Graduate School ETD Form 9 (Revised 12/07) PURDUE UNIVERSITY GRADUATE SCHOOL Thesis/Dissertation Acceptance This is to certify that the thesis/dissertation prepared By Christopher Arnold Entitled Shadow Life For the degree of Master of Fine Arts Is approved by the final examining committee: Porter Shreve Chair Sharon Solwitz Bich Minh Nguyen To the best of my knowledge and as understood by the student in the Research Integrity and Copyright Disclaimer (Graduate School Form 20), this thesis/dissertation adheres to the provisions of Purdue University’s “Policy on Integrity in Research” and the use of copyrighted material. Porter Shreve Approved by Major Professor(s): ____________________________________ ____________________________________ Approved by: Nancy J. Peterson Head of the Graduate Program 4-16-2010 Date Graduate School Form 20 (Revised 1/10) PURDUE UNIVERSITY GRADUATE SCHOOL Research Integrity and Copyright Disclaimer Title of Thesis/Dissertation: Shadow Life Master of Fine Arts For the degree of ________________________________________________________________ I certify that in the preparation of this thesis, I have observed the provisions of Purdue University Teaching, Research, and Outreach Policy on Research Misconduct (VIII.3.1), October 1, 2008.* Further, I certify that this work is free of plagiarism and all materials appearing in this thesis/dissertation have been properly quoted and attributed. I certify that all copyrighted material incorporated into this thesis/dissertation is in compliance with the United States’ copyright law and that I have received written permission from the copyright owners for my use of their work, which is beyond the scope of the law. I agree to indemnify and save harmless Purdue University from any and all claims that may be asserted or that may arise from any copyright violation. Chris Arnold ______________________________________ Printed Name and Signature of Candidate 4-16-2010 ______________________________________ Date (month/day/year) *Located at http://www.purdue.edu/policies/pages/teach_res_outreach/viii_3_1.html SHADOW LIFE A Thesis Submitted to the Faculty of Purdue University by Christopher Feliciano Arnold In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Master of Fine Arts May 2010 Purdue University West Lafayette, Indiana UMI Number: 1479798 All rights reserved INFORMATION TO ALL USERS The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. In the unlikely event that the author did not send a complete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. UMI 1479798 Copyright 2010 by ProQuest LLC. All rights reserved. This edition of the work is protected against unauthorized copying under Title 17, United States Code. ProQuest LLC 789 East Eisenhower Parkway P.O. Box 1346 Ann Arbor, MI 48106-1346 ii For Reyna Tenorio siempre enamorada iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Thanks to my parents for their support. To my brother Josh for always looking out for me. To Reyna for her patience and encouragement. Thanks to the MFA Program at Purdue, especially everyone from workshop, all great writers, readers, and friends. Thanks to Patricia Henley for wonderful conversation and for Hummingbird House. Thanks to Sharon Solwitz for her heart and insight. Thanks to Bich Minh Nguyen for her incredible comments and for non-fiction class. Thanks to Porter Shreve for helping me sift through all those pages looking for a book. iv TABLE OF CONTENTS Page ABSTRACT……………………………………………………………………………….v PART ONE………………………………………………………………………………..2 PART TWO……………………………………………………………………………...66 PART THREE………………………………………………………………………….112 PART FOUR……………………………………………………………………………220 PART FIVE…………………………………………………………………………….285 v ABSTRACT Arnold, Christopher Feliciano. M.F.A. Purdue University May 2010. Shadow Life. Major Professor: Porter Shreve. A novel-in-progress. When an adopted Brazilian-American journalist searches for his birth parents in Rio de Janeiro, he discovers that some doors are better left closed. 1 Verdadeiramente há só uma desgraça: e não nascer. Truly there is only one misfortune: not being born. -Jaoquim Maria Machado de Assis 2 PART ONE 3 At sunrise I waited for Daveison by a corner fruit stand on Avenida Pessoa. No sleep the night before. Traffic curved around the lagoon, motorbikes and busses, police cars and taxis, kombi drivers trolling the curb for fares. Reflections of clouds darkened the water like bruises. I wanted to abandon this plan, but Daveison would insist. A surprise attack was the only way. One-sided, yes, but so was adoption itself. Phoning first allowed parents to deny history. Face to face encounters brought the past to life. I worried that my reappearance could wreck a home, but Daveison assured me that in Brazil, family was family. Over the years, he’d seen mothers embrace their children like lost lovers, or cast prayers as if they were vengeful spirits returned. But he’d never seen one turn her back. The fruit vendor arranged mangos and avocados and cigarettes in neat rows. I asked for the time and he glanced at his cell phone. 7:14. Five more minutes, and I’d call the whole thing off. This wasn’t even the real purpose of my trip. Twenty-fouryears old, and back in Rio de Janeiro for the first time since birth, I was supposed to be filing travel stories for The Portland Pioneer. But I had information about my birth mother, and Daveison had a number in the white pages. We’d made all the arrangements by phone. Notebook in hand, I listened, waiting to jot down the details of our search, but Daveison went on and on about Casa de Esperança. 4 He’d lingered in the orphanage for thirteen years before he ran away. That night he slept under a palm leaf on the beach, and when he woke up, his caretaker Abigail was waiting beside him, holding two hot cheese sandwiches wrapped in foil. Together they watched the sun peer over the Atlantic. On the walk home she asked why he left. Daveison said he was sick of being a burden. So Abigail collected money to hire him at the Casa da Esperança, first as a cook, then as a gatekeeper, and later as a tutor for the little ones. By 1981, the year I was born, Daveison was stationed behind the front desk, shepherding foreigners like my parents through the Brazilian courts. Under his guidance, my adoption was certified the night I was born, a new life, a farmhouse in Partway, Oregon. Now a cream-colored kombi skidded to a stop in front of me, hazard lights blinking red. A small black man slipped out the door. Peter! he said. A taxi whisked past, honking at him for blocking the lane. On the sidewalk he embraced me as if we’d known each other our entire lives. I couldn’t sleep all night, I said. Listen to this guy’s Português, Daveison told the fruit vendor. Carioca da gema! His was the same voice from the phone, low and smoky, but I’d expected someone bigger. This Daveison looked like the next gust of wind might blow him into the lagoon. He opened the passenger door and cleared loose papers from the seat. I climbed inside and he hustled around to his place behind the wheel. Big day for us, he said, turning down the radio. It’s okay if you’re scared, but be excited, too. I am. Scared or excited? 5 Both. Tudo bom, he said. If you weren’t a little scared, I would worry you hadn’t thought this over. Now before we go on, a cafézinho. A caravan of furious drivers squeezed past the kombi, but Daveison didn’t budge. From under his seat he withdrew a blue metal thermos and a sleeve of Styrofoam cups. He filled two half-full with steaming coffee. Sweet and strong. I needed it. I’d spent the previous night wide-awake on the futon, listening to my best friend Gary snoring on the couch like a timber mill. He was in Rio for a two-week soccer clinic, and by ten o’clock, he was passed out with ice packs on his knees. I could hardly close my eyes, listening to sirens wail past on the street outside. It had only been five weeks since Mom’s funeral, the last station on a wearisome road. We were supposed to make this trip together. How would she feel knowing I’d come here so soon? Daveison sipped his coffee, flipping through a clipboard of fuzzy printouts. Rain tapped on the roof of the van. We are super-fortunate, he said. Based on the information you gave me, and the files I uncovered, there is only one Sonia Aúrajo who is the right age to be your mother. In a city of 10 million? I asked. Well we have 31 Sonia Aúrajos living here now, he said. But your registry says she was sixteen that year, which leaves just one match. So it appears God is on our side. Daveison set the clipboard on the seat between us, dozens of Aúrajos listed in neat rows. My entire life I’d been carrying that name like an overstuffed duffle bag. Mom always wanted me to remember where I’d come from, so she gave me a middle 6 name that would never let me forget: Peter Aúrajo Randolph. Looking at the list, I imagined the hundreds of Aúrajos walking this city, some of them blood relatives. In the rear-view mirror, police lights flared like jewels. Transit cops rolled past in a blue and white compact, buzzing their siren. Daveison gave them thumbs up and threw the van in gear. The engine droned in the rear of the kombi as we accelerated around the lagoon. Delivery boys on mopeds slicked past my window. At traffic lights, street kids held up spray bottles and squeegees, their business ruined by the quickening rain. We passed two ambulances askew in a pool of broken glass, EMTs treating each other’s wounds. Daveison never seemed to look at the road, his attention divided between girls on the sidewalk and the clipboard on his lap. When he noticed me clutching the oh-shit bar, he cranked up the radio--Transamerica 101.3--as if samba would soothe my nerves. I’d imagined an epic journey across the city, but just across the water Daveison turned onto a quiet street lined with mango trees. A neighborhood like this was the last place I’d expected to find her. A pack of toy dogs wearing little windbreakers trotted across the street, leashed to a dog walker gabbing away on her cell phone. German cars slipped through cast-iron gates, private guards locking up behind them. Giving me up had allowed my birth mother a new life. A slate, wiped clean. Birth mother. I’d learned that phrase from Mom and Dad, Vanessa and Michael Randolph, who learned it from the pre-adopt guide. Mom and Dad, who changed diapers and cooled fevers, who taught me how to use toilets and tie shoes, how to shear a sheep and drive a tractor. Real parents who taught me about birth parents. This invented distinction, birth parents, this line of defense against childhood interrogations: Do you like your fosters? When do you go back? What happened to your real parents? As if 7 Mom and Dad were imposters, these Randolphs, who saved my art projects like real parents, but who weren’t to be confused with the real. But it was my birth parents who were figments. And they remained so until the night before Mom passed away, when she clutched my hand and directed me to go home and look. Look in her bedroom closet. Look in the firebox on the top shelf. There I found a burnt-orange envelope, a letter from Sonia Aúrajo. Here we go, Daveison said, stomping his brakes. Through the rain-streaked window I saw an old colonial home, tucked behind a stucco wall that was spiked with broken glass. Daveison squinted at the address number and checked it against his clipboard. She must have won the lotto, I said. No no no, Daveison said. She works here. Another possibility: Sonia was still a maid. One of few details I’d gleaned from that old letter. She was a domestic servant, unmarried, her pregnancy an embarrassment to her employer, a shame to her father. She was kicked to the street, penniless. She was a woman of faith, but faith could not feed a child. The windshield wipers tugged a mango blossom across the glass. Daveison pulled the keys from the ignition. You look pale, he said. Breathe. After this, no matter what, I take you to chicken kabobs. I should wait here. They don’t answer for a black man in this neighborhood, Daveison said. We go together. 8 We stepped out into the rain and approached the gate. On the second floor of the house, hydrangeas dangled over the wrought-iron balcony, dripping water onto the stone walkway. Daveison touched the intercom. A woman’s voice crackled through the speaker. We’re looking for Dona Sonia Aúrajo? Daveison asked. The voice responded: You have the wrong address. No no, Daveison said. Could you please ask your patrão? One moment. A curtain fluttered on the second floor. I imagined Sonia peering down, wondered if she would see herself in me. The gate clicked. Please come in, the voice said. At the door stood a chubby young woman in a maid’s uniform, hair pulled into a tight bun. From down the stairs came a woman in a pink leotard, her dyed blonde ponytail swaying along her shoulders. In her hands she carried two small weights. Sweat glistened on the bridge of her nose. May I help you? she asked. Daveison told our tale. The woman listened, still catching her breath. Yes, she worked for us two years ago, she said. But we needed someone who could get on her knees with the children. Do you know where she is now? I asked. We hired her through an ad in O Globo, the woman said, but perhaps my husband kept her information. She whispered instructions to the maid who hurried down the hallway, scent of lemon in her wake. 9 Did she have kids? I asked. A family? Was she healthy? Acalma, Daveison said, touching my shoulder. I wish I could say more, the woman said. She was only with us a short time. Do you have a picture? I asked. My entire life, I’d never seen a blood relative. I’m afraid not, she said. Did she look anything like this gentleman? Daveison asked. The woman examined me, cocking her head slightly. A bit like you, I suppose. Yes, I can see it. Around the eyes. Aqui está, the maid said, returning with a small yellow index card. Sonia’s name. An address. No phone number. The handwriting looked different than in her letter, a world-weary version of the same penmanship. May we keep this? Daveison asked. Of course, the woman said. We wish you luck. No time for kabobs. The address directed us to the Morro Floresta de Tijuca, a favela tucked against the jungle west of here. We sped. In the darkness of the Túnel Zuzu Angel, the kombi engine gave an echoing roar, chasing us toward the oval light. A city bus surged past, its passengers like specters in the foggy glass. We emerged on the other side and turned toward the Floresta. The rosary hanging from the rear-view mirror swung like a pendulum as we wound our way up the hills. The rain grew heavier, and before long we were driving through clouds. At last we turned sharply up a steep dirt road, green and yellow streamers strung in celebration of the Copa do Mundo. Several women huddled under the bus stop, turning their heads as we rattled uphill. The lane narrowed, penetrating the clutter of cinder-brick homes and storefronts. Soon a boy 10 wearing a garbage bag as a rain slicker stepped into our path, signaling for Daveison to stop. No more road, Daveison said. He pulled the kombi to the side, turned the steering wheel hard right, and yanked the emergency break, but at this wild pitch it seemed the slightest tap would send the van rolling. Number 226? Daveison asked. The boy pointed uphill toward the jungle. Daveison paid the boy cinquenta centavos and promised more when we returned. Muck trickled at our feet as we walked. Behind us, the boy guarded the kombi, clicking his tongue, coaxing a curious tamarin from a nearby rooftop. A life I could have led. From these hills, a view of the ocean, gray water under gray sky, empty beaches, cityscape damp and gritty. We stopped once more to ask directions from a silver-haired woman seated at her open window. She gestured down a crooked alley with wires and clothes lines criss-crossed overhead. We entered single file, Daveison first. The homes were boxes of brick roofed with corrugated tin, adorned with crucifixes and potted flowers and painted address plates above the doors. Here was 226. Para cá, Daveison said. Ready? I drew in a chestful of salty mist. Daveison rapped his knuckles on the door. Birth mother. I summoned that old defense, but it failed. For nine months, this woman had fed me; in her belly, I grew veins, fingers, eyes. Two deadbolts turned. The door opened a crack. A tiny woman peered through, holding a phone to her ear. Dona Sonia Aúrajo? Daveison asked. 11 I examined her face for features similar to mine--deep set-eyes, thick black curls, a small, pointed nose. She met my gaze, no sign of recognition. She doesn’t live here no more, the woman said. Por que não? I asked. She never paid on time. I don’t rent rooms for free. Where is she now? I asked. Só Deus sabe, she said, eager to return to her call. Tell her she still owes me trezentos reals. Obrigado, Daveison said, stepping away. The woman went on with her conversation and bolted the door. I raised my hand to knock again. Peter, Daveison said. Leave this woman alone. She has to know something, I said. She can at least put down the phone. If she knew more, she would tell us, Daveison said. You think she hasn’t tried to get her money? Come on now. Let’s get out of the rain. He started back up the alleyway. Maybe she has a picture? I said, following. We’re getting closer. This takes patience. Closer? I said. There’s a million houses off the grid in this city. She could be dead for all we know. Don’t think that way, he said. This is all fantastic news. She is alive, working. You still have many questions, no? But some answers are better than none. Twenty-four years as a domestic servant. Too worn down to play on her knees, too broke to make rent. A son three thousand miles north, oblivious. 12 We approached the kombi. The boy wearing the garbage bag sat on the bumper, flipping his coin. Daveison handed him another and we climbed inside. What now? I asked. He retrieved the thermos from under his seat, poured two fresh cups, lukewarm now. Reaching across my lap, he popped open the glove box to reveal an assortment of packaged cookies. Take your pick, he said. Daveison understood patience the way a bird understood flight. I imagined his years at Casa da Esperança, waiting for parents who never came, a disappointment that hollows the bones. These are only salgados, he said. I promised you kabobs. At my door, the boy tapped on the glass. Já! Daveison snapped, but the kid didn’t move. I cranked down the window and held out a packet of sugar cookies. The boy snatched them and fled downhill, shrinking away in the side-view mirror. 13 That Tuesday, the city took a holiday in reverence of Brazil’s opening match in the Copa do Mundo. Gary had no soccer clinic, and I coaxed him into riding the 312 bus to Avenida Atlântica. Not taking a cab was a big step for him. Aside from our 4th grade field trip to the Oregon Coast Aquarium, Gary had never been this far from Partway. Everyone on the bus, including the driver and cobrador, sported some variation of the national jersey. We found seats a few rows apart. Minutes after we boarded, Gary volunteered his spot to a gentleman with a cane, and now he clutched the overhead rail with his one good hand, staggering as the bus cornered like a rollercoaster. Near the Copacabana Palace Hotel, I signaled for our stop. When Gary tried to exit through the front turnstile, the cobrador pointed him to the rear door. The bus left us on the corner in a cloud of exhaust. “Let’s never do that again,” Gary said. “It’s healthy to get out of your comfort zone.” “Quit saying that.” The afternoon sky was endless blue. The coast formed a two-mile crescent, Cariocas and tourists side by side on the sand. A giant digital display counted down the days, minutes, hours, and seconds until the 2007 Pan-American games, less than a year away, but an afterthought to tonight’s match versus Croatia. 14 Poor, poor Croatia, said the beer man who rented us a pair of nylon beach chairs. Ronaldinho would dismantle those simplórios. The sixth championship was inevitable, no? We planted our chairs near the fresh water shower where two girls stood face to face, rinsing sea salt from their bodies. Vendors weaved through a minefield of flesh, hawking sunglasses and t-shirts, shrimp and fried cheese, cerveja and iced tea. Body surfers floated in with the tide. Near the volleyball nets, policia in shorts watched a women’s game, sunglasses reflecting bikini clad bom boms. Stripping off my shirt and board shorts, I plopped down in my Speedo. “Christ-all-mighty,” Gary said, “you’re going to blind someone with those thighs.” “When in Rio.” “I hope you burn.” He fished around his backpack for sunscreen. The other day he’d fried like bacon, and he was still deep crimson, except for his right hand, which remained its usual glorious peach. Gary was born with limb reduction, missing one hand, his left. The prosthetic looked decent, but when contrasted with his sun burnt arm, it resembled what it was--a piece of plastic. Back in junior high guys would snatch it and play keep away, girls would decorate it with fingernail polish when Gary fell asleep in class. I was the only one who never gave him shit. I accepted his hand, or lack thereof; he accepted that I looked nothing like my blonde and blue-eyed parents, or any of the freckled kids in Partway. We cracked our beers. A zit-faced teen wearing a backpack shuffled past, whispering an offer for smoke and bomba. 15 “So when do you think you’ll hear from your guy?” Gary asked. “Don’t know,” I said. “It’s a big city.” “At least you got to see where she worked.” “That was probably a different Sonia,” I said. As an adoptee, self-deception was a survival instinct. Daveison and I had the wrong woman. The real Sonia Aúrajo was healthy, happy, employed. In front of us, a trio of teenage girls splashed in the water, careful not to spoil their makeup, crouching just low enough for waves to wash over their breasts. “Why don’t Partway girls dress like this?” Gary said, plunging his beer can into the sand. “Because it’s 3,000 miles north,” I said. “And there’s no beach.” I was grateful to have Gary around. He was the closest thing I’d ever had to a brother. He also made me feel more Brazilian by contrast, like the way frumpy girls make their average friends look hot. “I wanna bring these girls back to Oregon.” “Stay a couple weeks longer,” I said. “Some of us have real jobs.” Gary taught woodshop and coached soccer at our old high school, and he had to get back for summer school. These days, he was a campus legend. The first day each semester, he unfastened his prosthetic to reveal his flaky, elbow-like stub: Safety Lesson #1. The students were awestruck. After school, he was Coach Murphy, commander of the varsity soccer team, feared by his athletes, beloved by the community. Soccer was the only way could convince him to join me in Rio--the onetwo combination of a World Cup in Rio and coaching clinic called FUTESCOLA! was 16 enough for him to finally apply for a passport. Every morning an air-conditioned shuttle van picked Gary up at our apartment, delivered him to an Astroturf field where he and two dozen other U.S. coaches learned drills and plays from the Brazilian stars of yesteryear. Gary hoped those secrets would lift his team to state. Now that trio of girls rose from the waves, bathing suits dripping. “I’m getting in,” Gary said. He unclipped his prosthetic and tucked it under his towel. “Keep an eye on this. The guidebook says there’s thieves.” “Who would want your sweaty hand?” I said. “It’s probably fungal.” He raised his stub, a phantom middle finger, and jogged to the water. At least he was having fun. I owed him that. The last year of Mom’s treatments, I’d called on him a few times to visit the hospital when I couldn’t make it down to Portland. He would bring flowers, sit, and talk. Gary never understood how I could stay up in Portland while my mother was fading. Mom knew I dreamt of being an international journalist, and she knew that couldn’t happen at The Partway Weekly Shopper. For two years I covered the city courthouse for The Portland Pioneer, driving home on weekends to help with chores around the farm. The Pioneer was a large daily; I was building good clips. But following Mom’s funeral, I’d found myself paralyzed in the mornings, standing in the shower after the water had run cold. Day by day, I used up all my accumulated leave, a Monday here, a Friday there, until I missed an entire uncompensated week. Condolences poured in from the newsroom, yet it wasn’t so much Mom’s passing that had me crippled. For eight years Dad and I had watched her pass through a crushing cycle: treatment, remission, relapse. No. What had me overwhelmed was translating that letter 17 from Sonia, swallowing my anger at Mom for keeping it secret for 25 years. For never writing back. In my dim apartment, I worked through each page of the letter with a PortugueseSpanish-English dictionary, relying on college Español to make sense of Sonia’s words. A solitary task, too private for a translator. I listened to a 16 CD set of Brazilian Portuguese lessons on repeat. I watched old Brazilian movies--Pixote, A Hora da Estrella--pouring over the subtitles. Portuguese was escape to another world, one without a word for grief. Three weeks ago, my tobacco-stained editor Chuck Gasparino showed up at my Hawthorne apartment, dug me out from under a pile of beer cans and takeout boxes. He’d taken a chance on me as a dopey summer intern, and here was his investment, going to rot. “You look and smell like ass,” he said. “Take a trip. Bang out a few stories, snap some pictures. We’ll have payroll move you to freelance until you get home, if we’re not bankrupt by then.” Extended bereavement leave, the paperwork said. I couldn’t tell if it was a sweetheart deal, or Chuck’s way of laying me off piecemeal. Either way, it was an opening, an excuse to see Brazil. Trouble was, I’d been here two weeks without cracking my notebook. Now a policia helicopter thwapped along the coast, low enough for its blades to disturb the water. A pair of officers dangled their legs out the side door, panning binoculars along rows of sunbathers. In the middle distance, surfers bobbed, waiting for the next set. Near shore, a man and his son in matching Speedos rode a wave toward the sand. Gary ran back to our chairs, ordered two more beers from the vendor, and took his seat. 18 “Did you hear that?” he said. “I just used Portuguese.” “It’s cerveja,” I said. “Cerveza is Spanish.” “Look, smart guy--it says right here.” He refastened his hand and flipped through his phrasebook. “Visitors to Rio will find that Spanish is understood by most Cariocas.” “You should be reading the book I gave you.” “I left that hunk of junk at the apartment,” Gary said. “Too heavy to lug around all day.” “It’s better than your little instruction manual. It makes us stick out like total gringos.” “We already stick out,” Gary said. “Especially with your pasty-ass thighs. You’re not going to fix that with your nerdy book.” I’d lent Gary my copy of The Brazil Reader, a collection of academic essays that covered pre-discovery through the abertura. It was a book I’d purchased in college, after my Latin American History teacher--Argentinean--refused to talk about Brazil except to say it was a special case, best left for the end of the semester, if there was time, which there wasn’t. The beer vendor delivered our fresh cans: Os últimos, he said. “What’d he say?” Gary asked. “Last ones.” Por que? I asked the vendor. Quase na hora de Rolaldinho, he said. We turned our chairs to catch a few last minutes of sun, which sank now over the hotel rooftops. A few boys were tangled in a half-field soccer game, while beside them a group of men and their girlfriends played futevolei--volleyball with the feet. A pair of 19 white-haired turistas snapped photos as if witnessing a circus, Brazilians getting 7/8ths naked and performing dazzling tricks. “Get in on that soccer game,” I said. Futebol, he said. “At least you know one word of Portuguese.” “Not enough to play with them.” “Sport is the international language.” “Then you get out there, Mr. Brazil.” “No thanks,” I said, but I yearned to join. It wasn’t language holding me back. While Gary was an All-Conference forward back in high school, my sport was basketball. I was the only Brazilian on the face of the planet who’d never played an organized game of soccer. Twenty-four-years-old, and I’d never scored a goal. A fucking shame. But it was too late; my feet were gringo feet. The futevolei ball landed near our chairs. I tossed it back to one of the girls. Juggling it on her toes, she kicked it to her friend, who smiled, brushing sand from her kneecaps. “Now there’s something you won’t find in your book,” Gary said. “A real Brazilian would never throw a ball back, he’d kick it. Even I know that.” I didn’t know how to explain to Gary why I clung to The Brazil Reader. Good reporting needs context, but it was more than that. Growing up, all I knew of Brazil was what I learned from Mom’s stories. She bathed the country in magnificent light-melodious birds, adorable monkeys, musical people who loved to dance. But if Brazil was such a paradise, why would Sonia have given me up? Mom explained that the 20 country had some growing pains, end of story. I tried to reconstruct the history myself, eavesdropping on phone calls, sifting through old pictures, but I quit asking questions. Mom seemed wounded by my curiosity; Dad seemed content to imagine that I’d arrived via FedEx. The Brazil Reader told of colonial pillaging and ruthless slaveholding, a Presidential suicide, a regime of despotic generals, torture, censorship, economic implosion. And then I was born. I needed to understand the tectonics of Brazil, 1981. Right here, up the beach, hillside shanties were clumped like brick piles, ready to slide into the sea. I had family in those hills. A burden, and a badge. I was ashamed of my privilege; I wasn’t just an ignorant gringo. The beer man came for our chairs. The beach was thinning out, futebol fans dispersing to watch the game. We packed up and brushed off sand. The coaches at Gary’s clinic had invited everyone to a bar to see Croatia get destroyed. On Avenida Atlântica, Gary hailed a cab. “Let’s walk,” I said. “No time.” I hated cabs. Stepping into one made me feel like a gringo alarm was wailing just over my head. But Gary was right--the game started in twenty minutes. He told the driver the name of the bar in phrasebook Portuguese. The cabbie turned the radio from Transamerica 101.3 to some Top 40 U.S. station. At least it was a short ride. We slid out, left damp imprints of our ass-cheeks on the seats. Shenanigans, an Irish Pub. Whoop-dee-fuckin’-do. We might as well have been in Portland on St. Patrick’s Day. In the corner, a guitarist sang U2 covers in wobbly 21 English. Gary ordered a pitcher of beer. A few of his FUTESCOLA! friends were clumped in a corner booth, sunburns peeling. They tried to make nice. “Are you from Oregon, too?” they asked. “Yep.” “It’s fucking awesome here, huh?” “Yep.” “He’s not usually this serious,” Gary said. I tried to block conversation by thumbing through that day’s edition of O Globo, trolling for story ideas. The prefeitura was making plans to build walls around the hillside favelas, to protect the floresta, they said. Opponents claimed it was to cover up the poverty before the Pan-American games. I imagined Sonia, living off the grid, soon to be walled in. I didn’t want to be rude, but I didn’t come to Brazil to meet Americans. Every English word I spoke seemed to sap some of my already meager reserves of Brazilian-ness. The more I lingered on the periphery, the more I defined myself. Gary’s coaches arrived, former soccer stars in their old club warm-ups, and just like that, whatever Brazilian-ness was inside me evaporated. In their company were six half-drunk American women, this year’s female cohort from FUTESCOLA! If they hadn’t been fucked silly already, it wouldn’t be long now. The game began, and it was as if the bar was divided into two camps: Futebol fans, screaming and shouting and whistling, and gringos, entertained more by the fanfare than by the game itself. Sadly, I fell into the second camp. I knew all the history of Brazilian soccer from The Brazil Reader, but when it came to the beautiful game itself, I could never bring myself to pay attention to anything but penalty kicks and replayed goals. It was a simple matter of 22 taste. Not enough scoring. I needed a sport where points were put on the board every minute of every game. Soccer on TV had only one redeeming quality--sparse commercials. Sipping my bitter beer, I watched Gary arguing with Brazilians over the nuances of Croatian defense, which held the magical quartet scoreless. Ronaldinho was failing. Finally, in the 44th minute, Kaká redeemed Brazil with the game’s only goal. I was glad when the game ended, when last call arrived, when the place shut down. “Let’s take a cab,” Gary said. “We’re walking. It’s a nice night.” Drunken fans stumbled about Plaça General Osorio, whooping and hollering, looking for one last drink. As we left Ipanema, the crowds grew sparse, security guards gathered here or there, recapping the match. Firecrackers and celebratory gunfire from the hills, sidewalks aced with shadows. The shops were shuttered and now the avenida was one long corridor of graffiti, trash bags piled high on the corners. The bus stops were plastered with posters of Angelina Jolie, standing in a jungle with a gun in her hands. A trio of police cars raced up the empty street, blowing red lights. We passed the Howdy Howdy discotheque. A white man climbed into a cab with a black woman, pushed her against the window glass, one hand in her hair, the other up her skirt. On the next corner, a boy and girl huddled together under a rain-bloated TV box. “Let’s grab a bite,” Gary said. We staggered into a corner market, the only place open, and ordered two empanadas from the bleary cashier behind the counter. Waiting for him to count back our change, I felt a tug at my shirt. A kid no taller than my kneecaps looked up at me, binky in his mouth. 23 Vai, vai, vai! the cashier said, shooing the little boy back out the door. “Holy shit,” Gary said. “That kid was like two.” “His mom’s out there somewhere,” I said, ordering two more empanadas. “Giving money to beggars makes more beggars,” Gary said. “It’s not money, it’s food. I could see his ribs.” “You shouldn’t encourage it,” Gary slurred. “Especially you of all people.” He left the market and stumbled on. I paid and stepped outside. The boy had vanished into the shadows with his mother. I lingered a while on the corner, an empanada in each hand, hoping they might come out. Could this have been my life? Was trying to survive better than saying goodbye forever? I had no business questioning Sonia. My life in the United States was a stroke of good fortune. But what if she hadn’t let go? Gary waited halfway up the block, peering into a gate house, a valet watching Copa highlights on a tiny TV. I found my balance, tried to keep from plunging into that gap between where I’d come from, and where I’d travelled. 24 Daveison called the next morning and asked me to meet him for lunch at a kiosk near the Carioca metro station. I left Gary a note saying we’d meet up after his clinic. It was raining hard and when I surfaced from the subway, I was swarmed by street kids selling two for one pocket umbrellas. Businessmen hustled past, shielding their hair with copies of O Globo. Sidewalk vendors in ponchos grilled tapiocas for the cleaning ladies on lunch break. I spotted Daveison tucked under an awning like a cat hiding from the storm. We found a table for two. Daveison ordered a giant bottle of orange soda and filled two glasses to the brim. I have two pieces of good news, and one piece of shitty news, he said. I can give you the good news first, or-Shitty first, I said. Ta bom, he said. Well, Peter. Nothing is impossible, but I’m afraid that it is 99 percent impossible to find your Sonia Aúrajo. I leaned back in my chair. I’d been warned. I’d been a fucking idiot for expecting any other outcome. This wasn’t an after school special. 25 I checked every avenue, Daveison said. The housekeeping agencies, the hospitals. There are many cracks in this city. In all likelihood-On to the good news, I said. A street sweeper in an orange uniform walked past our table, brooming damp trash into his pan. I hope that you’re not angr-Please, Daveison. The good news. The good news is this, Daveison said. In the years before you were born, the Ministry of Labor required domestic workers to report the terms of their employment-wages, dates, and so forth. These files are off the public record, but I was able to take a peek at Miss Sonia’s. How? Um jeizinho, he said. You know this word? There’s no good way to say it in English. “A favor…a way…” “A favor,” I said. Close enough. What did you find out? He presented me with his clipboard, photocopies of Sonia’s contracts. Now look here, Daveison said. An entry circled in red pen: Dom Ricardo Alfonso Trabalhos domésticos $160 cruzeiros p semana De 21 Septembro 1980 Até 20 Abril 1981 26 What do you notice? She wasn’t there very long, I said. Here’s what else, Daveison said. The contract ends just four months before you were born. Plus, Dom Ricardo Alfonso was a banker, and the letters that your mother sent to America said that your father was a very bright man. How do you say in English, “Binko?” “Bingo,” I said. “Bingo!” Daveison said. You see, this was a very common story at Casa da Esperança. A maid and her patrão, having a little fun. Mistakes are made. When the Dona discovers what her husband is up to, well…bad things happen. A little fun. Mistakes are made. Bad things happen. Daveison was feeding me sugar-sprinkled horseshit. But this is a wild guess? I said. Not a guess, an investigation. An ongoing investigation. I am learning about this Ricardo Alfonso piece by piece, and I tell you, there is a good chance he is your birth father. The possibility cast a shadow over the mythology I’d dreamed up over the years. I’d relegated my birth father to a secondary role, nameless, faceless. The mother, not the father, births a child. Only she can give one away. So you think I should meet him? It’s not so easy, Daveison said. This man has come a long way since 1981. He worked for Unibanco, then for the prefeitura, and then for the Banco do Brasil. He has many friends, in the government, at the papers. A very powerful man. But he cherishes 27 privacy. Except for this record from Sonia, his life has been a whisper. A proper investigation will require more time. How much time? One month, Daveison said. And I’m afraid, more money. I knew this was coming. How much? Same as always. Half now. Half later. But if this turns out to be another dead end, I refund your money. I couldn’t afford this. I still owed Chuck an article. Gary was headed back to Partway at the end of the week, and after that, I was covering rent by myself. But Daveison had legit connections. If I could meet this Dom Ricardo, I could explain the story of Sonia. The man had to have some sense of shame. He could help her. Only the three of us would have to know. So where do we start? Right there, Daveison said, pointing across the street. A sleek high-rise, steel and smoked glass: Sociedade Comercial do Rio Novo. Dom Ricardo is one of the big boys, Daveison said. They fund developments across the city. Let’s drop in for a visit. No no, Daveison said. This man is a jaguar. We must be careful how we approach him. Leave that to me. In the meantime, I promised you more good news. We are going to go visit Casa da Esperança. I thought it was torn down. It was, he said. But I want to show you the old neighborhood. You’re not curious? 28 When? Now, he said, signaling for our check. Vamos. Whatever the story of my origins, my life in Brazil began and ended at Esperança. The orphanage was part of a long tradition in Rio, beginning in colonial times when so many abandoned children wandered the city that convents established foundling wheels for good Samaritans to deposit little ones before they were snatched up by packs of dogs. International adoption bloomed only briefly, around the time I was born. Esperança closed down in the late ‘80s, when local politicians decided that only a Third World country would need to send its children abroad. I wanted to see the remains, even if only as a grave site where I could pay respects to whatever inside me was Aúrajo. In a way, Casa da Esperança was a portal between worlds, from Rio de Janeiro to Partway, from an urban shelter where children played with donated toys, to a farmhouse where Gary and I camped in front of the Nintendo. Esperança was the soul project of a woman named Abigail Long, an altruistic Christian who had grown up in Partway, and who like most of us, moved as far away as possible. After a decade of international mission work, she settled in Rio de Janeiro in the 70s, and over nearly 20 years, was responsible for hundreds of children being adopted to the United States. When Mom and Dad failed to prove the income for a domestic adoption, a friend referred them to Abigail. I was the first of three Brazilians transplanted to Partway. The other two didn’t have the luck to be adopted at birth. Ana Luiza arrived at age 7, a mixed girl without a word of English. She’d never learned to trust adults, and at school, she was relegated to a special classroom. Ana Luiza scared the shit out of me, a shadow that had slipped through the portal and into my backyard, a reminder of how I got here. We only spoke 29 once a year, at annual gatherings of adoptive families. I taught her the names of cartoon characters; she taught me tongue twisters, babble I could never get right. Três tratos de trigo para três tigres tristes. Três tigres tristes para três tratos de trigo. When the potlucks ended, we returned to normal life at school, strangers. Rogélio arrived a few years later, at age 13, and quickly became Roger, the first black kid in Partway. He’d been taught traces of English at Esperança, and his accent was thick as pitch. Girls loved him. Teachers loved him. Soccer coaches loved him. I remember on weekends Roger would stand on the shoulder of Highway 97, waiting for semi-trucks to roar down the long straightaway through town. Someone had taught him how to signal with his arm for the drivers to blow their horns. He loved to hear it so much that word got around about him on the CB radios, and drivers would sound their horns a mile before the blinking yellow light, just to see Roger roll with delight. I grew up on a sheep farm a mile off the highway, only one other house--Gary’s place--visible from our property. Partway wasn’t called Partway for nothing. A onestoplight farm town between the mountains and the eastern flats, we were high desert, juniper trees and sagebrush, cinder rock and pumice. From our pastures we could glimpse the Cascade Mountains, seven icy peaks like white fangs on the horizon, source of blizzards, source of wilderness, deer and elk and coyotes, cougars that slipped through our barbed wire and left our sheep spilled red in the snow. Any desire beyond gas or milk required a drive to Bend, seventeen miles away. Bend was a resort town--skiing and golf and white water rafting, a playground for Californians, a world apart from the farm. Our bus ride to school was an hour, snoozing through starts and stops, heads rested on the seats in front of us so that we arrived with 30 dents in our foreheads. Partway only made the news once every two years, during our biennial infestation of Pandora Moths. Their larvae pupated in the soft pumice sand, only to surface the next year later with the wingspans of larks, swarming the fields, the roads, the houses, so that when they died off and dried out, their crispy remains littered our town. We were cursed, Partway kids, freaks from BFE. Daveison’s kombi rumbled up the cobblestone hills of Santa Teresa. He pulled to the shoulder, making way for a trolley car rattling downhill. Tourists dangled from the hand rails, aiming digital cameras at the downtown skyline. At last we came to a stop at a three way intersection where a Western Union, a Kentucky Fried Chicken, and a Dunkin’ Donuts were clumped together along a spritely new strip. There it is, meu mano, Daveison said, rolling down his window for a better look. He burped into his hand and launched into a ghost tour of the building: There’s where the gate used to be. Abigail kept a tray of strawberry candies for everyone who came home on time from school. The courtyard is where we had our futebol matches, except one time, we kicked the bola through the office window and Abigail didn’t let us play again for three days. Wait, no. The girls could still play. Three days felt like a lifetime, let me tell you. Speaking of the girls, have I ever mentioned Cristiani? Linda, linda, linda. Boys from school used to tie love letters to their kites and fly them over the wall for her. But she liked me best. We were going to get married, but then they found a home for her. Oh, if she wouldn’t have left, let me tell you, I would have-I was born in a Western Union, I said, gazing out the rain-dappled window. Daveison clasped his hand on the back of my neck until I met his eyes. Come on, meu mano, he said. You’ve got imagination, no? 31 That night after dinner, Gary and I ducked into an Internet café on Rua Bolivar, a dim, smoky joint that had no business calling itself a café. The place never seemed to serve any coffee, only cold cerveja and Guarana and baskets of fried shrimp, and all the keyboards and mice were coated in a thin layer of palm sweat and grease. But it was only 1 real for 15 minutes, so we sat. At the terminal beside me, a black dude wearing wire-rimmed glasses slurped a beer, uploading self-shot pictures of himself on a hotel bed with a young morena. Gary sat on my other side, prosthetic guiding the mouse, real hand gliding across the keyboard. As always, he navigated directly to the Partway Weekly Shopper, hungry for new from home. I cracked a beer and opened my inbox, the only new message a one-liner from Chuck Gasparino: Randolph, Freelance dollars don’t grow on trees. -CG. “Look at this shit,” Gary said, pointing to a slideshow of photos on his screen. Smoke pouring from the Cascade woodlands west of Partway. Flames engulfing banks of trees like a wild, burning wall. A herd of elk fleeing across the highway. “Close to town?” I asked. “Not yet.” The damp winter in Rio made it easy to forget the tinder-dry summer in Partway. I slipped on a headset to place a call to Dad. We hadn’t spoken in over a month, since the 32 night I announced I was headed down to Brazil. I listened to the ring tone, imagined a solitary bird perched on the line above our house in Partway, horizon blood-orange from the fires. Answering machine, Mom’s old greeting, a remnant from April, before her final relapse: Spring has sprung, and you’ve reached the Randolphs…She kept her spirits high, as if humor were the cure, even when people asked about her diagnosis. “I’m full of rotten eggs,” she would say. I hated that image. It recalled those old afternoons when Gary and I would steal eggs from our blind neighbor’s chicken coup, chuck them against juniper trees for shits and giggles, awestruck by the fertilized ones, gooey yellow halfchicks in the yolk. I ended the call and tried again; back in Partway, the sun would be setting, Dad would be coming in from the pastures. This was my betrayal: I’d left him to grieve alone. For eight years, he’d focused every free hour on Mom, and now that she was gone, he turned his attention to the repairs he’d neglected. I imagined him walking the property line, digging new post holes, straightening our crooked fences. This time he picked up the phone. Lambs bleated in the background. I pictured him standing at the black rotary phone in the barn, boots covered in manure and hay dust. “What’s going on with those fires?” I asked, voice delayed a few seconds, a few thousand miles. “Heat lightning is all,” he said. “They’ve got it under control.” From there we made the smallest of talk. Me: rainy weather, Gary’s having fun, haven’t filed an article yet. Dad: tractor acting up, killed two skunks the other day, business could be better. For twenty years, he’d worked as an independent contractor, specializing in fence work. Electric, barbed wire, aluminum, cedar--you name it, Mike 33 Randolph would get it built for a fair price. Except these days nobody wanted to pay a fair price. Without warning, he brought it up: “Any luck playing gumshoe?” “It’s a big city,” I said. “So is that a yes or a no?” “They tore down the old orphanage,” I said. “Twenty-five years is a long time.” “I know how long it is,” he said. “Listen, I’ve got to get these animals fed. Keep your head on straight.” The entire conversation lasted 10 minutes. When he hung up, I stared at the screen until my minutes at the terminal expired. “Some kid got his face bit by a hog at the county fair,” Gary said. “Let’s get out of here,” I said. We paid up and left. “How’s your dad doing?” “Fine,” I said. But I had no idea. We hadn’t spoken a word about Mom. I wondered if it made him feel better or worse taking care of those sheep. Our farm wasn’t much. Ten acres. Sixty-five ewes, four rams. Dad had no intention of breeding them now that Mom was gone, but he refused to sell them off. The barn was her sacred territory, the one place he couldn’t bear to clean out. A few days after the funeral, we packed up Mom’s closet, speechless, as if we were straining to hear her footsteps somewhere in the house. Dad slipped garments from their hangers, sealed them in boxes with absurd amounts of duct tape. When he left the room for more boxes, I climbed the stepladder, took down the old firebox. 