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Патент USA US2582742

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Jan. 15, 1952
1.. ARMOUR
2,582,739
DART FOR TORSQ-FITTING LADY’S GARMENT
Filed April 7, 1950
-
INVENTOR
[aw'mlzmamr
“M Maw
ATTORNEYS
Patented Jan. 15, 1952
2,582,739
UNITED STATES sATENr OFFIQE'
DART,EQBJIZORSO-FITTINGLADX’S
GARMENT
,
LouiseArmour; Washington, D. 0;
Application April1'7-‘,,1‘950,.. Serial. No.‘ 154,693
2
.
This invention relates to anew shape of; dart
and‘ location of‘ the same,‘ to improve the“ lines;
or too. short from the arm- scye. to the waistline,
of‘ a suit jacket or any torso-fitting lady's, gar_
ment, out without side, seams or with side seams.
removed two or more, inches to the rear of. the
to secure the; above. corrections facilitates.‘ altera
tionsv by‘ the retail store, and, thereby. enhances
mass production. possibilities of the garment.
Other objects oi: the. invention will appear. as.
the following; description oi? a preferred. andprac
under arm. The invention, also includes‘, a gar
ment employing this’ dart‘.v
A lady’s" jacket or any other torso-?tting} gar
The fact that this one dart alone need baalteredj
tical embodiment. thereof, proceeds,
'
In the drawing which; accompanies andforms.
provide added‘ material the, region, of the, bust, 10, a part of the following speci?cation, and;
throughout the figures of; which, the, same refer'Ifhis’is suppliediby. providing.additionallength of
material over, the .DQi'ntof thebust. from. shoulder.
ence characters have been used to denote- iden.—.~
ticalv parts:
to. waistline, and‘ extra width' oi, material. over
the bust point in. a, transverse direction, It fol‘,
Figure 1. aperspeetive View or. a earnest
loWs that. in. regions other than__ the bust, area, 11.5 ‘embodying the concept. of. the’ invention;
there will be fullness which,v must.v be taken up...
Fisute 2: is a Plan of: the7 eattem for. half the
garment;
The fullness, thatv results. from, added. width of
ment,_iffit isto be ?ttedin. at the, waistline” must.
material is ordinarily removed by. meansof a
dart extending. from. the. front. of the shoulder
downward‘ toward‘, the. point. or the, bust,__and-_ by
means of, another. dart. which extends, from. the.
waistline vertically upward towardthe. bust point,
The fullnesswhich follows item. added, length
of, material usually. results in. the. waistline, being,
Figure 3. is a diaerammaiie View or a. pattern
showing the conventional darts employed- for;v
taking, up fullness surrounding the, bust area,
Referring now in, detail‘ to the several ?gures,
and advertins; particularly to
2:... the
numeral I‘ represents as a whole thejunassembled
pattern for one-half; the garment-on; the» cloth» it
twonarts.
3; and 4, the. front part; 3.- ind-ioating; by the. h oken
lower, at. ‘the: side - than. beneath. the. bust, which. 25 self and shown ?at. This pattern.
fault is. customarily, Qorrected, by cutting. the_ma.-.
terial toprovidefor, alongitudinal side. seam ex.~
tending from the. bight of the arm. scye to. the.
line 5 the normal position of the under armiside.
seam which is. not; present. in this garment, and
the broken line 6_, representing the; position of:
waistline, and providing either a. horizontal dart.
extending. inward from. the. cut. edge of, said. side, 30 the natural; waistline, Thacross; ‘i represents; the
seam toward the bust pointat the, level of, the,
bust point,.or anjnolined dart extending from a
lower point of said side seam toward the bust
point.
bust. point._
.
The numeral 8 represents. the rear edge. of the.
part; 3; which is. to-be brought into. coincidence
with the forward edge 3 of the. part: 4., and; the,
One of the objects of the invention is. to pro.“ 35. edges. sewn together to.v formwhich may be. termed
a side, seam, but. displaced severalv inches to. the.
rear of the. normal location of the underarm side
vide a dart so shaped and‘ located as to. incor
porate the same advantages of the combination
under arm: side seam and; either the horizontal
or inclined dart extending therefrom as. above
seam, which
the. conventional garment; ex
tends. downward from‘ the lowermost point ot
described, and to take the placeoi this'comb-ina 40 the arm scye. to the lower end of the garment in’
a plane perpendicular to the plane of the- waist.
tionwithout requiring the presence- of theunder
arm; side seams. Since'many. ladies’ jackets; and
line. It is assumed that added length and width
other torso-?tting garments are more advan
of material has been-supplied to the part 3 to
tageously out with the side seam eliminated or
accommodate the bust prominence, the apex of
moved from its normal under arm position to one. 45 which is at ‘I. The conventional dart H1 is pro
three or four inches to the rear of said normal
vided for reducing the width of the material
position, the present invention makes it possible
above the bust region. Referring to Figure 3,
to improve both the ?t and appearance of such
one ?nds the conventional dart l I which extends
garments, and to simplify the method of their
from the waistline vertically upward toward the
50 bust point for taking up the width fullness in
manufacture.
