar to that shown in- the application of Max
to the same position“ and stitching of the fabric
M. Newman-Serial No. 343,515, ?led- July 2, 1940, . - to the lining can be commenced;
to‘ place: the fabric in. the desired central posi
It was found that upon depressing the treadle
tionrelative tothe needle; the leading end of the
Hi4v the sprocket chains would tend to over-run
fabric being clampedbetween theradjacent sides
thedesired position, and‘ time would 'be wasted
of- the. bars 28 and 32 and stitched to the lining
returning them to the desired position. Accord
asthe bars 28 and 32 continue traveling toward
ingly there" is- provided in the present construc
the rear sprockets. The.- length: of the opposed
ticn mechanism for bra-king the V-pulley ‘I6 upon
runs. of the sprocket- chain' is-su?icient to stitch
movement of- the‘ cone pulley: 82' from driving en
a-desired maximum‘. length‘, of. .fabric to a! lining,
gagement with'either ?ange ‘I8 or 80' to its nor‘
andlthe transverse contour of the=cam or pattern
mal intermediate position. For this purpose'the
band. I38 is-such. that the: followers I48 and. I61
lever I69 which is. fulcrumed on a. stud. I'I'Il fas
~tened' in the plate- I'II 'adjustably fastened to {the
front frame ‘54; has a, V-s‘haped cam notch en
gaging with cam roller I'I3 ‘ on the frame 90.
The lever I69 is connected by an adjustable link
,I‘I5‘lwith a toggleeioint consisting of a long link ,
I11 and a short link I19. One end‘of the link
I ‘I1 is connected by a'pin I'I0'to a block I80 ,at
tached to the end of the ,link I15 and the other
end of link I'I‘I is connected by a pin. I82 to a
bination with‘. an elongated stationary needle;:of
a'pair'"oflendless'traveling supports having op
posed horizontal portions, one of-said portions
lying above the other ofjsaid portions, crimper
members mountedvon' each of said supports, the
crimper members on one support being adapted
.to interengage with the crimper members on the
‘other support‘ along‘said opposed portions of the
supports ‘for forming several narrow pleats in the
bar I84 pivoted on a stud I86 1 fastened in the 10 leading-end of a necktie lining only and ad
cross-bar 89. The short link IE9 is connected by
vancing-them uponlthe needle; a-pair of opposed
a pin I88 to a bar I90 pivoted on a stud I92 simi
larly fastened in the bar 89. To each of the arms
I84 and I90 is fastened an angle iron I94 which
ately vbehind said crimper’members, the crimper
crimper'bars-moun'ted on said'supports immedi
bar on one support being arranged to interengage
is equipped with a facing of suitable brake lining 15 with the crimper‘fbar on the other supportalong
material I96. The bars I841and I90 are con
the opposed portions of said supports and form
nected by a tension spring I98 which normally
a single pleat in the lining and the leading end
maintains thebrake lining material I96 in en
of, a fabric superposed thereon, the crimperbar
gagement with the sides of the V-pulley ‘I6. A
on theupper endless support along said opposite
spring 200 assists in maintaining the v-notch of 20 portions extending downwardly a greater dis‘
the lever I69 in engagement with the cam roller
tance than the crimperlmembers on said upper
I73 on the frame 90, so that when the motor is
support for forming asingle pleat having a great
rocked upon depressing either end of the treadle
or depth "than the pleats'in‘ the leading end'of
I04, the brakejlinings I96 are disengaged from
the lining‘gsaid'fcrimper bars coacting to advance
the sides of the V-pulley ‘I6, but upon releasing .
said single- pleat upon ithe'needle, and crimpers
the treadle the motor swings back to a vertical
behinds'aid crimper bars, the crimpers on said
position and the spring I98 is permitted to re
upper support along said opposed portions ex
engage the brake linings with the sides of the
tending downwardly a greater distance than said
crimper members for forming pleats having a
To the upper edge of the bar H4 is fastened a 30 greater depth than the pleats in the leading end
cover 202 overlying theupper run of the upper
‘of i the, lining.
sprocket chain I2, and at the front end of the
31 In a sewing machine having an elongated
cover 202» is hinged a guard 204 which hangs
needle, the combination with a pair of opposed
down in position to prevent the operator from in- _
endless v‘member's having opposed upper and lower
’ isertin'g her ?ngers between the upper and lower 35 horizontal runs, endless series‘ of crimper' bars
crimper bars. -Heretoiore the guard has been
supported on each of said members and having
fastened to the cover and upon reversing the
triangular teeth, the triangular teeth of the
motion of the crimper bars to withdraw the
crimper bars on each of said opposed runs being
stitched lining and fabric from the needle, bunch
arranged to interengage with the triangular teeth
ing of the pleats formed in the necktie has in 40 of the crimper’bars supported on the opposed
terfered with its egress from under the guard.