34 Inside was a file folder of social security documents, account statements, Dad’s veteran status papers. Below all that was an unlabeled manila envelope. I opened it. A bundle of old documents, held together with a dry rubber band that snapped when I lifted it. A birth registry, faded Portuguese type. A Brazilian birth certificate, an ink stamp of tiny feet and palms. A burnt-orange envelope with an international stamp. “Don’t waste any time, do you?” Dad said. He stood in the doorway with a roll of tape in one hand, in the other, Mom’s wig. “She said--” But he’d already turned down the hall. I sat on the closet floor, examined the documents. The certificates smelled of smoke and dew. The postmark on the envelope showed it was sent just before my first birthday. Holding it lifted my heart rate. The story of my birth was one I had reassembled like a shattered urn, examining fragments, longing for connections. The history grew darker year by year. Mom’s retellings were alive with mysterious people and places--Abigail and Daveison, Casa de Esperança and Corcovado--a fairy tale with a foundling at the center. But one night when I was seven, I picked up the phone during one of her calls with Ana Luiza’s mother. The woman sobbed, said she’d given up. Ana Luiza was better off back in the orphanage, but now it was too late. Mom detected my breathing and told me to hang up. But over the years I heard other parents whisper stories at adoption agency potlucks, tales of courthouse confrontations, falsified documents, bribery at customs and immigration. I tried to make the pieces fit. Whenever Mom and Dad left for Irrigation District meetings, I sifted through an old box of 35 mm slides from Brazil. Holding each one to the lamp 35 light, I gazed back to 1981, my parents on a corner in the Centro, squinting in the sun. Western shirts and jeans, hair parted in the middle, youthful faces like masks. Who were these people? Vanessa and Michael Randolph. Twentysomethings from Partway, desperate for a child, any child. Each picture spawned questions, but the answers could only affirm what I already knew: This life wasn’t supposed to be mine. So instead of asking questions, I let my imagination tremble. There was ample time and space for dreaming-long morning rides to school, afternoons of barnyard chores, nights awake in the glow of the moon. The Brazil of my imagination swelled into a shadowland, its history always changing, its border stretching clear to Partway, and now this letter from Sonia Aúrajo, it buried that landscape in ash. I unfolded it carefully, paper weightless in my fingertips. The handwriting was large, each word a careful block. It began Meu Filho, it was signed Sonia Aúrajo. With my dusty Spanish, I could only decipher a few passages, but enough to summon the ghosts of my entire life. By the time I picked myself up from the closet floor, the light through the windows had dimmed. Outside, the sun spilled pink and gold along the peaks. The barn light was on. I slipped the letter in my pocket and found Dad at the lambing pens, a hose running in his hand. “Dad?” Ours was an untreatable wound, one neither of us had the courage to touch. Without Mom, I was the only one left to reassure him that blood didn’t matter. And now I was leaving. 36 He kept his eyes on the water trough, as if it might never be full again. His last words before I turned away: “Don’t forget. Some doors, once you open them, they can’t be closed.” Vanessa had miscarried three times--once on the tractor, once at a minor league baseball game, and once in the shower. In the aftermath, Michael would hold her like a broken bird, promise her that everything was going to be okay. A life without children was still a life together, and that’s what mattered. He couldn’t know that what stopped her from keeping a baby would someday kill her. He only knew that they shouldn’t try again. They had plenty to keep them busy. The farm. The house. Fishing, hunting, camping. They’d looked into adoption, but the questionnaires were minefields meant to stop people like them: no college diplomas, no steady W-2 income, no chance. But Michael saw the look on Vanessa’s face that year at Christmas, how she lingered near the coat rack, caressing the fabric of their little nephew’s snowsuit. So when she told him about this woman, Abigail Long, about this place, Casa something-or-other, the only word to say was yes. To afford it, he would have to build more fences, cut the prices on his bids, string barbed wire until his gloves wore out. He dropped out of bowling league and worked two night shifts at the lumberyard in Redmond; the employee discount saved 15 percent on supplies. Vanessa started babysitting a few nights a week, switched to grain and hay for the sheep, shopped for groceries at the canned food outlet. A nickel here, a dime 37 there. When Michael finally showed up for a pitcher of beer at the Rusty Skillet, the boys asked him what the fuck was going on. “It’s expensive,” Michael said, “but it’ll be worth it.” “Careful what you wish for,” a co-worker from the lumberyard warned: “Lotsa niggers down there. My wife raises one by mail, keeps his picture on the fridge. Sonofabitch costs me eight-ninety-five a month.” Before long Michael and Vanessa were seated in the offices of an adoption agency in Salem, flipping through a photo album of available children. Some had scars or blind eyes or bottle mouth teeth that made them look like baby alligators. The caseworker peppered the conversation with the words realistic, lengthy, and process. They borrowed--Michael hated to borrow--from family, friends, neighbors, even the postman, who left an $80 check in the mailbox. They booked a one-way flight and a small apartment in Rio de Janeiro. They hired a neighbor girl to water and feed the sheep. On February 26th, 1980, a frozen Portland morning, they departed; sixteen hours later, on a broiling summer night in Rio, they arrived. Casa de Esperança was only six blocks from the complex where Michael and Vanessa were renting, perched on a hill overlooking the city center. The orphanage looked like a miniature military barracks, surrounded by a cast-iron fence, courtyard littered with abandoned toys. In the lobby, they were greeted by a young man in a crisp yellow shirt. He introduced himself as Daveison and invited them to take a seat while he went to find Abigail. 38 Michael remained standing. On a corkboard near the front desk were dozens of newspaper articles tacked side-by-side with clumsy English translations. Depending on the paper, Abigail Long was perceived as an angel or a devil in Rio. Some praised her for providing a clean borning room for pregnant girls shamed and deserted by their families. Others said she encouraged turpitude by offering an easy solution to common whores. But each article seemed to conclude that at very least, Abigail was saving lives, finding homes for infants who might otherwise become fodder for dumpster dogs, for little ones who knew nothing but the bottom of a glue bottle, for street kids who would be exterminated by the police. Abigail’s children were the malqueridos--the unwanted. Now she entered the lobby, a woman in her fifties wearing an apron splotched with finger-paint. She launched into a conversation with Vanessa, about the flight, about their apartment, about the goings-on back in Partway. Michael half-listened, peering out the window to the courtyard where Daveison arranged a line of children on the soccer field. The children divided themselves by gender, and then Daveison sorted them by height, settling disputes with a snap of his fingers. Once they were in line, he passed hair ties to the girls and helped the boys slick back their hair with a dollop of grease and a small white comb. “They all have families waiting for them somewhere,” Abigail said, leading them to the courtyard. “The Lord has them chosen already.” This Abigail had the aura of a used car salesman, introducing each child by name as they walked the line. Michael avoided their large, wet eyes, touched the small of Vanessa’s back, careful not to let her linger too long on any one child. The smallest boys and girls leaned forward, listening 39 for their names. At the end of the line, a tiny black boy with a binky in his mouth scurried out of place, clutched Vanessa’s legs. “This is Rogélio,” Daveison said. “As you can see, he’s not very shy,” Abigail said. “A sweet little boy.” They left the children in the courtyard to play, retreating to Abigail’s office. At her desk, Abigail slipped on a pair of thick reading glasses, licked her forefinger, and flipped through their dossier. Behind those glasses, her eyes were icy blue beads. “We were promised an infant,” Vanessa blurted. “Well,” Abigail said. “Rogélio is only two years old.” “It’s not the same,” Michael said. “Mr. and Mrs. Randolph,” Abigail said. “You simply cannot be afraid of a visible difference.” “It’s not that we’re afraid,” Michael said. “What is it, then?” Abigail said, removing her glasses. Michael couldn’t find the words. He wasn’t afraid of the child, but for the child. Michael knew Partway, the slurs scrawled on the restroom walls. “It’s just we’ve been waiting for so long,” Vanessa said, “for a newborn.” “That’s not always possible,” Abigail said. “An adoption like that could take a considerable amount of waiting.” Waiting became a religion. Michael and Vanessa would wake early, and while it was still cool, sit in a café near the orphanage, sharing sweet bread, leafing through O Globo, brown coffee rings on the pages. Michael understood little of the language, but the pictures were enough, ceaseless images of robberies, homicides, bullet riddled busses. 40 An inventory of reasons to deliver a child from this fragile city. But there was beauty abound in Rio. Beaches and jungle lay just over the skyline. They still hadn’t visited the rainforest or the giant Christ statue. Michael coaxed Vanessa into a ride to the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain for sunset, sweet relief, but Vanessa feared they were missing a development, a phone call, a vital message. He wanted to make her face reality: there was a chance they could go home empty handed. On Easter weekend, when Abigail assured them she would be taking no calls, Michael convinced Vanessa that they needed to see that Brazil wasn’t just a country of offices and courtrooms. They took a bus from the Centro to Copacabana. With little money, they could only afford to stroll along the beaches, but at least it was a chance to put their swimwear to use. Mid-afternoon, as a reprieve from the sun, they walked the stinging-hot sidewalks to Ipanema. Here and there on the walkway were children asleep under palm leaves. Michael stepped around them, tried to focus on other foot traffic, a parade of women in string bikinis. “They’re certainly not shy,” Vanessa said, adjusting her one piece. “What do you mean?” “Don’t pretend you’re not looking.” Women of every shade passed by, slender and smiling, leaving wet footprints on the sidewalk as if they had just emerged from the sea, only to be polished by the sun. If they had a daughter, would she look something like this? That night, back in the cramped apartment, Michael flossed his teeth, squinted into the mirror at his slack, worrisome face. Vanessa stood beside the bed, shedding her 41 clothes. It seemed absurd that the two of them, so painfully ordinary, might one day have a daughter like one of those girls on the sidewalk. Michael slid into the rough sheets, and without speaking, without kissing, moved on top of her. Perhaps after a day on the beach it would be different, and for a moment it was, as if something in the sweaty, salty air had seeped into them, but their motion devolved to the habitual, absent of craving, practiced from years of trying to conceive. And now, closing his eyes, Michael tried to push back the thought that, for all the love they had, he and Vanessa had failed to complete that most simple and natural act. His mind wandered to that pageant of women on the Ipanema sidewalk, and as if Vanessa could sense that he was no longer with her, she told him to quit. “What do you mean?” “Just stop.” Michael rolled to her side, half-expecting a spider or lizard to drop from the ceiling onto his bare chest. “We made a mistake,” Vanessa said. “You say that now?” Michael snapped. “After two months? Now you decide--” “I don’t mean Brazil,” she said. “I mean going to the beach. What if Daveison needed us for something?” They dressed silently. Vanessa sat on a chair in the corner, chewing ice, rereading the pre-adopt guide, a chapter about reactive attachment disorder, the critical importance of bonding with a child at once. “It says I need to hold her to my skin,” she said. Michael watched her gaze out the window, holding her arms to her chest, as if pretending how to rock, how to cradle, how to breathe the child like a scent or a spirit. 42 He found a soccer game on TV, absentmindedly filled out the postcards he’d purchased from a vendor at the beach. Images of the sights they were supposed to be seeing. Tijuca Rainforest. Sugar Loaf Mountain. Corcovado. He scribbled notes to the folks back home--Rio is amazing! So much to see!--and left them on the nightstand for Vanessa to sign before bed. 43 My grandmother, who used to call me her Brazilian coffee bean, bought me a globe one year for Christmas. I remember spending hours with it on my bedroom floor, tracing snakes of rivers, bumps of mountain ranges, spinning the Earth wildly on its axis, stopping it with my fingertip. I imagined a life wherever I pointed. Port Harcourt, Nigeria. Kyoto, Japan. Honfluer, France. The randomness was intoxicating. Dots on the map, other lives. Portland was the only dot in Oregon, and I would touch my pinky finger there, and try to reach my thumb all the way to Rio de Janeiro, stretching across desert, sea, and jungle, my hand always too small. Not until high school could I finally connect the two cities with one hand, and by then, I’d decided on my future. I was going to get the fuck out of Partway. I was going to be a journalist. I was going to write about all those dots on the map. There were 20,000 students at the University of Oregon, twenty times more people than lived in our town. Gary settled for community college, so I arrived in Eugene friendless, but exhilarated. I took any assignment I could at The Emerald, fell asleep reading the AP style guide. But while my classmates took summer internships at Reuters and the AP bureaus, I lingered in Oregon as an intern for The Portland Pioneer, tethered to Partway. I travelled thousands of miles each month, a perpetual journey 44 across Mt. Hood, to the oncology ward at St. Charles. Always the same news to report: Mom was getting worse. Now after two years covering the courthouse for Chuck at The Pioneer, I finally had the chance to score a few international clips. I’d always believed in the high ideal of journalism, that reporting could take me closer to the heart of the world, but this morning I couldn’t even describe the breakfast table. Gary buttered a roll, pitching story ideas. “How about The Girls from Ipanema? You know, lots of bikini pictures.” “Cliché.” “Okay, so take one of those favela tours. I see those flyers everywhere. Drug dealers sell papers.” “Hack job,” I said. “Voyeurism for gringos.” “You’re writing for gringos, dumbass. That’s why they call it the Travel section.” He was right. Chuck would have printed either of those pieces in a heartbeat. But I was looking for a story that could harness the city, its verve and its heartbreak. I needed to hit the pavement, get a feel for my beat, but I was afraid to miss a call from Daveison. Stupid. He’d been clear: Arranging a meeting with Dom Ricardo might take a month. It hadn’t even been a week yet. When Gary left for soccer clinic, I lingered in the apartment flipping through The Brazil Reader and O Globo. I was too anxious to work, but diversion was for tourists, so I wasted my afternoon in the dim of an Internet café, researching for Dom Ricardo. 45 Daveison was right. Nothing much to find. No news briefs, no photos, no home address. Only a few financial statements with his signature at the bottom, a pair of smooth loops. I yearned for a glimpse of him. Early the next morning, I asked Gary if he wanted to take a ride to the Sociedade Comercial do Rio Novo. “So is this reporting, or personal shit?” “Both, I guess.” “I paid $899 for this camp, and I’ve only got two days left,” he said. “Come on. You can take pictures.” “Absolutely not,” Gary said. “They shoot journalists here, Pete. This is like one of those Choose Your Own Adventures where one of the options is the stupidest idea ever.” The downtown vendors were just lifting their shutters. At the corner of Rio Branco and São Jose, I gazed up at the smoky windows of the Sociedade Comercial do Rio Novo. In one of those offices sat Dom Ricardo Alfonso, perhaps pouring himself a cafézinho. I crossed the intersection in a huddle of businessmen clutching briefcases and smoothies, entered the building through revolving doors. Bom Dia Rio! droned on televisions in the lobby. The front desk was black marble, staffed by a young woman in a pink blouse who looked soft and damp like she’d just stepped out of the shower. I introduced myself as an American journalist assigned to write a feature about the company. These should be helpful, she said, handing me an assortment of glossy brochures. 46 I was hoping to see Dom Ricardo Alfonso, I said. Could I make an appointment? I’m afraid our financial officers don’t grant interviews. I sifted through the brochures. I don’t see any information about your board members, I said. Maybe you have some biographical notes? Photos? This is a privately held corporation, Mr. Randolph. I’m afraid the literature here is the most I can offer. I sat on a leather chair in the lobby and perused the materials. Formed in the mid80s, in the first years after the dictatorship, the Sociedade grew into an industrial juggernaut, commanded by former generals, judges, and bankers. Its business was concentrated in Rio de Janeiro state, and spread across four divisions: media, construction, transportation, and investments. The brochures highlighted development projects for the upcoming Pan-American games. Plans to expand 54 kilometers of Metro line, to install 621 chemical toilets along Copacabana and Ipanema beaches, to launch an 18-month sexual health campaign in the hillside communities. The crown jewel was a clean-up of the Guanabara watershed, spearheaded by a group called Guardiões da Baía-Guardians of the Bay. The pamphlet featured computer generated images of heavy equipment dredging silt deposits. Photographs of elementary school children planting new mangroves. A portrait of a smiling man in a green jumpsuit, using a long fishing net to scoop a plastic bottle from the crystal waters. Muito obrigado, I told the secretary on my way out. You’ve been a big help. Guardiões da Baía. Not quite the sex appeal of beach volleyball, but Chuck always had a hard-on for the environmental angle. 47 A kombi to the port district. Beside me in the back seat, dockworkers in coveralls, hardhats in their laps, debating whether Ronaldinho would choke in the big weekend match against Australia. Out the window, a supertanker navigated the mouth of the bay, leaving fishing boats bobbing in its wake. Along the pier, dozens of container ships were docked, cranes transferring cargo. Overhead, freeway traffic merged onto a bridge to the International Airport. I showed my brochure to the kombi driver’s assistant, offered him ten reals to drop me off near any of those projects. The man flipped through the pages and stopped at the picture of the worker fishing out a plastic bottle with a net. This guy is on our route, he said. We followed the portside road along shore, through an industrial park, past a nauseating sewage treatment plant, and then inland alongside a canal flanked by shanties and abandoned fishing boats. The kombi driver skidded to a stop in the shade of the freeway overpass and let me out near the muddy bank. A string of buoys crossed the murky water, a floating net. A dam of trash spanned shore to shore: mattresses, car parts, diapers, sheet metal, clothing, thousands of bottles and cans. A white vulture stood on a tire, pecking at an unrecognizable carcass. The stench of human sludge lifted my stomach to my throat. A man in a green jumper paddled along the water in a dinky rubber raft, spearing pieces of trash and dropping them into buckets at his side. Oi! I called out to him. In the rush of traffic overhead, he didn’t seem to hear me. Holding my nose, I plucked the arm of a plastic doll from the muck along shore. I flung it over the water, and it plopped near the man’s raft, startling the vulture. The man removed the cap from 48 his head, wiped his brow, and looked around. I waved. He paddled through oily rainbows to where I stood waiting. Am I in trouble? he asked. No, I said. I’m a reporter. I’ve got nothing to say. This is you, right? I asked, showing him the brochure. Sem. Where was this picture taken? We collect more than 1,000 kilograms of waste each week, he said, echoing his quote in the literature. We? I asked. Is there anyone else out here? Just me, he said, swatting a fly from his nose. New waves of trash floated down the canal and merged with the glittering dam. Where do you live? I asked. Alla, he said, gesturing up the canal, a long row of shanties. With the cash in my pocket, I could get this man to write me a song about the Guardiões da Baía. But I wasn’t looking to get anyone fired. Thank you for your time, I said. He pushed off shore and paddled back out to work. Standing on the bank, I snapped a few pictures: the trash dam, the trail of scum trickling through the net toward the bay, the tankers looming in the distance. In the shade of the underpass sat a lunch box and a collection net that must have belonged to the man. I unlatched the box, slipped a twenty real bill inside, and walked back to the main road for a kombi. 49 Back at the Sociedade, the woman behind the black marble desk was busy answering phones. I showed her the images on the tiny camera screen. Remind them that I’m from an American newspaper, I said. Please take a seat, she said, and placed a call. I waited in a comfortable leather chair, watching a television overhead. A man in a crisp blue suit stood on a stock market trading floor, recapping the morning surge in the BOVESPA. Now a primly dressed young executive strolled across the lobby with a clipboard in her hand. “Mr. Randolph,” she said in impeccable English. “Our Chief of Public Affairs would like to meet with you this evening. If you write down your address, he’ll send a car for you at seven o’clock.” That evening, a charcoal-colored town car pulled up to our apartment building at seven sharp. The driver shuttled me directly to Leblon, a sheik enclave of luxury condominiums, designer boutiques, gelato shops, bookstores, and pet groomers. On the corners, private school kids in designer jeans wore sunglasses even at this dim hour. Performance cars lined the streets, guarded by valets in red and gold uniforms. Leblon was a forgetting zone, too posh for all but celebrity tourists, a haven for wealthy South Americans impervious to the struggles of the continent, as if history had skipped right over them. Dom Manuel Gilberto waited for me at the center table of the Sushi Leblon, a blue-glass enclosure decked out in fish tanks and aquatic lighting. A blond, blue-eyed man in his forties, he stood to shake my hand, smiling, veneers like horse teeth. A bottle of sake arrived at our table; he sent it back to be warmed a bit more. 50 Dom Manuel, I said, opening my notepad. Tell me about yourself. “Please,” he said. “Call me Manny. And while I admire your Portuguese, I think it’s best that we speak in English, for accuracy’s sake.” “Whichever you prefer,” I said. We picked our way through plates of sushi. Manny delivered a diatribe about the Sociedade’s commitment to “rehabilitating” the city. He glanced at my notepad as I wrote, and when I caught him looking, he turned his attention to the fish tank behind me, bright fish like gold coins. “This is about more than planting trees and passing out condoms,” he said. “It’s about access to the 21st century. Wheelchair access in the Metro, Internet access in the plazas, student loan access for those who seek better futures.” “Sounds costly,” I said. “The price of progress,” he said. “This is a generational opportunity. For too long, our attention here in Rio has been focused on the lower end of our social spectrum.” “The favelas--” “--Hillside communities,” he said. “The favelado mentality is damaging. It’s become something of an industry here. Surely you’ve seen the tours, making theme parks of our slums.” These tours were advertised at every hostel and Internet café in the Zona Sul. Twenty bucks for a van ride up into the hills, a guided tour of the bairro, capped with an evening at a Real Favela Funk Party! Some companies spread awareness by taking visitors to community centers, clinics, and schools. Most offered gringos the chance to 51 get off on their City of God fetish--photos ops with AK-47s and bags of coke--inspired by a hit movie about the slums of the late 70s, right around the time I was born. “If the prefeitura is so intent on embracing the hillside communities, how come the city council wants to build walls around them?” “That’s a separate issue,” Manny said, “an environmental issue. Substandard housing is penetrating the jungle. We need to contain these developments until permanent solutions can be found.” “If the environment is the issue, why not build a waste infrastructure, instead of picking it up later with nets?” Manny put his elbows on the table and interlocked his hands. “To an outsider, these issues can seem, how do you say, cut and dry. Trust me when I tell you that the situation here is more complex than it looks on the surface.” He signaled for the check. “It seems a pity to talk business after such a wonderful meal. I hope to show you a bit more of what Rio has to offer. Are you a betting man?” Shaky ground for a journalist--accepting free meals, drinking and gambling with interview subjects, but perhaps a chance to get closer to Dom Ricardo. The town car drove us to the Hipódromo da Gávea, a gigantic equestrian facility at the edge of a university neighborhood. Older than Churchill Downs, its floodlights were visible from across the city. The blood red track was flanked by grandstands, segregated into lower tiers, second tiers, and a luxury lounge. We rode the elevator to the top floor. A doorman greeted us as we entered. We took a seat at the bar. Manny introduced me to the bartender as an American journalist, and ordered a round of Johnny Walker. Thumbing through the race booklet, 52 he noted his selections for the night’s first race. I shadowed Manny on a few small bets-nothing that would break my already fragile bank. Back in Partway, my Uncle Rob was perpetually bankrupt thanks to the casino out in Ka-Nee-Ta, and Dad always referenced him up as a cautionary tale. Besides, Manny was shitty at picking horses. By the sixth race, he hadn’t chosen a single winner, and after four more Johnny Walkers, his English had lost its polish. My system isn’t working tonight, he said, slurring in Portuguese now. Do you know how my system works? How? How my system works is I read the names of all the horses. Every single name. Then I pick the name that sounds like a good name for a penis. I reviewed his selections for the night--Gato del Sol, Grindstone, Strike the Gold, Ferdinand. Maybe it’s just not working tonight, I said. Do you come here often? Three nights a week, he said. Not usually by myself. Usually with the guys from work. But lately I’ve been losing on the weekends so I’ve got to win it back during the week. How well do you know Dom Ricardo Alfonso? I asked. How do you know Ricky? I don’t, I said. I’m just curious. He’s a family man, Manny said. He comes only now and then. Usually he’s got plans with his son and daughter. He has children? How old are they? 53 I’ve said too much already, Manny said. He’s a very private man. He doesn’t like his name in the papers. Why not? We are off the record, no? he said, peering into his empty glass. I mean, that’s a lot of Johnny Walker, no? Com certeza! Ricky is thinking about a run for mayor, he said. Best to keep a low profile until then. In Rio politics, the less people know, the better. I see. He’ll make a good mayor. Beautiful wife. Very lucky at the race track. The man knows how to pick a horse. Why do you ask all this? No reason. The sixth race ended in a photo finish, and when the results came in, Manny signaled for the check and stumbled away to take a piss. On the ride back to the apartment, he leaned his skull against the headrest. At a stoplight on Rua São Clemente, he rolled down the window and pointed up to a dark hillside. Bright dashes of tracer rounds, chains of bullets searing across the black. Now listen close, he said, index finger to his lips. Hear the little guns? Those tiny pops? Those are the police. Gary snored on the couch, ice packs around his ankles. Under the light of the breakfast table, I sat with my notebook. Tonight, the mountaintops were shrouded in sea- 54 mist so that all that was visible of Cristo Redentor was his two outstretched palms glowing in the spotlights. From this furnished apartment, with its security guard, its microwave, its ice maker, who was I to write about this city? The bustling ports and grim docks, container ships and tankers clogging the bay. Copacabana and Ipanema, the perpetual weekend, gringos washed up on the sand like white fish, ATM cards lodged in their gills. A world of visitors, Chinese, Chilean, and Canadian, thrilled by the surf, annoyed by the beggars. Thousands of Americans and Brits, shitfaced by noon, reading guidebooks upside down. The sun sinks. Clubs burn neon. Lovers for hire lean on jukeboxes. This city could not be contained in a travel section. Condos with glass-shard flecked walls. Claustrophobic hillsides, guarded by teens with grenades. Art deco apartments and manic streets. Those on television, those in the shadows. Busses and kombis, passengers counting centavos for the cobradors, slumped into seats for the long ride home. Dog walkers bagging handfuls of poodle shit. Janitors and yoga instructors. Those who work, those who work out. Priests, nuns, choir boys. Flamengo fans, Botafogo fans, Vaca fans, Fluminense fans. Cigarette vendors opening fresh cartons, Copa highlights on the radio. Florists sitting on flower crates, clipping bouquets of lilies, waiting for newlyweds on night-walks home. Those who pray, those who cannot sleep. I was trying to bridge an impossible gap. Brazil 1981, Brazil 2006. South American blunder-state, emerging market wunderkind. I was born in the twilight of a military regime, on the rubble of an economic collapse. Now there were powers eager to 55 wipe that era from memory. To a man like Dom Ricardo Alfonso, I was a smudge on an otherwise clean window. 56 Hang gliders circled the mountains around Rio like pre-historic butterflies. Whenever Gary saw one, he would stare slack-jawed until the pilot caught a thermal toward the sea and out of sight. “I have to try that,” he would say. I’d known Gary long enough to understand that if he said he had to try something, it meant he never would: Picking up a starfish at the Oregon Coast Aquarium; skateboarding; going to a college outside of Central Oregon; nigiri sushi; teaching at a high school outside of Central Oregon; online dating--Gary was a vessel of unrealized wishes. It wasn’t that he lacked courage. He could be fierce within his comfort zone, but that zone was Partway, Oregon, plus a few neighboring counties where his soccer team travelled for games. So on Gary’s last morning in Rio, when I caught him gawking at a hang glider for the seven-hundredth time, I dragged him to the peak of Pedra Bonita, a 1,500 foot granite slab overlooking the Floresta Tijuca and the beaches of the Zona Sul. Half a dozen rainbow colored gliders rested like giant kites near the cliff edge. A crowd gathered near a makeshift snack bar, sipping caiparinhas, cameras ready. “I thought you hated tourist traps.” Gary said. 57 “This is a time honored sport in Brazil,” I said. On deck was a Japanese dude set to fly tandem with a young Bahian pilot. Together they perched on the launch station, a wooden ramp slick from last night’s rain. On the count of three, they ran down the ramp, off the cliff. The Japanese guy shrieked, kicking his legs like a swimmer as they swept over the forest. No thank you. The only thing worse than a tourist trap was an extreme tourist trap. Gary was getting flustered with the straps on his kneepads. I knelt down and cinched them tight. He unfastened his prosthetic. “Lose that, I’ll kill you.” His pilot sauntered over and patted him on the back. “You okay, my buddy?” “Fuck yeah,” Gary said. The pilot turned to me: Your friend looks ready to upchuck. “What’d he say?” Gary said. “He says you look like a natural.” I’d never seen Gary this freaked out. Heights never fazed him. Back in Partway, we used to swim in a river with a 40 foot cliff along its bank. Gary would dive off like an acrobat. Now he circled his blue and yellow glider, checking the tension of the bracing cable. “Look at this shit,” he said. A section of the fiberglass skin was patched with duct tape. “Huge, huge red flag.” “I wouldn’t sweat it,” I said. “If there’s a problem, the pilot dies, too." “Don’t be naive,” he said. “One of the girls at scrimmage warned me about this. This Australian lady was on a tandem flight, and one of the wings tore apart in the wind. 58 The pilot needed to drop weight fast, so he whipped out his pocket knife and cut her loose.” “He probably figured it was better to save one life.” “Are you kidding? The pilot spiraled into a mountain. Probably this mountain.” At the snack bar, a frat boy and his pilot took shots of cachaça with lime, posing for the cameras. Satisfied, they slipped into their nylon body bags and stepped onto the ramp. “See?” I said. “If it was so unsafe, would they be drinking beforehand?” The assistant circled the glider on deck. He double-checked the connections and tugged on the frat boy’s clip-in latch, which popped off in his hand. Espere espere espere! he called out. The kid at the snack bar dug around his backpack for a new clip and tossed it to the assistant. “Fuck this,” Gary said. “Give me back my hand.” We took the next kombi downhill. Gary slumped against the window, watching the gliders arc over the city. Part of me was glad to see him headed back to Partway. No more English, no more tourist traps. The real city would open up to me. “Don’t tell anyone I pussed out,” he said. “No worries. I won’t even mention we were up here.” That afternoon at the Internet café, Gary confirmed his flight and itinerary. My mailbox contained a single email from Chuck: Travel, not politics! Managed to salvage sushi, etc. Best, Gasparino. I checked the Pioneer Online. My feature had been boiled 59 down to a 250 word capsule about Leblon, practically ad copy. Treat Yourself to Rio’s Best! Back at the apartment, I collapsed on the couch in a stupor. “Fuck it, Gary said, stuffing his duffel bag with 15 Flamengo jerseys, gifts for the kids on his team. “Newspapers are written at what--a tenth grade level?” “Sixth grade,” I said. Outside the window, the sun sank away, city lights alive on the surface of the Lagoa. “So your article was too complex for a sixth grader,” he said. “Take it as a compliment.” Gary double-checked his bags and zipped them tight. We had one last meal at the kilograma on Avenida Isabel, one last competition to see who could eat the most. Gary won, as usual, devouring 1.42 kilograms of steak, potatoes, and beans. At a nearby table, a family ate in silence, attention divided between two TVs--a preview of tomorrow night’s match against Australia, and a soap opera called América. We leaned back in our chairs to digest. “So how much longer are you going to stay?” Gary asked. “Depends if Chuck keeps lopping off my column inches.” “What about your Dad?” “He’s fine.” “He’s all alone.” “I deserve to have some fun down here.” “But you’re not,” Gary said. “You walk around Rio like it’s a crime scene.” Our last two weeks had been two different trips. His, a summer vacation. Mine, a failed attempt to prove that I belonged. My mangled article proved it. I was looking at 60 this city through the wrong lens. I’d drug Gary down here on the biggest trip of his life, only to mope around like a dweeb. “We’ve got a few hours left,” I said. “Let’s go to Lapa.” “The guidebook says it’s not--” “Fuck the guidebook. All you’ve done is hang out with Americans. You haven’t even danced samba.” “I did the other night.” “The jukebox at Shenanigans doesn’t count.” “Maybe if you would have asked last night,” he said, chewing ice from his water glass. “I have to catch a cab at like 5 a.m. Summer school starts Monday. I’ve to do lesson plans and shit.” “Lesson plans?” I said. “Gary, look at me. You’re going to spend the next nine weeks teaching kids how to make birdhouses.” He glanced at the clock on the wall: 10:00 p.m. I had him. Downtown lights jaundiced the Roman arches of Largo de Lapa. The square brimmed with drunks stumbling among food and liquor vendors, restlessly waiting at the doors of pastel colonials, now renovated into dance halls. Traffic stalled on the palmlined avenue, radios bumping, revelers hungry for dance. The hot air pulsed: hip hop beats and samba standards, Roland 808s and tribal drums, turntables and cauaquinhos, Les Pauls and laughing cuícas, slant rhymes and sultry refrains, five generations of music set ablaze, fueled by cachaça and lime. 61 Gary struggled to slip through the sweaty crowd, excusing himself for every bumped elbow. “Okay, we saw it,” he said. A transvestite in carnival costume weaved past with a tray of shots. I stopped her. She winked and watched us down the liquor. Two more, I said. “We’re not going to be here that long,” Gary said. “That’s why we have to drink fast,” I said, handing him a second shot. We followed the herd along the cobblestone streets, an endless procession of booty and tits. A woman’s voice drew us up a narrow flight of stairs and into a packed ballroom, dance floor drenched in red light. On stage, a six-piece samba band, a raven haired beauty on one knee, enchanting the crowd. We made a beeline for the bar, ordered another round. Gary was loosening up. I was beginning to forget about the hacked up article, envisioning Chuck Gasparino sneaking a cigarette in the men’s room, cold and lonely, waiting to put that next morning’s edition to bed. I raised my shot: “To travel.” “I have to talk to one of these girls,” Gary said. But every woman was dancing with a man, and those who weren’t were dancing in with girlfriends, tight rings of ass that could only be admired from a distance. We leaned against the bar, drinking without hope. The musicians jammed their way through a set of standards. The crowd sang in beautiful unison, O Coraçon Latino, anthems memorized in childhood. Not a single word was familiar. I could learn these lyrics, but I would never know these songs. “Let’s get out of here,” I said. And here’s where things get hazy. 62 The crowd on the street had swelled. I remember a drink mixed with condensed milk, and another drink, the color green. Gary lost twenty reals in a shell game under the arches. I called him an asshole and gave twenty reals to a little girl and her mother who sat on a fire hydrant, selling Lifesavers and cigarettes. I remember being approached by two girls--a platinum blonde and a brunette-wearing spaghetti straps and jeans so tight it looked like they’d been spray-painted on. Vocês Americanos? they asked. “Yes,” Gary said. “Americanos.” “Fuck George Bush!” they said in tandem, laughing. I don’t remember their names. The four of us shared a joint on the dewy lawn, overlooking the square, street kids squeezing through the crowd, hands out for spare change. Gary pinched the joint to his lips, wasted, not bothering to hide his prosthetic anymore. This is my friend’s last night in Rio, I said. He’s never danced samba. Samba is beautiful, the brunette said, but that’s my parents’ music. We should go dance hippe hoppe. “What’d she say?” Gary asked. “They want to go dance.” “Sure!” Gary said. “So you want go on date?” the blonde asked. Her hair shimmered and her contact lenses made watery sapphires of her eyes. 63 “What?” Gary asked. “You want date with us?” she asked again. Only then did I realize they wanted us to pay. I’m sorry, I said. We misunderstood. Assholes, the brunette said. You still owe us for the weed, the blonde said. We didn’t realize, I stammered, pulling Gary up from the grass. “Let’s go.” “Fuckholes!” the girls called out as we walked away. “They were so nice to us,” Gary said. “Let’s forget that even happened.” It was Gary who marked us. Without him, I could blend in. I wouldn’t be speaking English half the time. I could learn to hide my accent. I would be a magnet for prostitutes. When my dream woman asked where I was from, I could say Carioca de gema. We ducked into a back alley, took leaks alongside two dozen other men, urine trickling along the brick wall. Gary asked another American for the time. The dude showed his watch. “Fuck it’s almost four,” Gary said. Staggering out to the arches, he searched for a free taxi among the line of cabs. “I knew this was a stupid idea.” The clubs expelled hoards of hungry dancers, roaming the food stands that clouded the square with meaty-smoke. Every cab was taken. 64 “A kombi is just as fast,” I said. “I’m going to miss my flight.” “Quit being a pussy for once,” I said. A kombi squeezed along the curb, a sign for LAGOA on its dash. The van was packed with Brazilian college kids, laughing, smoking, making out. Bright ovals of streetlights panned across the windows. On the corners, women in lingerie waited for tricks. Traffic was light. We were making good time, until police lights flared behind us. The other passengers fell silent. A transit cruiser pulled alongside in a blue and white compact that looked like it could barely support the weight of the top lights. Two officers stepped out, one with the build of a featherweight boxer, the other one so heavy it was unfathomable how he’d squeezed into his bullet proof vest. Big Boy yanked the sliding door open. Out, he said. “What did we do?” Gary asked. “Keep your mouth shut,” I said. The officers ordered us to place our hands on the hood of the car. They exchanged a few words with the kombi driver. The college kids in the van looked away, except for one girl in the back seat who gazed at us, smiling. The kombi sped away, coughing exhaust. Excuse me, I asked. What were we doing wrong? 65 Oi! Big Boy called to his partner. Este fala Português. Que esperto, the other said. Big Boy slipped cuffs on my wrist and skull steered me into the cramped back seat. Through the window I watched the other officer try to handcuff Gary. When he tugged Gary’s prosthetic, it slipped off and fell to the sidewalk. Gary looked at me through the rear window, panicked. The officer pushed him into the back seat, handcuffed his left wrist to his right ankle. Featherweight took the wheel. Big Boy sat shotgun, sinking the car on its axels. Vamos. An empty, brightly lit avenue. Big Boy held Gary’s hand up to the window, examining it in the street glow. “Please, please be careful with that…” Gary said. Your friend is noisy, Big Boy said. Could you give that back, I asked. It’s really important to him. Oh sure, Big Boy said, turning around. He held the hand out to Gary like he wanted to shake. When Gary reached he pulled it back. Junior high revisited. The driver parked half-a-block down from a Western Union. An ATM glowed like a box of gold on the corner. A thousand, and we give you a ride home, Big Boy said. Any less, we let you walk. And believe me, we can drive you far away from here. 66 Back at the apartment, Gary washed his hand in the sink, inspected it under the stove light. The sunrise turned the mountainsides burnt yellow. “You can still catch your plane,” I said. He fastened his hand and gathered his bags. “We’re still alive right? If you think about it, that was actually a good price--” “Really? Did you read that in your book?” He wouldn’t let me help him carry bags downstairs. I followed him down to the curb. We waited for a taxi to pass. “Gary, I’ll make this right.” “You think you know everything.” “I’ll pay you back.” “Sure you will,” he said, climbing into his cab. I watched the taxi merge with the morning traffic, taillights like two red eyes roving around the lagoon. Hung-over, I fell into bed. At midday I woke, ripe with shame and citrus bile. I left a message on Daveison’s machine--I’ll be in touch again soon. Dad had warned me: Some doors, once you open them, they can’t be closed. I pitched The Brazil Reader in the vomit-splattered wastebasket. I stuffed my backpack, caught a bus to the airport, soothing my head on the cold glass as we crossed the bridge over Guanabara Bay. The passengers sat still in their seats, as if paralyzed, ears tuned to the Australia match crackling over the P.A. When Fred scored a goal in the 90th minute, the bus erupted into cheering that split my head like a melon. The driver steered us to the shoulder, paused there to listen to the instant replay. 67 We arrived at the airport at sunset. The staff behind the counter buzzed about the victory, 2-0, one step closer to the sixth championship, and Ronaldinho hadn’t even woken up yet! The woman at the ticket counter swiped my American Express. She inspected my passport, pausing at Place of Birth, and double-checking my face against the photograph. In this country I was born, in this country I was lost. Bom viagem, she said, handing over my boarding pass. “Thank you,” I said, then caught myself: Obrigado. 