Another object of the invention is to provide
the region below the bust area. This is not
a dart which in itself provides the sole means
"shown in Figure 2, for it is one of the darts the
necessary for alteration of the ready-made gar
function of which is'performed by the dart of
ment, should the customer ?nd it to mis?t at the
waistline, or be too large at the hip, or too long,
the subject invention.
This dart, which is designated by the numeral
2,582,739
I2, is an opening which starts at or below the
1. In a lady’s torso-?tting garment, a dart
bust point 1, curves downwardly and rearwardly
toward the waistline, and then follows the line
comprising an opening having acute opposite
ends, one terminating beneath the bust point ad
jacent thereto and the other terminating below
of the hip as far down as the widest portion of
the hip on a long garment, or to the bottom edge
of a short jacket, terminating in the line 5. This
dart in the preferred form shown in Figure 2,
terminates at its upper and lower ends in tails
I3 and I4 of hairline thickness, and gradually
broadens between said tails to the desired width. 10
The tails are substantially parallel and extend, .
oppositely in the general direction of the warp of
the fabric. The center, inclined, and open por
the waistline at a point in a line extending/down
ward from the lowermost point of the arm scye
in a plane perpendicular to the plane of the
waistline, said opening being
progressively
widened from each end towards the middle, the
intermediate part of said opening being inter
sected by the waistline.
less increasing or eliminating the width of this
center opening, depending upon where the
2. In a lady’s torso-?tting garment of the type
in which the side seam is displaced rearwardly
of the line of the conventional side seam which
extends downward from the lowermost point of
the arm scye in a plane perpendicular to the
plane of the waistline, a dart comprising an open
modi?cation of its width is made, adjustment
ing having acute opposite ends, one terminating
tion of the dart extends more or less biaswise of
the fabric and crosses the waistline. . By more or
either in the length of the'material from arm eye
beneath the bust point adjacent thereto, the other
to waistline, or adjustment of the waistline, or 20 at a point below the waistline in a line of the
width over the hip in the case of a long garment,
conventional side seam, said opening being pro
is effected.
gressively widened from each end toward the
Inrthe drawing, the side edges of the material
middle, the intermediate part of said opening
that de?nes the dart have a smooth reverse or
being intersected by the waistline.
S curvature. Alteration of the width of the dart 25
3. In a lady’s torso-?tting garment, a dart
opening by cutting the material of either edge
incidentally changes the length of the cut edge
comprising an opening having acute opposite
ends terminating in slits extending warpwise, one
ending beneath the bust point adjacent thereto,
relative to the opposite edge, but since the open
portion of the dart extends biaswise of the ma
the other at a point below the waistline in a line
terial, there is no difficulty in stretching the 30 extending downward from the lowermost point of
shorter side to the length of the longer side when
the arm scye in a plane perpendicular to the
bringing the edges together in a linear seam.
plane of the waistline, said opening being pro
The following is a summary of the principal
gressively widened from each slit toward the
advantages of the dart and its principal uses.
middle, the edges of said opening being reversely
(a) To be used principally in ladies’ form ?t 35 curved, said opening between said slits lying
ting jackets or other ladies’ torso-?tting gar
biaswise of the material.
ments that do not have side seams, or where the
4. In a lady's torso-?tting garment of the type
side seam is two inches or more to the rear of
in which the side seam is displaced rearwardly of
the under arm point.
the line of the conventional side seam which ex
(b) ‘To improve the ?t of such garments by
tends downward from the lowermost point of the
allowing additional length of material to pass
arm scye in a plane perpendicular to the plane
over the bust point without having the same addi
of the waistline, a dart comprising an opening
tional length continuing laterally of the bust an(
under the arm, where there is no prominence o
the breast to take it up; also to nip in the waist
line and round to the desired curve over the
hip line.
having acute opposite ends terminating in slits,
one ending beneath the bust point adjacent
45 thereto, the other at a point below the waistline
in the line of the conventional side seam, said
'
opening being progressively widened from each
slit toward the middle, the edges of said opening
being reversely curved, said slits lying in the
direction of the warp and the widened part lying
biaswise of the material.
(c) To facilitate subsequent alterations on
garments incorporating this dart, by allowing in
one easy-to—reach dart, quick alterations to im
prove the ?t at any one of the points mentioned
in paragraphs (a) and (b).
LOUISE ARMOUR.
While I have in the above description disclosed
what I believe to be a preferred and practical
REFERENCES CITED
embodiment of the invention, it will be under
The following references are of record in the
55
stood by those skilled in the art that the precise
?le of this patent:
shape or curvature of the edges of the material
de?ning the dart are not to be regarded as abso
lutely critical, so that they may be varied some
what without transcending the scope of the
invention.
\
What I claim as my invention is:
Number
60
UNITED STATES PATENTS
Name
Date
392,493
1,900,678
2,101,564
Brown ___________ __ Nov. 6, 1888
Wester ___________ __ Mar. 7, 1933
Sayour ___________ __ Dec. '7, 1937
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