endless member to form a series of uniform pleats
With the present construction, the bunchedma
in a superposed necktie lining and fabric and
terial will just swing the guard upwardly and
‘advance the same upon the needle to‘stitch the
not interfere in any way. It will also be noted
fabric and lining ‘together, and the crimper bars
that the lip on‘ the lower edge of the guard is 45 on said lower horizontal run of the opposed runs
upwardly bowed from its middle section toward
having edges disposed at right angles to said
its outer side, thus furnishing su?icient space to
lower horizontal run and arranged in abutting
permit manual insertion of the lining and fabric
relationship with one another to prevent sag;
through this space into the crimper bars, and yet
ging of said lower run.
hindering insertion of the operator’s ?ngers into 50
4. In a sewing machine having an elongated
the path of the crimper ‘bars. It may also be
needle having an eye ‘in its forward end, a set
noted that the guard 204 is suitably cut away
of endless ?exible, traveling supports having op
to permit inspection of the movement of the ma
. posed runs which extend along said needle, series
terial into the crimper bars.
of crimpers mounted on said‘ supports and adapt
What is claimed is:
pt ed to interengage along said‘ opposed runs and
1. In a'sewing machine having an elongated
thereby pleat an associated necktie fabric and
needle, the combination with a pair of endless
lining and advance the pleated lining and fabric
sprocket chains having opposed runs, one of said
along said needle to stitch the same together, a
chains overlying the other chain, two pair 01
rotary endless pattern member, a pair of spaced
sprockets over which said chains run, endless 00 lining guides arranged to'engage and guide the
series of crimper bars supported on each of said
edges of the portion of the lining in front of said
sprocket chainsthe crimper bars on each of the
crimpers and thereby guide the lining as it is
, opposed runs of'said chains being adapted to in
being pleated and advanced upon the needle, said
terengage with the crimper bars on the other of
lining guides being provided with cam followers
the opposed runs and pleat a superposed necktie 65 engaging the opposite edges of said pattern band,
lining and fabric and advance the same upon
and the edges of said pattern band having a
said needle to stitch the same, a pair of supports
contour such that the lining guides will be moved
on which the sprockets of said overlying chain
toward and away from each other and thereby
are mounted, a frame on which one end of said
maintained in engagement with the lining edges
supports is pivotally mounted, said frame being 70 as the lining is advanced ‘by said crimpers; the
provided with an elongated slot adjacent the
combination with means for driving saidsupports
‘other end'of ‘said supports, and a screw passing
through said slot and threaded into one of said
2. In a necktie sewing mechanism, the com
in a forward direction to cause said crimpers to
pleat and advance ‘the entire length of a necktie
‘lining, and the po'rtion'of a‘ necktie fabric 'asso
ciated therewitmupon said needle to stitch the
same together, said means being operable to drive
chains overlying the other chain, two pair of
the supports in a reverse direction to withdraw
sprockets over which said chains run, endless
series of crimper bars supported on each of said
the stitched fabric and lining from the needle,
and mechanism driven from said means for re
volving said pattern band a single complete rev
olution, and thereby returning said pattern band
to initial position, while the crimpers have trav
sprocket chains, the crimper bars on each of the ‘
opposed runs of said sprocket chains being adapt
ed to interengage with the crimper bars on the
other of the opposed runs and pleat an associated
necktie'fabric and lining and advance the same
eled su?‘lciently in a forward direction to ad
upon said needle to stitch the same together, a
vance a complete lining upon said needle, said
mechanism and means being so proportioned 10 support on which the sprockets of the overlying
chain are mounted, a frame on which said sup
that when said supports are advanced in a re
port'is pivotally mounted, and a device for de
verse direction a distance corresponding to their
entire length, as when drawing the thread be
tachably securing said support to said‘ frame
whereby the overlying chain may be swung up
of the needle, the pattern band will be turned 15 wardly upon releasing said device, by pivotally
moving said support upwardly on its pivotal
through several complete revolutions and. re
mounting on said frame.
turned to its initial position.
tween said opposed runs for insertion in the eye
5. In a sewing machine having an elongated
needle, the combination with a pair of endless
sprocket chains having opposed runs, one of said 20
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