68 PART TWO 69 Manaus, jungle metropolis, echo of the rubber boom. In the city center, Japanese businessmen clustered at corner bars, pecking at laptops and sipping frosty beers. Tourists stalked the perimeter of the Teatro Amazonas--once great opera house of South America--striving to photograph the neo-classical enormity in a single frame. Boys and girls in Catholic school uniforms ambled across the plaza, glued to their cell phones. I’d flown here to glimpse the source waters of the Amazon, but so far there was no water to be seen. The muggy air was thick with mosquitoes buzzing like dentist drills. On every block travel guides offering trips along the river and its many creeks, kiosks plastered with photos of tourists holding toucans, lounging in elaborate tree huts equipped with foosball tables, sensual massage, and AMERICAN STYLE BANEIROS! Amazonas was accustomed to outsiders. For six generations, gringos had arrived hungry for the interior, except these days, instead of taking rubber sap, they snapped pictures with parrots on their shoulders, they fed mice to bright yellow snakes, they slunk into alleyways for snips of jaguar pelt. Chuck wanted a travel story, and this time I had to give him what he wanted. I’d been coasting on American Express, and thanks to the upstanding lawmen of Rio de Janeiro, I was only a few swipes from my limit. I promised Gary I’d pay back his half of 70 our bribe. On top of that, if Daveison led me to Dom Ricardo, I owed him the rest of his fee. I needed to sell a fucking article. But I wanted to report on the real jungle, not a luxury tree house with bidets in the bathroom. A few blocks off Rua Dez de Julio, I found a guide operating from what looked like a walk-in closet. He wore a thick pair of glasses with the left lens cracked down the middle. No brochures, no photos, no English. On a laminated map, he drew the route of his tour with a dry erase pen, tracing a path in red ink from a nearby port to a campsite in the middle of the map. Are we talking about the real jungle? I asked. Isso, he said. He licked his fingertip and smudged away the original route, drew a new one along the broad Rio Solimões, clear onto the reverse side of the map, down a few curvy, watery detours, and to another spot in the heart of the interior. Rio Espelho, he said, giving me thumbs up. Jungle muito bom, muito bonito. He pointed me to the marketplace where I bought a green and yellow hammock. That night I rented an eight dollar hotel and used the sink to soak my clothes in DEET. After three weeks of downing malaria pills, I could finally swallow them down knowing they’d be put to good use. Danger. Fuck yeah. I couldn’t sleep. The Brazilian-American journalist on assignment surrendered to the farm boy playing Indiana Jones in the woods. Dawn arrived smoky gray, clouds so low it seemed possible to slit them open with the flick of a knife. The no-brochure man waited outside on his moped. Sputtering past 71 taxis and tour busses, we cruised along the river, banks lined with factories, water slick with waste. On the docks, women in baggy shirts weaved through the crowd, offering beer, nuts, shrimp on a stick. My boat departed at noon, O Palacío, a diesel powered vessel some 150 feet long and 30 feet wide, Brazilian flag flapping wildly from an aluminum pole. There were four decks in total, connected on the starboard side by a narrow stairwell of metal grate steps. The top deck featured single-bed cabins, an open air restaurant and bar, Christmas bulbs hanging over plastic table sets. The two decks below that were for passengers who knotted their hammocks on steel support bars on the ceiling. The lowest deck was a tenth of the price on account of engine noise and the constant waves slapping the hull. A boat like this was the Greyhound Bus of the Amazon, some passengers boarding for a seven day, 1000 km trip to Belem, but according to the no-brochure man, I would only be riding for a few hours. He handed me a first class ticket. Now you relax and enjoy, he said. On this boat you can find sandwiches and rum and your last real toilet. I don’t need first class, I said. Cleaner, safer, he said. No extra charge to you. I only ask one favor. He handed me a leather satchel. Give this to your guide. I can trust you on this, no? Com certeza, I said, tucking the satchel into my pack--a mission. I joined the line of passengers waiting to board, luggage and hammocks in hand. Atop the gangplank I turned to see no-brochure man pointing toward the top deck. When he turned away I took the stairs down to steerage and found a place among the dozens of 72 people securing hammocks to the overhead rails. My neighbors gave me puzzled looks. To my left, a middle-aged woman sagged in her hammock, cracking nuts in the palm of her hand. To my right was a man about my age. Como vai? I asked. Expressionless, he knotted his hammock as if fashioning a gallows. As the crew made final preparations, I tried to spark a conversation with the woman. I explained that I was born in Brazil, that I was traveling the country para encontrar meus origens. Você Brasileiro? she asked. Paraces Americano, said the man beside me. Pues, Bem-vindo à casa! the woman said. Welcome home indeed. O Palacío’s engines roared to life. We ferried out of the harbor, past the Toyota Motors plant, past the cargo ships, across the meeting of the waters, where the dark Rio Negro converged with the brown Rio Solimões, merging into a wide open channel. The development thinned from cityscape to village life, school children running along the banks, waving, rolling with laughter when the captain blew the ship’s horn. The gallows man glared, pointed up at my hammock knot and called out some slang I could not understand. Everyone within earshot chuckled. I kept to myself, watching the riverbank drift past. A Brazilian flag hung from nearly every hut, the fruit of a decade long effort to nationalize the vast interior, roads and telegraphs and radio to a population that had never heard the country’s anthem. I was leaning again on my old crutch, The Brazil Reader, unable to shovel that horseshit from my mind. 73 Sun glinted off the slow-churning water. The conversation nearby shifted to Thursday night’s big match against Japan. The gallows man turned to me, a tenuous offer to join the conversation. Eu sou um fã de Ronaldinho, I said, dropping the name of the only player I knew anything about. Ronaldinho pode ir pa’ no inferno, the gallows man said. Podemos ganhar sem ele. The other men on the boat grumbled in agreement--Ronaldinho can go to hell! We’ll win without him! Tucking myself deeper into the hammock, I shut my trap. Now only a few thatch huts lined the riverbank. Hearing our approach, children in small wooden canoes paddled toward the ship, calling for handouts. Suddenly it rained beer cans and bags of chips. I rolled out of my hammock and leaned over the rail. On the top deck, passengers snapped pictures of the children hurrying toward the snacks. On the starboard side a woman and her young son paddled directly into our path so that it seemed we might capsize them. As we sped past, the boy tossed a rope onto the lower deck. The gallows man tied off the rope, and in an instant it drew taut, the canoe skimming alongside our hull. The boy’s mother tied several plastic bags to his arms. He walked the towline like a high wire, arms outstretched, bags dangling, until two women received him on our end, the bags overflowed with fresh fish and dried shrimp and nuts. In the canoe, his mother waited patiently, wavelets spraying her hair. Within minutes the boy was sold out. He wrapped his coins in a plastic bag, clutched his profits in his fist. The men helped him unfasten the towline, and as the knot 74 slipped open, his mother drifted away, bobbing our wake. The boy climbed over the portside railing. I hurried over, afraid he might drown in the churn. De onde voce é? he asked, narrowing his eyes at me. Estados Unidos, I said. Que bufo! he said, giggling. He front flipped into the water, surfaced a moment later, and swam quick strokes toward his mother. I returned to my hammock. The woman at my side offered me a large brown nut, watched with great interest to see if I could crack it. No luck. She plucked it from my palm and cracked it for me. Laughter from the other passengers. In stringing my hammock down here, I’d committed some trespass. Fuck the The Brazil Reader. I could jabber on about state-building and positivism, but I couldn’t crack a fucking nut. I endured their taunts until at last we approached my stop, a dock on the shore ahead. My hammock strings had tightened into an impossible knot. The gallows man let me struggle a few minutes before standing to help me. Boa sorte, meu mano, he said, untying the note with a flick of his wrist. He gave me thumbs up. I thumbs-upped him back and deboarded. Waiting on the dock was a sun-spotted fisherman with a white paper sign that read RANDALF. He ferried me to the opposite bank. The motorboat was too loud for speech, and I was thankful to be saved from my own stupid mouth. Noontime sun sparked on the cool waters. O Palacío drifted away. Across the river was a tackle shop 75 where I was told to wait for a blue kombi. The fisherman motored away, trickle of engine oil in his wake. For thirty minutes, I stood there without seeing a single vehicle. The woman at the tackle shop regarded me like a familiar tree. If this tour was a scam, I was utterly fucked. I bought a pack of cigarettes. I hadn’t had a cigarette since the week of Mom’s death. Smell of smoke, pangs of broken promises. She’d always planned for us to return to Brazil together. Afraid to disappoint her, I’d reluctantly promised. But plans always turned into plans for next year. Mom was getting tired--down in the dumps, she called it. Tests. Treatments. Next year’s plans turned into someday soon. Secretly, I was thankful. I wanted to see the country for myself, without her stories in my ear. What I didn’t know then was that someday soon, she would be down in the dumps, and she wouldn’t get back up again. 76 At last a blue kombi rattled up the red dirt road, piloted by a kid who looked about ten, a cigarette dangling from his lips. When I climbed aboard he stole a glance at the satchel the tour organizer had given me, as if secrets were kept inside. Without introductions, he hit the gas. A chain smoker, he drove with one hand on the wheel, the other fiddling with the dashboard tape deck, a Tupac compilation. Noticing I dug the music, he beamed with a satisfaction that can only be achieved by a pre-adolescent simultaneously driving, smoking, and listening to rap. The dirt road was long and straight and the boy honked at every pedestrian--farmers, nannies, and his vanless peers on bicycles or donkeys. The road was flanked with waterlogged cows wading knee deep in flooded fields, entire villages--houses, markets, schools--on stilts over water. The boy didn’t acknowledge me until he ran out of cigarettes, when he touched two fingers to his lips like, Hey can I bum a smoke? Those things will kill you, I said. He gave me a look like Quit bullshitting me. I tapped a smoke from my pack and gave him a light. Sky blue sky. I reached my arm out the window, let my hand surf the breeze, smoke ribboning, red dust billowing behind us. For a moment the whole dung heap 77 world--Mom and Dad and Gary and Daveison, Sonia and Dom Ricardo and the Sociedade Comercial, The Portland Pioneer and Chuck motherfucking Gasparino--all of it was a single bloated mosquito, flicked away in a smear of blood. When the tape deck began chewing up Tupac, the boy ejected the cassette, wound it with his pinky, and slammed it back in, pumping the volume louder, our brotherhood restored. The trees grew thicker, and without warning the boy cranked the wheel hard right, power sliding into a narrow, teeth-rattling cow path, foliage brushing against the side panels. We skidded to a stop at a tiny dock. The boy slid off the driver’s seat, opened the back of the kombi, and hauled out a large Styrofoam cooler. You’d better go to the bathroom, meu mano, he told me, the first words I’d heard from his mouth. What followed was the most glorious outdoor piss of my life. The Rio Espelho, a perfect mirror, flooded forest reflected so clearly that in a photograph it would be impossible to perceive the real from the double. The canopy, sixty-feet high, dense enough to shadow the water black, strands of finger-thick vines, filaments connecting river to sky. Homebody offered me a beer from the cooler. We drank, wordless, until finally the drone of a motor echoed through the trees. An aluminum boat drifted into view, the captain, a twin of my driver. Together the boys lashed the hull to the dock. Are you two brothers? I asked. They nodded in unison. The second boy checked the cooler, a quick inventory of the supplies inside--chicken breast, a plastic bag of silver fish, a carton of quail eggs. And he has the satchel, the driver said. It’s for my guide, I said. 78 He’s been waiting for you, the second boy said. I tossed my backpack into the boat, leaving the first boy behind to repack his cooler in the kombi. We skimmed upriver, the canopy and its reflection surrounding us like a tri-colored sphere: green, blue, black. The boy steered with one hand, navigating the creeks like neighborhood streets. I had crossed a threshold. I had left something on the dock back in Manaus. I didn’t know what it was, but I knew I didn’t need it. Before long he let off the gas and let the motor die. We drifted quiet in the crystalline waters. From the cooler he withdrew the plastic bag of fish. Take one, he said. Like this. He leaned over the water and slapped the fish on the surface. I did as he did, staring into the floodwaters, drowned saplings, an entire thicket below us. Only now did it occur to me that in the summer season, this water would recede, these islands would be hills. This boy held two maps in his mind, the wet, and the dry. The canopy I saw today was but a fraction of the forest, the other half underwater, breathing in the dark. From below a creature surfaced, snatched the fish from my hand. A dolphin, teeth like pearls. Now there were two--a pink one, a silver one--fins cutting water like wings. How did they get here? I asked. River spirits, the boy said. They vanished, weaving through sunken tree trunks. Now the boy reached for a paddle on the floor of the boat and handed me its pair. We nosed into a nook in the trees, onto a patch of damp land. The boy pointed up the trail. There stood a thatch hut with a thin curl of smoke rising from the roof. 79 Up there, he said. Yes, here I was, at the source. A river beyond time. A pre-historic other. I stepped from the boat and approached slowly, careful not to disturb the ritual unfolding inside. Then I heard the laughter of buffoons. Inside, two American frat boys circled a fire where the person I assumed was our guide demonstrated how to cure rubber sap. He lifted a droopy sample from the heat. “And there you have a condom,” he said in perfect English. “Now you try.” He noticed me standing in the entry. “Oh, Randolph is here.” “It’s Peter,” I said. “I’m supposed to give you this.” He peeked into the satchel and gave me thumbs up. Introductions. The frat boys were named Dan and Danny. Both wore identical board shorts and flip-flops and visors stitched with their fraternity logo, Delta-somethingsomething. They were distinguished only by their fraternity function t-shirts: Dan’s, from a wet-tee-shirt contest; Danny’s, a breast cancer awareness shirt that read I ♥ BOOBS! Our guide was Damien, the youngest among us. Aside from his copper skin and rubber craft, he seemed much like a Delta pledge, dressed in board shorts, Nike sandals, Nike tank top, and a Nike visor corralling his raven black hair. “We can start over if you want to learn,” he said, testing the elasticity of the rubber. “No, that’s all right,” I said. 80 Damien coached the Deltas through their individualized condoms. They traded jabs about size. I paced about the hut, listening to the quirky calls of birds from the trees. Overhead, the roar of a commercial jet descending toward Manaus. As the crow flies, we weren’t far from the Teatro Amazonas. The illusion of water travel. I’d been duped. The boy in the aluminum boat was gone. Damien piloted us upriver in a long wooden canoe powered by a small gas engine. We moored alongside a warped-plank dock. On shore was a long hut with a Brazilian flag hung above the entrance, half a dozen hubcaps nailed to the exterior wall, catching sun. Three hammocks hung inside, veiled by mosquito nets. In the center of the room was a rectangular wooden table with benches on either side. In the corner, a propane stove, an ice chest, and a boom box. Behind the hut, a dirt path forked off toward an outhouse. Damien sat at the table and opened the satchel. A stack of bootleg CDs. Before long, death metal echoed across the water, drums, power chords, and growling that must have chilled the spines of every howler monkey within earshot. The Deltas dug through their packs for a bottle of cachaça and a bag of weed. I wanted slip into the water and be devoured. Are there piranhas? I asked Damien. “Speak English so that everyone can understand,” Damien said. “How do you say ‘weed’ in Portuguese?” Danny asked. Marijuana, I said. “Oh.” 81 “To answer your question, yes, there are piranhas,” Damien said. He removed his hat and sunglasses, fished his cell phone from his pocket, and dove headfirst into the river. We gasped, waiting for blood to pool. Damien surfaced: “But in the wet season, like now, they aren’t so hungry.” I stripped down to my boxers and dove in, sweet refuge from the pop ballads blaring on the surface. The water was warm and buoyant, and the frat boys were afraid to come in. As long as I was in the river, I wasn’t with them. “Don’t pee in there,” one of the frat boys said. “Bugs will crawl up your pecker.” “That’s a myth,” I said. “No, that’s true, so don’t piss,” Damien said. “So you guys want to see piranhas? No problem. We’ll have piranhas for dinner.” We climbed aboard the canoe. Damien motored us across the river, cut the engine, and steered into the flooded forest with a long pole. Shafts of light grew thinner until we drifted into a cool shade. Damien passed us each a thin stick with string attached. From a plastic bag he removed a chicken drumstick and tied a chunk to the end of each string. “So just pretend you’re a cow that fell into the water,” he said, and thrashed the surface with the tip of the stick. An instant later he lifted the pole. A shiny piranha dangled on the string, razor teeth sunk into the chicken. “Holy shit,” Dan and Danny said. Damien handed us each a pole. Within twenty minutes, the Deltas had snagged a bucketful of piranhas, but I hadn’t managed to catch a single one. I couldn’t figure out what I was doing wrong. I gave up and snapped a few pictures fit to print--the Perils of 82 Ecotourism--the Deltas eviscerating an entire school of piranhas. I wanted to push them into the water, watch them get picked clean by the piranhas, but it was the wet season, so I had to settle them getting eaten alive by mosquitoes. That night, as promised, Damien boiled a pot of piranha soup. They tasted like the chicken we’d used to lure them. He watched us eat, and when we finished, he fixed himself a box of macaroni and cheese. That night we slept, mosquitoes buzzing around our nylon nets. Our agenda for day two was a journey deeper into the creeks, a search for the açai fruit. The morning sun melted across the water like gold. Damien paddled our wooden canoe deep into the forest, stopping now and then to rest his arms and call out perfect imitations of toucans and tamarins and parrots, creatures calling back as if he were a lost friend. He landed us on an island and hacked a path inland with a machete. We advanced into the thick, dead vegetation piled in our wake. “Aren’t we hurting the jungle?” “This can’t hurt the jungle,” he said, hacking a few extraneous branches as if to prove the fauna was impervious. He paused and pointed to the treetops. A barrel of spider monkeys scurried across the canopy, mothers leaping from branch to branch with babies around their necks. I wondered if maybe Damien was right. We weren’t bulldozers. The jungle shrank us to the size of gnats, compressed our time so that a human life was merely a few dozen flood seasons. Then Damien handed his machete to Dan, unsheathed a smaller one for Danny. 83 “Look,” Danny said, hacking through the thick. “I’m motherfucking Indiana Jones.” Oh God. They were like me; This couldn’t be. We lingered while Damien snapped an assortment of photos and digital videos of Dan and Danny swinging from a thick-veined tree like Tarzan, complete with sound effects. My face was slick with sweat. Apparently it was vital to document this journey on the Delta-something-something website. “You want a picture?” “No thanks,” I said, disappointed that Damien would lump me in with these assholes. Back in Rio, the Deltas would have made me feel more Brazilian by contrast, but here in the jungle Damien called me out for what I was: a pretentious white boy trying to pass as a Brazilian, a repugnant, two-headed gringo. “Up there you can see açai,” Damien said, pointing to the top of a palm-looking tree. A patch of purple fruit hung beside a clumpy nest. “We have to be careful of wasps.” Damien yanked a broad leaf from a nearby bush. He held the leaf in his teeth as he climbed the tree barehanded, fingers interlocked around the trunk, Nikes providing the grip and thrust he needed to lunge higher. He drew closer to the wasp’s airspace. Hugging the tree one-armed, he reached into his pocket for a lighter and lit the leaf in his mouth. “If he falls we’re so fucked,” Danny said. “I could get us back to camp,” Dan said. 84 Damien held the smoking leaf toward the wasp nest, mellowing the swarm. He plucked four açai fruit and dropped them down to us. I expected him to tumble down after them, but instead he shimmied to the jungle floor, mission accomplished. The fruit tasted like honey and left my lips purple and sticky. The Deltas took a few bites. When Damien wasn’t looking, pitched theirs into the thick. “Too sweet,” Danny said. “Did you even see the effort he put into picking those?” I said. “He could have fucking died.” “Nah,” Dan said. “He’s done this a million times I bet.” “We’re paying customers,” Danny said. A searing pain in my neck: “Fuck!” Vengeful wasps, drawn to the açai dribble on my hands and face. We fled back down the machete path and pushed off in the canoe. As we floated along, the Deltas snapped a picture of crimson bite on my neck. By the time we reached open water, I was overcome by feverish chills. “Those bites hurt, no?” Damien said. “Now you can say you’ve been to the real jungle.” The finale of our tour: a night with a real Amazonian family. At dusk, we boated upriver, water ruby in the sunset. Puff birds chirped across the river in flocks of thousands. Along the banks, the occasional thatch hut was perched on stilts over the marshy water. Damien steered the boat door to door, calling out to the occupants in 85 Nheengatu. I couldn’t understand a word, but the gist of his offer was a whole chicken and a box of batteries in exchange for letting us string our hammocks inside. It was dark by the time we found a family willing to host us. A man, his wife, their adolescent daughter. We moored the boat, yellow moon peeking over the canopy. Their residence was elevated three feet above the water, probably twenty feet during the dry season. A single room contained a propane stovetop, a plank dining table with a small television, and three hammocks strung from the frame of the hut. The man untied his family’s hammocks and moved them outside to make room. By candlelight the woman prepared the chicken with rice and manioc flower. The husband made a thousand tiny adjustments to the television antennae, the big match versus Japan playing out on a field of static. We ate at the dining room table while the family watched from the plank walkway outside. The Deltas picked at their food, glancing overhead as if the room would collapse on us any minute. “This if fucking nuts,” Danny whispered. “You can speak normal,” Dan said. “They can’t understand us anyway.” “When does the family eat?” I asked Damien. “Visitors eat first,” he said. “Tradition.” When we finished, the family sat down to our leftovers. While they ate, we took turns squatting over a hole in the plank walkway behind the house. Mosquitoes zipping around my bare ass, I cringed at the plop of my waste in the water. For once, Danny had it right. What the fuck were we doing here? What were we paying to take home, and what were we leaving behind? 86 Damien summoned us back down to the canoe. With his long pole, he steered us silently into the backwaters. Drifting into the pitch forest, he withdrew a spotlight, waved the beam along water and vines and leaves as if stirring the dark. Gliding under the trees, he spotted a striped owl clutching a river rat, a sloth in suspended between branches, a boa constrictor coiled around a trunk. This is what I’d wanted, to be lost, breath taken. But as we drifted back to the hut, as Damien fanned the spotlight across the water, I shuddered under the gaze of a red-eyed alligator, witness to our trespasses. Now the father sat in the glow of his portable television, a decent picture now, Brazil crushing Japan 4-1, even without a goal from Ronaldinho. We tied hammocks. Damien explained to the Deltas how he lost his previous job for fucking too many white chicks. “I had these two stories they loved,” he said. “One about the time I killed a jaguar to save my sister, and another about how my real name is Essomericq.” “Wow, how’d you kill it?” Danny said. “I’ve never even seen a jaguar,” Damien said. “No sister, either.” “Oh.” “I can’t believe they buy that shit,” Dan said. “Essomericq sounds like a name from Star Wars.” “That part’s true,” Damien explained. “I was born in Amazonas, but sent to live in French Guiana.” “French what?” Dan said. 87 “French Guiana. I grew up in a Jesuit school outside Kourou. You’ve heard of the space center, no? Whenever they launched rockets we got the day off.” “Wait, French what again?” Danny said. “Never mind. They taught me languages and the Bible. Plus all the stuff I show you. That’s how I got my first tour job. But then this one chick turned to be married, and she woke up all guilty the next day, so when she told my boss, he was like…” Damien spoke of his origins without gravitas, the way an American might say he was born in Columbus, but moved to Cleveland. I needed a smoke. Outside, the yellow moon wavered on the water. A harmonious song in the air. I peered around the corner, glimpsed the mother and her daughter bathing naked in the lunar glow, soap bubbles coalescing around the stilts of the hut. I turned away, but couldn’t resist; I looked again, listened to their singing. The daughter reminded me of Ana Luiza, the second Brazilian to join me in Partway, my fear, my crush, how I wanted so badly to kiss her, to touch my lips to her breasts, to draw her essence into my mouth and swallow. Now the mother rinsed her daughter’s hair. I felt as if I were witnessing a baptism, but I told myself don’t romanticize. Don’t exoticize. This is nothing holy. This is everyday bathing. Yet I yearned for the other, my entire life had been the other, other mother, other father, other country, other life. I retreated, exhilarated, guilty, grief-stricken. At the window, the Deltas stood side-by-side, snapping a picture of the bathing. Damien stood over their shoulders. “What the fuck?” I asked. “You want your camera?” Damien said. 88 “Are you kidding?” On the plank walkway out back, the father was re-stringing their hammocks for the night. He saw the Delta’s at the window. I expected a massacre. Instead he asked to see the viewfinder, gazed at the camera screen, his family suspended in moonlight, as if he were seeing them for the first time. That night, I couldn’t sleep. Howler monkeys swept through the canopy like a storm. Rain thrummed the thatch work roof. I heard commotion outside, peered out the window. The moonlight was gone. The father moved through the dim, hanging a sheet of clear plastic over his wife and daughter. Shelter. 89 I logged back into the world from a café on Rua Dez de Julio. The Internet was a well of worries. O Globo ran a front page article about delays in the Metro expansion. From his corner office at the Sociedade Comercial, Dom Ricardo was probably shitting bricks. The Pioneer plastered its home page with images of borate bombers dropping fire retardant over the burning hills west of Partway. High winds had breathed life into the flames. That story probably had the newsroom in a frenzy. Chuck wouldn’t have the time to gut the article I sent him, a feature about ecotourism in the Amazon, accompanied by pictures of Dan and Danny, curing condoms, swinging from vines, holding a bucket of piranhas piled like gold coins. Damien still troubled me--his complicity, his nonchalance, his original name. He was a true amphibian, at home in dance clubs and rivers, in Nikes and barefoot. Would he even respond to the name Essomericq, or did the missionaries wipe that away in French Guinea? I wondered sometimes if I would have been better off had Mom and Dad whitewashed me completely, given me a neat middle name like Thomas or Stephen. But Mom insisted that my birth country meant something. She placed miniature Brazilian 90 and American flags on my bed stand, made desserts from a Carioca cookbook, played Gilberto Gil records on Sunday mornings. Was it to preserve who I was, or to appease a sense of guilt? She couldn’t teach me Portuguese, but she could teach me who I was, how our family came to be. Is there a right way to explain this to a child? A right time? These questions gnawed at her since the pre-adopt classes. During the 16 hour flight to Brazil. On boiling afternoons in the prefeitura courthouse. In the middle of the night as lizards crept along the apartment wall. Justifying our family would become routine, starting with the return trip through customs, stepping into an interrogation room while other families sauntered through the turnstiles. In the 1980s, international adoption wasn’t a liberal trend, it was an uncanny spectacle. In Partway, Oregon, it was the talk of the town. Folks treated Mom and Dad like they’d taken on a charity case, like taking me in was a humanitarian act. Wherever we went, our story preceded us. Those first years, Mom worried herself sleepless. What would happen when I started school? Was there a way to protect me from doubt? From a hemisphere away, Casa de Esperança tried to help. On my third birthday, Abigail sent a letter Sonia Aúrajo, handwritten in Portuguese. Mom could scarcely make sense of the message, but two words filled her with rage: Meu filho. My son. She must have called Abigail. “We don’t want this, we didn’t ask for this.” Abigail would have described what the letter contained. “I know it hurts to think about, you’ll thank us when he starts asking questions.” If mystery could wound, here was the salve. “Simplicity,” Abigail said. “That’s what you must remember.” 91 I don’t blame Mom for trusting Abigail. When the day came, she would need a story. Vanessa understood there was a thin window of opportunity. Reveal too early and the conversation would be weightless. Wait too long and the revelation could be crushing. “Listen to what the book says,” Michael said. But there was nothing natural about the pre-adopt guide, this spiral bound instruction book for how to make another woman’s son your own. Tonight, with Michael snoring beside her, Vanessa reviewed all three chapters devoted to the matter: wait for a natural time; use vocabulary the child will understand; be sure the conversation takes place in an area free of toys, television, or other distractions; describe where what makes your home a safe, loving environment; pause frequently; ask if the child has any questions, especially if the child shows signs of confusion. Vanessa hated that term, the child, the way it could be any child, anyone’s child. This child, in this country, no longer that child, from that country. A shadow at the door. Her little boy, dark curls tussled, standing no higher than the doorknob. “I had a nightmare.” “Come up here, sweet pie,” she said, making space on the bed. “You can sleep with us.” Vanessa lay awake all night, eyes open, ears keen to the bleating of lambs outside in the dark. 92 For several days she practiced in front of the mirror. Various tones, inflections. “You’re going to give yourself a complex,” Michael said. “Him, too.” Michael was never one to talk about the adoption. He never spoke of those months in Brazil, and now back in Partway he confronted the process just once a month, when he wrote checks toward their debts, which still lingered after four years. Once those were paid, there would be no more evidence of the transaction. But Vanessa knew adoption wouldn’t fade like a birthmark, it would grow sharper. This became clear at support meetings in Salem where mothers from across the state gathered yearly to fill out post-adopt reports and receive counseling. Another woman from Partway had just adopted a seven-year-old from Casa de Esperança. The girl’s name was Ana Luiza, and she was a cracked gem. After a year with her new family, she still hoarded food. Her new parents were instructed to keep a tray of cheese and crackers in plain sight at all times, but her mother kept finding stashes, vacuuming under the bed, old sandwiches, bananas, oranges left over from 4th of July, now gathering blooms of mold, ants. Vanessa listened to the stories, horrified, grateful. Ana Luiza running away, walking down the gravel road in bare feet and pajamas. “You two are still just getting adjusted,” Vanessa said, as if it were a simple matter of adjusting to room temperature. But secretly she was thankful to know there was another adoptive family in town, one that made hers seem normal by comparison. “Just imagine the progress you’ve made,” the counselor said. She recommended a baby monitor be kept in Ana Luiza’s room. A week later, Ana Luiza’s mother called 93 Vanessa at midnight. She and her husband had gone to bed as usual, listening to the low static of the baby monitor, waiting to hear the ghost sounds of Ana Luiza’s breathing. Instead they heard a popping noise. They hurried to her bedroom, flipped on the light. Handprints like red butterflies across the periwinkle walls. On the carpet, shattered picture frames. Ana Luiza worked the shards of glass in her mouth, a well of red paint. There was that child, and then there was this child, Peter, oblivious to his origins, his bedroom a tidy memory hole. At night Vanessa bathed him, disguised his dark curls with bubble bath. Only his brown eyes spoiled the illusion that he came from her. She could dye his hair. It would be harmless. More harmless than the manager at the grocery store in Redmond who just last week asked Peter, “Are you lost, little guy?” even though Vanessa was standing right there. But there was no hiding from adoption, even among friends. Watching Peter’s swimming lessons at the aquatic center in Bend, Vanessa listened to the other mothers share pregnancy stories. When the conversation turned to her, the women fell silent, turned to the pool, searched the flock of water wings for their children. In less than a month, Peter would begin his pre-school program. The natural moment for the conversation had to arrive in the next four weeks. Vanessa didn’t want him confused by questions from his classmates, from the teacher, from other parents. “Let it be,” Michael said. “If it was that important to tell the kid before school age, they would have mentioned it.” “But don’t you think—“ 94 “Don’t you think you should just enjoy this? He’s ours now.” On registration day, the school nurse thumbed through the triplicate forms. “It says here he was born in Brazil?” “Adopted.” “International children need a whole other exam.” Another doctor’s visit, another $80. Then, without warning, as if to prove the school nurse right, Peter came down with a fever. “We have to take him in,” Michael said, holding a cold cloth to his forehead. Vanessa didn’t want to bring him to the hospital. She could take care of this. She was his mother. But when the fever refused to break, she gave in. To arrive in the ER with a child so ill seemed to confirm an inherent problem. She wasn’t fit to be a mother. The universal gift of procreation had been stripped from her genes her for a reason. The nursing staff glared at Vanessa as if she lacked single maternal instinct. How could she have waited so long? They submerged Peter in a tub of ice. Watching him shudder in the cold water, Vanessa panicked. It’s wasn’t looking good. Nobody would say it, but that’s what the nurses seemed to be telling the doctor with their eyes. “It’s probably best if they leave the room,” the doctor said. In the hallway, Michael tried to comfort her. “We can adopt again.” Vanessa pushed him away. “So we’ll just get another one? Is that what you think?” “That’s not what I meant.” “You don’t deserve to be a father,” Vanessa said, wondering who deserved what in this world. 95 This child looked small, shrunken. The doctor said they were very lucky. Any longer, and the fever could have led to hearing loss. Which is why Vanessa was so surprised to hear Peter laughing the next day, thrilled by the prospect of all the ice cream he could eat. Soon he returned to swimming lessons. She wouldn’t take her eyes off him. “Did they ever find out what it was?” one mother asked, as if the pool were being exposed to a deadly Brazilian contagion. “The flu.” “So his system can’t handle American flu?” “Just an ordinary, everyday, common flu,” Vanessa said. “It can happen to anyone. It could have happened to one of yours.” Tomorrow, pre-school, his first day. The fever was long gone, but all afternoon Vanessa had been feeling Peter’s forehead as if reading a fortune there. Now he shuffled across the shag carpet in his socks, practicing the magic of static charge. Vanessa set the pre-adopt book aside. “Peter,” she said. “Come here a second.” His socks crackled on the carpet. “I have something very important to talk to you about. About our family.” The most natural time, the most natural words. Peter stood in front of her, fidgeting as she spoke. Vanessa unfolded an atlas, pointed to Oregon, to Partway. He 96 shuffled his feet. She flipped several pages to South America, hands shaking, and touched Rio de Janeiro. “Do you understand?” He reached out with his finger and shocked the tip of her nose. “Stop that,” she said. “This is important. What I’m saying is that even though I didn’t have you, I am your mother.” But he was all laughs, shuffling in his socks, building charge. Vanessa grabbed him by the shoulders, shook. “Now you listen,” she said. “I am your mother. Do you understand? I am your mother.” Breathless, she felt him trembling, her rage written on his face. The tears were proof. He would remember. 97 My checking account was fucked. Rent would be due when I returned to Rio; It was already past due in Portland. On the bus ride to the Manaus airport, I scribbled calculations on a napkin, gazing at the math as if a few extra zeros would materialize. I wasn’t ready to return to Rio, to the specter of Sonia floating in the hills, to whatever news Daveison had waiting. Assuming Chuck took the ecotourism story, I had enough credit left for one more jaunt. Passport in hand, I waited in line at the ticket counter. Already I’d seen more of Brazil than most Brazilians. I wanted to believe that its history was my history, yet here I exploited that freedom of motion so essentially American, jetting where I wanted, when I wanted, all on plastic. If travel was power, I would use it wisely. From Manaus it was only a four flight to Bahia, where the blood of Africa entered the country’s veins. If I wanted to understand Brazil, I had to breathe that air. In Salvador, the cab driver griped about Ronaldinho as he swerved between lanes, his dialect lost on my ears. When I finally had a chance to respond, he immediately called me out on my accent. Vocé Carioca, no? 98 Sem, I said, swelling with pride. Carioca de gema. The first time since I’d arrived that anyone had addressed me as a Brazilian, and in a taxi, no less. I rolled down the window, scent of sea salt and factory fumes. Born in Rio, and now with the accent to prove it. The driver took me directly to the Pelourinho--the historic center in the Upper City--a hilly district overlooking ports along the Bay of All Saints. Turning up a narrow cobblestone street, he warned me not to stray far from the plaça central. É Cracolándia aqui, he said, gesturing out the window. Ruby-eyed boys walked barefoot along the gutters, shirts slipping off their collarbones. Men with weathered faces slumped against brick walls, bottles and bags in their hands. The driver deposited me at the bottom of a long hill closed to traffic, a colorful slope of pastel churches and storefronts. The Pelourinho, a World Heritage Site, once the most active port in the slave trade. Its namesake was a whipping post for public beatings; Now the district was an African Art Walk. Artisans lined the sidewalks with easels of bright acrylic art and velvet tabletops sparkling with jewelry. Plump Bahian women in traditional red and white dresses sold dumplings fried in dendé oil, their bandanas moist with sweat. Young Rastafarians charged ten reals to twist gringo hair into dreadlocks. Around the central plaza, capoeira dancers in yellow and blue jumpsuits flipped acrobatic to the hypnotic beat of a drum circle. On every corner, an ATM machine, guarded by military police with machine guns slung haphazardly on their shoulders. Since that night in Lapa, any man in a uniform left me paranoid. I retreated to overlook, a cliffside view of lower city--ports, warehouses, 99 tenements with windows like mouths of broken teeth--and beyond that, the Bay of All Saints, sun sinking into the water. Turistas swarmed like ants to melted ice cream, snapping pictures, checking their viewfinders, and then snapping better pictures. The history I’d learned from The Brazil Reader--finger splitting cane harvests, iron masks for alcoholic slaves, punitive separation of mothers and children--was buried somewhere in this theme park. I watched freight ships twinkle along the coast and out to sea, bound for the U.S. or the Caribbean or Europe or Africa, and when the sun finally melted over the edge, I lingered a while in the dark. The hotel sign read LOCALLY OWNED. Inside I was greeted by a toothy woman named Isabel. After showing me to my room, she offered a brief tour of the amenities--a communal refrigerator, a TV and computer room, a foosball table, and a clothes line for guests, not to be confused with her personal clothes line, the one strung next to the parrot cage. And don’t forget, Isabel said. Read the postings in the lobby! This place is full of scams. I thanked her and unpacked. In the TV room I checked my email. Chuck Gasparino, subject line: Are you fucking kidding me? I clicked open the message. Save the Amazon, blah blah blah. This isn’t 1994. Oregon is on fire! Give us something hard hitting! Gasparino the Impaler had done it again. On the website, a picture of the Deltas fishing for piranhas, a trivia item debunking the myth that “these most ravenous of fish” can devour a cow in 60 seconds. Not even a byline. 100 Hard hitting? Motherfucker. Chuck deserved a hard hit to the nuts. At least I’d get a few bucks for the photo--enough for another week of street food. On my way out, I glanced at the pin board hanging in the lobby: WATCH YOUR CAMERAS! DON’T TAKE DRINKS FROM STRANGERS! et cetera, et cetera, warnings for gringos, a title I had defiantly shucked off. Now that it was full dark there were twice as many soldiers guarding the corners. In the yellow glow of street lights, drizzle like diamond shards. On a nearby corner I ordered shrimp dumplings from a Bahiana and ate standing up, licking dendé oil from my fingertips. Afterward I wandered to an outdoor café on the perimeter of the historic district where a salt-and-pepper haired guitarist sang Gilberto Gil songs for drunken study-abroad kids indifferent to the rain. Children weaved through the plastic table sets, selling gum and candomblé icons and post-card sized paintings of capoeira dancers. A pair of soldiers leaned against the brick wall, arguing about tomorrow’s match against Ghana, glaring now and then at any children who resorted to the hard sell. In the alleyway, a woman in a hooded sweatshirt sent her little girl to the tables to beg. The runny nosed criança approached my table, gestured hand to mouth, and extended her little palm. I reached into my pocket for a five real bill, pink and wrinkled. A soldier stepped forward and scattered her back into the dark. She wasn’t bothering me, I said. They must have something to sell, the soldier said. 101 Echoing somewhere in the distance, percussion in the pastel alleyways, growing louder until I could feel the bass in my chest. A local drum bloc turned the corner, men pounding surdos with thick wooden sticks, women dancing folkloric in unison, a throng of turistas behind them in a drunken conga line. The following morning, I heeded the taxi driver’s warning, and restricted my wandering to the historic center. I photographed the Elevador Lacerda, a giant lift that lowered turistas to the Mercado Modelo near the port, a dez centavo ride down to the waterfront, safely avoiding the side streets. A teenage girl offered passengers postcards as they exited the elevator. She wore a tie-die shirt that read Cidade de Amanhã--City of Tomorrow. Most ignored her, but a few stopped to offer a small donation. O Senhor, she said in as I approached. Then in English: “A postcard for hungry children?” I paid ten reals for a postcard of a glorious sunset over the bay. On the reverse side, a brief paragraph of information about the Cidade de Amanhã. An address nearby, Rua Frei Vicente. I asked the girl for directions to the headquarters. It was only a few blocks away, a block beyond the limits of the historic district, a small street front office with a sign that matched the logo on the girl’s shirt. On the curb outside, an ashy-skinned boy sat alone at a chessboard, locked in an endgame with himself. Fingertip on a rook, he wore a quizzical expression as if taking an exam so engaging it delighted him. Como vai? I asked them. Can you tell me who’s in charge here? 102 Dashawna, he said, and pointed me inside. The office was sparsely decorated with soccer posters and crayon drawings. Another little boy sat on the floor, sipping a Coke, watching Brazil run the clock against scoreless Ghana. Rotating fans stirred the stale air, ruffling the pages on a front desk piled high with books. At a kidney shaped table in the back of the room, a black woman around my age conversed with a little girl, a microcassette recorder positioned between them. Excuse me? I asked. Dashawna stopped the recorder and sent the girl outside to play. I introduced myself as an American journalist. She immediately switched to English, a hint of the south in her voice. “Who do you write for?” “The Portland Pioneer.” “You’re a long way from home,” she said, gathering her notes from the kidney shaped table. “And you?” I asked. “I’m from D.C.,” Dashawna said. “Georgetown.” A doctoral candidate there, founder and sole member of Cidade de Amanhã. “So you were born here?” “I just told you. D.C.” “So what exactly are you doing?” “I’m writing ethnography.” 103 I looked around the office again. Among the books on her desk was a tattered copy of The Brazil Reader. A stack of microcassettes labeled and dated in black marker. “So what’s all this?” “The children come here to eat.” “And you record their conversations?” I asked. “Look, I’m really busy,” she said. “I don’t think I can help you,” she said. “No, I think you can,” I said. “This looks really interesting.” Nossa! said the boy watching the Copa, pointing at the screen. Zé Roberto with a goal in the 84th minute. Upon seeing the replay, he collapsed into giggles on the floor, nearly spilling his Coke, reminding me of Roger back Partway, waiting for truck drivers to blow their horn. From a mini-fridge under her desk, Dashawna pulled out a can of Coke and delivered it to the boy at the chessboard outside who was arranging pieces for a new game. “I guess I don’t see why this has anything to do with you,” she said. “I’m Brazilian,” I said. “I mean, I was born in Rio. Adopted I mean. I guess I’m here to see my roots.” “Don’t take this the wrong way,” Dashawna said, sizing me up. “But I’m pretty sure you don’t have any roots here.” Back at the hotel, Isabel pinned laundry on her line, chatting with her parrot. I told her about Dashawna. 104 Oh yes, she said. We get lots of gringos like that. Always very curious. Like they never had grandmothers. It’s good she’s keeping those meninos off the glue. She’s writing a book. You sound jealous, Isabel said. I don’t see why. Who would buy a book like that? Outside the sky was violet, the streets were growing dim. I walked the perimeter of the Pelourinho like an animal pacing a cage. I wasn’t going to let some Georgetown academic tell me where I could find my roots. I wasn’t going to let the prefeitura decide where it was safe to walk. I was going to see the Lower City. I turned down Ladeira da Montanha, a side street that switched backed down the cliffside. “Excuse me, sir,” a policia called from the corner, “For your safety and convenience, we recommend the elevator.” I prefer to walk. Sua escolha, meu mano. I trotted briskly down the brick alleyway. An enormous stray dog nosed through a pile of trash bags. Above, I could see the flash of cameras from the overlook. A man pushing a wheelbarrow of plantains rolled uphill. We nodded at each other. Overhead, the twin cars of the Elevador Lacerda hummed, heavy with gringos. It wasn’t long before I reached Avenida da Fraça, where a last group of turistas waited to be lifted to the Upper City. I walked along the waterfront, past the Mercado, past the Naval Headquarters. Fishing boats bobbed along the docks, freighters like gems on the horizon. I took a side street into a neighborhood. Traffic thinned. No gunshots, no sirens, no imminent danger, 105 only a neighborhood without much light. From the window of a high-rise apartment, someone practicing heavy metal guitar. I passed under a sodium lamp, my shadow in the buzzing light elongating with every step. A group of boys emerged from an alleyway just ahead--six of them--just boys. One stepped forward and held out his hand. O Senhor, he said. If we could have one moment of your time. We would be very grateful for money to buy milk for our brothers and sisters. His nose ran freely and his eyelids drooped. If Sonia had made another choice, would it have been me begging strangers for milk? Just a block ahead was a corner market. The boys followed me there, waited on the street while I went inside. The woman behind the counter looked puzzled when I set two cases of condensed milk--50 reals worth--near the cash register. She leaned over the counter, peering out the window, but the boys had disappeared. They returned when I stepped outside. They ripped the cellophane from the cases and used their shirts like baskets to load up with cans. One by one they thanked me before scurrying down the alleyway. The walk back to the hotel was an uphill trudge, but I was energized. Dashawna could keep selling postcards, trading meals for children’s private histories. I would give the right way--generosity without ethnography. Back at the hostel, I told Isabel. Meu Deus, don’t you read? she said, pointing at the pin board. NO BUYING MILK FOR THE CHILDREN! It’s the oldest trick, she said. Those malqueridos just trade it for pedra. 106 I’d been listening for Brazil to whisper who I was, and now the response was a shout: Gringo! No pre-history in Amazonas, no roots in Bahia. All just imperial fantasy. I was nothing of the jungle, or the African Diaspora. I wasn’t even Carioca. I was Partway, the son of a sheep farmer, a farm kid with a funny middle name. 107 On the 1st of July, Henry da França stabbed the heart of Brazil with a goal in the 57th minute of the quarterfinal game. Fans wandered the streets of Rio as if in the aftermath of a quake, tugging at their hair, peeling off their jerseys, cursing Zé Roberto and Fred, Ronaldo and Kaká, and that overpaid good-for-nothing playboy Ronaldinho. That afternoon I returned to the apartment to find a late rent notice tacked to the door. The place was stuffy and silent, Gary’s blankets folded neatly on the couch. The voicemail blinked red. Número uma mensagem: Oi, Peter! Just a little more time, no? Mensagem de dois: If we don’t have rent by sexta-feira, we change the locks… Mensagem de três: Nada. I heaved my filthy backpack on the bed and called the newsroom. It was time to come clean to Chuck. No more exposés or features. I would write what I was qualified to write--vignettes for gringos, delightful little jewels that would entice our dwindling advertisers, that would make some insurance broker in the Pearl District book his ticket to Rio. A panorama starring Cristo Redentor, with action shots of beach volleyball and sweaty red-filtered samba clubs. An extra 250-word brite on the history of the bikini. I would cash my check and go home. 108 Chuck answered: “Hey hey!” In the background, shouts and laughter. “Wish you were here, kid. There’s bourbon.” “I’m really sorry. I know I said--” “No, it’s my fault,” Chuck said. “Listen, I didn’t want to fuck up your vacation. We got the doomsday notice as soon as the Forest Service put out the fires. Those fuckers squeezed one last good story out of us, then boom! Sold! Ha!” “So what about--” “That’s the four million dollar question. They’re saying that starting Monday, 70% of copy comes off the wire. Whatever you got, don’t bother. It’s gonna get killed.” Chuck broke down the details. When I came back to Oregon, I had to apply for a transfer to the new parent company. Cub reporters like me were cheap dates, so I might still have a job. Either way, health benefits would be extended a year. “Look, buddy,” Chuck said. “I feel like a turd for stringing you along, but I put in a call to a buddy of mine. I got you a gig down there. Not much, but I didn’t want to leave you out to dry.” “Thanks, Chuck.” “How you doing anyway, kid? Get yourself laid yet?” “Everything’s fine.” “Do yourself a favor and get some pussy. Some for me, too.” The Financial Times needed a contributing reporter to a feature on offshore oil in the Campos Bay. They paid for the car, they paid a per diem. Best of all, it would get me moving again. Friday morning I rented a compact VW. Rio traffic was a clusterfuck, 109 a game I hadn’t been invited to play, but I squeezed onto the expressway and across the bay to Niteiroi. I followed a road map that I held on my lap. North on BR 101. The two lane highway severed a wide valley of green hills, cattle perched on impossible slopes, farmhouses leaning from decades of wind. Semi-trucks dominated the road, passing uphill and around blind corners, heavy with pigs, beer, cattle, propane tanks, sugar cane, cars, and coconuts. I kept my hands at two and ten, prepared to swerve onto the shoulder at a moment’s notice. Finally, a Petrobras sign pointed down a road that wasn’t on the map, cratered with pot-holes and littered with cane stalks. Endless sugar fields, interrupted only by the occasional muddy tractor trail strewn with cattle bones. On the horizon the sky was brown and orange, ash fluttering from burning fields. Beyond the wall of smoke was the village of Quissamã. I was here to cover the new helipad, built by the prefeitura to help speed up oil company investment. Quissamã had been mired in an economic slump since abolition. Ethanol policy gave the town a boost, an influx of corporate cane fields and research refineries. But the real black gold was offshore, and Petrobras paid hefty royalties to the prefeitura for the right to drill. The mayor had lathered the town with a fresh a new coat of baby blue, including the town’s colonial church, which was getting a second coat the afternoon I arrived. Restaurants, newsstands, and two internet cafés lined the only plaza, which now featured a tourist kiosk staffed by the mayor’s son, who dreamily flipped through a stack of full-color Quissamã brochures. I was greeted with an ice cold bottle of the town’s famous coconut milk, and offered the front seat in the mayor’s jeep. He drove very, very slowly on the way to the 110 helipad, which was a fancy word for the giant concrete slab just outside of town, a sunspot for milk cows. The mayor honked to scare away the cows, and politely asked his assistant to shovel off the cow pies before I took pictures. Not exactly journalistic integrity, but what the fuck. I was here to provide three photos and the word from the man on the street. Some analyst back in London would fill in the commodities data. A shared byline. My first real international clip. Back in town, I sat on a bench in the plaza, interviewing folks about the boom. I overheard the mayor’s son explain that I was from O Globo, and I didn’t correct them. In the right light, I felt Brazilian. Villagers lined up to speak about their new jobs. I took notes in Portuguese. New construction, new jobs. Mustard and ketchup in the restaurants. The village had geared itself up for tourism, but unless gringos arrived via chopper, the villagers were going to be waiting a long time. I was the first journalist to brave the roads, a sign of good times to come. The mayor had found jobs for all but two of the town’s beggars, a rail thin blind man with creamy eyes, and his companion, a large, bearded man who had clearly suffered some sort of head injury. The bearded man was unable to speak, one side of his face drooping like clay, but he was more than capable of leading his blind friend around obstacles. They waited at the end of the line, and then shuffled forward. Oi gringo, the blind man said. What brings you here? What makes you think I’m a gringo? I asked. You smell like you might spare some change. 111 The payday wasn’t much, but enough to cover another month of rent. The rain started and wouldn’t quit. The Confenderação Brasileiro de Futebol had been suspended out of respect for the national team’s inevitable sixth championship, but now that the team had choked, Cariocas were thunderstruck, a life without futebol for two more weeks. I sat in the apartment, watching novelas until a bittersweet moment when I realized that I no longer strained to comprehend the dialogue. Nossa. I’d once believed that once I was fluent in Portuguese, Brazilian-ness would rise inside me like a superpower, now I understood that fluency meant language without mystique. A voicemail from Dad: “Heard about The Pioneer. So what now? You gotten this out of your system yet?” No. I was busy riding busses, straining to digest the city, to internalize its map. Rio de Janeiro, where the grid goes to die, where every road curves, or is about to curve, where water and jungle and mountains resist boxes, where tunnels bore like worm holes under the favelas, escape routes, tunnels cool and dark under the heat of shanty-stacked morros, under iron bars and barbed wire, under baile funk and samba, under guard dogs and stray bullets, tunnels leading to a pinprick of light, the next district, a palm-lined paradise, or a dewy jungle, or a fortress of banks, Rio de Janeiro, where south means beach, where north means brick, endless rolling hills of brick, where the pavement cracks and craters, where the busses turn around. I foolishly hoped that if I covered enough ground, I might bump into Sonia, or a half-brother, or a cousin walking these streets. Would I recognize blood relatives? Would they recognize me? In the mornings I wandered not unlike that pair of beggars in 112 Quissamã, half-blind, half-speechless. Afternoons I lingered around Carioca station, pacing around the Sociedade Comercial, striding along the flocks of businessmen, wondering if I might just catch the eye of Dom Ricardo. At night, peering out the window, I saw my reflection in the glass, my phantom Brazilian-self staring back at me. When France was crowned champion of the Copa do Mundo, the city began to recover. Zidane’s flagrant headbutt was proof—they had cheated the entire way, and any doido could see that Brazil would have gone on to win as soon as Ronaldinho woke up. Cariocas put that past aside, and began frothing about the final matches of the Copa do Brasil. On a morning when the sky was clear except for a single cloud like a rotten banana, I boarded the 312 to Avenida Atlântica, my first beach day in weeks. The giant digital clock counted down to the Pan-American games, drawing closer by the second. But today Copacabana Beach was nearly empty, only a few vendors packing their wares. Oi, I asked the beer man. One beer, and one chair. Beer, no chair, he said. Por que não? He pointed at the rotten banana sky on the horizon, as if the city were doomed. I sat on the sand with my beer, sipped foam from the rim, watched the waves gather strength. The beer man packed and fled. Along the two mile coast, only a few trash collectors poking cans with sticks. The rotten banana cloud multiplied, endless bushels, tumbling toward shore. I stayed put, scanning the brick homes on the hills, wondering if anyone up there could see me down here. Thunder. Rain thrummed the sand, crabs skittering sideways to the sea. Beach to myself, I lay on my back, drops like needles in 113 my eyes. This was it. Time to call it quits. Daveison wasn’t coming through and soon I would be broke. Real life waited back in Oregon. Mom was gone and she wasn’t coming back. This escapade had served its purpose. I’d seen the country and gotten a clip. I would grit my teeth and admit it. Dad was right. Some doors, once you open them, they can’t be closed. I’d opened this one, and now I had to face facts: Some burials happen without bodies. When I returned to the apartment, the voicemail blinked red. Número uma mensagem: Good news, Peter! He finally listened! Dom Ricardo will send a car in the morning… 114 PART THREE 115 That night before I was to meet Dom Ricardo, I lay awake in the gray wash of moonlight through the window. A faint rush of traffic from the street below, punctuated by the tapping of footsteps in the stairwell outside my door. Time slowed down. Três tigres tristes para três tragos de trigo. I imagined Dom Ricardo awake somewhere in the city, imagining me. And Sonia? Could she sense us somehow, ghosts of her past coalescing? Três tragos de trigo para três tigres tristes. The evening I opened Mom’s firebox, when I discovered that burnt-orange envelope, I tore into a wound I didn’t even know I’d suffered. In those two pages, front and back, Sonia crammed the essence of our nine months together. Her work, her family, her best friend. Meu filho, my son. Seu mae, your mother. For the first time, I understood that my bones were once soft tissue in her belly. Those months she agonized whether or not to keep me, I was there, borne around in her womb, hearing what she heard, eating what she ate, assembling myself. In the dark I convinced myself that all three of us were awake at once--Dom Ricardo, Sonia Aúrajo, and their son-- thoughts connecting through the night like a circuit, bringing the past to light. 1981. I squinted at the clock, numbers blurry in the dark. 116 Five in the morning, Sonia sweating through her blouse, this bus like a hot can kicked down the avenida. The sky was a violet shade, yellow drops of streetlights flanking the billboards of Rua de San Luis, displays of families at the park, or around the dinner table, or in church pews, all smiling examples of the military’s slogan: Brasil: Ame-o ou Deixe-o! Love it or leave it. Today was Friday, and all week Sonia had been deciding how best to tell Mr. Alfonso that she was pregnant with his child. Whether to tell him at all. She leaned her head against the window glass. Behind a series of ground-level billboards, malqueridos squatted in makeshift shelters, lighting fires for breakfast. The policia, batons in hand, were clearing the families out. Sonia watched the officers fling a birdcage and an ice chest into a flaming pile. A man and his wife looked on, glints of fire in their eyes, the woman holding a baby to her shoulder. When the bus pulled away Sonia turned back to see the officers ignite the billboard, a reminder of her father’s perpetual warning: Minha filha, if you don’t find the right kind of man soon, you’ll end up with the kind who lives outdoors. Mr. Alfonso was the right kind of man, except that he was a banker and she was his maid. His family’s maid. For 10 weeks already Sonia had entertained notions of him leaving his wife and two children for her—easy as turning the TV to another channel— but now she felt the child growing, and cursed herself for daydreaming. Above the bus driver’s seat was a small, sputtering fan. Passengers leaned forward to catch a bit of its breeze. At the corner a frail woman boarded with a tray of fruit for sale, fingertips on the seats for balance as she walked the aisle. Today one avocado cost one novo cruzeiro. The passenger in the front seat grumbled about the new 117 price, holding a crisp bill up to the light of the window to see exactly what he was spending. Six months ago fruit cost only a few coins. Then a cruzeiro—one of the old kind. Not long after, five cruzeiros, and then ten. This month, the military had printed these novo cruzeiros, rendering the old ones worthless. Here the fruit vendor snatched the man’s novo cruzeiro and handed him an avocado, which he peeled slowly, as if to make it last. Sonia was hungry, but let the woman go by. The driver stopped the bus, brakes hissing. All at once the passengers shut their windows against the stench of melting rubber. Outside, a group of striking workers blocked the road with burning tires. The driver opened the door and stepped out. The fruit vendor followed. Peering out her window, Sonia caught eyes with the leader of the strike, determination chiseled into his face. The young man reminded her of Tonio, her brother, who led demonstrations of his own in São Paolo, refusing to leave the factory grounds even when they brought in the dogs. Now the bus driver pointed up at his passengers—maids, mechanics, nadie mais. The leader ordered his men to clear the road. With pitchforks they dragged the burning tires across the lanes. The driver hustled back to his seat, cursing, and pulled through the narrow space. Two other cars honked and slipped past behind them. Sonia watched out the rear window, men hauling tires back to the center line. It was six o’clock when she arrived at Plaça da Quimera and the sky was a fiery pink. Birdsong filled the trees as she walked the street of townhouses. A dog trotted behind her, nosing trash cans. It was an unorthodox situation, this daily commute to the Alfonso home. Most servants in the neighborhood lived with their employers, or at least 118 in boarding houses nearby. Sonia had occupied the maid’s quarters until three weeks ago, when Mrs. Alfonso decided to convert that space into a gift wrapping room. Sonia unlocked the rear door of No. 427. She wiped her feet on the mat. Mrs. Alfonso, a tube of lipstick in her hand, turned down the hallway without saying good morning. Bom dia, Senhora, Sonia called after her. She started a pan of café and sliced bananas onto four bowls of wheat flakes. In the salon, Mr. Alfonso played with his sleepy-eyed children, Juliana and Thiago. Together they stacked dominoes in a line from the television to the coffee table, across the book shelf, and then precariously atop the record collection. Little Thiago was eager to knock them over. You eat your breakfast first, Mr. Alfonso said, tucking his tie between his shirt. Oi, Sonia. Bom dia, Senhor. How tender he was with the children. A bright, stern man with neatly combed hair and a thick, black mustache, Mr. Alfonso worked as an officer at the Banco Central do Brasil. The switch to the novo cruzeiro had demanded long hours lately. His eyes were rimmed with fatigue, but still he still woke early to play with the children. Here was the type of man Sonia’s father would approve of. For seventeen years her father had worked at the Fiat Motors. These days he watched the strikes on television—strikes his own son organized—astonished that men would question steady work on any terms, even if wages lagged three years behind inflation. Mr. Alfonso understood what it meant to provide. Still, he terrified Sonia. She was 19-years-old and he the first employer she had ever known. But his tenderness could be found in small actions: the pauses at the 119 birdcage to tickle the parakeet, the tuneless ballads he sang in the shower, the pocket full of thin mint candies he kept for the children. This morning the children ate quickly. Sonia cleared their dishes and soon heard the quick zip of their dominoes, giggles, then disappointment that it was over so quickly. Time for school, Mrs. Alfonso told them. Go on, now. Wash up. Juliana obeyed. Thiago lingered on the floor, rearranging dominoes. Thiago, agora! Sonia said. He boxed up the dominoes and slouched toward the bathroom. Sonia kept herself from smiling at her silent understanding with the boy. Listening to his mother was optional. Mrs. Alfonso grumbled. She and Mr. Alfonso sat at the breakfast table, sifting through the newspaper. I’m taking the children to school myself this morning, Mrs. Alfonso announced. You have the luncheon to prepare for, Mr. Alfonso said. One of the others can take charge. These charities are important. The car is already on its way. Sonia scrubbed the countertop. When Mrs. Alfonso noticed her eavesdropping, she switched to English. The conversation tumbled into a mess, like the sound of a washing machine. Sonia yearned for a language she could speak to Mr. Alfonso alone, one that his wife could not understand. Wiping down the breakfast table, she noticed a spot of lint on the shoulder of his suit. When she reached to remove it, Mrs. Alfonso glared, mouth suspended between English words. Sonia wanted to blurt the truth right then. He couldn’t resist himself. You should have seen us in the bathroom. In front of that same mirror where you put on your make- 120 up. But she had been warned against such foolishness by Jackie, her best friend and confidant: This is no soap opera. He’ll pop you like a roach, just a tap of his foot. You’re lucky he convinced his wife to keep you around. Get your milk while you still can. Since the day Sonia lost her virginity to Mr. Alfonso, it was Jackie who saw each drama unfold before it happened, as if she could peer into the future. If Sonia told Mr. Alfonso about the child, her options would evaporate. Except time was running against her. She had noticed her skin breaking out, the way her apron hugged her belly. Surely Mrs. Alfonso had noticed, too. Mr. Alfonso shook open the financial section and held it so that his face was hidden. Sonia finished wiping the table, avoiding Mrs. Alfonso’s gaze. At the kitchen sink she squeezed grime from the sponge, left the tap running to soothe the sharp silence. Finally Mr. Alfonso retreated down the hallway to kiss his children goodbye. On his way out the door he tickled the parakeet and then it was just Sonia and Mrs. Alfonso alone, the bird gleefully chirping in the morning light. Mrs. Alfonso left her dishes on the table and adjusted her blouse in the entryway mirror. I have a luncheon at the children’s hospital, she said, but I will pick up Juli and Thiago from school myself. Of course, Senhora. At long last Mrs. Alfonso’s car arrived and she departed for her fundraiser. Sonia readied lunches for the little ones. They waited by the door, backpacks slung over their shoulders. Good looking children. Sonia handed over their lunch bags, crouching to clean a spot of jelly from Thiago’s uniform. Yes, good looking children, and soon she 121 would be mother to one of her own. She tried to discern in Thiago’s face those features—the defined jawbone, the thin nose—that came from Mr. Alfonso. She held her arm near to Thiago’s, her copper against his cream, imagining what tipo she had growing inside her. On the walk to school the streets were boiling. Policia stood on the corners, shirts unbuttoned, leaning on their guns like canes. A helicopter thwapped overhead like a giant hawk. Where are they going? Thiago asked. Nobody knows, Sonia said. Perhaps to the strikes in São Paolo? Sonia imagined her brother sweating it out on the factory lot where for a hundred days none of the workers had manned the assembly lines. Juliana ambled along the sidewalk, applying lipstick carefully from a pocket mirror, subtle rouge, a secret kept from her mother. Sonia and Juliana had never come to this agreement formally, but it was a matter of trust: the lipstick was permitted so long as she washed it off before coming home. Tell me, Sonia said. Have your mae and pai been arguing lately? Always, Thiago said. Cale o bico! Juliana told him. It’s true, he said. That doesn’t mean it’s everybody’s business, Juliana said. Sonia isn’t everybody. All right, all right, calm down, Sonia said. I was only curious. So what does your father have planned for the weekend? 122 Weekends are family time, Juliana said. But Sonia wanted to know more about those vanished two days. Did Mr. Alfonso ever speak of her? But soon they were at the school gate, and the children hustled into the courtyard to stand in order for the morning flag. Back at the house, Sonia tended to her chores. In a home of this size there was plenty to dust. The Alfonsos were fond of travel, always leaving the country for Buenos Aires, or Santiago, or Miami, and Mrs. Alfonso returned each time with new collectibles-statuettes, glassware, peculiar plates and coins--for display in the salon and along the hallways. In each room there were pictures to wipe clean, the children’s school portraits, immaculate wedding photos, and on the bedroom nightstand, a black and white image a younger Mr. Alfonso, boyish without his mustache, gazing out into the bay as if surveying his future. Did he see all this? Sonia daydreamed about how he met his wife, what sort of dates he’d taken her on, what sort of love they made the first time. She moved on to the laundry, sorting towels and linens, turning socks inside out, fishing loose candies from Mr. Alfonso’s pockets. She imagined they had met in school, or that they had been introduced by their parents. She imagined what Mrs. Alfonso’s life was like when she was pregnant with Juli and Thiago, what sort of salgados Mr. Alfonso brought for her cravings. Sonia moved on to the bathroom, scrubbing the tile walls until she saw her face reflected in a dozen squares at once. So many different lives to live, and if weren’t for the fact that they were silent enemies, Sonia would have liked to ask Mrs. Alfonso about 123 hers. About the university. The fundraisers for the children’s hospital. The trips to Disney World. Sonia swept the floors neatly and swept again and shook the leavings into the trash. Beside the wastebasket was a cardboard box labeled JUNCO. As often as Mrs. Alfonso gathered new trinkets, Mr. Alfonso disposed of old ones. Sonia carried this new batch of throwaways out to the back alley where several meninos de rua were plucking coins from the sidewalk, old centavos that had been discarded. One of the children Sonia had been watching for weeks, a dark girl with gray eyes. Usually the girl carried her baby brother in her arms like a doll. Sonia always offered them a can of milk, or a banana. Today the girl was alone. Where is your brother? Sonia asked. The girl shrugged. Up the street, a policia turned into the alley, hand on his baton. The girl dashed away, coins jangling in her pocket. It was midday when Sonia got around to cleaning toilets. She heard keys in the front door. Holding still, she watched her face waver in the toilet water. That first time with Mr. Alfonso had been here in the bathroom. Sonia had been singing to herself and didn’t hear the door open. Then a body was behind her, hands clutching her breasts. She felt his stubble scratch her neck, glimpsed their reflections in the mirror. Hers was an expression of pain, yet his face seemed to show pain also, so she told herself this is all how it’s supposed to be. She wanted it, but not like this. It had happened on six other afternoons since, always in the bathroom or the hallway. Now she peered out the bathroom door, expectant, saw Mrs. Alfonso walking from room to room. Where is my husband? she asked. 124 Perhaps working? Sonia said. How much did Mrs. Alfonso suspect? Enough to have Sonia removed from the maid’s quarters. She would have terminated Sonia’s contract entirely had Mr. Alfonso not convinced her that the children wouldn’t tolerate anyone else. You are done for today, Mrs. Alfonso said. Sonia left the bathroom, a lemon smell in her wake; Mrs. Alfonso stood at the front door, held it open as if Sonia were an odor she could air out. On the ride home, Sonia examined herself in the mirror, sweat trembling on her face as the bus rattled out of the city. She wished it would keep going, all the way to Uruguay, but when they reached Planalto the driver gunned the bus uphill until the engine shuddered and choked and finally the driver gave up, pulled the brake, and let passengers out there. Sonia continued uphill as the driver reversed carefully back down, kids kicking a bola against the side of the bus as if it were a moving goal. She weaved through the narrow alleyways. In the runoff stream that trickled between the houses, children raced paper boats. She mustered a wave and crossed the plank bridge home. Inside, the single room was dim. Her father sat in front of the television, tuned to the afternoon match, in one hand a bottle of Skol, in the other an aluminum meter stick. She kissed him hello and freshened the bags of ice on his knees. Weakened by the factory floor, his knees pained him too much these days to stand and adjust the television reception, so now and then when the field went fuzzy, he probed the rabbit ears with his meter stick until the picture came into focus. Did that man pay you today? he said. 125 Next week, Sonia said. Always next week, he said. Who knows what a cruzeiro will buy you next week? I have a date tonight, she said. Yes? he said. She heard the metallic rattle of an antennae adjustment. With who? A friend of Jackie’s brother, she said. A soldier, I think. So maybe the tide is turning around here, he said. Now if we can just get your brother back to work. Sonia didn’t want to hear him start in on this. She yearned to go to another room, but this wasn’t the Alfonso’s; there was no other room; the best she could do was step into the corner by her bed and hang the privacy curtain, her only wall. She sat on the bed, palm on her stomach, breathless. 126 I wore my only good clothes--khakis, dress shoes, a moderately wrinkled button up shirt. At 8:00 sharp, a charcoal-black town car pulled up to the corner. I peered through the tinted glass at the silhouette behind the wheel. Would Dom Ricardo come for me himself? For years I had imagined what my birth parents might have looked like, which one of them was the source of my eyes, cheeks, lips, hair. What must it be like to look into your parents’ faces and see your own? The passenger window rolled down. Behind the wheel, a fortysomething driver. The remaining seats were empty. Seu carteira de identidade, he said. I presented a photocopy of my U.S. passport, the original tucked in the nightstand upstairs. The driver rolled up his window. He dialed a cell phone. Then his door swung open and he walked briskly around to the rear passenger door and held it open for me. I took my seat inside. The driver pulled into the bumper to bumper traffic. No music, no conversation, only the subtle hum of the car as we circled the Lagoa toward Leme. Joggers and rollerbladers filled the bike paths, dressed in long pants and gloves against the morning cold, the morning routine. I was about to undergo a seismic shift, my life divided on a fault line, before and after I got in this car. The search for Sonia was a game of chance. 127 This was gravity pulling me toward the truth. What words would I say, in what language? Through the window, Cristo Redentor, arms outstretched to greet the rising sun. At red lights the driver lifted a comic book from his lap, lips moving as he read. At green lights he set the comic book aside, tapping his thumbs on the wheel as he drove. When he tossed the comic book in the glove box I knew we were close. He pulled the car up to a corner café. I reached for my door handle. Espera, he said. He stepped outside and opened my door. Did he know what was would unfold here, or did he think I was just another client on my way to meet Dom Ricardo. The table near the fountain, he said. At the café door, I touched the cold handle, took paused a moment to gather myself. In the chill morning air I saw my breath for the first time since I’d been in Rio. I swallowed it down and stepped inside. Near a ceramic fountain sat a woman wearing suit pants and sunglasses, a leather briefcase by her side like an obedient pet. She set down her cafézinho and dabbed her mouth with a napkin. I glanced up and down the row of tables. “Mr. Randolph,” she said in English, clear and crisp. She her sunglasses--icyblue eyes. Her short, straight black hair framed her face like a sheet of paper, red lipstick drawn with precision, as if without it, there might not be a mouth. There must be some mistake, I said. “I assure you there is no mistake,” she said. “And please, English suits for our purpose here.” 128 I took the seat across from her. “I suppose it goes without saying that I am not your father.” “When is he coming?” “First and foremost, we have to ask ourselves an important question. Can we ever be sure about anything that happened so many years ago?” “Yes,” I said. “We can. I have a friend who verified everything. He does this for a living.” “Ah, Daveison,” she said. She signaled to the busboy for another cafézinho. “Yes, there are dozens of Daveison’s in this city, looking to dredge up the past. A popular task these days, no? Tell me, how much are you paying this Daveison?” “So Dom Ricardo is afraid to meet me?” “Let’s just say that my client is willing to do whatever it takes to make this better.” She lifted her briefcase on the table, dialed in a combination. “No no no,” I said. “There’s been some misunderstanding. I just want to talk to him. An hour, half-an-hour is all. Just some questions.” “Surely you understand. Everyone has multiple lives. But wouldn’t you agree that sometimes the past is better left in the past? I’m sure you’ve had a wonderful life in America. Children? A wife perhaps? Perhaps your family could use a vacation. A wonderful, family vacation.” She turned the briefcase toward me. Five bundles of U.S. hundreds, arranged neatly on the felt. “You don’t understand,” I said. “This isn’t what I’m asking for. This isn’t what I want. I just want a few minutes with him. Five minutes. I’m sure he wants to see me, too.” 129 A genuine look of sincerity crossed her face like a passing cloud. “Mr. Randolph-” “--Peter.” “Mr. Randolph. Mistakes like this happen more often than you might believe. You must understand, this is a convenience for all involved.” Mistakes. There was that word again. Here was the proof. I was an illegitimate, a bastard to be tucked away, hidden. A lump of shame in my throat. This money. I could take it and find Sonia. But what if she still couldn’t be found? I stood to leave. “Let him know that I’ll be dropping by the office for a visit.” “Now Peter,” she said. “Listen very carefully. Threats are not helpful. You are a visitor here, remember? Perhaps you should take some time to think this over?” I left her behind at the table. My early departure took the driver by surprise. He flipped his comic book aside and scurried out to open the door, but I was past him. It was only nine o’clock, five o’clock back home. At this hour, Dad would be rising from bed, hands on his sore back, starting coffee for the day. The same way he’d risen bright and early for decades to bring me a life. And here I had betraying him. He was right. I never should have come. Now I wondered if Mom would have been better off taking this secret to the grave. On the corner I glanced around for street signs. I hadn’t paid close enough attention to where the driver had taken me. I jogged down one block, looking for landmarks, but here there was nothing familiar, no mountains, no Cristo Redentor, only anonymous streets, trucks, taxis, a charcoal black town car? The lawyer, peering through the glass, briefcase on her lap? Dom Ricardo, driving by for a glimpse of his gringo son? 130 Santa Teresa, Daveison’s apartment, a residential complex in São Cristobal, an apartment on the sixth floor. The elevator was a rusted out cage. I took a flight of stairs to his door and knocked hard three times. Peter! he said, peering through the crack in the door. I did not expect you here so fast. Wait here a moment while I clean up this place. He stepped away from the door, door chain intact. I peered through the crack to see him shuffling papers, cleaning up take-out cartons and pizza boxes. When he opened the door again he set two plastic bags of trash in the hallway outside and invited me in. This is your office? I asked. It’s hard to put a mailbox in a kombi, no? Sit, sit! Tell me what went wrong. As I explained, he leaned back in his seat, wiping crust from the corners of his eyes. I am so sorry, Peter. She made it seem like you’ve been cheating me, I said. Impossible, he said. We have an agreement. There is no need for you to pay me, not after something terrible like this. They will do anything, say anything to make you go away. They will try and turn you against me. This is all very common. Fuck the money, I said. I just want to talk to him. For Dom Ricardo it’s the money that does the talking, I’m afraid. The question is, what now? I say you might consider taking his offer. Perhaps we try again to find Sonia, we give her some sort of gift. I’m not going to let him just brush me aside. Not now. 131 Peter, he said. That’s not how it works here. A man like this always gets the way he wants. Five minutes, Daveison. Where can I find him? Even if I did know, it’s a bad, bad idea. Then you know where. Tell me, Daveison. You owe me this. Fine fine fine, he said. He loves to bet the horses. Fridays and Saturdays he spends at the track. He’s a patron of the Jóquei Clube Brasileiro, good friends with João Rafael. Daveison explained: João Rafael was treasured as one of the top three horsemen in the history of Brazil, and now that his racing days were over, he served as chief scout for the Gávea Jockey School. He found featherlight boys from around Brazil and brought them to Rio for training. Donating to João’s boys was a sign of great status. Men who mattered in Rio politics wore a green and yellow bow on their shirt pockets, proof that they supported Brazil’s landless rural class, that those kids deserved a chance to shine in the city, et cetera, et cetera. The largest benefactors had their names etched on bricks around the winner’s circle. One of those names was Dom Ricardo Alfonso. But I’m telling you Peter, Daveison said. It’s best to let me handle this. Emotions can be dangerous in these situations. The bedroom door creaked open. In the frame stood a young mulata with a sheet wrapped across her chest. Daveison waved her back inside. Think it over, he said. For now, get some rest, é? 132 That afternoon I got hammered. Not at a bar or in a café, but on the street. I walked the length of Nossa Señora de Copacabana like a kid on a scavenger hunt, looking for that next can of beer, that next caiparinha, that next anything I hadn’t tried before. Fuck it. I pissed four times in three hours--in a McDonald’s, in a KFC, and another McDonald’s. I stumbled through Lido, sex shops and strip clubs and hourly motels. If kids asked me for money, I raised my palm like a stop sign, until finally I so trashed nobody bothered to ask anymore. Fuck it. For six weeks I’d been prissing around this country, frothing with righteous anger, as if Brazil needed me, as if I were some prodigal son returned. Now I was on a mission to forget my name. Except there was no one to go wild with me. A drizzly Tuesday, the shops were closing, the coastline was gray and empty. Fuck it. By dark I was shitfaced at the only beachside kiosk that had bothered to stay open, sopping up the cachaça in my gut with a greasy slice of sausage pizza. You look like you’ve been dealt a broken heart, my waiter said. I was supposed to meet someone today. Stood up? he said. I know how that is. He walked from table to table, stacking chairs and folding up umbrellas. The only other customers were a couple of working girls sipping Guarana, applying their make-up for the night. Worse than stood up, I said. What’s the word I’m looking for? Abandoned. Believe me, meu mano. No matter what you say, I’ve heard worse. I wanted to prove him wrong. I called for another beer. When he delivered, I launched into a rant, a slurred half-English-half-Portuguese inventory of the past six 133 weeks: Mom and Dad, Sonia, Daveison and Casa de Esperança, Gary and Lapa and the fucking policia, the Sociedade Comercial and Dom Ricardo Alfonso and the Guardians of the Bay, Amazonas and Salvador, Damien and Dashawna, Quissamã and its manurestained helipad. The waiter took it all in patiently, polishing the plastic table to a high shine, refilling my beer glass when it ran empty. When I finished, I wiped my mouth. You know the saddest part of your story? he asked. What? You been here all this time and you ain’t had a Carioca woman yet. The working girls at the nearby table chuckled. When I glared they pretended they hadn’t been listening. Maybe you could use some company? I’m not here for that, I said. Oh I don’t mean girls like that, the waiter said. I know this club. No way, I said. I know all about the Howdy Howdy. It’s not like that at all, he said. This is just a regular club. Lots of good looking girls who like gringos. You don’t pay for anything. Maybe a few drinks. Breakfast. If she likes you, maybe you hang out again, no? I’m too drunk. Maybe tomorrow. Don’t be so cold, he said. From his apron he withdrew a cell phone, tapped a few buttons, showed me a picture on the screen. Wow. See? There’s tons of girls like that. They’ll love you, meu mano. You’re a gato. Can I have my check? 134 Whatever you say boss, he said. When he returned with the bill, he slipped me a flyer. Give them this and they’ll let you in for free. Worth a look, no? I took a cab. For once I didn’t give a shit about looking like a turista. The name of the club was Sombra. It was tucked in a back alley in Lido, a mirrored room with a low-ceiling, walls lined with booths, like a strip club without poles. A DJ in a Yankees cap stood behind a pair of turntables, mixing baile funk. The clientele was a mix of young black men and middle aged white guys, curled into booths with women of every size and stripe, stirring cocktails and making clipped conversation over the din of the music. These girls weren’t out for drinks and dancing, but they weren’t working, either. They were performers on that gray stage between escort and courtesan. Just yesterday the thought of a place like this would make me livid, but now I felt ridiculous for ever being so certain of anything. The past was the past. Brazil was Brazil. This was Copacabana, for Christ’s sake. Hot women everywhere, oozing sex. The men here didn’t deny the world. They were explorers. Conquer new places, fuck new women. Along the bar, women stood in pairs, dressed for the club, not the street corner. I stumbled along, trying not to linger too long on any one girl. Another batted her eyes, flittering of blue shadow. Another teased her straw with her tongue. I didn’t want to be lured, I wanted to choose. At the end of the bar stood a girl who reminded me of Ana Luiza--skin like café y crema, obsidian hair, a look in her dark brown eyes like she was sad to belong to this world. 135 “What’s your name?” I asked. “Nélida,” she said. “Do you buy me a drink?” We did not speak, we danced. The only things sweatier than our bodies were the drinks in our hands. One by one, the booths around us emptied. At three a.m. the DJ packed up his records. We fled to the street, ears ringing. The memories here are patchy. I remember trying to cross the street, almost being taken out at the knees by a cornering taxi. I laughed; my heart raced; I was new again, uma turista pura; even the simple rhythms of traffic eluded me. “Cars very dangerous,” Nélida said. “We go to hotel?” “I have an apartment,” I said. Que? Tenho um apartmiento. Vamos. Fala Português? Espera, espera. “Hold on. Let me look at you first.” “I never do this with stranger.” I wish I remembered. But I don’t. Even the name Nélida is only a guess. But I’m certain of this: Sticky with sweat, I rolled over and asked her a question. “Do you have any children?” I can’t understand you. Tem filhos? I hope you’re just drunk. 136 Tem? We just met. What if I just got you pregnant? Don’t talk like that. I’m here to have fun tonight. Just imagine, I said. What would you do with it? You’re a crazy babaca, you know that? she said. A new word, babaca, but before I could ask what it meant, I fell asleep. 137 Sonia wanted Jackie to stop talking. Believe me, Jackie said. It doesn’t hurt bad if they do it right. You know he’ll pay for it. Friday night, dusk, Jackie’s house. Their make-up kits rested on a stack of milk cans. Milk was getting more expensive by the day. Jackie’s family had been hoarding so that nearly every solid object in the home--the coffee table, the TV stand, even the bed frame--was an amalgamation of milk cans. It’s not about the money, Sonia said. Nothing is a question of money for him. Don’t be so sure, Jackie said. These banceros haven’t been careful with the country’s money. What makes you so sure he’s done good with his own? He’s an honest man. Really? Tell that to Mrs. Alfonso. That’s who you should worry about. You crossed the line. You should have learned better from your mother, rest her soul. You want the wives to respect you. How do you think I got my job? That woman just wanted you out of the house, Sonia said. Jackie’s last employers had recommended her for a job as a cleaner downtown. She had this life figured out. She was back in classes, learning to read and write. Soon she would be working as a clerk, or a typist. Options. 138 Maybe it could work, Sonia said. You watch too much TV, Jackie said, squeezing beside Sonia so they could both use the mirror. She applied her last touches of eyeshade. Jackie was always doing sexy things—blowing kisses, tossing her hair, nibbling her lower lip. Even leaning against a bus stop she looked sexy, hand on her hip, as if on display, perfect angles that required no thought. Jackie always said that the sexiest gestures came naturally, yet Sonia had never been able to discern her own. Sonia had been wondering lately what she had done to communicate her desires to Mr. Alfonso. The care she took with his shirts, perhaps? The way she met his eyes as she spooned sugar into his cup? Is this enough, o Senhor, or would you like a touch more? It’s not impossible. She’s not right for him. Don’t go thinking you did anything special to make him take you, Jackie said. But the way he looks at me— —the same way he looks at a plate of beef, Jackie said. She blocked Sonia’s view of the mirror, demanding her full attention. Just because his wife is a bitch doesn’t make you the queen. Clear your eyes before it’s too late. Jackie’s brother would chaperone again tonight. It seemed each weekend one of his friends finished military training and was looking for a girl. Jackie never complained. Free drinks, someone to dance with. A knock at the door. Jackie’s brother stood with two friends, each wearing their uniforms, buttons polished to impress, as if the girls had never seen soldiers in their lives. 139 Linda, linda, linda, Sonia’s date said. Red-faced, cachaça on his breath, he wavered on his feet as if some imagined wind were at his back. Give him a chance, Jackie said. She took her date by the arm. They started their evening with stew and choppe at a sidewalk café near Planalto. Now and then when a group left a table, their waitress gathered her tip, let the centavos drop to the ground. Children scurried from the shadows to pick up the coins. Sonia imagined Mr. Alfonso at the Banco, even now on a Friday night, trying to sort out this mess with the cruzeiros. You see what they’ve done with our money? Jackie said. The leadership knows what they’re doing, Sonia’s date said. Our country faces many challenges. Many. Especially now with those radicals. Careful, Jackie’s brother said. Sonia’s brother is on strike. He’s not a radical, Sonia said. I’m just saying, the drunken soldier went on. Do you think he would have any problem with his pay if he’d just stayed in the Army? Not everyone’s a soldier, Jackie’s date said. Half the men in this country, they sit around lazy all day watching futebol. Maybe he couldn’t cut it, Sonia’s date said. I know I could cut it. Three days in Amazonas. You know what they give you? A knife and three matches. That’s it for three days. You know, once, I heard a jaguar. Have another drink, meu mano, Jackie’s brother said. I’m just saying. He passed his new badge around the table. Now I can survive anything. 140 When Sonia’s brother turned eighteen they called him to the Army. Tonio left Planalto a skinny boy and returned, two years later, with arms thick as trees. He could cut it in the military all right. Trouble was, when Tonio thought of the military, he thought of all the problems in Brazil. The military ran a country that couldn’t provide medicine for their mother when she was sick, that couldn’t find better work for their father when his knees went weak. Come on, Jackie’s brother said, counting bills onto the table. All anybody does anymore is talk politics. Let’s go dancing. Exhausted, Sonia watched the night pass before her like a slow, dark river. With this baby inside, there should be no more drinking. They went to Estrella where her date spent more time at the bar than on the dance floor, and when finally he did dance, he moved like an oaf. He offered her drinks; she waved each away. He took her cachaça along with his, throwing both cups back in giant gulps, and soon he was heavy lidded, stepping on toes, flashing his badge to all the girls on the dance floor. On the way home to Planalto, he snored in the back seat. I’m sorry, Jackie’s brother said. He’s not always like this. Sonia’s father was asleep at the television, network finished for the day, grayscale bars silent on the screen. The ice bags were puddles at his feet. With her dirty apron she sopped up the water before curtaining herself into the corner for sleep. Sunday at church, Sonia prayed for her coming baby, for the strength to tell Mr. Alfonso. The child weighed inside her like a hot stone. During Mass, there was no 141 question that she would keep it. But she knew that by midweek, she would worry again that Jackie might be right. She prayed that Mr. Alfonso would acknowledge this child, a guilty prayer that he would leave his wife and come to her instead. The priest passed a collection tin along the half-empty pews, donations for the striking auto workers. After the tin went around once the priest sifted through the old cruzeiros like so much tissue and asked for novo cruzeiros, please. A few elderly members of the congregation counted novo cruzeiros into the tin, while others turned their pockets inside out or held their purses open like hungry mouths. Sonia second guessed her prayers. She was still owed two week’s pay. Maybe it was better to ask God for her salary instead. 142 I woke to a spinning room, head-split, putrid taste of limes in my mouth. Through the blinds, the pale pink of morning. Jangle of keys like an alarm clock. I looked over and saw Nélida, her face smeared with make-up, rifling through my bedside drawer. Wait, I said. She snatched my pants from the floor and hustled out of the room. I scrambled out of bed, wrapped myself in a sheet, and chased after, stomach lurching. Down the hallway, she stood in the elevator, frantically pressing buttons. The doors slid closed. I ran down seven flights of stairs, tripping over the bedsheet, stopping only to dry heave. On the first floor I hurried out the front gate, security guard still asleep in his bulletproof box. In first light, our neighborhood fruit vendor was just arranging his mangoes on a green carpet. He smiled at the sight of me doubled over in a sex-stained sheet. Did you see her? I asked. He pointed at a taxi already turning around the block. I couldn’t take another step without vomiting. The apartment complex was lined with neat landscaping, and I leaned into the bushes and let heave. Wiping my mouth, I turned and saw the fruit vendor waiting with a paper towel and a fresh mango. É gratis, he said. Maybe the rest of your day goes better, no? 143 I stepped out of the elevator back on the seventh floor and a pair of women skirted away as if I were some monster come to shore from the Lagoa. Some good Samaritan had closed my apartment door. Fuck me. Naked and keyless. If I’d had an ounce of moisture left in my body, I would have slumped on the floor and wept, but whatever liquids I had left I’d already upchucked into the bushes outside. My mouth was an acidic cocktail, my brain an overcooked egg. I shuffled downstairs to talk to the security man about a new key. The fresh morning seared my eyes. That was your only key? Yes. Yes it was. What about the one-handed fellow? He left like a month ago. He turned his key in to you, remember? This security guard did not inspire confidence. He followed me back up to the apartment. He stood at the door a moment as if deciding whether or not to kick it down. Instead he sorted through his keychain for the master, a shiny gold number that slid effortlessly into the deadbolt. That girl outsmarted you, he said. Sem. Yes. She did. You shouldn’t let women come back here. I know. That was stupid. That’s what motels are for. So can I have another key? 144 I’ll have to have a duplicate made. Come get it after you clean yourself up. Muito obrigado. He sauntered down the hallway, whistling between his teeth. At the elevator door her turned: And maybe you should drink a little less next time. She got everything. Wallet, credit cards, passport, driver’s license, extra cash. Everything except my clothes and my camera. So at least now I could look at pictures of Dan and Danny Delta smiling with their bucket full of piranhas. The only identification I had left was a fuzzy photocopy of my passport. This I took to the Western Union in Leblon, where I begged the woman to let me receive a wire without an original copy. I used the customer service phone to call Gary at school. The secretary who answered was the same grizzled lady who had been working the front office back when I was there. I asked for Coach Murphy, saying it was an emergency. After a long wait he came on the line. “Gary?” I said. “Sorry to interrupt your class.” “Meh. They’re just staining birdhouses.” “I need to borrow some money. Just a little bit. I’m having an issue with my bank cards.” “Hmmm,” Gary said. “Don’t you still owe me four-hundred dollars? I can’t seem to remember why…” “Gary, please. Just a couple hundred bucks.” “You’ll have to wait until B lunch.” “I’ll pay you back. Plus the bribe money. Plus more.” 145 “I know where you live,” he said. “By the way you sound like shit. Are you in trouble?” “It’s not appropriate for school,” I said. Gary wrote down the details. While I waited for his wire I walked to the American Express office at the Copacabana Palace. After answering three security questions--the street I grew up on, my mother’s maiden name, my best friend--they agreed to send a replacement card to the Rio office in 14-21 days, but I could only pick it up with official documents. Back at the Western Union, Gary’s wire was in, $1,218.12, along with a message: It’s time to come home. I didn’t even want to think about the clusterfuck waiting for me at the consul, a walk of shame complete with bureaucratic spanking. For the next three days I sat in the apartment, imagining how Nélida was spending my cash, running around town, joking with her friends about the gringo she ripped off. But that anger quickly gave way to shame. I’d turned my back on my better self. I deserved to be taken advantage of, for my ignorance, for my arrogance. But I couldn’t leave just yet. I wasn’t finished with Dom Ricardo. I wanted to punish him, for walking away from Sonia, for humiliating me, for having the power to hold us at arm’s length. I knew I could find him at the track. That Friday, I bought a crisp new dress shirt at the Copacabana outlets. I had my shoes shined at the Metro. When the sun went down, I took a taxi to the Jóquei Clube Brasileiro. 146 In the lounge overlooking the brightly lit horse track, I recognized old Manny Gilberto, PR man from the Sociedade Comercial de Rio Novo. He was laughing it up at a mahogany table with three other elites, yellow and green bows pinned to their shirt pockets. I eavesdropped from a stool at the bar. Soon it was obvious which one was Dom Ricardo. He the man setting the pace of the drinking, the man who ordered fresh ice to the table, the man who spoke infrequently, but who captivated the table anytime he opened his mouth. Beer sweating in my palms, I watched and listened, trying to extract the courage to approach the table. When Manny Gilberto glanced toward the bar, I turned away, afraid to be recognized. All afternoon the city had been wrapped in clouds and rain. Now the air was clear and hot, the damp track dimpled with hoofmarks. The men had nearly finished a bottle of Johnny Walker, and leafed through their programs, choosing horses for the 7th race. A petite man arrived, posture perfect to squeeze every inch from his frame. João Rafael, the former Grand Prix champion. He greeted each man in turn, and then, arms folded across his chest, gazed down at the next set of horses trotting from the barn. Those programs won’t tell you everything, João said. Look at number eight. He’s off-kilter tonight. The horse or the jockey? Dom Ricardo asked. The horse, João said. My boys are never off-kilter. The mud-colored thoroughbred broke into an uneven canter, his tiny jockey struggling for calm. He looks good to me, Dom Ricardo said. High Tide--that’s a strong name. It says here he’s been getting faster every week. 147 Dom Ricardo studied his race booklet, and I studied him. We looked more alike than I’d ever imagined--lanky builds and square faces, dark brown curls and deep-set eyes. Or maybe I was only seeing what I wanted to see. A blood relative--uncanny, disarming. My righteous anger melted away, and now I only wanted to be closer to him, to ask him a simple question: Do you know who I am? The PA system crackled: Five minutes left to place bets. João helped Dom Ricardo and his friends choose trifectas. High Tide! Dom Ricardo said, defying the jockey’s recommendation. He stood from the table, a bit wobbly from the whiskey. Mark my words on this one! I paid for my cerveja and followed him to the cage where dozens of men assembled to place bets, their shoes reflecting the overhead light. I fell into line directly behind him. Tiny drops of sweat glistened on the back of his neck, and I could feel my own sweat percolate. We were around equal height, six footers, but I had him by an inch. Now he stepped to the betting window, a whiskey smile for the girl behind the cage. Number eight to win, he said, slapping a hundred real bill on the countertop. The monitors above the window showed the odds on High Tide at 35:1. Some doors, once you open them, they can’t be closed. Hand shaking, I tapped Dom Ricardo on the shoulder. He turned as if I were a pickpocket. At once his face softened. Recognition? O Senhor, I said. You should bet for him to place. It’s less of a long shot. He glanced around as if security had made a grievous error by letting me upstairs. You should mind your own bets, he said. 148 I’m betting High Tide, too, I said. But he looks a little off-kilter today, no? Two more minutes to place bets. Vamos ver, Dom Ricardo said, taking his ticket. The woman called me to the cage. I placed a fifty real bet for High Tide to place. If he finished first, second, or third, I was a winner. I returned to my stool at the bar and ordered another cerveja. João Rafael paced, nervous for his young jockeys. The PA announced that betting had closed. Down on the field, the jockeys lined up in their stalls. In the grandstands below, thousands clutched their tickets, five real bets, ten real bets, folding their hands in prayer. My fifty real bet felt brash and reckless, American at its core, and for a second I wished I would have saved that money for one of the meninos sleeping under palm leaves on the streets outside, contrition for the night with Nélida. Dom Ricardo and his friends stood, drinks in hand, to watch the race from the overlook. Not one of them was steady on his feet. High Tide jostled in his gate. The bell sounded. The horses leapt forward. They hammered past the roaring grandstands, jockeys on their heels, fighting for position. João Rafael shouted for his boys, each in turn, like a father who refused to choose a favorite son. High Tide fell to sixth, trapped outside, struggling for a path along the rail. Dom Ricardo threw back his drink, clutched the empty glass in his hand. The horses thundered around to the backstretch, hooves carving clumps of dirt. The pace was blistering. High Tide’s jockey retreated to the outermost path. Puta que pariu! Dom Ricardo shouted. 149 High Tide fell three lengths behind the leaders. The jockey whipped him forward, the horse surging into long, predatory lunges. They neared the turn, two lengths behind the leaders. Cutting inside, the jockey found an opening two paths from the rail. He entered the homestretch in third, one length behind the leaders, now in second, only a neck behind. Vai vai vai vai vai vai vai! Dom Ricardo shouted A photo finish seemed inevitable, but High Tide charged as the pack faded. High Tide crossed the finish line ahead by a neck. João Rafael whistled like a bird. Groans and cheers spilled from the grandstands. Dom Ricardo thrust his arms skyward, ice cubes tumbling from his glass. João Rafael slapped him on the back and hurried down to the winner’s circle to greet his jockeys. The men returned to their seats and poured the last of their bottle. Standing behind his chair, Dom Ricardo raised his glass. Looking my direction, he offered a toast to High Tide. The men inhaled their whiskey. Dom Ricardo sauntered to the bar. I pulled out the empty stool beside me. Whatever there was to say here, I didn’t know the words, not in Portuguese, not in English. Another bottle, he told the bartender. He sized me up, smug, as if maybe now I should leave. It looks like we’re both winners, I said. Off-kilter? he said. Filho da puta! It was only nerves. It’s good to be nervous sometimes. 150 Monday morning I contacted João Rafael at the Gávea Jockey School and explained that I was a journalist from Sports Illustrated, hoping to interview him about his charity. We met that afternoon at a portable classroom adjacent to the barns at the track. Afternoon classes had just ended, and now we walked from stall to stall. Scouting for the Jockey School, João Rafael had transplanted dozens of children from the campo to the city to learn the high art of horseracing. Tiny boys of all shades stood on stools beside their horses, grooming the animals and placing tiny saddles on their backs. One boy with his arm in a sling brushed his horse with one hand. Como vai hoje? João asked. Muito melhor, o senhor, the boy said. Estou listo. Logo, meu filho, the jockey said, and led me along. Broken arm? I asked, notebook in hand. Nothing that can’t mend. In the long run, it’s good to take a big fall. It builds guts. Any monkey can ride a horse, he told me. Guts cannot be taught. In the last stall of the barn, another teacher was instructing boys seated on bales of hay how to turn back and look under their shoulder without turning their backs. Out on the track, the older boys were beginning their warm-ups, cantering along the backstretch. We give them a fine education, steady room and board. 151 And the parents? The parents are happy to see their boys become Carioca. It is a dream to send their children to Rio. Each winter, João toured the nation in search of those rare, birdlike young men who might become Grand Prix champions. But there was doubt in his voice. Perhaps he knew that the Carioca promise was empty as a broken egg. João himself had been adopted into racing himself as a child. In the folds of his heart, he must have known that a boy can never leave his original life behind, no matter how far he travels, no matter how many races he wins. The jockey summoned the boys to the fence line. They lined by age. He introduced them one by one. This man is going to take your pictures for Sports Illustrated, he said. Let’s show him how tough we can be! I clumsily explained that a photographer would come along later. Disappointed, the boys went back to their routines, the younger perched on the fences with stopwatches, timing the older riders as they thundered down the homestretch. I’m sorry, I said. I didn’t mean to get their hopes up. These boys don’t hope, they train, João said. We make them no promises. Most of them will win a purse or two in the pony circuits. They will return to their villages, buy zinc roofs for their family home, maybe new plots of land. These years in Rio will be stories for their grandchildren. And the best of them? 152 The best of them will rise to the junior leagues in São Paolo or Belo Horizonte. They will get homesick. They will try to convince their mothers and fathers to move to Rio, which never happens, at least not for long. Why not? Their parents struggle to do the simplest things here, he said. Shopping for fruit, crossing the street. It’s a different world than the campo. And here’s where it takes guts: To win in Paris or Sydney or Louisville. I’ve seen it end one of two ways--a promising rider who surrenders his career, too terrified to leave Brazil, or else a Grand Prix champion who knows how to order caviar, but who can’t find his village on a map. And how do you feel about that? I asked. He looked at me with a keen glint in his eyes. I teach my boys how to win races, he said. When it comes to the family, they make their own choices. We carried our conversation over to the Photofinish, the bar outside the race grounds. In the entryway was a large glass enclosure with scale-models of all the Grand Prix champions from the Jóquei Clube Brasileiro, jockeys and thoroughbreds suspended in youth and glass. The jockey leaned into the display, polished the glass with his shirtsleeve. Guess which one is me? he asked. This one? I said. In miniature, they all looked the same. He is a common slob, he said. He pisses his fortune away on the stock market. That one? I said. No no no. That man squanders his good name advertising for energy drinks. Do you give up? 153 I give up. It was a trick question anyway. There are three João Rafaels. Here, here, and here. These horses were my truest partners. Bandido Vermelho, Ace of Hearts, and Sky’s the Limit. Are you writing this down? Got it, I said, scribbling notes. We sat in a small booth in the corner. It was immediately obvious that the jockey preferred conversation sitting down, where he was on more equal stature. My philanthropy is a labor of the spirit, he said. I certainly don’t need the money. I want to leave a legacy. I never had children, you know. A lot of women, but no children. Tell me more about your charity, I asked. It is tough on these boys, coming here to Rio, he said. They cry. They struggle. We gather money so that they can return home on occasion, the younger boys especially, the older boys, for holidays and funerals. A gorgeous waitress came over to deliver our sandwiches and beer. João Rafael stood for her and touched his toes. I’ve still got it! he called after her. She giggled and walked away. That one has had a crush on me for a long time, he said, winking. And your donors? he asked. All wonderful men, João Rafael said. They understand how important it is these boys have the chance to come to the city. Grand Prix champion or not. You receive a lot of support from the Sociedade Comercial de Rio Novo, I asked. I thought this was Sports Illustrated? he asked, not the Jornal do Wall Street. 154 We want to give these generous men the credit they deserve. The giving is its own reward, don’t you agree? A few quotes about why they give, that’s all I’m looking for. You must understand, I value my donors. A wealthy man in Rio de Janeiro is always being hounded for money from one person or another. They count on me to respect their privacy. We finished our sandwiches. I promised him that a photographer would be coming by in short order. He confessed that he would be out of town the rest of the week, a recruiting trip. When tonight’s races finished, as soon as the horses were rubbed down and put away, he would hail a cab to the airport, off to this week’s destination, perhaps a small river village near Belem, a lost gold town in Minas, a cattle ranch in Espiritu Santo, always on the lookout for right-sized, right-hearted young men, and of course for women of a certain age who might recognize him from the glory days. I spent the next day scouting out the jockey’s Leblon neighborhood. These were not the art-nouveau complexes of Copacabana, nor the suspended colonial mansions of Jardim Botánico. These were swank, urban high-rises--marble facades and smoked glass, polished brass balconies and A/C units that rained cold drops onto the sidewalks. This afternoon the sidewalk cafes brimmed with playboys and young businessmen, ties loosened, beer glasses sweating. Women in gym suits strutted past, on display for the infinite cocktail hour. João’s doorman was a lanky, fresh-faced red head who took pride in his polished shoes. By day he wore a constant smile, on the alert for his tenants, sun-dried former 155 beach beauties who shopped in the morning and returned after lunch hour, laden with boutique bags, eager to apply their afternoon make-up. I overheard them ask the doorman where the jockey was traveling this time. I imagined these women loved listening to his Paris stories. The doorman never revealed João’s whereabouts, but otherwise delighted the women by complimenting their perfumes or jewelry or cellular phones, and by asking about their children, but never their grandchildren. One of the doorman’s ladies emerged from the building, a Yorkshire terrier peeking from her purse. The doorman was feeding the dog a treat, piece by piece, when without even a clap of thunder, clouds swamped the sun, and rain thrummed the pavement. Now the doorman scurried to open an umbrella for the woman and her dog. I sought shelter in a public phone, its privacy dome like a giant eggshell, and there waited out the rain. As afternoon turned to dusk, the rain let up, and the red headed kid was relieved by a night watchman, a young black kid with a portable radio and an aluminum lunchbox. Traffic in and out of the building thinned, and by dusk he was free to eat. He kept a bottle of hot sauce under his check stand, and took his time eating his rice and kabobs, enthusiastically wielding an electric fly swatter, blue spark of death for the insects that swarmed his plate. Later, when the streets were quiet, he turned the valet security monitor over to the Flamengo match, fell asleep still clutching that bug-crispy swatter, as if even in slumber he dared any mosquito in Rio to cross him. I woke him: Com licença, I asked. I need the key to João Rafael’s apartment. It’s an emergency. The boy wiped his eyes, flipped through the registry. 156 He didn’t leave a note. It wouldn’t be an emergency if he had time to leave a note, now hurry up. What’s the emergency. It’s a personal matter. Now please. I have to phone my supervisor. Do I look like a thief to you? I asked. “Would a thief be speaking English?” Me entendes? Puta que pariu, you’re wasting my time. Hand me the phone. I want to call speak to your supervisor myself. Panic crossed the boy’s face. He glanced around, as if someone might appear and tell him what to do. He sifted through his registry and the drawer of keys in check stand and presented me with a shiny gold key, labeled with tape, 777. Please don’t get me in trouble, he said. I ignored him and pushed my way through the revolving doors. Avoiding the elevator attendant, I took the stairwell. I felt like shit for bullying the kid at the door, but the fact that this plan was working was enough to convince me that this wasn’t a dipshit idea, and a surge of confident propelled me two-steps at a time to the seventh floor. At the end of the hallway, a picture window view of the Lagoa, my apartment somewhere building among the lights across the lagoon. I found 777 and slipped inside. The jockey’s apartment was spacious and clean. A trophy case glimmered on the far wall, surrounded by a collection of black and white photographs from his years in Europe: shaking hands with jovial politicians and footballers; posing in the winner’s circles in Longchamp, Sussex, and Goodwood; carrying a raven-haired woman, piggyback style, across the Champ de Mars. 157 On an oak desk in the jockey’s office sat an old typewriter. A stout black file cabinet in the corner. The paper trails of dozens of boys, taken from all corners of Brazil. Astounding how much of life can be contained in a single folder, how much can be omitted. Descriptions of villages, names and heights and weights of their mothers and fathers, results of physical and mental examinations, photocopies of notarized agreements--children transferred to the guardianship of the Gávea Jockey School. Filed under a separate paperclip were the records of their new lives: science and math exams, essays written in French and English, orthodontia charts, X-rays of broken bones, detailed logs of last season’s lap times. I was halfway through a ledger of deposits when there was a knock at the front door. Open up, a voice called. I know you’re in there. I crept to the entrance. In the peephole, head oblong like a quail egg, the featherweight transit cop from Lapa. I’m watching this place for a friend, I said through the door. Você cheio de merda, he said. Don’t make me call my bosses. Fastening the golden chain lock, I opened the door a crack. Look, I said. I can take care of you again. Just give me fifteen minutes. He kicked open the door. The impact sent me on my ass. He fell on top of me, yanked my arm behind my back. Handcuffs clicked around my left wrist. Whoa whoa whoa, I said. Let’s talk this out. No time for chit chat, he said. Give me your other hand. I’ve got money. 158 He ratcheted my arm up higher until I complied. He pulled me from the ground and pushed me out the hallway into the elevator. On the way down, I glanced at his nametag: Silva. Listen, Silva, I can get you cash. Do you even know how to shut up? Back on the street, the doorman glared at me, touched the corner of his eye with his index finger. We turned the corner. There, waiting for me, was Big Boy, stuffed into his bullet proof vest. He leaned against a black, unmarked, windowless van. A green beret sat on his head like the crown of a tomato. You get a promotion? I asked. He hit me open-palmed across the face. You think just because you’re American you can be funny with everyone? Silva unlatched the van door. Inside, he said. From his pocket the cop pulled a small black hood. Give me your head. Please, I said. You don’t have to do this. I said give me your head. I leaned forward. He slipped the unwashed hood like a stinky sock over my head. The instant he slammed the door, rain began again, needles on the roof. The engine turned. The axels groaned on the passenger side. Through the wall I heard them crank up the stereo, FM 101.3 Transamerica. They both sang along. One of them shook his keychain along with the congas like a tambourine. It sounded pretty good, actually, like if their lives had spun some other way, they might have been sambanistas. 159 The van stuttered through traffic. In the back, I crouched to the sticky floor, hyperventilating under the scratchy hood. Acalma, calm down, breathe. The rush of passing traffic--air brakes, sizzling mopeds, a cacophony of horns. In the darkness I concentrating on our turns, tried to pinpoint our location, a childhood game from back in Partway, eyes closed in the backseat as Mom and Dad drove us into town, predicting our final destination--the feed barn, the grocery store, the Big R Supply. But that was dirt roads and highway, straight lines. This ride felt like a long, slow spiral. My only clue was the rain needling the roof, going silent during a long tunnel. Would a real Carioca hear the difference between Zuzu Angel or Rebouças? It was hopeless. We could be going anywhere. I heard Silva radio to his supervisors, a muffled hiss and crackle. Nothing to do but wait. How much would this take? I had almost a thousand dollars back in the apartment, but unlike the night in Lapa, I had broken the law this time. How long had they been following me, waiting for another easy pinch? Now gravel snapped in the wheel wells. The van rumbled down a long road, water splashing the mud flaps. We rolled to a stop. I felt Big Boy step out of the car, axels sighing with relief. A squeaky gate opening. We passed through and stopped 160 again--Big Boy closing the gate. Parking. The engine ceased, the doors opened and slammed. Okay, I called through the door. You can let me out now! Nothing. There was no way to explain my presence in the jockey’s apartment. Daveison would have to bail me out. Was this a misdemeanor? A felony? I could already a looming weight overhead, the way a mosquito must sense a rising hand. I felt my way to the door and kicked. Ja! Qualquer vocěs querem! The door swung open, a rush of damp air on my face. Someone twisted the wrist of my right hand. Pain bolted to my elbow until I felt it might snap. Do you want me to break this? Big Boy said. No no no no no, I said. Please. Please. We can do this another way. Let’s go back to my apartment. We already did. He let go of my finger and yanked off my hood. My eyes adjusted to a gravel parking lot, sodium lamp tinting our skin green. Big Boy pulled me down by the handcuffs, whistling as if walking a dog. He pushed me into a parking structure. Neat rows of military police trucks, impounded vehicles askew in their spaces. We entered a door emblazoned with the shield of the Ministério de Segurança Publica. On the other side, a short hallway crowded with a foosball table, a weightlifting bench, and a vending machine. Two cadets stood at the machine. Slender in their outsized uniforms, both gazed as we passed, scratching their peach fuzz beards. Then they returned their attention to the vending machine, trying to filch a bag of chips from the mechanical claw. 161 The hallway led to a small barrack, half a dozen bunks, a neatly kept desk at the forefront, an observation window that peered into the next room. Seated there was a white haired lieutenant, puzzling over a game of Sudoku. He rose from his chair and checked me in like an unwelcome package, leaving two long scribbles on the ledger where I was supposed to have signed my name. Before I could protest, Big Boy pushed me through a frosted door into a wide, dimly lit room. On one side was a kitchenette with a television showing the Flamengo highlights. In the center, a card table surrounded by four chairs. In the far corner, like an after-thought, a cage of white, cast-iron bars. A dozen or more men were crammed inside, clamoring for food, for water, for the volume to be raised on the television. Everything I knew about Brazilian law I could write on a fingernail, but I understood one thing clearly: a police lock up is the worst place to land, limbo between the street and the courtroom, half jail, half rec room. Anything goes. Get inside, Big Boy said. We don’t got no room, one of the prisoners said, a broken-toothed crack head, thin as a skeleton dipped in wax. His companions looked no better. A transvestite with smeared make up, a broken nose, blood on his skirt. A naked man, fingers swollen purple, squatting over a tin bucket. Leaning against the rear wall, a few brittle men, rank clothes like crust. Oi! You have to let me call the U.S. Consulate. Big Boy looked confused, the gravity of those words sinking in. He uncuffed one hand and clicked that ring to a cage bar. The twin cadets stood at his back, passing around a bag of chips. All three stared like I was a circus animal about to perform a trick. 162 With my free hand, I untucked my travel belt, withdrew a fuzzy photocopy of my passport. Big Boy snatched the paper--a black and whites of my passport and driver’s license. I felt cheap. Exposed. But enough with the ruse. This cell stank like tooth decay and rat shit. Bring on Uncle Sam. I’d always known the value of U.S. Citizenship. I wasn’t naturalized until the sixth grade, when Mom showed up at the classroom door in the middle of Tuesday spelling review. In the days, weeks, months, and years following my adoption from Brazil, Dad neglected to submit a simple but critical form, which would have granted me U.S. citizenship without ceremony. That morning, via certified mail, Mom had received a sternly worded letter from the United States Citizenship and Immigration Services. The deadline for submitting that form was my 10th birthday. We had 28 days to complete the process via standard immigration protocol, or I will be returned to my country of origin. “Oh my,” Ms. Trumpet said. “This sounds like an emergency. How exciting!” She added naturalize to chalkboard. My classmates flipped through their dictionaries and groaned. In a single afternoon, like kids scrambling to turn in homework, we got fingerprints and photographs. We walked the aisles of the Bi-Mart, looking a decent set of clothes so that I can look my best for the judge. That night, at dinner, Dad put the finishing touches on the paperwork. “You have to decide,” he says. “Do you want to be a full U.S. citizen, or do you want dual citizenship.” 163 “What’s the difference?” “If you choose full U.S. citizenship, it means exactly that. You are a full U.S. citizen.” I thought about the cranberry sauce I spilled on Uncle Rob’s carpet at Thanksgiving, his threat to send me back to South America. Full U.S. might shut him up. “And dual citizenship?”. “That means that you have U.S. citizenship, and Brazilian citizenship.” “I’m not sure,” I say. “Do you want Brazil to be able to send you to a war?” Dad said. “Don’t scare him,” Mom said. “You have to decide.” “Full U.S.,” I say. “Are you sure?” Mom asks. “We don’t have time to debate this.” “Jesus, Michael! If you had done this when you were supposed to--” And this is when you send me to my room. Ear to the door, I listen. Something about big mistakes. I slid open my bedroom window and removed the screen, just like the Fire and Emergency Action Plan that I designed as homework. The moon was high in the air, casting tree-shadows on the snow. I followed the irrigation canal to the highway. Brazil was south. If I could get to the Highway, I could hitchhike. At the sight of headlights at my back, I dove into the frosty bushes. Mom and Dad followed my prints in the snow. The next morning, slack faced, we loaded up the truck, drove past St. Charles Medical Hospital, where all my friends were born, and headed over Mt. Hood pass. 164 Portland streets were slick with freezing rain. I had never been in a building made entirely of stone. “Pay attention,” Dad said. “This is serious.” We shuffled from room to room, speaking with this or that clerk. Finally we were led to a courtroom where I file into a row of Koreans and Mexicans. Just like in The People’s Court, the bailiff told us to rise, and we did. No problem. I could do serious. The judge asked us to raise our hands and repeat some stuff after him. We all said the Pledge of Allegiance, just like I did every day at school. All around us, cameras flashed. I turned around and saw that my grandparents. Even Uncle Rob showed up. I wondered if Grandma would still call me her Brazilian coffee bean. Dad glared, motioned for me to turn around and face the judge. We were declared citizens. The courtroom burst into applause. The bailiff passed out tiny American flags. Even the bailiff, a man with arms like giant fleshy cannons, was waving a tiny flag. That night, Mom came into my bedroom with a little Brazilian flag, and a little plastic flag holder with two holes. You inserted the U.S. and Brazilian flags, side by side, and set the totem on my nightstand. “This way you always remember where you came from.” Big Boy turned down the television and sat at the card table, examining the documents. I imagined the consul would dispatch a staff of diplomats to demand my release. U.S. foreign relations, terrifying under God. Nesceu aqui? he asked. Carioca de gema, I said. 165 Mas vocé é Americano? Foi adoptado. Mas fala Português? He tilted his head, a mystified look, as if I were a peculiar amphibian. Espera, he said, retreating to the front desk. He showed the forms to Silva, who raised his eyebrows. They passed the papers across the desk to the white-haired lieutenant. That’s right. Verify that shit. The lieutenant wasn’t happy to abandon his Sudoku. He squinted at the documents and then at my face. Sitting at his computer, he keyed in some information, lifted up the phone. Finally. I breathed easier. These interrogations were familiar territory. I’d faced the same questions from consuls, financial aid representatives, consuls, doctors, dentists, guidance counselors, teachers, kids on the playground, even my friend’s parents. Even Gary’s mom grilled me once, when I was nine-years-old. She’d known me my entire life, but it was as if she’d been waiting all this time to ask me: “So, Peter,” she said, spooning out a bowl of tomato soup. “How do you feel about your parents? You must really love them.” “They’re just my parents.” “Isn’t that sweet. You must feel so blessed.” “I guess,” I said, staring at my reflection in the steaming bowl, wondering how come people were always telling me how so blessed and so lucky I was, as if I were a foundling saved from the gutter, dusted off and shipped to the land of honey and milk. I remember standing in Gary’s hallway, examining the procession of family photographs, 166 the astonishing resemblance from photo to photo. A strand of DNA spiraling along the wall, great grandparents to grandparents to parents to Gary. “Your great grandpa had one hand, too?” “Quit looking at that,” he said. “It’s like the Wall of Shame.” But did he realize how so blessed and so lucky he was to have this hallway? A family chronicle, a sense of weight, a bloodline. I hated that; I wanted that. I’d appeared from thin air, an explosion still ringing in my ears. The inmates whistled, squeezed up to the bars for a closer look at me. The broken-toothed man reached through the bars for the travel belt like maybe I papers for him, too. Não toque, I growled, trying to make myself big. Peering into the barracks, I saw the white-haired lieutenant on the phone, mouth moving, soundless through the glass. Finally he set down the phone and returned to our room. In the kitchenette, he rummaged through the refrigerator: several brown paper bags with names scrawled on the sides, an assortment of juice boxes, a twelve pack of beer, an egg, and a few tiny medicine bottles that looked like the serum Mom used to inject into the newborn lambs. The lieutenant sniffed a few lunch bags before settling on a juice box. He dragged a chair from the card table, placed it backwards in front of the cell. He speared his juice box, took a long sip before speaking: You know, he said. It’s illegal to be without documents. Especially when you’re nosing around someone else’s apartment. 167 My name is Peter Randolph. I’m a U.S. citizen. I demand to speak with the consul. My name is Peter Pan, he said. Or Homer Simpson. Photocopies, duplicates, they just aren’t sufficient. What with technology these days, we can all make up our names. He crumpled up the photocopy and tossed it over my head and into the cell. The inmates scrambled. The only proof of me, within seconds, torn to shreds on the floor. Time for another tactic: Look, I’m not just some regular gringo. I was born here. I know all the swear words. Puta, merda, boceta, quenga, tarraqueta… The lieutenant chuckled. Silva and Big Boy and the twin cadets fell into laughter. The inmates behind me hollered and stomped their feet. I can even do tongue twisters--Três tigres tristes para três pratos de trigo. Três pratos de trigo para três tigres tristes. See? He’s pretty good, no? Silva said. Carioca de gema, I said. But you just said you were Americano, the lieutenant said. Clearly we have some complications here. Born here, raised in America. Lucky you, the lieutenant said. But you know, they say God is Brazilian. Please, I said. Just call the consul. We can have everything fixed. I hid the originals back at my apartment. Passport. Visa. Driver’s license. Everything. We can go there right now. Really, Nélida had everything, but I’d say anything to keep from being shoved in that cell. It was easier to lie in Portuguese. 168 The lieutenant sucked down the last of his juice box. There will be time, he said. As you can see, we are very busy around here. Big Boy uncuffed me from the cage and opened the cell gate. Listen, I said. This is a huge mistake. In, he said. There’s no more room! one of the inmates said. Leaning against the refrigerator was a length of sugar cane. Silva grabbed it and smacked it several times against the bars until the men pressed back, as if making space in an elevator. Always more room, Big Boy said. He shoved me inside and slammed the cage door closed. Whistles and clicking tongues from the inmates. The lieutenant stood and replaced his chair at the card table. He selected another juice box from the fridge. Tomorrow you have a visitor coming, he said, piercing his drink with a straw. You’re in some special kind of trouble, no? 169 In the wake of the naturalization debacle, Ms. Trumpet reserved a portion of our history lesson as an opportunity for me to explain immigration to the class. “Tell us,” she said. “What did it feel like?” My national origins had previously been a curious footnote to the first day of school, when our new teachers would invariably stumble over my middle name (Ow-rajew?) but now Ms. Trumpet unrolled the pastel shaded world map over the chalkboard so that everyone was crystal clear how far Rio de Janeiro was from St. Charles Medical Hospital. “It felt weird I guess.” “Weird how?” Ms. Trumpet waited to see if there was anything else I might add, and when she saw my dumbstruck expression, she turned to the class: “Well it’s a lot for us to think about. Just remember how lucky you all are! United States citizens without having to do anything!” That afternoon I decided anything that made me different had to go. In the tack room out in the barn, I plugged in the electric clippers we used to shear the sheep. Off went my curls. Mom heard the buzzing, opened the door and saw the black shock of hair on the floor. “Peter, what have you done,” she said, gathering them up in her hands as if 170 she could put them back on. She looked at me, tears pooling: “Someday a girl is going to want to run her hands through these curls.” I wasn’t going to let Brazil shadow me in junior high. A new school with new teachers, a chance to re-invent myself. Fitting in became priority one. On the first day of class, before the bell rang, I was careful to advise each teacher that Aúrajo was a misprint, and I lingered over their shoulder until they struck the name from their roster. From now on, if anyone asked, I was born at St. Charles like everyone else. It seemed to work. My old classmates from Ms. Trumpet’s class were too occupied with their budding breasts and sprouting pubes to nourish the myth that I was an alien. Being Brazilian became like gravity--essential, but ultimately forgettable. I was good ol’ Pete, American country boy. Riding horses and fishing for rainbow trout. Fattening up a pig to sell at county fair. Changing pipe in the summer, bucking hay in the fall. Oiling my cowboy boots for Sisters Rodeo weekend. Collecting arrowheads and Garth Brooks tapes. Wading in the Little Deschutes River, searching the rocky bottom for crawdads. Just as I was conscious of gravity only when falling or flying, I only considered my history when forced. Every year around Memorial Day weekend, Abigail Long made a visit to Partway. I always knew she was coming when I’d return home from school to discover my bedroom closet in immaculate order, a stack of cardboard boxes sealed up in the hallway. 171 “It’s all stuff you haven’t touched in a year,” Mom would say when I protested. “The kids at Esperança can use those kinds of things.” Use them for what? Why anyone would want a chewed up GI Joe or a grassstained pair of Wranglers was beyond me. Whenever Memorial Day rolled around, we’d pack the cooler and drove out to the farm where Ana Luiza lived, following a trail of signs that her parents, Dale and Janice Schremp, had painted and hung themselves. They were animal lovers and entrepreneurs and owned a large plot of land east of Partway called the Little Explorers Petting Farm. Among their stock were dozens of animals that required special permits to own: reindeer, pot bellied pigs, llamas, emus, and even a pair of mountain lions, off-limits for petting. As we turned into their epic gravel driveway, ostriches emerged from the brush to peck at the windows. Finally, the road descended into a wide, neighborless valley, and if I was glad to arrive, it was only to see Ana Luiza. This was my one chance each year. At school we occupied separate worlds, me in regular education, she in her special class. The teachers called it Life Skills; the students called it the retard room. But Ana Luiza wasn’t that far behind. After six years in the U.S., she spoke English with a slight impediment, but she was a voracious reader of Choose Your Own Adventure books. Except she was prone to violent outbursts. Once each semester the administration would experiment with letting her eat lunch with the general population. Like a ticking bomb, she sat at a corner table. Everyone whispered, made fun of her accent, stared at the scars on her arms and face. “Don’t you know that girl?” kids would ask. 172 “Nope,” I said, eyes on my calzone. I took enough shit for being best friends with the one handed kid. The last thing I needed was to be associated with a girl who was in 7th grade at age 14. Before long Ana Luiza would be on the cafeteria floor clawing at one of the girls, blood on the tile. Even the janitors were afraid to get close. Back to the retard room. But every Memorial Day weekend, I had the chance to see her up close, free from the crucible at school. She would lead me through the petting zoo, and if I was lucky, tell me a bit of what she remembered from Brazil. Stories from Esperança. Soccer games, hair cut days, the fado de diente who left thin mint candies underneath your pillow when you lost a tooth. I listened rapt to a life I could have led. At sunset, we went our separate ways, strangers. But I now and then between classes I would linger at her classroom door, catch her eyes through the reinforced glass. We’d lock eyes, and I might wave, but probably not. Memorial Day weekend of 8th grade year was the last time I went to one of those adoption potlucks. I was pissed about going in the first place. The drive out their killed the entire morning. Only recently, Gary had introduced me to the wonders of the Sears catalogue. Its pages left me awestruck, and an afternoon visit with crinkly old Abigail Long was robbing me of precious alone time with the angel smooth boobs in the lingerie section. As we pulled into the circular driveway of Little Explorers Petting Farm, miniature donkeys gathered at the fence. We parked beside the mountain lion pen, a 173 large chain-link box shaded by junipers, the names ABE and SARAH painted on signs above their twin houses. But one of the two cats was missing. Janice met us there, a cheerful woman with hair tucked into a handkerchief. She explained that two months ago, Abe had escaped. This was no cause for alarm--in all likelihood, Abe was D-E-A-D, she said, spelling it out, as if to drain the word of sadness. “Not so close,” Mom said. The hue of Sarah’s coat shifted brown to gold as she slunk between shafts of light. I took a half-step away from the cage. She paced faster now, tail brushing the chain link, near enough to touch. Sarah and I were locked in a staring contest. When my gaze fell to her glowing whiskers, she pounced at the fence-teeth, tongue, yellow eyes--a long, low growl. “What’s gotten into you?” Mom said. “She’s a wild animal!” “He’s fine,” Janice said, chewing ice from a cup of lemonade. “Just a long morning in the car.” We let Sarah be and walked the gravel trail back toward the house. Two peacocks waddled across our path. I scattered them into the brush. We carried our casserole to the backyard where Abigail and Janice and Dale and several other grownups--lawyers, case workers, folks from Abigail’s church--gathered around the table. In the backyard, I found Dad in the crowd of other dads and checked his watch. “When can we leave?” I asked. “Patience.” Dad never liked these potlucks, either. He’d convinced himself beyond all doubt that I was his blood. So what if he had red hair, and I had black curls? Those were minor details, inconveniences. These parties, they ruined everything. 174 The grownups stood in circles of four or six, drinking cans of beer and plastic cups of pink, boxed wine. Abigail sat at the picnic table, flipping through a photo album of children she had placed in the past year. Scattered around the petting zoo were a dozen other adopted kids from Guatemala, Peru, Korea, et cetera, adopted through other agencies and orphanages, all linked by Abigail and her worldwide network of likeminded Christians. Parents kept warning to stay on this side of the fence, as if a few strands of barbed wire would be enough to keep a hungry Abe from pouncing. Like me, some of the kids at the party had been adopted shortly after birth. We had all the same memories as biological children, except we looked nothing like our parents. Other kids had been adopted much later and spoke mysterious pidgins. Parents and children alike were given nametags (PETER – BRAZIL) and more or less segregated themselves by countries, as if establishing little nation states. Abigail flipped through the photo album, sharing stories about people I’d never met, but I knew their private stories from the year before. When the Everetts returned from Peru with their son Diego, they forgot their birth registry in the hotel safety box and were detained at the re-entry gate at LAX. The Simons waited nine hours in a hot Guatemala City courtroom for the stenographer to receive a new ink ribbon, and when the ribbon finally arrived, the judge denied their request. The Clarks told how, eight months into their process, the birth mother changed her mind. These stories were the same snoozers from the last adoption party, and the one before that, and the one before that. The Everetts had the birth registry shipped overnight 175 and were allowed back into the U.S. after a 36-hour wait. The Simons slipped the judge two hundred dollars to approve their request. The Clarks lost their son to his birth mother, but found a three-year-old girl, Lula, who had gone unwanted because of her cleft lip, so expensive to repair. A small plane buzzed overhead. Among the myriad curiosities at Janice and Dale’s property was a local skydiving outfit that used the nearby fields as a landing space. Several divers leapt from the hatch, seeds dotting the blue sky. The parachutes bloomed like flower petals, drifting, and sank out of sight to the other side of the hills. I found Ana Luiza sitting cross-legged on the lawn wearing a yellow tee and black cotton shorts so short that I thought I caught a peek at whatever might be between her legs. Sitting beside her was black kid, gesticulating wildly, speaking in tongues. His nametag read: ROGER – BRAZIL. A black kid in Partway was rarer than a shooting star, let alone a black kid who talked like that. But what caught my attention most was his Garth Brook’s t-shirt, a burn hole in the bottom from when Gary and I had experimented with matches and WD-40. From behind us came Abigail, clutching a black binder like sort I used to display my baseball cards. She embraced me, bracelets dangling from her bony wrists. “I’m glad the three of you found each other,” Abigail said. “This is Rogélio, but you can call him Roger. Next year you’ll be in the same school. He’s trying very hard to learn English. Right, Roger?” “Sem Tia,” Roger said, smiling. 176 “How you’ve grown, Peter,” she said. “Now that you’re a little older, I have something special for you.” I glanced around for my parents. Mom was back out on the deck, listening to a story. Dad minded one of the grills. “Okay,” I said. Knees crackling, Abigail crouched down to the grass and opened her album. Close up I could see the cataract in one eye like a dollop of yogurt, and it seemed at any moment the thing would slip off onto the grass. She licked her finger and began to thumb through the plastic pages. Old, blanched photos of babies and mothers. A courtyard littered with toys. “Here is little Ana Luiza,” she said, pointing to a picture of a young Ana Luiza shirtless in a small plastic pool, nipples like my nipples. “And here is Roger--this was just last year, on his soccer team.” Dad appeared, barbeque tongs in hand. Abigail smiled and folded the album closed. “Hello, Michael.” “Kids,” he said. “Why don’t you go eat?” An endless supply of dogs and burgers on Styrofoam plates. I sat on the deck with Ana Luiza, who explained to Rogélio what condiments he might like on his hotdog. I couldn’t understand a word of what they were saying. “I know some Portuguese,” I said, trying to recall the tongue twister Ana Luiza had taught me the year before. “Três tratos de trigo para três tigres tristes. Três tigres tristes para Três tratos de trigo.” 177 Roger laughed so hard he almost choked on his hotdog. I kept my mouth shut. After lunch, Janice and Mom arranged groups of kids for photos in the garden. Ana Luiza explained what we were doing to Roger in Portuguese. I walked over with Ana Luiza, wondering what her nipples looked like now. Janice posed the three of us under a fir tree, Ana Luiza in the middle. Rogélio put his arm around her and winked at me. “Now we have all the colors of Brazil,” Janice said, placing us so the shadows weren’t on our faces. It was Sarah’s turn to eat. Janice and Dale said all of us kids could watch so long as we didn’t crowd too close. Dale cut of venison from the long freezer in their garage. Birds chirped from the trees as we the path to the cage, library-quiet as Sarah came into view. The cage had been designed so that it could be divided into two parts: One half, a large shelter with beds of hay, the other half a feeding area with a huge plastic water bowl, and a blood-stained, aluminum trash can lid. Dale used a pulley to draw a gate across this section, sealing it off to safely deliver the food. Sarah paced, shoulder muscles flexing, eyes fixed on the thick red cut of meat. Dale tossed the venison on the trash can lid, then stepped out of the cage. Yanking on the pulley, he opened the interior gate. Sarah stepped toward the meat, Mom gave me a look like I’d better not tease the cat again. “She no hunger?” Roger asked. “Not when we’re all watching,” Janice said. “She’s very protective of her lunch.” 178 “Why?” Roger asked. “Nobody want what she got.” “It’s her instinct, sweetie,” Mom said. A plane zipped overhead. Kids scattered to watch the latest batch of skydivers. By the time Sarah finally began tearing into her meat, all of the kids except Ana Luiza, Roger and me had gone back to the trampoline. Sarah licked her enormous paws, satisfied, as if the meal had reduced her to an ordinary house cat. Ana Luiza held a garden hose through the chain-link, filling up Sarah’s water bowl. The giant animal rubbed against the chain link like a cat to a scratching post. Ana Luiza and Roger ran their hands along the animal’s coat. A wonder they could get so close. “Ana Luiza took it really hard when Abe escaped,” Janice told Mom. “She spends a lot of time down here. The animals really seem to calm her down.” “Well, maybe Abe will come back,” Mom said. “We figured he would, at least for the food,” Janice said. “He never learned how to fend for himself. I mean, he didn’t even have enough of a hunters’ instinct to go after the llamas or the pigs.” “Did you call animal control?” Mom asked. “Lord no,” Dale said, wiping his hands on a red-stained rag. “We’d have lost our permit over that. When he didn’t come back after a month we had to tell Ana Luiza that he was probably dead.” “It was hard on her,” Janice said. “We’re pretty sure she was the one who forgot to lock the gate.” 179 The parents retreated into the house to watch the Everetts’ slide show from Machu Picchu. The younger kids gathered at the basketball court for a game. Ana Luiza and Roger drifted away from the rest of the group, across the barbed wire fence and down a wooded path. I hurried to catch up. Drawing closer, I overheard their conversation, an urgent conversation, as if Roger was explaining something he’d been waiting his whole life to tell her, and it only occurred to me then that they had known each other back at Casa de Esperança. “So how long have you guys known each other?” I asked, walking behind them. “I always thought I was going to marry Rogélio,” Ana Luiza said. They shared something I would never have, beyond dark skin and Portuguese, a history they could tell stories about. They started singing a song--a simple playground rhyme, yet I knew not a single word. Roger looked over his shoulder, singing, and when he saw my blank face, he smirked. We approached the base of a large tree house, a row of planks nailed up the trunk of the tree. Ana Luiza started up first, followed by Roger. “Why don’t you go play basketball,” Ana Luiza said when I reached for the first plank. I watched them climb and disappear inside. Maybe I deserved this for all those times I was left to play alone. I heard giggling, then silence. I climbed the tree house carefully, quietly, and when my head emerged through the hole in the floor I saw Roger and Ana Luiza pressed up against the wall, Ana Luiza’s shirt in a pile at her feet. Vai vai vai, he said, waving me away. “Abigail is calling for you,” I said. Que? 180 “Abigail!” I said, pointing out the tree house window. Roger scurried down the plank ladder and toward the house. Red-faced, Ana Luiza squirmed into her shirt. Pants hot, I cornered her. This was what I had wanted. The entire reason I had suffered through all these years of reunions was for this moment, right here, with her. I clutched her shoulders, kissed her hard on the mouth, a spark, a sizzle, a transformation. Puta que pariu! she said, jabbing me in the nuts with her fist. I shrunk away, writhing. She descended the tree. I checked my sack, leaned against the wall, caught my breath, waiting for Janice or Mom or Abigail to come wring my neck. I held the feeling of Ana Luiza’s mouth, still moist on my lips. For a moment I thought it was all worth it, no matter how much trouble I got in, as long as I could remember that feeling, but before I could breathe it in completely, the sensation left me. Then panic. I was on the wrong side of the fence. I imagined Abe roaming the forest, waiting for someone to cross the barbed wire. Every snapped twig turned my head. But I told myself I was stupid for being afraid. It didn’t make sense to me that a mountain lion could forget how to hunt, but I had to face it--he was gone, starved, dead. I gazed through the tree house window, kids standing on the deck like dolls. Ants crawled up my leg and I flicked them away. The blue of the sky faded. None of it made any sense. It didn’t make sense that nobody was looking for me. That Ana Luiza didn’t want to kiss me. That I couldn’t speak Portuguese. That I had a stupid name like Peter and didn’t look like I was supposed to. I wanted to know what Abigail had in her photo 181 album. Why we kept coming to these stupid potlucks instead of just forgetting about Brazil and Brazilians. Near sunset, that tiny airplane sliced between the clouds one last time, sprinkling divers across the sky. I watched the parachutes drift over the hills and out of sight. At the house, a group of younger kids moved the trampoline in front of the basketball hoop. They handed the ball to Larry Everett, the lone blue-eyed biological kid at the gathering. Larry craved attention like a moth craved light. On the trampoline, he gained altitude, bounce by bounce. Without warning he sprung toward the basket. From a distance, it looked like the dunk of a lifetime. Then he hit the backboard and dropped to the concrete. I heard him bawling all the way across the field. Adults swarmed the court. Dale carried Larry inside. I figured it was now or never and walked back toward the house. As I crossed the field, the miniature donkeys were making full grown hee-haws. A llama turned in circles and spat, kept turning as if it had no idea where it should go. On the deck, flies gathered around the last of the deviled eggs. I opened the sliding door. Mr. Everett held Larry over the kitchen sink, wiped at his mouth with a bloody washcloth. Mom and Abigail and Janice and a dozen other kids and parents crowded the kitchen, watching. “There you are,” Mom said. “Where’s Ana Luiza and Roger?” Never in my life had I been a snitch, but I had to save my own ass. “I saw them buck naked up in the tree house.” 182 The adults sprang to life. It was a quick search. They found Ana Luiza and Roger on a bed of hay in the barn. They were hauled into the house for questioning. Mom told me to go into the other room and watch TV with the little kids. I did as I was told, but leaned my ear against the wall to hear Janice and Dale tear into Ana Luiza. I heard my name, but they accused her of lying. Ana Luiza, I thought you were over this, why are you always lying! Then Abigail’s voice, Portuguese like an angry song, ripping into Roger, full name like knife strokes, Rogélio! la-da-da la-da-da la-da-da la, Rogélio! la-da-da la-da-da la-da-da la Rogélio! One by one families gathered their kids to leave. On the deck, Larry sat on his soccer ball, reddened gauze over his lip, watching the sunset while Janice finished telling a story to my mom. When the story was finished, it was finally our time to leave. Mom and Dad said their goodbyes. I saw Roger in the hallway, tears still pooling, but I wouldn’t meet his eyes. It was our time to go. The donkeys made a racket as we crossed the driveway to our car. “Mom?” I asked. “How long until Roger speaks English?” “I don’t know,” she said. “Soon, hopefully.” Pulling out of the driveway, we drove past the mountain lion cage. Sarah licked her paws, camouflaged in the dusk. Ana Luiza leaned against the cage, fingers gripping the chain link. Dad tapped the horn. Ana Luiza and Sarah turned and looked up at once. “Mom?” I asked. “What, sweetie?” 183 “How come Ana Luiza can get so close?” “Sarah knows Ana Luiza,” Mom said. “Oh,” I said, head bobbing with the bumps and dips of the driveway. I needed to know how it could be so different, how Ana Luiza could unlatch Abe’s gate, how the cat could brush right past her, dash away soundless. “How come she lies so much?” “It’s hard to explain,” she said. “Ana Luiza spent a long time in an orphanage. I guess she never learned what trust is.” I looked to Dad as if he might say something, but he kept his hands on the wheel. Mom continued: “Well. She had a baby sister, and when that little girl was adopted, her new family didn’t have any room for Ana Luiza.” “Why not?” “I don’t know why not,” Mom said. “Not everybody’s as lucky as you.” I wish I could have taken what Mom said right then, and believed it, and carried it home. I wish I would have done more in the years we had left to prove that I remembered the fortune of having a mom and a dad and a bedroom and a dinner table, the innumerable graces of my life in the United States. But I didn’t know what to believe. Turn by turn, we rose out of the valley, curving through shadows and trees. I wondered about Ana Luiza’s brother, what his name was. About my own name, before it was Peter. Gazing at the thick forest, I wondered how those skydivers ever found a safe place to land. I imagined one of them tangled in branches, dangling from his parachute, caught. I imagined Abe, starving, yellow eyes glowing in the underbrush, trying to remember what he was supposed to do next. 184 I could hear Big Boy and Silva and the two cadets killing time in the hallway, the roll and slap of foosball, the dull ping of the weight set. The lieutenant checked his watch, closed his Sudoku, and ordered them to cut the racket. In the kitchenette he stood in the light of the fridge, grabbed a fresh juice box, and brushed aside the serum bottles to find an avocado. At the card table he pulled out a chair and the tiny television to that night’s episode of América, a syrupy telenovela about a Carioca girl who dreams of becoming a singer in Nova York. Big Boy and Silva left for patrol. The lieutenant leaned back in his chair, sipping juice, slicing bites of avocado with a pocket knife. The cadets slouched at the card table, waiting for the commercial breaks when they were allowed to speak. A few of the inmates huddled at the bars to watch. The transvestite in the bloody skirt backed me into the corner, a shred of my torn-up ID pinched in his fingertips. I don’t see the resemblance, he said, examining the photo from my driver’s license or passport, I couldn’t tell which. You don’t need the picture to tell he’s American, said the broken-toothed man. Look how tall he is! It’s the milk up there. These days I looked nothing like clean-cut guy in the photo. In the weeks since Mom’s funeral, I’d let myself go shaggy, scruffy. For years I’d used my hair to reinvent 185 myself at will. When I finally escaped Partway for the University of Oregon, I learned that diversity was good for scholarships and sex. I grew the hair back, wrote my middle name on papers, let girls go wild with Aúrajo curls. When I interviewed for The Pioneer, I played it safe, cropped my hair, tossed the middle name like a used rubber. Pete Randolph, plain vanilla. The transvestite leaned into me. He looks sort of like my cousin. I can see it around his eyes. He looks like my cousin, too, the broken-tooth man said, reaching into his pants. Oi! I shouted, pushing my way through them. Do you see what these viados are doing in here? Without turning his eyes from the screen, the lieutenant snatched the sugar cane and raked it along the cage bars until a hush fell over the cell. The transvestite and the broken-toothed man gave up, nudged to the front for a view of the screen. This evening’s episode followed the girl as she tried to find a coyote to take her north, through Mexico, and beyond, to Nova York. Even in the dust and heat of the desert she remained well kempt, gazing into the camera as if staring directly into the lockup. I slid to the back of the cage and put my back against the cinder brick wall. When the telenovela ended, the lieutenant turned to his men with a peaceful, reflective look on his face. I’m through here for the night, he said. You boys go back to your fun. The lieutenant gathered his jacket and Sudoku book and the peach fuzz triplets saluted him as he left down the corridor. Yawning, men in the cell began claiming floor 186 space for the night, stacking themselves neatly like lumber. It was no use sleeping. Big Boy and Silva returned from patrol with beer and liquor. From the hallway came the clatter of weights on the bench press, the shouts of a seemingly endless foosball tournament. Now and then one of the cadets stumbled into the kitchenette, reeking of cheap cachaça, spilling yellow light over the cell as they dug around the fridge. Late in the night, one cadet fumbled with his keys and unlocked our cage. I felt the inmates hold their collective breath. The cadet yanked a lanky, balding prisoner from his sleep and hauled him out into the hallway. For what seemed like an hour we heard the clatter of weights, screams of pain, and drunken bursts of laughter. I plugged my ears, tucked into a ball on the piss-stained concrete, and to will myself to sleep. In a fitful dream I saw a horizon washed in pink, sunset on the mountains back home in Partway. I was stirred awake by the snorts and snores of cellmates, the cadet returning the man to the cell, his bald head bleeding, his hands hanging limp as dirty socks. At sunrise Silva was already awake, stirring sugar into a pot of café in the kitchenette. When the pot was finished he rattled the cane of sugar on the bars and passed out small paper cups of cafézinho to each of us inside. Big Boy and the cadets emerged from their bunks, red-eyed and yawning. The hung-over cadets distributed stale bread rolls. Big Boy handed each of us one slick slice of ham, stuffing the leftovers into his mouth. Together we watched the news, wiping crust from our eyes. Today’s lead story was the disappearance of a very important dog. An internationally famous Carioca model had lost her beloved companion, an overweight 187 black pug named Pelé. She said there was no telling where Pelé may have fled, but she was willing to offer one hundred thousand reals, an extraordinary sum, for his return. Either of you seen this little dog? Big Boy asked the cadets. No, no, Senhor. Well if you if you see one, bring him straight to me. Soon the cadets led us two at a time out to the rear of the building where we squatted to relieve ourselves against the brick wall. The morning was foggy and gray and it was hard to get a sense of where we were. An airplane rising just above the cloud cover told me that we weren’t far off from the city. Back in the cell, the bald man who had been taken away the night before refused to get up for his bathroom break. His hands and fingers blue, turning green. He pissed himself on the floor. The cadet shrugged at the mess. Finally the lieutenant entered the room, brushing crumbs from his shirt, a McDonald’s coffee in his hand. Ah, you’re awake, he said. Listen up, this is important. If on patrol you see a little black pug, you pick him up, you bring him here, me entendem? The lieutenant finished his coffee and brushed his teeth over the sink and slicked back his hair. He straightened out his desk and checked his watch. Soon there was a buzzer--someone at the entrance. He sprang from his desk, checked his teeth in the reflection of the computer monitor, and walked out of sight down the hallway to answer the door. 188 The echo of high heels. Dom Ricardo’s lawyer emerged from the hall, tall and kempt in a grey pant-suit, the lieutenant trailing behind her like a puppy. I was a knot of rage and relief; I was being extorted, but at last, a familiar face. The lieutenant pulled out a chair for her at the card table. She sat and withdrew a yellow pad from her briefcase. He ordered one of the cadets to release me. The brokentooth man grabbed my ass as I slipped out of the cell. “Hello again, Mr. Randolph,” the lawyer said, her eyes like a light blue flame. She clicked open her pen. “You will remember me?” “Por que estou aqui?” I said. “Onde fica meu pai?” “My my,” she said. “Your Portuguese is less firm when you’re angry. Let’s proceed in English. We want everything to be perfectly clear.” “I have a right to speak to the Consul.” “These situations of mistaken identity can be very complicated,” she said. “Be not afraid. We will see to it that your case proceeds along the proper channels.” “You know exactly who I am,” I said. “You know my background.” “I would like to take what you say at face value. But the events of the last few days. Can I trust someone who is a--how do you say--a stalker? Who breaks into homes?” “I want my phone call,” I said. “You forget this is not the United States,” she said. “I know my rights,” I said, losing my patience. “The Consul won’t be of much help to you now,” she said. “You see, there is the small matter of your nationality. The chief here says you were born in Brazil?” 189 “I’m a United States citizen.” “Did you lose your Brazilian citizenship?” she asked. “No,” I said. “I was naturalized.” “But you have no papers,” she said. “Telling us who you are simply will not do. Identity is no laughing matter. Border security, terrorism, bla bla bla. Surely you understand.” Now the lieutenant returned to the table with a cup of cafézinho, a small plate of yogurt with a silver spoon. He smiled at the lawyer, hands folded, as if waiting for a command. Muito obrigado, o senhor, she said. “Identity is not the issue,” I said. “You know exactly who I am.” “Do I really, though?” she said. “You would be surprised how commonplace fraud can be. But rest assured, we want to see you go home where you belong.” “I’m an American journalist,” I said, pounding the table, rattling the plate and spoon. The lieutenant rose quickly from his station, hand on his holster. The lawyer raised a palm and he returned to his seat. “American or not, you are making life very difficult for my client.” “He is a powerful man, but a kind and generous man, as you remember.” “I don’t want your money.” “We are long past that option,” she said. “You have, how do you say, missed that bus.” Glancing over my shoulder, she examined the men behind me in the cell, scrunched her nose as if she’d just taken a terrible whiff of something. “However, as you can already imagine, my client can make your stay in Rio very uncomfortable.” 190 “Does he know what you’re doing to me?” “Brazil is a big country, no? Many fine places to visit. Cabo Frio. Manaus. Bahia…” “I want to speak to him directly.” “I understand you are angry,” she said. She leaned forward in her chair, folded her hands. “Yes, I understand it can be sad, growing up without a father.” “I didn’t grow up without a father.” “Many in Brazil grow up without fathers. It is quite common. A perfectly regular, ordinary, everyday reality. Perhaps, as you say in America, you should suck it up.” Puta que pariu, I said. Now there is some Portuguese, she said. I can’t imagine who taught you that phrase. But she was right. My home in Partway was a life anyone would have been lucky to have--baseball games, trick-or-treating, birthday parties--yet there was always that shadow behind me, disappearing whenever I looked. “Please,” I said. “There has to be another way we can do this.” “I believe we tried the other way,” she said. “Now. I will leave you to fill out this form for the Consul.” From her briefcase she pulled a triplicate sheet and a ball point pen. “These cases of confused identity can make for a very long process. Or it could go fast. Who knows how this world works sometimes? We will see how you feel about everything in the morning.” 191 With that, she stood to leave, smoothing out her pantsuit. “Don’t forget to press hard. You’re making three copies.” Heels click-clacking on the concrete floor, she sauntered to the door, whispered something into the lieutenant’s ear on her way out. Cell phone in hand, he snapped her picture as she walked out the door. Uma garata, no? he said, whistling between his teeth. The lieutenant allowed me to sit at the card table while I filled out the form. The top copy was intended for the Ministério de Segurança Publica, the second copy for Brazilian Immigration and Visa Services, the bottom copy for the Foreign Consulate. Below that were spaces for passport and visa numbers, which I had to leave blank. Puta. Without the lawyer’s cooperation, there was nothing I could do to advance my cause. At the bottom of the page was an empty box with instructions that read: Below, explain the circumstances surrounding your civil status. Behind me, Big Boy walked the perimeter of the cell, spraying the inmates with a bottle of Febreze deodorizer. The prisoners coughed and squinted in the tulip scented mist. Should I answer this in English or Portuguese? I asked, holding up the form. Well, Big Boy said, if you want to prove you’re American, I’d try English. Does the person who reads these understand English? Nobody’s going to read it, he said, giving me a squirt from his bottle. Oh, I’m only kidding. Try Portuguese if you want. Write them a poem. Who knows? Do I look like a bureaucrat to you? He leaned over my shoulder and glanced at the form, lips 192 moving as he read. You know, I’ve never much cared for English, he said. I still have some from school, though. “What your name is?” Correct? “What is your name?” I repeated for him. “What is your name? What is your name?” He walked away with the form, repeating the question with various inflections, like trying on hats. “What is your name?” 193 Michael and Vanessa Randolph. By now they were tired of their own names. On this continent they were forever introducing themselves--to clerks, doctors, street vendors, lawyers, taxi drivers, nuns, young mothers--and when they weren’t introducing themselves, or re-introducing themselves, they filled out applications, or consulted byzantine maps, or thumbed through pocket dictionaries, searching for any word that might end their waiting. Everywhere they waited. The consulate, the courthouse, the orphanage. Daveison assured them daily that they would have a child soon. But soon became a relative term. Soon Michael’s extended leave from work expired. Soon it would be summer again, at least back home in Oregon. Soon Vanessa turned forty, which meant it would be three years, all said, since they had taken this notion of adoption--this wild idea, as her mother had called it--and resolved to make it a reality. After six months of waiting in Rio de Janeiro, that other life in the northern hemisphere seemed to Michael a mere figment, clutching the cliff-edge of memory. These days their few bits of news from the United States came via painfully expensive international calls, or nightly newscasts they could only comprehend halfway. This week, the waiting had turned hot and urgent. Abigail had been in contact with a pregnant young girl named Sonia Aúrajo, a girl who was willing to give them their 194 child. She was due any day. Now that they finally had a mother’s name, they needed final approval. For yet another afternoon, they sat on a stiff wooden bench on the third floor of the downtown courthouse, sweat like drops of glass on their foreheads. Daveison flipped through a comic, laughing out loud occasionally, and stepped outside on the hour to smoke. He returned from his after lunch cigarette break with a golden box of giftwrapped chocolate: “Um jeito,” he said. “We grease the wheels.” He presented the chocolate to the court clerk with a kiss on the cheek. Jeito, a noun, a way, a knack. Brazilians are famous for jeito--a belief that they can find a way around any obstacle. Jeito can mean charm, as in, How did he get away with that? Jeito. It can mean getting what you want, or getting out of trouble. A little jeito. Um jeizinho, a shortcut, a dodge, bending the rules. Michael stood behind Daveison, inspecting the clerk’s desk for any forms that might suggest they were moving forward. But her desk was uncluttered. If she were accomplishing anything, it was in the realm of daydreams. “Somos Randolphs,” Michael said, pushing the limits of his Portuguese. The clerk opened her drawer and placed the box of chocolate beside a stack of ten identicals. “Lot of good that did,” Michael said. “Always works,” Daveison said. “Soon, no?” Michael returned to the bench. Because what else was there to do? Daveison, this twenty-something attorney in sandals, was their advocate, their guide to local food, their only friend in all Brazil. And so they sat the afternoon away. Two other families-one speaking German, another French--waited beside them. No sense of activity in the courthouse. In the six story building there were only three working telephones. The 195 resulting silence stretched every second to its breaking point, ceiling fan turning lethargic as if to make the room hotter, flies sizzling from forehead to forehead, court clerk fanning her face with the front page of O Globo. What little work the clerk did came in brief waves--fifteen minutes of every hour. Now and then, as if to demonstrate that there was nothing to be done about the temperature, she heaved open the thick glass window beside her desk, horns and shouts of the Centro pushing in, and when finally it was clear to the waiting families that the open window only made matters worse, she shut it again, sealing the room in quiet heat. “Air,” Michael said, standing for a walk. “What if we’re called?” Vanessa asked. “Just a walk around the block.” He left her with Daveison, fled the courthouse. At a corner vendor, he retrieved a bottle of Coke from a cooler of melting ice. His forehead seemed to warm the beverage before he could gain any use from it. A grimy veil of exhaust waved from the asphalt, taxis and trucks jammed haphazardly in the intersections, dogs trotting between their bumpers. This was not the Brazil he had imagined. Back in Oregon, he had traced the distance on an atlas--seven thousand miles--and imagined monkeys, banana trees, birds of paradise. This was instead concrete and graffiti and pickpockets, pimple faced soldiers with machine guns. He wanted out, he wanted home. If this arrangement with the mother didn’t work out, he wasn’t sure he could stand to wait any longer. Their money was nearly tapped; their conversations were perpetual rolling boil, always on the verge of shouting. Were they wrong for waiting so stubbornly, for insisting on a newborn? That boy Rogélio was 196 growing older before their eyes. Already, he was out of his binky, running around the courtyard now with a miniature soccer ball. They could have been a family in Partway six months by now, bigots at the lumberyard be damned. Or the other child, Paulo, his face like the skin of an overcooked chicken, one eye burnt halfway closed and weeping. Abigail had even found parents for Paulo, a Christian couple from Tacoma. Was it something wrong with Michael and Vanessa that they weren’t willing to be flexible? Were they patient, or just too picky? On his way back into the courthouse, Michael passed a uniformed boy, probably too young to drink back in the U.S., yet here spitting and grinding the phlegm into the asphalt with the toe of his boot. The walk was little relief. The Coke was hot when he handed it to Vanessa. The clerk called out a name, and the German couple on the neighboring bench rose, the woman dabbing away tears. From the judge’s chamber, the slow hunt and peck of a typewriter, and finally the couple surged from the judge’s door fresh faced with purpose, a document, vanilla white in the man’s hand. The clerk placed a final, authoritative stamp over the judge’s signature, and folded the permiso neatly in an envelope for the afternoon mail. That signature--that simple flick of the judge’s wrist--was all they needed to advance yet another turn in this labyrinthine process of transplanting a child from one hemisphere to the next. Michael imagined snatching the permiso, or paying them for it, or handing cash to the clerk to just let them go next, but they had no money left to spend. Already he and Vanessa were skipping meals and laundry, and regardless, no amount of money would budge this hot afternoon. 197 At three o’clock the clerk passed around a tray of cafézinhos, along with one of the boxes of chocolate from her desk. Michael downed his coffee quickly, Vanessa’s cup as well. The caffeine, she said, only made her worry. Daveison helped himself to a handful of the chocolates. Then the lights flickered, dimmed, and cut out. The clerk made an announcement. Daveison stood. “That’s it today,” he said. “What do you mean?” “No power,” he said. “You don’t need power for a typewriter.” Michael said. The windows filled the room with ample light. Daveison shrugged, popping chocolates into his mouth two at a time. Michael approached the desk. “Randolphs?” Ahmaňa, the clerk said. But they were running short on tomorrows. The birth mother was due in four days. Now Daveison recommended a restaurant before departing for his afternoon soccer game. Michael and Vanessa waited outside the judge’s chambers, hoping for just a word, but the clerk hurried them away. They watched her fill a burlap bag with eleven boxes of chocolate. They watched her walk across the street, hand the boxes to the corner vendor who counted bright bills into the palm of her hand. 198 The next morning, they found Daveison after breakfast, waiting on the courthouse steps, rolling a cigarette on his briefcase. When he saw them he stood quickly, hurried them upstairs where the clerk waited with their permiso. “Randolphs,” she said. “Oh thank God,” Vanessa said. “Now we mail to Brasilia,” Daveison said. “Two more signatures” “There isn’t any faster way?” Michael said. “What about fax?” Vanessa asked. The clerk shrugged. “Then let’s go find one,” Michael said. “She must be the one to send it,” Daveison said. “This form can’t leave the building. Federal rules.” Two days to Brasilia, two days back? Vanessa said she couldn’t stand it--their child born to a motherless world, or worse yet, the mother with two days to reconsider, child in her arms. Downstairs at the payphone, Michael held a finger to his ear to block the din of the street, the distant dial tone a hemisphere away. He checked his watch, estimated the time in Partway. Michael’s supervisor at the lumberyard, still having his morning coffee, yawned into the phone: “You do realize you’re going to owe me three years of weekends when you get back.” “This is the last time,” Michael said. He and Vanessa had borrowed already from every possible bank, relative, and friend. Michael’s supervisor, a single, childless man with thinning white hair and a desk brimming with photos of nieces and nephews had 199 been infinitely flexible with leave. These paycheck advances were a resource of last resort. Jeito. A way. How fortunate was I to be adopted at birth? Not a single memory of the orphanage. Ana Luiza, seven years. Roger, thirteen years. “I just hope it’s worth it,” his supervisor said. “It’s worth it,” Michael said. “Because there’s no shame in coming back empty--” “We’re close,” Michael said. “This is as close as we’ve ever been.” He repeated this to himself, waiting in line at the Western Union. It was almost two o’clock when they reached the Bom Precio. Michael counted out six hundred dollars. The cashier called the manager to certify that the U.S. bills were true. Finally, Michael carried the fax machine back to the courthouse, Vanessa ahead of him, pushing through the sidewalk crowd, pedestrians turning to see what the box contained. Jeito. Like how the Daveison dodged the law that said Ana Luiza and her little sister were never to be separated, a way to make sure that at least one of the little girls found a home. Like how Abigail found a way to sneak Rogélio past Miami customs using certified documents from a boy who’d been dead six months. The court clerk inspected the fax machine like a strange vehicle and, after some pleading from Daveison, summoned the judge for a closer look. Michael fumbled through the pages of the manual, looking for instructions in Portuguese. “He says he knows how to use it,” Daveison said. The judge returned to his chambers. Not long after, the chirp of the fax machine, as if it were broadcasting their future, their entire child, to the capital city. After a period 200 of silence, the buzz and twitter continued, off and on for some two hours. Michael and Vanessa waited on the bench, watching the clock. Michael tapped the tip of his shoe in a quick rhythm on the floor. At any moment the electricity would cease. At three o’clock, Vanessa stood, and to the astonishment of the other families in the waiting room, stormed past the court clerk, into the judge’s chambers. Michael and Daveison followed. The court clerk gave chase halfheartedly, as if they were just too quick, like escaped mice. Inside, the judge fed a new fax into the machine. Vanessa pinched the sheet from his fingers, a crudely drawn chessboard, each move sketched and then faxed to some friend on the other end of the line. “You can’t do this,” Vanessa said. “Randolphs!” he said, shuffling through his desk for a different sheet. He held it up another fax, pointed at the two fresh signatures. He summoned the clerk to notarize the document. She handed it over with a broad smile, offering them a chocolate from her desk. That night, neither Michael nor Vanessa slept. “What are you thinking?” he asked. He held Vanessa close to him. She had begun to weep. “That even with all this, I’ll never feel her inside me. I’ll never feel her heart beating.” “That doesn’t matter,” he said, as firmly as he could. “She’ll be ours.” They were hoping for a girl. They had agreed never to discuss names until they were sure, one hundred percent sure, that it was over. But tonight, they auditioned names, let the words hang in the night, a moment of silence between each one, as if any 201 excess noise would disrupt the moment of creation that had manifest. Outside, a bottle smashed in the alleyway. Headlights rushed along the Boulevard. From some distant corner, a woman’s song. Jeito. Determination. Like how Dom Ricardo flipped to a number in his Rolodex, picked up the phone: Hey, there’s this gringo poking his nose around Leblon. I need you to take him out of circulation. 202 The afternoon of my second day in the lock up, the lieutenant left duty early, boasting that he had prime seats to that night’s final match of the Copa do Brasil. He passed the coveted tickets among his subordinates who seemed thrilled just to hold them. Flamengo versus Vasco de Gama, the wildest rivalry in Rio de Janeiro, face to face at Estado de Maracaná, the largest stadium in South America. Look for me on the TV, no? he said, walking out the door with a Flamengo jersey slung over his shoulder. Big Boy waited less than a minute before picking up the phone. Silva ordered the cadets to fetch ice and beer. Soon a friend of Big Boy’s arrived, also big, a transit police carrying a portable grill and a tray of chicken drumsticks and beef kabobs. The cadets returned with two Styrofoam coolers. Big Boy unplugged the tiny television on the card table. With Silva’s help, the cadets hauled in a large TV, someone’s home set, apparently. The grill master fired up his coals. Move that into the barrack, Big Boy told his friend. Better ventilation. I can’t see the game in there, the grill master said. They set-up the smaller television in the barrack so that he could watch while he did the kabobs. All of us in the cell salivated over the marinade aroma. By the time the game started there were a dozen visitors assembled around the room, MPs and transit 203 police, a two-man K9 unit with a pair of German shepherds licking their chops. They drank beer and smoked, shouting at the officials, fingers slick with the grease of beef kabobs and chicken drumsticks. At intermission Silva collected the chicken bones on a paper plate and slid it under the cell bars. When the inmates began wrestling over the leftovers, Big Boy rattled the sugar cane across the bars. Everyone share, he said. A game like this does not happen every day. We each took a drumstick except for the man who’d his hands crushed in the weight set. Bones picked clean. The game was a dud; Vasco was impotent. Flamengo took the Copa with a 1-0 win, to the delight of everyone in the room except for one of the inmates who rattled the bars, cursing Vasco and their bicha trenador. The visitors dispersed for more drink. Big Boy and Silva and the cadets hurried to conceal the evidence of their churrasca. A flash call crackled on the radio. Big Boy and Silva ordered the drunken cadets to respond, and retreated to the barracks for bed. In all the commotion, they had neglected to let us out. Soon the tin bucket overflowed and the cell reeked of shit and piss. The man who’d had his hands crushed in the weight set didn’t have the strength to pull himself away from the pooling urine. The transvestite lifted him by the armpits and drug him to a clean spot of floor. I pushed my face to the hot bars, gasping for air. Behind me, the broken-toothed man made smooching noises. Oi gato, he said. 204 Closing my eyes, I tried to ignore him, resting against the bars. Big Boy and Silva, snoring like twin hippos. Flies buzzed around the bucket. The only escape was sleep. I woke to the smell of rotten mouth, the broken-toothed man leaning into me, jerking himself. Kicking him away, I shouted for help. He kept on with it, smooching. Hey, I shouted, someone get in here! My cellmates groaned, stirred from sleep. A moment later the lieutenant flipped on the light. Red-faced and wearing his Flamengo jersey, he glanced around the room for his sugar cane. Oh, that viado? he said. He’s harmless. I’m not staying in there with him. He shuffled over to the fridge, yawning. No more beer? Please. Ah, here we go. He cracked a can and leaned back on the countertop. Hell of a game, no? Yes, I said. Hell of a game. Now please let me out. At least until morning. Well, he said, slurping from his can. Maybe you’re in luck. Do you know how to wash a car? I’ll wash ten cars. Okay, okay, okay. He sifted through his pocket for the key. The men have a job for you. 205 He released me from the cage and walked me down the hallway to the parking structure. The peach-fuzzed cadets stood around a late model Volkswagen with its windows shot out. You think it will still run? one asked the other. It’ll clean up good, the second cadet set, holding a spray bottle of lemon-scented Maravillosa. The lieutenant opened the driver’s side door. I gagged. The front seats were damp, warm-red, the windows spackled with blood and matter. I can’t do this, I said. Ta bom, the lieutenant said. Then you go back inside. I’m a fucking American! I shouted, voice echoing off the concrete pylons. The cadets chuckled, poking their fingers through the bullet holes in the back window. I think you’ve forgotten where you are, the lieutenant said. Por favor, I said. Não me faça fazer isso. I’m not making you do anything. Por favor. It won’t take long. The gore lifted my stomach to my throat. The alternative was being trapped with the broken-toothed man. Gloves, I said. Can I at least have some gloves? 206 The lieutenant ducked his head inside the cab, looked around, as if to assess what this job might actually require. He whistled between his teeth. Hey, he told one of the cadets. Go get this kid something. The lieutenant handcuffed me to the steering wheel. One of the cadets appeared at the driver’s side window, passed me the spray bottle of Maravillosa. His partner materialized on the passenger side with a fistful of filthy rags. Honk when you’re finished. Alone. Fluorescent garage lights buzzing. Like a coyote bit by a trap, I moaned, yanked at the cuffs until I lost my breath, until my wrist was bleeding, until I gave up and broke down. I squirted Maravillosa on the dash. I clenched a rag and scrubbed but everything smeared and smeared. I vomited on myself and kept scrubbing. I squirted Maravillosa on the dash and clenched another rag and scrubbed. I tried not to look where I scrubbed. I focused on the glove box, which had been rifled through, a splattered binder of bootleg CDs--Tupac, Ja Rule, Eminem--splayed open on the floormat. I focused on the Odometer: 62652-and-three-quarters. I focused on the virgin hanging still from the rearview. In the rearview mirror, gore soaked the backseat. I focused outside. Reserved Parking. Reserved Parking. Reserved Parking. I vomited on myself and kept scrubbing. I squirted Maravillosa and clenched another rag and scrubbed. I focused on the garage entrance, the graffiti tagged there, tagged by 207 police? I focused on the pile of black garbage bags, trash from the festa. Beer cans, chicken drumsticks, spent charcoal. Beside the coals, a heap of something haphazardly wrapped in plastic, a heap of something with hair, with a head of hair, with a bandana still taut around its head of hair. A boy, no older than sixteen. A boy whose eyes were frozen open, whose eyes were looking slightly behind me, looking at my shadow. Nothing left to vomit. I focused on the buzzing lights and scrubbed. What the fuck was I doing at sixteen? I remember desperation, horniness meets melancholy, a consuming desire to pop a girl’s cherry. Whatever a cherry was, there were only so many of them at our school, and before long they would all be popped. It would be me and the Sears catalogue, together for life. For the last year I’d been working at the Rusty Skillet, a steakhouse just outside of Bend, a real cowboy joint, red checkered tablecloths, waitresses in denim aprons, antique ranch tools lining the walls. I said howdy partner. I snuck leftover pitchers of beer behind the bus station where I guzzled warm brew and gawked at Meadow--our six-foot Klamath Indian waitress the bust of a goddess. At the end of the night, whip hits in the storage freezer, tips in my jar. Sixty, seventy dollars a night. Enough for gas and cigarettes and CDs. Enough beer and weed and mushrooms. Enough to buy a 1983 Datsun Maxima. Those wheels, I hoped, would get me laid, a mission that occupied every waking moment and most dreams. The American and Brazilian flags at my bedside were thick with dust. I’d skipped the last two years of adoption potlucks. I was embarrassed to see Ana Luiza, and I saw enough of Roger at school, where he’d arrived as an overnight 208 sensation, star of the varsity soccer team. When I stopped going, Dad stopped going. Mom continued to box up my used clothes for Abigail. Each Memorial Day weekend, she prepared a casserole. On her way out the door, she checked to see if I wanted to join her, but I was drooling on my pillow, hung-over from a night at the river. This was after Mom started feeling down in the dumps, but before we knew what that meant. I remember the year I turned sixteen, she returned from the potluck with an empty casserole dish under her arm. I was at the kitchen sink, scrubbing my apron. Dad was on his stomach on the carpet, an ice pack on his back, Monday Night Football on the TV. “Peter?” she asked, setting the dish in the sink. “Yup,” I said. “Can you stop that for a second?” “I’ve got work soon.” She turned off the hot water; I turned it back on again. “You know Roger from school,” she said. “Yup.” “I was talking to Abigail today.” She paused, turned off the water again. “I was talking to Abigail and she needs a home for Roger. He’s been bouncing between fosters homes and that just won’t work. He needs stability.” “His soccer coach should take him.” “He offered,” Mom said, “but Abigail doesn’t think his coaches have his best interests in mind.” “That sucks.” 209 “It would only be for two years, until he graduated.” She left the conversation hanging open, a gap I was supposed to fill myself: She wanted Roger to live with us. “Are you fucking kidding me?” “Don’t use that language with your mother,” Dad said. “Are you hearing this?” I asked Dad. “He knows Abigail’s been worried. We’ve talked it over.” Dad lifted himself up from the floor, ice pack dripping on the carpet. “I didn’t say yes, I said we’ll see.” “We’ll see?” I said, stunned by Dad’s betrayal, Mom’s surprise attack. “Pete—” “I can’t believe you’re willing to go along with this bullshit.” “I told Abigail we would ask you beforehand. This is just a chance for Roger to have a chance at a better life.” “So you’re looking for a charity case?” I said. “He’s not a charity case. You know him from school. He says he really likes you.” “Probably just because he needs a place to live. I barely know him.” But I knew him from the hallways, arms around Ana Luiza. I knew him from the school assemblies, collecting trophies for the soccer team. I barely knew him, but I hated him. “Will you think about it?” “There’s nothing to think about. I’m late for work.” 210 On the drive to work I could barely concentrate on the road. If Roger was a charity case, did that make me a charity case? Suppose our lives had gone another way. Why me and not him? Was my lighter skin the only reason I’d been chosen? Suppose they’d picked Roger instead. Suppose I was the one who spent all those years waiting. I scrubbed. Sixteen. From the trash pile, the boy watched me scrub, his lower lip split in the middle. A fly turned circles on the dried blood and zipped away to the mouth a beer can. How did this kid get his hands on a Volkswagen? What future did the police erase? I imagined him on his way to a party, hoping to meet a girl, longing to put his mouth someplace it had never been before. The summer I was sixteen, August arrived boiling. The Pandora moths were dormant that year, larvae growing fat in the pumice sand. At the Redmond Air Show, two people died of heatstroke. At the Bi-Mart in Bend, a woman left her baby ten minutes in the hot car and the aftermath cast a pall over the entire town. But just when folks thought it couldn’t get any worse, there it was, worse, on the front page of the Bend Bulletin. The star freshman point guard from Mountain View, swallowed by an underwater lava tube in the Little Deschutes. They still hadn’t found his body. Partway kids weren’t going to let that fuck up the summer. Bend was no metropolis, but it was thirty times bigger than our town. Rich kids who didn’t spend two hours a day on the school bus. Rich kids with an aquatic center to pass the time. Partway kids cooled off in the Little Deschutes River. Partway kids shared an unspoken feeling that Mr. Mountain View got what he deserved for trespassing in our waters. 211 White Rock--our swimming hole. It took a car to get out there, sixteen miles, fishtailing on gravel, dust blooming in the rear view mirror. Gary and I made the trip every afternoon that summer, windows cranked down, stereo blasting, washboard rattling our teeth. This afternoon we saw the line of cars parked along the barbed wire fence, saggy from so many people crossing over. Across the fence was an old deer path littered with beer cans and cigarette butts. That path was private property, but nobody could own the river. It was a long hike on hot dust, grasshoppers clicking from sage to sage. Makeshift fire pits, broken bottles, panties and crusty muscle shirts strewn about. Then out of nowhere, a sudden cliffside--you had to be careful not to walk off the edge. Below, the river--only two ways down. Descend the cliffside, a slow, fifteen minute reverse-climb. Or take the forty foot leap, a test of will, paradise waiting for those who succeed: slow, crystal cool current; natural rock slides; warm, shallow eddies where mini-waterfalls soaked girls in bikinis. On the opposite bank, a landscape of sun-heated rocks, perfect for cold beer and hot pipes and watching people make the jump. The key was not thinking too much. Push off the cliff-edge hard enough that you cleared the rocky bank below and sank into the deep. Nobody had ever failed to make the water, but the possibility plagued me. The summer was on its downhill slope, and I still hadn’t willed myself over the edge. I was the only kid my age who hadn’t leapt; I wanted it more than anything. This afternoon I kicked a rock over, watched it plop to the water below. Kids up at me gazed like sea monkeys in the dark waters. But I took the cliffside down. No jeers 212 or laughter from the spectators, just silent acknowledgement that I was a sopping wet pussy. I found a place on the rocks. A group of girls assembled at the cliff edge, hung their shirts and shorts on a cliffside juniper. One of them was Julia Hudson, a red-headed senior with enormous freckled tits. The guys called her fire-crotch, though nobody had ever seen it. The girls adjusted their suits, and one by one, they leapt, sank, and surfaced, proof that I would never get laid unless I made the plunge. The best jumpers surfaced to whistles and shouts, and nobody got more cheers than Gary. With only one-hand, he could manage to climb up the cliff at dusk, but was impossible for him to climb down. He had the most experience jumping because he’d never had a choice. This summer he’d been accepting dares--front flips, back flips, full outstretched rotations. Sometimes he failed and flopped miserably on the water, his prosthetic coming loose and floating away, but kids cheered nonetheless. By August his stunts were so perfect that he landed without a splash, everyone watching, mouths agape, as if he’d just disappeared. Gary had been waiting for this his entire life—something he could do that nobody else could. He told me that jumping was the only time he didn’t think about his hand. Today I had a new dare. “Hey,” I shouted up to him. “Jump from the tree.” Gary lit a cigarette and examined the juniper near the cliff edge. It was about fifteen feet tall, various shirts and shorts and caps hanging from its twigs. Gary tested the strength of its branches. He stood there smoking, figuring his way up. Before he’d even finished his cigarette, he’d hauled himself to the top branch, rocking in the wind, smoke trailing from his Camel. He tossed the cigarette over the edge, as if to test this new great 213 height. It fluttered a good long while, hissed in the water. By now a crowd had gathered to witness the leap. “Does he ever get scared?” Julia asked, a flutter in her voice like she was ready to jump Gary’s bones the moment he landed. “He’ll puss out,” I said. Gary leapt, arms waving like a bird. He straightened his body like an arrow and pierced the surface, but the splash sent water clear to our seats on the opposite bank. We waited breathless for him to rise. His prosthetic broke the surface. A moment later, he emerged, a worm of blood crawling from his nose. “How’d you like that,” he said, farmer blowing red snot onto the rocks at my feet. Gary’s leap earned him an invitation to camp with the Julia Hudson’s group that night. They gathered at the top of the cliff, around a fire pit just off the deer trail. “Is he going to tag along?” Julia asked Gary. “He’s my ride,” Gary said. Here around the fire he was still getting slaps on the back for his tree jump. Stupid fucker wouldn’t have even been able to get out here without my car, but now firecrotch was sitting on his lap, sharing a joint with him, asking if she could touch his hand. There was nothing for me to do but drink myself into a coma. After too many beers, I shouted it out what seemed like a brilliant idea: “Let’s go down to the water!” “How we going to get down there, dumbass,” one of the older guys asked. “Jump?” I said. Everyone laughed. But I led the charge anyway. Or at least I felt like I was leading the charge. 214 “Pete,” Gary said, following close behind, “this is fucking stupid.” At the cliff-edge, a crowd gathered behind me, I knew, just to see me puss out. Every bone in my body told me to stay put. Even the tree, fixed on the rocky edge, seemed to be telling me not to jump. I hung my cap and shirt and climbed the branches. Gary glared, but I could tell he didn’t want to spoil anybody’s fun. From the treetop, I peered down. Dark churn, rip curls in the moonlight. I heard gasps as I pushed off. It seemed I was falling the entire summer. White seeds of moon flecked the water. Wind in my ears, I waited to die. I hit the frozen water and sank, kept sinking, becoming another being entire. I pushed off the sandy bottom, looked up to see twin moons like faces wavering on the surface, tiny bubbles spinning in white light. I kicked toward those faces, breathless, kicking through orange sparks like torpedoes. I broke the current. No whistles, no cheering, only Gary calling down to see if I’d survived. Ears ringing, nose and eyes burning. Only one moon. Those orange sparks, blood pulsing in my eyes. I swam to the rocky shore and climbed onto the bank. My bare feet stepped onto a mushy carpet of fur. The broken remains of a yearling fawn, strayed from the deer path, broken on the bank. I sat with it a moment in the dark, ignoring the murmurs from the cliff top. Its body was still warm. I wondered how long its mother had paced the cliffside before giving up hope. Had our drunken walk along the path chased her away? Now the impact had me nauseous. I vomited, wiped beer and bile from my chin. I caught my balance, shouted to the top, “I’m still here!” 215 A long, dizzying climb. At the top, nobody was there to celebrate. Everyone was tending to fire-crotch’s bloody feet, shredded by some bottle shattered on the path. I told nobody what I had seen below; the yearling would be carried away by a cougar come morning. In the yellow dawn, Gary and I drove home with adult-sized hangovers. The midnight leap had broken vessels in my eyes and in the rear-view the scleras were dark red. Gary said nothing of his jump or mine. Soon after, the heat broke, the season ended. By the following summer, White Rock had changed. Swimmers were finding syringes and vials along the riverbanks. A girl was raped. The Sheriff sent routine patrols down the path on horseback. By the time I finished college, the cliffside was fenced off completely, the canyon checkered with ranch style homes. But that morning, I felt like my jump would live forever. I found him hammering nails in the garage. I thought he’d be proud. “Look at your eyes,” he said, almost shaking. “We give you a car, and this is what you do with it, try and get yourself killed?” He demanded that I hand over the keys. I refused. He unplugged the battery. The fight escalated, lasted a week, then a month, until I told one night I told him: “Maybe you’d be better off with Roger.” I scrubbed. I clutched another rag and sprayed the splattered window and wiped at the glass. I was a stupid, selfish prick. I remember seeing Roger’s face on the front 216 page of The Portland Pioneer. The article wasn’t about soccer; it was about his new brothers and sisters. Here they were, fourteen of them, lined up on a porch in army fatigues. Roger, standing in the back, the only black kid. I scrubbed. His new foster father was a military man. He and his wife kept the boys and girls in bunkhouses. Military discipline, Bible study on Wednesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays. The newspaper article announced the father had been arrested on allegations that bad shit going down in the bunkhouse. The allegations were legit, but by the time he saw a trial, Roger was 18-years-old, off at boot camp. I scrubbed. That summer I turned sixteen, the freshman point guard from Mountain View washed up sixty miles away after three weeks of being pressure sucked through the long snake of a lava tube. He was less than pulp, a collection of bones and teeth, gray like pearls. Mom showed me the article. “This is why your father was so angry,” she said. “If something like this ever happened to you, it would kill him.” Now I pinched shards of teeth like rock salt from the floorboards. That boy in the trash pile, still watching. 217 Finished, I laid on the horn. The concrete outside the driver’s side window was littered with bloody rags. The car still wasn’t clean. Not even close. But I deserved a drink of water, a chance at the bathroom. Big Boy came out to inspect, yawning. You’re no maid, that’s for sure, he said, bottle of Febreze in his hand. This might help. I need a break, I said. When you finish you can come inside. There’s kabobs leftover. He unlocked the trunk. Flies rose from inside. Puta merda, he said, brushing them away. Looks like a long day for you. He uncuffed me from the steering wheel so that I could get to work on the trunk. Loose, I scrambled to the passenger door, fumbled with the handle. He gripped my ankle. Get back here. I shook my leg free and rolled out the passenger door. Big Boy glared across the hood of the car, the only thing between me and the parking garage exit. So you feel like getting shot today? 218 Let me go and I can make it worth your while, I said. I’ve got lots of money. Cash. Tell them I escaped somehow. Nobody has to know. Um jeizinho, é? Life is just money for you gringos. See? I said. You know I’m American. You know I’m not supposed to be here. You don’t even know where here is. He was right. The facility was fenced, gated. There was a long gravel road, that was all I knew. These lock-ups were in the middle of nowhere for a reason. Zero chance of getting back to the city alone. Big Boy’s expression softened. For a second it looked like Big Boy was giving my offer a thought. But it was only preparation for a sneeze. He sneezed into his palm and wiped it on his bullet proof vest and walkie-talkied for backup. Silva and the cadets appeared at once, guns drawn. My hands rose as if on strings. I just want to go home. Que merda, Big Boy said. On the ground. I dropped to my knees, then flat on my stomach. Belly on the concrete, I felt them surrounded me. I heard the lock-up door slam, angry footsteps approaching. Roll over, the lieutenant said. I did as told. He’d changed from his soccer jersey back into military dress. 219 This has the potential to turn into a real bad mess, he said, knees popping as he crouched beside me. Alcohol on his breath, red puffs under his eyes, hung-over from last night’s game. I’m an American journalist, I said. If I go missing, you will be fucked, understand? Word will get out. His mouth opened but no words escaped. I nodded toward the trash heap. Never mind O Globo, I said. You’ll be on the front page of The New York Times. Rising from his knees, he scowled at his men. Get him up. The cadets lifted me from the concrete and hauled me to the barrack. Whatever favors the lieutenant owed Dom Ricardo would cost him his pension. At the front desk, he shuffled around for my triplicate form and placed a phone call, tapping his pen nervously on his sign-in sheet. I apologize, but it’s urgent, he spoke into the receiver. Behind me, Big Boy and Silva and the cadets murmured. Now the lieutenant listened carefully, plugging one ear with his fingertip. A surge of adrenaline. American journalist. That’s fucking right. Sweat stinging my eyes, I imagined the exposés. É, the lieutenant said. Entendo….entendo… He’d better understand. The moment I got out, he was done for. I would personally bulldoze this lockup. The others, too. Open up the veins. A dose of medicine for Brazilian Amnesia. 220 Que bufo! the lieutenant said, chuckling now. I stepped away from the desk, bumped into Big Boy. For you, the lieutenant said, handing me the phone. My birth father’s lawyer: “You’re making this exceedingly difficult,” she said in English, a crackle in her voice. She had just woken up. I could hear children in the background. She shushed them. “Do you have any idea what’s going on in here?” “Peter,” she said. “We know it’s no Copacabana Palace in there. But if we can come to terms on this, we can make progress very quickly, you will see.” “Journalists don’t just go missing,” I said. “Oh that,” she said. “A strange thing. You’re here on a tourist visa, no? Were you trying to scare us?” Caught. “We’ve learned many curious things about you.” Inmates huddled against the cage bars, nibbling on chicken bones. “I just want to go home.” “Of course you want to go home,” she said. “Be not afraid. My client is a very powerful man. If he wanted harm to come to you, it would come. We have a safer place arranged for you. It will give you some time for reflection. We’re sure you won’t want anything like this to happen again.” “Anywhere but here,” I said. The lieutenant snatched the receiver. 221 He called to his men: This one’s going to the bughouse. Whistles, shouts, smooches from the cage. Big Boy grabbed me by the arms, pushed me into the next room. “You can’t do this,” I said in English. “Look. I’m not Brazilian. Believe me. Preciso voltar nos Estados Unidos!” Inmates and guards laughed together. Big Boy pushed me face down on the card table, its legs wobbling under the weight. The lieutenant opened the refrigerator, shuffled some items around, and withdrew a bottle of milky serum. “No--” With his teeth, he tore open the plastic wrapping on a hypodermic needle. Stabbing the bottle, he drew liquid into the syringe. “You can’t do this! I’m American, I’m American.” Hold him, the lieutenant said. “Não posso falar Português,” I pleaded. “I can’t even do that tongue twister. Listen. Três tigres tristes para três pratos de trigo…” Rs fell dumbly from my mouth. Three sad tigers for three plates of wheat. “Três pratos de trigo para três tigres tristes…” Three plates of wheat for three sad tigers. Big Boy let go momentarily to sneeze. I said hold him. The cadets gripped my arms. Inmates rattled the cage bars. The lieutenant tapped the syringe. A prick of the needle. Gone. 222 PART FOUR 223 Sonia worked over what she would say to Mr. Alfonso. Senhor, may we please speak in private? That wouldn’t do. She needed something more forceful. Monday morning, and already the prefeitura had sent workers to replace the billboards the policia had burnt down the week before. These new and improved displays were elevated, impossible for squatters to use as shelter. The military’s slogan would be restored: Ame-o ou Deixe-o! Love it or leave it. Maybe she would be better off leaving it. Jackie was right--it all seemed like a fantasy now, the idea that Mr. Alfonso would leave his wife and Juliana and Thiago. The more she thought about it, the more childish she felt for ever considering it a possibility. O Senhor, I must speak with you at once. Perhaps something more tender, less alarming? Sonia disembarked at Plaça da Quimera. She took her time walking, uncertain whether today would be her last day with this job. The fiery pink of the rising sun was reflected on the window of every house on the her side of the street. On the opposite side the windows were cold and gray. When she reached No. 427, she reached into her purse for the key. Mrs. Alfonso opened the door. Bom dia, senhora, Sonia said. 224 What is this? Mrs. Alfonso said, holding the tube of lipstick, the very shade that little Juli had been carrying to school lately. I don’t know what you’re talking about. Friday afternoon, Mrs. Alfonso said. I pick up the children from school, only to find my daughter dressed like a common whore. I-She says you watch her do this every day. That you say nothing. In the kitchen, the children were seated at the breakfast table. Thiago wouldn’t look up from his bowl. Juliana peered into the salon as if she had a front row seat. It was obvious now that Sonia had only imagined a loyalty between herself and the children. She had no business asking them about their parents’ arguments, about their weekend plans. The daydreams that Juli and Thiago were her little ones, that it was Mrs. Alfonso who was extraneous to the house--all foolishness. She wondered how quickly Juliana had betrayed her. Perhaps once or twice I saw this, Sonia said. So you’re lying to me? Mrs. Alfonso said. No, Senhora. I wonder what else you lie about. Senhora— I have no time for this now, she said. Mr. Alfonso will have more to say to you at lunch. I will take the children to school myself this morning. You’ll find the list of groceries on the bedroom nightstand. The money is there as usual, if you can be trusted with it. 225 Mrs. Alfonso turned down the hall, ending the conversation. In the kitchen, Sonia cleared the children’s dishes. Neither child met her eyes. When Mrs. Alfonso and the children left, the house was gray and silent except for the parakeet chirping, as he did, rain or shine. Sonia found the shopping list and the envelope of money and there behind the nightstand noticed a coin-sized spider, yellow and black, the poisonous variety she had disposed of a thousand times, for these could be fatal to the children. Yet today she wondered what she might do with it, how easy it would be to move the spider ever so carefully to Mrs. Alfonso’s wardrobe, or to her make-up kit, so that the next time she reached for her violet blouse or her white facial cream, all of Sonia’s problems would be solved, instantaneamente, blue-lipped on the ground. And Mr. Alfonso with a new wife, waiting. And the children with a new mother, a new brother or sister on the way. Yes. Except now, Sonia, removing her shoe, crushing the spider with her shoe, now she worried it was she who was better off dead, who was living in a nonsense world, who was nothing fine enough for this man, this house, this life. She ground her shoe into the spider until it was only a black and yellow ick that she would have to clean up later 226 When I came awake I couldn’t move, bound to a gurney by canvas straps. Vision blurred, I licked my cracked lips. I was dressed me in a yellow jumper and blue sandals. The gurney was rolled snug against the wall of a narrow tile corridor. Shafts of daylight slanted through barred windows, casting lines of shadow on rows of metal-frame beds, mattresses curled like stale bread slices. Opposite my gurney, a frail Bahian man sat in his underwear, handcuffed to the bed frame, his frizzy black hair salted with gray. He scratched at his shins as if they were infested with worms, red crosshatches from his ankles to his knees. Pausing, he gazed at me with large, wet eyes. Where are we? I asked. Have you seen Arminda? he said, voice like gravel. Back to scratching. Hello? I called out, echoes like birds fluttering down the corridor. He’s awake! a voice called out. Flip flop of sandals on concrete, approaching. A pale, bald man stood over me, faded yellow jumper hanging from his bony frame. He tilted his head slightly, smiled, showing two gold teeth. You haven’t checked in with me yet, he said. I’m the President. Everyone has to check in with me. 227 Vai! a woman said, pushing a squeaky cart down the hall. Vai vai vai! The bald man laughed and scurried down the hallway. The woman wore blue jeans and a yellow blouse. The cart was piled high with rags and dry sponges, bleach bottles and cleaning solutions, a water bucket steaming. Let me out of this, I said. Only the zeladors can do that, she said. Where are we? I asked. Stop that, Othoniel, she said, gripping the Bahian man’s wrists. No amount of sleep would cure the dark crescents under her eyes. Othoniel gazed up at her with vague recognition. She sat beside him on the bed and withdrew a nail clipper from her shirt pocket. Othoniel let her take each finger, nails stained crimson. Have you seen Arminda? Shhhh, the nursemaid said. Quiet now, meu filho. Please, I said, squirming on the gurney. My name is Peter Randolph. I’m here by mistake. The nursemaid leaned over and checked a plastic ID bracelet on my wrist. She squinted her eyes, sounded it out syllable by syllable: Jo-sé-Da-Sil-va. Jo-sé Da Sil-va. It says here José da Silva. We get a lot of those around here. She sat back down on the bed and moved on to Othoniel’s other hand. José da Silva--the Brazilian John Doe. That’s a mistake, I said. I’m an American. Someone put me here on purpose. A man named Dom Ricardo Alfonso. 228 There are all sorts of mistakes here, she said. Dipping a hand towel into the bucket, she went to cleaning Othoniel’s wounded shins. His ashy legs were suddenly shiny, wounds taking on a raw definition, red hieroglyphics. He rocked slowly as she dabbed. Please, I said. I need to speak to the U.S. Consul immediately. The nursemaid chuckled. It’s your lucky day then because the man who was just here with you, he’s the President of the United States. I repeated everything in English, as if that might prove something. Não falo Inglês, she said. You have to believe me. I need out. The nursemaid ignored me, humming as she dabbed the wounds, ringing pink water into her bucket. Finished, she tossed the damp rag onto a pile on her cart. The man began scratching at himself with his bare fingers. She brushed the clippings from the floor into her palm and dropped them into the water bucket like slivers of pearl. Will you loosen these straps? I asked. I’ll tell the zeladors you’re awake. They’ll let you free once you’ve taken your medicine. You don’t understand, I begged her. No, you don’t understand. I clip nails, I cut hair, I clean toilets. Only zeladors and médicos can unbuckle you. The woman withdrew a tissue from her cart and dabbed at the corners of Othoniel’s mouth. She kissed him on his forehead and pushed her squeaky cart back down the hall. 229 Wait, I begged her. I can explain. Save your story for the médico, she said. The corridor reeked of vomit and cigarettes, but the tile walls were polished to a high shine, reflecting my face oblong: dark-half moons under my eyes, a swollen lip, three days of stubble. The last I’d had to eat was that leftover chicken drumstick. My gut had turned to glass, and now that glass was cracking. From the windows, the violet light of sunset. The cell gate at the end of the hall clicked open. A pair of zeladors herded a procession of patients toward mealtime, one caretaker at the head of the line, another taking up the back. Both zeladors wore medical facemasks and twin white uniforms, flags of Brazil patched on their breast pockets, blue orbs staring like eyes. On their belts were pepper spray and stun guns and walkie talkies that chirped at random, voices crackling. The line of patients shuffled past, two dozen men, laughing, mumbling, clapping, fondling, singing, smoking, or staring blankly ahead. An Indio with tattooed arms traced his fingertips along the tile wall as he walked past, and now along my leg and torso. He snapped his fingers an inch from my eyes, as if checking to see that I was still alive. The bald man from earlier, the President, stopped at each bed in the hallway, turning over mattresses and pillows as if looking for some treasure. At my gurney he snatched the sandals from my feet. The final patient was a gangly mestiço with a patchy beard and a cigarette dangling from his lips. He flicked his thumb like he needed a lighter. When he realized I 230 was strapped down, he gave me thumbs up like, No problem, sir, I shall find one elsewhere, and continued down the hall. The second zelador uncuffed Othoniel from his bed. Dinner time, he said, facemask pulsing when he spoke. Othoniel rubbed his wrists and shuffled down the hall. The zelador stood over my gurney with a clipboard and a small plastic cup. Dinner time, he said. Gracias a Deus, I said. I need to see the person in charge. Medicine first, he said, checking his clipboard. From the plastic cup he tapped two yellow and green pills into his palm. I’m not taking any medicine, I said. It says here you’re distressed, he said, referencing his clipboard. Looks about right to me. This is benzodiazepine, to help you relax. I just need a telephone. I need to speak to the Consul. Don’t worry, they’re fun, he said, and as if to prove this, he pinched one from his breast pocket and popped it in his mouth. É? I let him slip the pills between my lips. Holding them under my tongue, I pretended to swallow. Já, I said. Ta bom? You think I’m stupid? He pinched my nose. Squirming, I spit the pills like two bugs. They bounced off his white shirt. He snatched them from the floor. We try this again? Gripping my jaw, he forced the capsules between my lips; I swallowed. Goooooooood, no? He unbuckled me. Lightheaded from so much time on my back, I rolled upright, wobbly, sparks in my eyes. Now can I please use the phone? I asked. 231 Dinner time, he said. The bathroom at least? He escorted me to a bathroom down the hall and waited outside the frosted door. A single toilet, a sink, no mirror. I dropped to my knees in front of the toilet and probed my forefinger down my throat until the pills surfaced like two jewels. At the sink I rinsed my mouth. Outside, the zelador waited with another plastic cup. Slow learner? he said. Benzodiazepine. It couldn’t have been worse than starving. I did as I was told. The zelador led me through a cell gate and down a narrow flight of stairs, the steps sticky on my bare feet. I peered through the windowed doors at each landing. The floor below us was an identical gated corridor of beds and gurneys, patients askew on their mattresses, others in heaps along the wall. The next floor down was lined with narrow cells and I glimpsed two zeladors shoving a straight-jacketed man into a dark space. The next floor down was a hall of offices where the nursemaid stood beside her cart, wiping at handprints smeared across an office window. At the bottom of the stairwell we pushed through double doors to the entrance of a first floor cafeteria. The line of patients from my corridor leaned up against the wall, waiting to be admitted through a turnstile. No escape--this was a manicômio, a custody hospital. Most of these asylums had been torn down during the abertura, but a few remained, psychiatric prisons, security measures outside the traditional penal system. They were used as containers for 232 offenders too crazy for the penitentiaries, or as a favor from judges to friends, jeito, a way to take enemies out of circulation. Wait your turn, the zelador said. The patient at the front of the line approached a pharmacy counter where a zeladora stood behind reinforced glass. The patient held his ID bracelet up to the window. The zeladora read his tag and counted yellow and green pills into a small plastic cup. She filled an identical cup with water from a tap at her side and passed both cups through a turn box at the base of her countertop. The patient threw back his pills and passed both cups back through the turn box. At the turnstile leading to the cafeteria, another zelador him open his mouth to verify that he had swallowed. He was allowed to proceed. The zeladora rinsed both cups at the tap and the next patient stepped forward. It went on like this until I was first in line. I got him already, my zelador said, winking at me. I still need to see his bracelet, the zeladora said. My name is Peter Randolph, I said. She needs to see your bracelet, my zelador said. He gripped my wrist and held it to the window and the zeladora noted José da Silva #6 on her clipboard. Was that so hard? the zelador said. Another line wrapped around the cafeteria, inching slowly toward the steaming food line. José da Silva #6. How many of these men had been erased like me, and for how long? I could only trust what the lawyer had said: Dom Ricardo was a powerful man, and if he wanted harm to come to me, it would have come already. This place was safer than the lock up, if only because the population was sedated. Here at the back of the line, patients were still wild and rowdy, but farther along toward the food, those 233 patients who had swallowed their pills fifteen minutes earlier stared slack jawed at the backs of the men in front of them. Still, I avoided eye contact at all costs. The cafeteria windows were barred as well. Two zeladors supervised the rows of tables, uniforms and facemasks identical to the others, walkie-talkie phones chirping like birdsong. I couldn’t tell whether the manicômio was staffed with dozens of caretakers, or a few working efficiently. Patients sat shoulder to shoulder, pushing rice and beans around their plates, carving graffiti into the tables with their spoon handles. All eyes were turned toward several small televisions mounted on the walls around the room, tuned now to same breaking news update: PELÉ--A BUSCA CONTINUA! The famous Carioca model still hadn’t recovered her black pug, and tonight she had doubled the reward. The patient ahead of me turned around: Isso, he said. If I had that kind of money, I would buy cigarette proof lungs! Then he laughed until he fell apart coughing. At the start of the food line I grabbed an aluminum tray. The Indio with tattooed arms stood behind the counter, serving food. Now he wore a hairnet and spooned me a generous helping of rice and beans, plus two warm juice boxes. No silverware remained, no empty seats at the tables. I found floor space near the trash can and sat cross-legged, fingering food into my mouth. The rice hit my stomach like needles. I ate so fast I gagged. I fingered my tray clean. I licked my fingers and the webs between my fingers. The cafeteria was an echo chamber of laughter and news casting. The President approached the trashcan, ready to dump a half-full tray of food. I scurried to my feet. Por favor, I said. I’m starving. You owe me if I give you this. 234 Cualquires, I said. He handed over the tray. I slumped to the floor and ate greedily, amnesia of joy, oblivious to where I was, who I was, what might happen next. The zeladors flipped the cafeteria lights off and on. Dinner was over. I could barely stand. One by one the patients clicked through the turnstile, hundreds of sandals flapping like a slow round of applause. The speechless man who’d asked for a lighter shuffled past. He waved; I ignored him. He pointed to his wrist as if wearing a watch, then flashed ten fingers at me three times. Thirty minutes? I said. He nodded, then pointed at the lights. Thirty minutes until lights out? Smiling, he gave me thumbs up. Patients filed in two directions--some through a revolving door to a courtyard outside, others into a low-ceiling space labeled Sala de Divertimento--recreation room. I entered the sala hoping for a phone. Leakage stained the ceiling tiles and spills stained the carpet so that the room from top to bottom seemed spotted. The zeladora who had doled out our medicine sat behind a small desk, flipping through a magazine, listening to music from a pair of ear buds. The tattooed Indio, still wearing his hairnet, sat at a kidney shaped table with a box of crayons, doodling on recycled office paper. Four patients surrounded a foosball table and without a real foosball they used a crumpled piece of paper to limited effect. Along the wall several comatose patients sat in wheelchairs, facing a window that overlooked the moonlit courtyard. In the corner of the 235 room, jabbering into a phone, combing his few remaining strands of hair with a plastic spork. Thank God. I need to use that as soon as you’re finished? I asked. He covered the receiver with his palm--Is it urgent? Because this is urgent. It’s urgent. Who do you need to call? The U.S. Consul. You’re American? he asked, gazing into my eyes as if he could find proof there. How many states can you name? All of them, I said. Nobody can name all of them, he said. I’m the President, and I can’t even name all of them. Nike. Hershey. Pepsi. On his tongue the names were strange amalgamations of syllables, barely recognizable. I just need to use the phone. I can connect you, he said. He brought the receiver close to his lips. Get me the Consul! Tomorrow won’t do, I have to speak to him now! He handed me the phone. Here you go. Thank you, I said, taking the phone. That’s two you owe me, he said, touching his index finger to the corner of his eye. He ambled away, hands in the pockets of his jumper. I tapped the switch hook. No dial tone. I tried again. Nothing. He’d been speaking to the ether. 236 The benzo pills weighed heavy on my brain. Maybe the zeladora could help. I asked her about the phone. She looked at me as if she didn’t understand. I asked her again and she took her ear buds out. Que? O telefone não está funcionando. Chamadas recibidas só, she said. Incoming calls only. Can I please borrow your phone? I asked. She licked her finger and flipped the page on her magazine, obviously accustomed to ignoring that question. I shuffled through the revolving door. A pair of sodium lights threw a bluishgreen pall across the courtyard, patients lining the high walls, smoking, dozing, jacking off. Other patients huddled in the night-shade of mango trees, adding to the graffiti on the latex coated trunks. Arranged haphazardly along the burnt grass were four picnic tables where inmates played cards, arm wrestled, carved messages into the wood with stolen spoons. Two zeladors ambled from table to table, chatting amongst themselves, brushing mosquitoes from their facemasks. The perimeter walls were speckled with shards of glass that glimmered like broken teeth in the moonlight. I walked the edge of the courtyard, reading graffiti on the brick -- EU AMO MARIA; VIVA SOCIALISMO; OSMAN CACHUCO 1974 - ???? In the eastern corner stood a tree with branches hanging over the wall. My way out. The zeladors were turned the other way. I stepped closer to gauge the height of the branches. A hand grabbed my shoulder. 237 The speechless man, a grave look on his face. He pointed at the wall, and then waved his index finger, like No, that is a really bad fucking idea. He gestured toward the zeladors, backs still turned, walkie talkies chirping. Speechless grimaced, jabbed his elbow into the palm of his hand to show how bad they would kick my ass. Thanks, I said. He gestured again for a lighter. Não fumo, I said. He shrugged and walked off. A voice from the overhead speakers warned: Fifteen minutes until lights out, lights out in fifteen minutes. The zeladors began breaking up the card games and herding the patients inside. The President stood at the door, directing traffic. Speechless refused to go in, dizzying himself in revolving door until the zeladors shove him inside. I lingered, savoring every last breath, the first fresh air I’d had in days. A clear night, a warm breeze on my cheek. The benzo, smoothing the edges of my rage. Três tigres tristes para três pratos de trigo. A zelador fell behind me, walkie-talkie chirping. From the 4th floor, Othoniel watched over the courtyard, his face a sad oval in the barred window. Três pratos de trigo para três tigres tristes. 238 That night a slow storm passed over the manicômio. I tossed on the gurney, groggy but afraid to sleep, listening to rain puddle the courtyard. A bored zelador monitored the corridor, toying with his stun gun, a crackling blue spark flaring periodically from his station. Clouds lingered in the morning, grimy smears outside the barred windows. Yawning, the zelador sifted through his keys and unlocked the rusty gate. A few patients in the corridor drifted to the cafeteria as if sleepwalking. On the gurney beside me, Othoniel sat awake on his mattress, mouth agape, fingertips in the back of his mouth, a look of concentration on his face as if he were trying to pry something free. Last night’s food had turned to stone in my stomach. I waited a moment on the gurney, held my eyes closed and opened them again, willing myself from a nightmare to a waking state, to a time before I knew the name Dom Ricardo, before I’d contacted Daveison, before I’d embarked on this fool’s journey to Brazil, but the ache in my gut told me it was useless. Those doors had been opened; this was the one and only world. I gathered my bearings and walked to the cafeteria. At the medicine counter, the zeladora seemed distracted with her music player. I tried to pass directly through the turnstile. Stop there, she said without looking up. 239 The other one gave me my pills already, I said. The zelador at the turnstile snatched my wrist, read my ID tag into his walkietalkie. Chirp-chirp. A static-voice confirmed that No, I hadn’t taken my medicine. My pills and water spun around on the turn box. I tapped them into my mouth and swallowed. Open up, the zelador said, peering into my mouth. Now lift up your tongue. Ta bom, go on. No line yet for food. I slid my tray along. A lone, groggy patient served me a piece of bread, a slice of ham, a slice of cheese, and a juice box. In the back of the kitchen, the nursemaid from the day before leaned over a large industrial sink, scrubbing her yellow blouse on a washboard. A sane, familiar face. Por favor, I mouthed to her. Ajuda-me… She ignored me, held her blouse to the light of the window. Only a few other patients were scattered among the rows of empty tables. The graffiti laced Formica smelled of Maravillosa and my appetite evaporated. On the television, Bom Dia Rio! showed a crowd lined up outside a Leblon apartment building, each of them with a small black dog. Some were fat, others were slender, and most of them weren’t even pugs, but everyone thought the dog they carried was Pelé, beloved pet of that famous Carioca model. At the table beside me, Speechless watched the news, furious, tears streaking his face. I stuffed my mouth with bread. At the cafeteria entrance a young nun clicked through the turnstile. She passed from table to table offering prayers, sprinkling patients 240 with holy water. She sat with Speechless, clasped his hands in hers, and whispered something as she met his pooling eyes. When he regained his composure, she handed him a pocket bible. I scarfed down the last of my ham and cheese and hurried over to her. Freira? Can I speak to you? Meu filho, where are your sandals? I don’t belong here, I said. I’m an American. I’ve been sent here as a punishment. We have to find new sandals for you. I need your help. She touched my shoulder: Todos nós precisamos de ajuda do Senhor, she said, opening her vial of holy water, eyes radiant with the sympathy. The more I asked for help, the more I seemed completely doido. Freira, I’m serious. If you could help me find a telephone-A sprinkle of water on my nose. The freira moved on to the next table. These poor nuns, forever serving malqueridos. They had been in this city for three centuries, since the days of the foundling wheel; they would be here three centuries from now, when everyone in this building had turned to dust. Walking figure eights in the courtyard. More blood, more air. I needed a plan. In the bright of day, the walls looked higher, their broken glass teeth more fierce. Even if I managed a way over, it was hard to tell our location. No sounds of traffic, no vapor trails low in the sky. We could be miles from the city. 241 The sun worked its way higher. Patients filled the courtyard, returning to their routines--arm wrestling, cards, singing. One of the zeladors dropped a bola on the muddy grass and set a clipboard on the table. The President seized the ball and handed the clipboard to the tatoooed Indio. A few others used their sandals to dig goal boxes. The men divided into two teams and removed their sandals and began a lethargic game of futebol. The president refereed. The tattooed Indio jotted on the clipboard with a #2 pencil. Between games I looked over his shoulder at the careful notation--COPA DO MANICÔMIO-- dozens of names on the roster, checkmarks for every goal. The older patients were content to lean against the trees and applaud. I sat on a picnic table and watched the players scramble barefoot across the makeshift field. How long had these men been here? Long enough to forget their old lives? A zelador grabbed my wrist. Levanta-se, he said. Time to see the médico. At last, someone I could reason with. The zelador led me to the second floor administrative hall. The médico and his secretaria shared a narrow office. They sat at a small desk flanked by file cabinets, but no amount of storage could contain the tornado of paper that had touched down. Every surface was littered with patient histories and sheets of yellow legal pad, all periodically rustled by the rotating fan on the desk. The zelador pointed me to a seat and stood in the corner near the coat rack. The médico was a handsome middle-aged man in a crisp blue polo, looking dressed for a game of golf. His secretaria sat at this side with a silver pen and a yellow legal pad, the apparent source of hundreds of yellow sheets strewn around the room. 242 The médico lit a cigarette. Let’s begin then, Jão da Silva #6, he said, glancing at secretaria’s notation. Tell me. Why do you think you are here? The médico smoked two more cigarettes as I explained the story of the past few days. His secretaria took careful notes, squinting now and then when the rotating fan blew curls of smoke into her eyes. I left out the breaking and entering and focused on the conditions in the lock up. The médico wore a grave expression. Now and then he wiggled his index finger in the direction of the young secretary, signaling for her to record some pertinent detail--the white-haired lieutenant, the shot-up Volkswagen, Silva and Big Boy, the peach-fuzzed cadets. “Indeed,” he said. “This is all very serious.” “You speak English?” “Of course.” “Thank God,” I said. “You’re the only one who can help me.” Using English again was like surfacing from deep, frigid waters. “Please, you have to listen to me.” “I’m listening,” he said. “You’re saying there’s a conspiracy against you. We have that written down right here.” He wiggled his finger at his secretary and she held up the yellow notepad with clean, careful notes. “Patient believes there is a conspiracy against him, except of course, she has written it in Portuguese, as is our policy.” “It’s not exactly a conspiracy,” I said. “It’s that Dom Ricardo wants to run for office. An illegitimate son is a PR problem.” It was the first time I’d referred to myself as illegitimate, and a label that now felt ultimately true. “I see,” the médico said. Noticing his secretaria coughing on his cigarette smoke, he adjusted the fan so that it blew only in his direction. 243 “How else do you explain the fact that I speak English?” I asked. “Do I sound Brazilian to you?” “The question here is not, how do you say, civil status,” he said, enunciating extra clearly as if to demonstrate that he, too, could speak fine English. “The police report clearly states that you furnished questionable documents for the Consul. No passport number, no visa number.” “My documentation was taken.” “You even provided a false address.” “I didn’t want the policia ransacking my place.” “Has your apartment been ransacked before?” “No.” Wiggling his finger at the secretary: Patient harbors irrational fears. “These aren’t irrational fears!” I said. The zelador put his hands on my shoulder as if to keep me seated. “If I could just make a phone call--” “There is a phone on the first floor,” the zelador said. “I tried,” I said. “Incoming calls only.” “We’ve had troublesome experiences allowing outgoing calls in the past,” the médico said. “Certain patients harbor strong delusions. If someone wishes to get in touch with you—” “How is someone supposed to get in touch with me?” I asked. “You don’t even have my name right. Just give me one call to the Consul.” 244 The secretary looked to the médico for any indication that she should be writing this down. He shook his head. “No need to involve the consul just yet,” the médico said. He reached for another cigarette, but his box was empty. “Mistaken identity has a way of working itself out over time. It’s all a matter of certain paperwork passing through certain channels.” Distracted, he searched for another box of cigarettes in the desk drawers and underneath piles of paper. “Listen, I know you see a lot of genuinely crazy people in here, but I am absolutely, one-hundred percent sane.” Com licença, he asked the zelador. Você pode passar minha jaqueta? The zelador plucked the médico’s suede jacket from the coat rack and passed it across the desk. I watched him fish through the pockets for smokes. There, on the breast pocket, the yellow and green ribbon of the Jóquei Clube Brasileiro. “Is something wrong?” he asked. I glanced around the office. There on the file cabinet, a stack of race betting forms. On the bookshelf near the window, a photograph of médico with a group of men on a fishing boat, Manny Gilberto and his horse-teeth veneers, PR man for the Sociedade Comercial. “You know Manuel Gilberto?” I said. “Who?” the médico said. “You’re a member of the Jockey Club.” “Now you’re just speaking nonsense,” the médico said. He tore open a fresh pack of cigarettes and passed his jacket back to the zelador. He kept the smoke unlit in his 245 mouth as he fumbled through the loose papers on his desk. When he found a prescription pad he scribbled on the top sheet, peeled it off, and passed it to the zelador. The zelador read it and left the room. “Does Dom Ricardo know that I’m here?” The médico switched back to Portuguese. It’s obvious that you haven’t been taking your medication, he said. Now turning to his secretary: Please note that patient suffers from paranoid thoughts. Two zeladors entered the room. Let’s take all precautions to see that this patient follows his new regimen. Sem, Senhor, the zeladors said in unison. I assure you we have many methods, the médico said, lighting his cigarette. If this doesn’t work, we’ll try another. 246 At dusk I hid in the bathroom stall, but the zeladors found me, fed me four bright pills. By the time I’d finished dinner the world was underwater. Now I lingered in the 4th floor corridor, empty beds, crumpled sheets like ghosts, moonlight boxed by the barred windows. Othoniel sat handcuffed to his bed frame, still tugging at something in his mouth. Ah ha! he said, raising a tooth in the moonlight, admiring it like a freshly plucked berry. He slipped it under his mattress and reached into his mouth for another. I wanted to reach out and stop him, but this man was dangerous--a killer or worse. He must have been here for a reason. I needed free of this place. There was no going out the front door. There had to be a way over the courtyard wall, its lips of broken glass. I dragged a bed near one of the windows and stood on the frame and peered outside. Another game of futebol. The Indio with the tattooed arms recorded the goals on the clipboard. One of the zeladors supervised the game, while another supervised the picnic tables, settling a dispute in a game of cards. Near the mango tree on the corner of the courtyard, the a few older patients sang folk songs, Speechless clapping along. The yellow moon hung like a face over the courtyard, reflected bright on a pool of standing water. A shout from the futebol game--the bola sailed across the courtyard and 247 splashed in the pool. Ripples pulsed across the water; the reflected moon quivered; the Indio fetched the bola and the water settled into a perfect mirror. Full moons had always been a melancholy sight. Before I was old enough to understand the astronomy of hemispheres, I’d fantasized that Sonia and I gazed upon the same moon, that when its face was full, we drew closer like tides. When I was old enough to understand that our moons were mirror images, hers waning right, mine waning left, the knowledge made the sky twice as grave, twin talismans, a reminder of our distance, celestial objects pulling our blood apart. But even after I learned the truth, staring too long at the moon could still carve a hole in my heart. The moon was full the night of my seventeenth birthday, the night Mom collapsed in the hay. I’d promised to help hang a new gate before going out to celebrate. It was a hot, sweaty August night, the middle of an infestation of Pandora moths. They swarmed the floodlights in the corral, pinged against the row lights along the barn. They popped under out boots. The moon hung low over the junipers, taking forever to rise, forever to become night, forever until I could get the fuck out and go drink. One moment Mom was holding a hinge, the next she was on her stomach. Dad and I dropped our tools. As we drove the 17 miles to St. Charles, swirls of moths fluttered in the headlights like fat snowflakes. We pulled into the hospital parking lot, their crisp bodies crunching under our tires. The doctor ordered a barrage of tests and gave Mom a room for the night. For months, these overnight tests. The doctors had no luck finding out what was wrong. All summer I would stumble home after work, stale 248 beer on my breath, and find Dad in the kitchen squinting at medicine bottles. Now here we sat in our familiar seats. “You should go meet Gary,” Mom said. “Not with you in here,” I said. “I’m just feeling down in the dumps,” she said. “Your birthday only happens once a year.” I flipped through the pages of a fishing magazine, but I was too furious to read. I’d gotten over being angry at the piece-of-shit hospital, or the incompetent doctors and their perpetual tests. What had me furious was how we’d resigned ourselves to these nights, no urgency in the waiting, just waiting. How Mom had memorized the numbers for the cable channels on the hospital room televisions. How the tests were wearing down the family savings so that Dad and Mom worked over the insurance statements together during Wheel of Fortune. How I wanted the doctors to deliver just one definite piece of news. How I didn’t need the fucking news, because I knew it already: Mom was only going to get worse. Visiting hours closed. Only one of us could stay in the room. I kissed Mom goodbye on the forehead. Out the window, I watched a car cross the parking lot, windshield wipers brushing fat moths onto the asphalt. “I’ll have Gary come over and help finish the gate,” I said. “Forget the gate,” Dad said. He opened up his wallet and handed me two crisp twenties. “Go be young.” 249 In the parking lot of the Pizza Palace, we smoked a bowl of weed. Gary supported the pipe between his lips and lit it with his good hand. Inside we split a pepperoni. They were out of straws. With only one hand, Gary had to set his pizza down if he wanted to take a drink of pop or wipe his face. I did the same. Since elementary school, whenever I ate with Gary, I ate with one hand under the table, to put him at ease. He wasn’t as self-conscious these days, but the habit stuck. “Even if that’s what she has,” Gary said, “there’s all sorts of stuff they can do.” But I was tired of talking about what Mom might have. The moon was full-up now, and that’s when I got blue. “Let’s go find beer.” We shoulder tapped in the Wagner’s parking lot, Gary walking up and down the sidewalk, asking people if they would buy for us. Finally, a shaggy guy in a flannel took our money. “Thanks,” Gary said when the guy slipped the case into our trunk. “It’s my friend’s birthday.” “Birthday boy always gets laid,” he said, winking. But we weren’t getting laid. The Sherriff had busted up the White Rock swimming hole, and the summer drinking scene had moved to backwoods fire pits that Gary and I were never cool enough to be invited to. Tonight we drank and drove around to all the usual camping spots. The entire county was crawling with moths. By midnight we’d only come across cold coals and broken bottles. We gave up our search early and settled for Partway reservoir, a murky shallow at the end of four miles of cinder road, near the county line. An old dusty utility road led right to the water. We parked and pulled up some good sitting rocks around the pit. Juniper branches for firewood, beer 250 box for kindling. Soon the moths swarmed to the fire. By then we were ten deep into the beer. Gary packed and lit another bowl. Bottles and cans and torn underwear littered the dust around the fire pit, like we’d just missed a big party the night before. “Happy birthday,” Gary said, clanking his beer against mine. The moon wavered on the reservoir water. Happy fucking birthday. On the horizon, the mountains were bare and gray in the moonlight. Dying moths squirmed in the fire. How is it that we’d grown accustomed to this pestilence? How is it that I belonged in this town? I’d always imagined Partway as my home, Brazil as the otherworld, but now, gazing across this infested landscape, ghostly in the moonlight, I was certain I deserved another life. “You’re quiet,” Gary said. “Do I need to be talking all the time?” “I’m sure your mom is going to be fine,” Gary said. “Thanks, Gary,” I said. “I’m sure your hand will grow back.” “You’re an asshole.” “You wouldn’t understand.” Mom was asleep by now, Dad drifting away in the blue glow of the television. She was going to die. I thought of the flag stand she’d given me on naturalization day, the Brazilian flag I slept beside, the American flag up there on the moon. I hated my birthday. I thought of science class, and the principles of orbit, how it wasn’t even a full moon in Brazil. I thought of my birth mother, Sonia, a stranger. I thought of Mom and Mom’s medical chart, her six-inch fucking chart. She was going to die. She was going 251 to die, and when she did, it would be all right. It would be all right. She wasn’t my mother anyway. “You’re a selfish prick, you know that?” Gary said. “All you ever do is list off your problems. If you’re so sad about your Mom, how come you never spend time with her?” “Shut up,” I said. “It’s not that.” “Oh so it’s Brazil again? It’s your birthday and it makes you think too much? Boo hood. Give it up--you’re American. Apple pie and the 4th of July, man. I’m sick of hearing this every year.” “I didn’t say anything, so shut the fuck up.” “You got practically everything in this life, but you’re too busy thinking about some other life. Maybe if you opened your goddamn eyes instead of writing in your journal like you’re David fucking Copperfield.” Gary stumbled to his feet. “Where you going?” I asked. “Home.” “How? “I’ll walk,” he said, shattering his bottle against a rock. “Well fuck you!” I said. I pitched the bottle at him, but it sank into a bank of sagebrush. He’d set the truth at my feet like a landmine. My life had been a singular stroke of good fortune. I’d never chewed glass like Ana Luiza. I’d never bounced from home to home to home like Roger. Mom and Dad had given me this entire life, a grace, but I’d forsaken them. 252 Moths hissed and popped in the fire. I searched for Gary in the shadows. He’d be back. We were blood brothers. I was the only one who knew he was afraid of the dark. 253 The second night at the manicômio, I dreamt of Gary and I, chucking stolen eggs against juniper trees, poking at the gooey chicks half-formed in the yolk, and then of Mom cracking eggs in the kitchen, whipping them in a clear glass bowl, pouring the sickly mix down her throat. At sunrise I peeled myself from the gurney and waited for the zelador to unlock the cell gate. I slipped through the cafeteria turnstile before the zeladors were stationed at the pharmacy counter. At the food line, the tattooed Indio was only now slipping on his hairnet. He served me my bread and cheese and juice box, looking ahead to a morning without benzo pills, a few hours to plan my escape. Near the trash bins the nursemaid sat at a table by herself, a towel wrapped around her wet hair. The fluids on her supply cart glowed pink and yellow in the morning light. It hadn’t occurred to me that she might live here; I wondered where she slept. Bom dia, I said. Can I sit with you? She wouldn’t take her eyes from the television. Morning news: Pelé the missing pug was yet to be found. I saw the médico yesterday, I said. He wouldn’t let me use the phone. She dabbed her mouth with a napkin and crumpled the napkin on her tray. That man Othoniel, I said. He pulled a tooth out yesterday. 254 Quê! And you didn’t come find me? I didn’t know where to look. She stood and dumped her leftovers in the trash bin. I’m all over this place, she said, releasing the wheel-brake on her cart. A zelador stopped me at the cafeteria exit. You think you’re so sneaky? Four bright pills, like swallowing bees. In the courtyard the sun was straight above us, a white spot behind thin clouds. My mind was a whirlpool, Portuguese and English swirling, so that it was exhausting to find names for the world--manicômio, nuthouse, zelador, caretaker, pills, pílulas--that one was easy--pílulas, pílulas, pílulas. The benzo blunted my senses, weighed down my legs so that I dragged my sandals like concrete boots. I laid myself out in the shade of a mango tree, burnt blades of grass on my cheek. The day passed in fits, endless rounds of the Copa do Manicômio unfolding before my eyes. Time was a smashed cuckoo clock. Clouds drifted across the sky at an alarming rate. The President assigning penalties, the tattooed Indio noting goals on his clipboard, the players shouting and whistling like children wound up and set loose on the playground. An airplane hung suspended in the air, motionless, soundless, until I blinked and suddenly the airplane was vanished and it was dark and I heard the P.A. announcement for dinner. Four bright pills at dinner, a thin film of benzo over my eyes, like moisture on a mirror. The cafeteria was a cavern of laughter, television droning. Now I heard the 255 click-clap of the lawyer’s heels on the concrete floor? Was she here to sign me out, to take me home? No. She was Speechless, tapping a spoon on the table top. Nobody was coming. It was clear Dom Ricardo intended for me to experience the grind of this, a taste of what could happen, of where I could stay. Or else he intended for me to die here. In the courtyard after dinner, cards, arm wrestling, futebol. Under the mango tree in the corner, old men singing old tunes, Speechless patting a rhythm on his pant legs. Considering the circumstances, they didn’t sound so bad. The P.A. summoned us to bed. In the corridor I stood on a bed and gazed out the barred window. Over the high-walled courtyard, I thought I glimpsed the glow of Cristo Redentor in distant Martian clouds. The zelador slammed the cell gate, brandished the blue spark of his stun gun. Hey you! Get to bed! I lay on the gurney. After spending the day half-asleep, I could barely close my eyes. The corridor echoed with moans, grunts, sleeptalk of two dozen restless souls. I needed sleep thoughts: irrigation sprinklers clicking steadily outside my old bedroom window; the soft bleating of lambs in the pasture; a civilization of frogs gurgling in grass. I was stirred awake by a tapping noise beside me. I rolled over. Othoniel slumped off the edge of his mattress, one end of his bed sheet knotted around the window bars, the other end cinched around his neck like a scarf. His heels kicked the concrete, his face growing darker, a purple shade visible even in the dim of the moon. 256 Oi! I called down the corridor. I rolled off the gurney and tried to lift his deadweight, to untangle the sheet from his neck. Ajude-me! Alguém! The chirping of zeladors, boots in the corridor. Patients rolled awake, mumbled, rolled asleep. The zeladors lifted Othoniel by his armpits, untangled the sheet from his neck. He sprawled on the bare concrete, tongue slobbering from his mouth like a slug. The zeladors balled up the sheet and turned back down the hall. Aren’t you going to do something? I asked. It never kills him, they said. It’s not high enough. He needs help. We’ll tell his mother. They walked down the corridor in tandem. The windows turned to black-barred squares of pink light. A Deus, Othoniel, the nursemaid said, pushing her squeaky cart down the corridor. She stopped at his bed, withdrew a small fat candle, and touched a lighter to the wick. In the glow I could see the color was only now returning to Othoniel’s face. Have you seen Arminda? he asked. Shhh, she said. Hush now meu filho. Is he always like this? I asked. 257 His moods change like weather, she said. On her cart she unwrapped a cloth. Within, three quail eggs. When she set them in Othoniel’s palms, he grinned, testing their tiny weight. He likes these, she said. Cross-legged on the floor, he began juggling, small circles, growing ovular, until the arc of the eggs took them nearly to the ceiling. Why doesn’t the medicine keep him still? When you’ve been here so long, the pílulas only make it worse. So he’s your son? I asked. You ask too many questions, she said. I saw you washing your clothes in the kitchen. Nobody else is going to take care of him. Where do you stay? You should be asleep like everyone else. Down the hall, the zelador stationed at the cell gate was asleep in his chair, stun gun held loose in his hands. I tried to find you this time, I told the nursemaid. I tried to help him. Thank you, she said. What’s your name? Peter, I said. Pe-ter? I knew you didn’t look like a Jão da Silva. Três pratos de trigo para três tigres tristes. A flare of lightning. Thunder. Rain thrummed the roof. Othoniel’s eyes never left the tiny eggs. Três tigres tristes para três pratos de trigo. What’s your name? I asked. 258 Zezé, she said. Now watch this. As a finale, Othoniel covered his eyes with one hand, kept the eggs in motion with the other. Now he clapped his hands, caught all three eggs, and set them spinning like tops on the concrete floor. Opa! I said. Who knew you were so good, Othoniel? For him this is better than any medicine, Zezé said. Why is he here? Nobody has asked me that in a long time. She leaned back into the yellow sphere of candlelight, as if thinking of where to start. They say he killed his sister and her macho. 259 Meu filho Othoniel, minha filha Arminda. For years we lived quietly in Favela Babilônia, in a house my husband built brick-by-brick before he drowned. Next door Edvaldo lived with his mae. That poor woman. Nobody had taught her how to discipline a child, and it was obvious even when Edvaldo was small that he would be um fedelho. But he was Othoniel’s best friend, and Arminda’s crush. Those three were a pázinho-together, noon or night. This was all back in the ‘80s, when the future was coming to Rio. The prefeitura was closing down casinos and opening up metro lines. They were cleansing the streets of malqueridos--the unwanted. Anyone without steady work had to keep clear of the policia. I spent most days on the roof, sewing handbags for sale in the Centro, chatting with friends on other roofs. There was a nice breeze off the sea, and whenever I heard the quick flapping of little sandals in the alleyways, I knew it was Othoniel and Arminda and Edvaldo, headed this way or that, anywhere but school. Back then Rio was overrun with meninos, begging outside restaurants, or else sniffing cheira in alleyways until they were still as statues. But Arminda was afraid of the glue, Othoniel looked up to his big sister, so when the prefeitura offered free biscuits and honey to lure the children to school, they started going, at least for morning hours. 260 Edvaldo tagged along just to be closer to her. They caught rides on the rear-end of the 161 bus. From the rooftop I could see all the way down to Rua Anchieta, my little ones clinging to the bumper, Edvaldo between them, coughing on exhaust as the bus turned onto Avenida Atlântica. I wish Othoniel could tell this story himself. Would you believe that when he first arrived in the manicômio, he was still a bright boy? He would repeat this story every time I visited, so that I could recall every detail for the judge. But the policia had their own story, so the judge never listened. Edvaldo and Arminda were two years older than Othoniel, and all the trouble started when they began lording that over him. Each day, as the bus lumbered past the schoolyard, Edvaldo would count--Um…Dois…Três!--and they would leap from the bumper just in time for morning flag. But the year Edvaldo turned thirteen, he started playing pranks. When Othoniel jumped, Edvaldo and Arminda would stay on board. Othoniel chased after, but the two of them laughed and laughed, waving goodbye as the bus turned the corner. After school Othoniel came back home, eyes pooling up when he saw me at the wash bin. He’d held back tears until he was inside; my poor boy already had enough problems with people thinking he was soft. Now he sat on the step and let it all out, bottom lip quivering like a tuning fork. I said don’t worry, meu filho, there are only so many places they could be. And it was true. The prefeitura had been cracking down on the meninos. The children had become a nuisance, growing bolder each day, annoying turistas and ruining business for 261 the shopkeepers. The policia herded the little ones into a few choice alleyways. Rehabilitation, they called it. There were only a few places anymore where the kids could congregate without taking lumps. Plenty of troublemakers still lingered down at that little beach under the Botafogo piers, swimming and playing sloppy half-field games of futebol. Othoniel found Arminda and Edvaldo there, hiding in the shade of the culvert that drains into the bay. Edvaldo’s small radio filled the tunnel with the music of Jorge Ben, drums echoing hypnotic against the concrete walls. Farther down the tunnel, in the dark, other kids huddled with bottles of cheira, eyes like rubies. Othoniel stood in the mouth of the tunnel, blocked their view of the sea and sky. Vai tomar no cu! Othoniel said. Relax, Edvaldo said, passing a joint to Othoniel. He and Arminda sat with the checkerboard they’d borrowed from Pepe the barber, only they sat beside each other, not across. Arminda had taken off everything but her intimas. Minha filha was a great beauty, but she thought beauty was something to share with everyone. That day she was getting plenty of stares from the doidos passing by on the beach. Edvaldo was showing off his chest hairs, squaring his jaw to look like a tough guy. Why are you guys hiding? Othoniel asked. The sand is too hot, Arminda said. She reached across the checkerboard, twirled Edvaldo’s three tiny hairs in her fingertips. We found you some cócos, Edvaldo said. Beside his radio were three coconuts. These he tossed to Othoniel who cradled them in his skinny arms, examining their weight 262 and balance. This was in the early days of his juggling, but already he was particular. Still, he wouldn’t be distracted. Arminda, stroking Edvaldo’s chest. He stuck those on with glue, Othoniel said. Don’t be jealous, Edvaldo said. Yours will grow in someday. Othoniel stepped outside the tunnel, straddled the stream of muck, and began juggling, a simple warm-up routine. Now Edvaldo traced his fingertips along Arminda’s stomach, examining her pano branco--the white patches on her black skin--leftover from that fungus that was going around those days. Othoniel had the same marks under his shirt. Put your clothes back on, Othoniel told his sister. Fica-frio! Edvaldo said. But at the end of the day, when they counted cruzeiros, it was Othoniel with the most money. Instead of wasting his time with checkers, he was learning a skill. For some people that made him soft, but he knew that someday his cócos would earn him enough for a dozen radios. So he ignored Edvaldo whispering in Arminda’s ear, and focused on the cócos, coarse on his palms, daydreaming of his coconut stand. He talked about that cóco stand to anyone who would listen. He planned to go early to market for the best cócos. He would sell agua de cóco and gelado and cerveja, all at fair prices, Jorge Ben jamming from his stereo so that the customers lingered. He would keep his machete clean and sharp, because turistas like clean, and with his glinting blade hack a star shaped opening at the top of the cóco, because everybody knows turistas like a star shaped cap on their drink. Later the policia wanted me to believe Othoniel was angry, jealous, even. But I told them the story of his tapeworm pills, how I came home to find his bottle empty and 263 swatted him raw with a wooden spoon. It turned out he shared his doses with a dozen other children in Favela Babilônia. I told Othoniel that’s now how the medicine works, those pílulas were for you alone. They were supposed to last a week. You see, there are those who take, and those who give, and Othoniel was not a taker. He wanted that cóco stand so he could give jobs to Edvaldo and Arminda. He understood what work could cost a family. Othoniel was too young to remember when his father fell into the bay, but it was an absence he could never forget. He just wanted everyone he loved to work together on the beach. Tudo tranqüilo, he said. He promised he would always save a seat for me in the shade. This is what meu filho would dream at night. And look at him now. It seemed one year the gringos came for Carnival and never left. Now they flooded the Zona Sul year round, turning red on the beaches, drinking night and day, gorging themselves on shrimp dumplings and bobó, practicing guidebook Português, asking perfect strangers for sex or marijuana, snapping photos of the meninos de rua and the policia militar. The prefeitura was getting what it wanted. In the evenings turistas rushed from Copacabana to Ipanema to watch the sunset light the surf on fire. These were the hours when Edvaldo and Arminda would walk the shore, hands out, practicing their broken English phrases. Can you please have me? I am very honey! Othoniel lingered behind, weaving through a sandy maze of white legs, eyes keen for policia eager to pinch him like a roach. 264 Tonight Othoniel found a clear spot of beach, filled his lungs, and shouted: Coconut Juggling, the Most Dramatic in Brazil! Few of the gringos understood him, but he soon had the attention of a small crowd. Now that he was going on thirteen, he was proud of his own upkeep, scrubbing own his shorts and shirts so he looked presentable. A brief pause, for suspense. Then he tossed his cócos skyward. They rose and returned to his hands, as if on wires, Othoniel spinning in circles--one, two, three times--dizzy, preparing for the finale. He closed his eyes, juggled two cócos with one hand, holding the third one in the other, kissing it like a hairy breast. At the sound of applause he opened his eyes and the cócos fell into his arms. Bowing deeply, he held out his hand for a tip. Obrigado! the gringos said, Portuguese like marbles in their mouths. Drunk already, stinking of cachaça, they surrendered their coins. A policeman guarding one of the new bank machines watched from the edge of the sand. He hesitated a moment, afraid to spoil his freshly polished boots, but then hurried across the beach to break up the crowd. Muevalo, he told Othoniel, hand on his baton. Othoniel retreated to a dumpling stand across the street, breathed in the sweet smell. The guard chased after him, but Othoniel escaped through traffic. Up the beach near Posta 9, Othoniel found Edvaldo up to one of his old tricks, zigging his eyes this way and that, clinging to Arminda like a blind person. I’d watched him practice this act from the rooftop. He used to be pretty convincing. Gringos would shell out like he was their own son and he would return each night with pockets full of coins. But lately it wasn’t fooling anyone. Folks were still willing to give Arminda 265 money just to see that pretty smile, but Edvaldo had grown into that tough guy he’d always planned on being, and blind or not, he scared the turistas. That night, all of Babilônia fell asleep to the sound of Edvaldo’s mother screaming after him like a cat, breaking glass, throwing pans, a crazy jazz that woke the entire hill. Lately his mother had outfitted him in Mickey Mouse t-shirts, to make him seem younger, in baggy shirts, to make him look hungrier, but it was no use. Edvaldo gave the costumers a chance, did what he could for his mother, but at his age the policia would take any reason to haul him to detention. For meninos de rua, growing old is a curse: money comes so easy when you have a baby face, but one day in the mirror you see stones in your eyes, and understand why turistas huddle near streetlights until you pass. Edvaldo’s time had come. We heard him flee his mother’s home, shouting from the alleyway below. Oi! he announced. Peering out our windows, we rubbed our eyes. On the corner Edvaldo stood shirtless, waving. That’s it for me! he called out, almost singing. Agora eu só com deus! And that’s how Edvaldo ended up alone with God. Arminda and Othoniel continued with school. The prefeitura was making new efforts to teach the children English, so that all citizens of Rio would be able to speak to turistas of the Gran Historia do Brasil. I heard Othoniel and Arminda every day in the stairwell, practicing phrases like scales. Good morning, did you know that our country is shaped like a heart? On weekends, they roamed the beaches looking for Edvaldo. 266 To their surprise, he was looking better and better. You’ve never eaten like this before, he told them one night, huddled in the beach culvert with Chinese food from the restaurant up the street. They’d waited patiently in the alleyway, and when out came the night’s trash they filled their shirts like baskets, beef, chicken and endless rice. Edvaldo had learned two or three things on the rua. He snatched fresh shirts and shorts from lines all across the city and never wore the same thing twice. For money he’d been guarding parked cars or washing windows or hunting alley rats, and now he had enough cash to roll as much marijuana as he wanted. They listened to Jorge Ben, laughing, smoking, Edvaldo with his arm around Arminda. Othoniel told me he didn’t mind so much; Edvaldo seemed happy; they were together again. Tonight Edvaldo was telling stories: You remember that one-legged malquerido who sold the painted eggs? he said. Well the justiceiros snatched him up in a black sedan. We found him with his nose knifed off. They carved him up like soapstone. Othoniel watched Arminda. She listened as if every word were gold. He’s just running his mouth, Othoniel said. None of that stuff is true. You think you know? Edvaldo said. I’ll show you something. He told them to finish their smoke. They walked along Avenida São Carlos, the bay dotted with the bright dots of ships, lighthouse beam turning on the horizon. He led them down a rocky slope to the underside of the pier. Now and then the shallow waters brightened from the flare of the lighthouse and just as quickly fell dark. Right here, Edvaldo said. The light swung around and brightened the body of a young man, pale and leaking like a rotten fish, his mouth brimming with rocks. I saw them do it, Edvaldo said. Waves lapped the shore. I guess he didn’t sink like he was supposed to. 267 You weren’t scared? Arminda asked. Justiceiros don’t scare me, Edvaldo said. That night, walking home, Othoniel warned Arminda: You better tell him to be careful. You think he’s getting all that money washing cars? É dinheiro errado. He’s a man, now, Arminda said, bold and stubborn como eu. He can take care of himself. I didn’t find out any of this until a week or so after. Othoniel came home like he’d seen his own ghost. What’s wrong, meu filho? Turns out maybe Edvaldo should have been more careful about showing off that body. Othoniel had found him huddled in an alleyway with a can of cheira and a broken arm. And why? Edvaldo had been sleeping under a palm leaf when the justiceiros picked him up, dragged him to the detention hall to cure his big mouth with the parrot’s perch. For an entire night they strung him upside down and poured Maravillosa down his nose and throat. After that, a week in the cells. The guards warned him: Next time, he would be named manager of the detention hall, his job to beat the other children, or be beaten by the guards--a death sentence--when a manager was set back on the street, enemies waited on every corner. Come home, Othoniel said. My mother hates me. Then stay with us, Othoniel said. What, so I can be spoiled? Edvaldo said. There’s no going back. 268 That night Othoniel woke to familiar voices in the alleyway, and thought for sure Edvaldo had changed his mind. He was coming home. But when he felt the empty space beside him on the bed, when he looked out the window and saw two figures slip into the shadows, he knew that it was Arminda--gone. What did I do to drive away minha filha? I never beat her, never teased her the way other mothers tease their girls. I tell myself maybe it was because of the day they found her father washed up on the shores of the bay. In the waiting room that morning, the inspector offered her a strawberry candy. She wouldn’t take it. I was summoned to identify my husband. Arminda wanted to come inside, she wanted to see him. I wouldn’t let her. I knew there would be nothing left to recognize. I left Arminda behind to hold baby Othoniel. Was that morning the reason why she grew so cold? I can’t say for sure. She never spoke of it. And that’s the trouble. If I could tell you exactly how all this happened, I could have done something to stop what happened next. Without his pázhino, Othoniel wandered the streets alone. By then he had mastered his cócos and his routine resembled a magic show. A fourth cóco was added, balanced like a stone on his head until the perfect moment when he tipped his chin forward and set it into motion with the others, juggling four now, higher than the streetlamps. I never saw him drop a single cóco. The beach vendors would pay him a few cruzeiros to perform in front of their kiosks. Turistas begged Othoniel for a second 269 act, a third. His smile never failed to win their applause, but when the show was over, grief slipped onto his face again. Arminda worked in the zona now, on a corner so dark even the taxis wouldn’t stop. Every night I walked the stairwell, lighting candles for the orixás, hoping they would show Arminda the way home. On the weekends I sent Othoniel to look for her. The night he finally found her, he could barely tell the story. After weeks of searching, he discovered them squatting behind a billboard--cardboard and palm leaf beds, a coffee can fire. Nobody tells us what to do here, Arminda said. She and Edvaldo passed a light bulb back and forth, kissing the glass, savoring the thin curls of white smoke. You’ve got to come home, Othoniel said. Mae esta preocupada. Tell your mother this is love, Edvaldo said. You can’t change love. And yes, Othoniel confessed to me later that in that moment he wanted Edvaldo dead. Meu filho was a brave child, always braver than his size. When the three of them were very small, the policia had stopped them on the walk home, hauled them into an alley. The men had put Othoniel and Edvaldo face against the wall, made Arminda take off her clothes and dance. Edvaldo stood quiet, as if it were only a storm passing overhead. The policia unbuckled their pants for the show. It was Othoniel who threw himself against the policia, punching, not caring whether they strung him on the parrot’s perch, or filled his mouth with rocks, because his sister was crying now. Yet Edvaldo just stared at his sandals. The policia buckled their belts and sent Othoniel to the concrete with their batons. You’re going to have big nuts when you grow up, they told him. 270 But that afternoon behind the billboard, watching Arminda and Edvaldo shuffle through trash for leftover cheira, Othoniel didn’t feel brave at all. When at last Arminda found a final sniff of glue, she looked up with eyes of glass. If we go home will you teach us how to juggle? she said, laughing. Please, little brother? It was only the pedra. Yet Othoniel reached into his pocket and counted out several bills. If they had money, Edvaldo would have no reason to put Arminda to work. Sair daqui, viado! Edvaldo said, snatching the money. And that word, viado, you know how it is in among the meninos. The rua is a small world. That word was already following Othoniel around, but now Edvaldo spoke it like a hot brand, and before long even the smallest meninos in the Zona were treating my son like a faggot. So now it was Othoniel alone with God. While everyone around him was ficando doido, he walked to school by himself, juggled his cócos on the beach every afternoon. Some nights he counted sixty or seventy cruzeiros into my hand. I would press his cheeks close to me, and say, Meu filho, meu Othoniel, gracias a deus. For a year it was routine. Othoniel, trudging up the hill, cócos cradled in his arm. Inside the house, I lay awake, waiting for him. I can still feel his kiss on my forehead. Estou em casa, mae. He stacks his coins carefully in the sugar tin. He empties the buckets of rain leaked from the roof, extinguishes the bedside candles with wet fingertips. He unrolls his bed, and though we are both still, we are both awake. We cannot close our eyes for the patter of drops in the buckets, quickening as the rain keeps coming. 271 It was after Lent, in the rainy month of April, when Arminda came slouching onto the beach to call on Othoniel for a favor. She summoned him into a dim alleyway, eyes putty-gray, bottom lip split like a fat red worm. By then she had been working more than a year in the zona. Skinny as a drumstick, yet somehow her hair was still smooth and shiny. She’d just been hitting pedra, he could tell, her lips burnt raw from the hot glass. Help me brother, she said. Nobody else will help me. She lifted her shirt. At first he noticed only the pano branco, those old white patches of skin on her stomach. When they were young I skipped a week of meals to afford the cream to get rid of that fungus. There are so few things a woman like me can ever do for her children. I knew that if it spread to their faces, it would forever mark them as malqueridos. Every night for a month I massaged the stinky cream into their skin. At last the pano branco receded, except for the two matching white spots on each of their bellies. But tonight Othoniel saw something else--Arminda’s stomach taut with a baby. He told her that they would find help, that I would know someone with a remedy. But Arminda insisted there was only one way. She leaned up against the wet brick wall, eyes weepy from the cheira, and brought the bottle to her nose for one last huff. She braced herself. She told Othoniel it would be easy, easy, she said, just one kick, como um futebol, she said, lifting her shirt higher. In the distance, musicians, drums echoing like pebbles pitched in the alleyways. The way the policia tell the story, Othoniel delivered a fatal blow. From then on, it’s the same old song. He found Edvaldo in the zona, killed him on the street. Strangled, stabbed, nobody knows, because the policia never produce bodies. Bodies are always 272 vanishing around here, rising from the dead to walk into the sea. The policia started into their tune about the boy who killed his sister and her man. A story to cover up Edvaldo, to explain away the disappeared. Othoniel was sent to special detention. They said he wasn’t a boy anymore, that he required security measures. I pleaded with the officials. They promised a trial if we could afford an abogado. Until then he would wait in the manicômio. When I sold the house to hire the abogado, they said a trial could wait. This was twenty-five years ago. I was still a young woman then. I have spent the last of my youth begging. They say I am wrong about Othoniel, that I’m afraid to admit that their story is true. I hate to imagine it. Arminda bracing herself, palms flat against the wet wall, turning her pretty face away as if Othoniel intends to strike her there instead. Does he do what she asks because he thinks it is Edvaldo’s baby, because he seeks revenge? Or does he fulfill her wish because he knows what we all learn sooner or later, that some children walk this world alone with God, while others don’t have the luck to be born? Either way, each night I say prayers for them. For Othoniel, for Arminda, even for Edvaldo. Then I say a prayer for that unborn child. 273 The candle expired. Othoniel sat empty handed on the mattress, gazing at the three eggs on the concrete floor. Zezé wrapped the eggs in a towel and lifted herself to her knees. Come with me, she said. And be quiet. At the cell gate, the zelador gently snored. We quietly made our way past him, into the stairwell, down to the second floor offices. Rain streaked the windows, glowing white where the moon lit the glass. At the médico’s office door, Zezé slipped a key into the lock. His screensaver lit the room, a slideshow of a fishing trip, the médico proudly holding a drum fish. On the desk a telephone blinked red with ignored messages. Zezé withdrew a blue and orange telephone card from her purse. It might not have any minutes left, she said. Her lips moved as she tried to read the instructions on the back. Here it says calls to E.U. She handed me the card. I dialed the pin number and then Partway. Tem dois minutos por esa llamada. A few distant tones, thick silence, and then ringing. Zezé checked the hallway for zeladors. A click on the line--the answering machine. Dad had finally changed the message: You’ve reached Michael Randolph at 382-9678, please leave a message. 274 “Dad, I said. “This is an emergency. If you’re there, please pick up…” An instant later I heard my own voice echoed, delayed, in the receiver. “I’m still here in Rio and I’ve been arrested. This is my only chance to use the phone. Right now they have me locked up in a place called…” I shuffled around the desk for letterhead, a business card, anything. Here was a piece of mail: “Hospital Custodial y Tratamento de Rio de Janeiro,” I said. “Custody and Treatment Hospital of Rio de Janeiro. It’s on Avenida São Carlos in the Tijuca district. You have to notify the U.S. Consul as soon as you get this.” I remembered the phone in the recreation room. What’s the number for the phone in the sala? I asked Zezé. Não sei, she said. Nobody ever calls. I checked the telephone for a list of extensions. Nothing. I glanced around the desk. “Please, Dad--” I said into the phone. Taped to the bottom of the computer monitor, beside a picture of the médico and a smiling kid who looked just like him, was a list of extensions around the building: Sala de Divertimento--4567-3902. “You can try to call me at 4567-3902. It’s a Rio de Janeiro number. Give it to the Consul, too.” Tem um minuto por esa llamada. “You were right,” I said. “I’m in way over my head.” The machine beeped, ending the message. No minutes left to try again. We have to go, Zezé said. 275 I have to try the Consul. There is no time, she said. Por favor, just one more minute. A phone book weighed down a stack of loose patient histories on top of the file cabinet. I flipped to the government agencies. Look, Zezé said. I’ve done you a favor. Don’t make me lose my job over this. I dialed the number. Just one more second. Para falar na Português, primo o número um. To speak in English, press— I pressed 2, which transferred me to a labyrinth of automated directory. From down the hall, the chirping of zeladors on walkie-talkies. I hung up the phone and flipped through the phone book for Daveison’s number. Zezé ducked behind the desk, pulled me down with her. The zelador ambled past, yawning. One more call, I said. We must go. Please. I’m sorry, Zezé said. This is all I can do for you. Her eyes told me there was no use arguing. We slipped out of the office. Zezé locked the door. Back to bed. All I could do now was hope. CHAPTER THIRTY Sonia wandered the aisles of the market, clutching Mrs. Alfonso’s shopping list. The price tags spread panic like a virus. The novo cruzeiros were failing. Prices for arroz, frijoles, bife--even toilet paper--were higher. Prices for arroz, feijão, bife— even toilet paper—were higher. In the next aisle, a woman argued with the 276 store clerk. What do you mean no milk? Farther down, two more women clamored over the last box of soap like a tug of war. The tile floor shined, spotted with centavos, old and new, so many coins that Sonia had to be careful not to slip. Children wandered the aisles, pocketing novo cruzeiros, letting the old ones clink to the tile. At the cashier, Sonia came up short with the payment, sorted through the groceries for anything she could leave behind—furniture polish, birdseed, mint candies. Instead she paid the last 500 cruzeiros from her own purse. No, Mrs. Alfonso would accuse her of stealing. She would never believe these new prices, that her allotment of novo cruzeiros was not enough. Sonia needed everything. For the sake of trust. Whatever that was. She paid the last 500 cruzeiros from her own purse. Outside, pouring rain. On the sidewalk, the man who had purchased the last cans of milk was selling them again for double. By the time Sonia returned to No. 427, the damp paper grocery bags were tearing at the seams. Sonia put away the groceries. She set an egg to boil and placed a sweaty can of Coke on the kitchen table for Mr. Alfonso. He arrived, as usual for Monday, promptly at 12:15. She cracked open the soda can. I’ve been waiting for you, she said. He took his seat. She stood behind him. I apologize for my wife, Mr. Alfonso said, lifting the can of Coke and wiping a ring of perspiration from the table. She is particular about how she likes Juliana to be dressed for school. I didn’t mean any harm, Sonia said. 277 I know you didn’t, Mr. Alfonso said. He took a long pull from the Coke, jugular throbbing with every sip. He did not meet her eyes. I will tell her that we’re keeping you. At the counter Sonia spread butter on a roll of bread and set it on a plate. She spooned the egg from the boiling water and peeled it over the sink. She sliced it cleanly and arranged the slices in a half-moon on the plate. When she turned, he was waiting, fork in hand. Algo mais? she asked. Nothing more for now, he said. Sonia took a seat across from him. There was an understanding in his eyes. O senhor, she said, now that we have a chance to speak in private-I already know, he said. From his jacket pocket he pulled an envelope, set it on the table. These are old cruzeiros, he said, but beginning next week, we will be paying you in novo cruzeiros. You have my word on this. She didn’t know how to proceed. None of the words she had practiced with Jackie felt right, but silence was not an option. She watched him finish his roll, brushing crumbs from his tie to the floor. He fished through his jacket pockets for a cigarette. He slipped one between his lips and leaned forward. Sonia reached into her apron for matches, struck one, and held it out for him, smell of flame and sulfur, same as policia burning billboards. We have more to speak of than just money, Sonia said, waving out the match. Smoke ribboned to the ceiling. Rain sizzled on the roof. She touched her stomach. Isso, he said. I can’t be held responsible for what you do on weekends. 278 This did not happen on a weekend, she said. Oi, Sonia. You have to be joking. It’s been only those few times. She tried to speak up, voice like thin glass: This is yours inside me, o Senhor. You’re making a big mistake here. No mistake, she said. I’m sure of it. Puta que pariu, he said. Imagining things. Well I wonder what your wife would think of my imag-He pounded the table with his palm: Voce sabe quem esta falando? But Sonia did know who she was talking to. Jackie was right. A scoundrel, a cheater, a man who should pay for his mistakes. Mr. Alfonso looked around as if at any moment his wife could hear, as if the parakeet might relay the truth when she returned. He wiped his mouth with his sleeve. If you’re so sure, then I can give you money for that, too. Was this child so easily bribed away? Something to be placed in the JUNCO box? Sonia tried to think what Jackie would do. No, senhor, Sonia said. You’ll give me the money for this week and next week and ten weeks. For a moment when he stood and wrapped his arms around her, she thought back to that first lust in the bathroom, but now he squeezed her, rifled through her apron for the house key, and carried her like a misdelivered package to the back step. Sonia slapped her hand against the pane glass, shouting, until a policia down the alleyway glared, waiting for her to retreat. The rain had quit and now the air was thick and muggy. The courtyard of the Plaça da Quimera was slippery with littered coins. The baby kicked. 279 Jackie will help. Save your crying until you get home. Jackie always knows what will help. The midday bus was nearly empty. On the Rua de San Luis, already the prefeitura workers had finished replacing the billboard burned the week before. The new display stood on fifteen-foot poles, safe from the malqueridos: The photo-family gathered for evening prayer, spotless, unpeeled by wind and water. Ame-o! Love it. Deixe-o! Leave it. 280 After three nights in the manicômio, my teeth were thick with scum. The benzo shrank the days and swelled the nights. Each morning I gnashed a fresh notch on my ID bracelet, afraid to lose track of time. Three nights here, two nights in the lock-up, however many nights in between. A week at least since the jockey’s apartment, since I’d been renamed Jão da Silva. No more skipping medicine. I’d crouched under beds or behind trees, listening to the chirp of walkie-talkies drawing closer, but the zeladors always found me, pinched my nose and checked my mouth. Best to swallow and forget. This morning I shuffled through the line for the pharmacy counter, presented my chewed ID bracelet to the zeladora behind the glass. A cup of four pills, a cup of water in the turn box. The young nun circled the cafeteria for morning blessing, but the patients were engrossed in the morning news: The famous Carioca model’s Leblon neighborhood, overrun with little dogs. Residents from across the city had been scooping up any black dog they encountered, hoping by chance it was the model’s beloved pet. When it wasn’t the match, they set the animal loose in the alleyways, and now black dogs of all shapes and sizes wandered outside the boutiques, panting in the shade, begging for gelato, growling at cameramen. The real dog had been found overnight by a member of the model’s entourage. Pelé had been restored to his rightful place. 281 At the food line, the tattooed Indio served me a thin bowl of soup and two juice boxes. I found a seat beside Speechless and the old men who sang under the mango tree. Familiar faces at least. They ate silently, staring at the screen. The camera panned across the model’s suspended mansion. Split level pool, crystal dining room, stainless steel kitchen, game room, master bedroom the size of the cafeteria. So tell us, asked one of the old men, is that what it’s like growing up in America? You should ask the President, I said. He’s somewhere around here. I mean for everyday people, the old man said. That dog lives better than anyone I used to know, I said, as if America was from a past I would never see again. The footage of the mansion didn’t stop. Juice bar. Home theater. Maid’s quarters. Butler’s quarters. Chef’s quarters. Trampoline room. Listening room. Hot rock massage room. Speechless and his friends watched the procession, transfixed. At the medicine counter, patients queued up at the turn box, awaiting their doses. I gazed slack jawed into my lukewarm bowl of soup, dreaming of escape, as if I could dive into the salty broth and live like a sea monkey. Now the camera zoomed on Pelé, tongue hanging from his mouth, lounging on a fuzzy pillow beside a bowl of blended açai. Speechless pointed at the screen, then tapped his chest. What’s he saying? I asked the old man. He says that life should have been his. 282 In the sala I found the President leaning against the wall by the phone, receiver pressed close to his lips. He spoke urgently, eyelids twitching. At the end of his imagined conversation, I stopped him before he could dial again. Com licença, I asked. I’m waiting for a call. Could you make your call later? Are you telling me what to do? No. You already owe me two favors. I remember. This phone is only for emergencies. This is an emergency. He glanced out the window to where a new futebol game was beginning in the courtyard. Okay, he said, but this makes three. I pulled up a chair by the telephone, desperate for it to ring. I imagined Dad listening to my message, my lunatic rambling. I knew my father, his sense of justice, his sense of pride. Either he would think I deserved whatever trouble I was in, or he would figure I should clean up my own messes. Nearby, a patient stood alone at the foosball table, spinning bars at random. At the window, comatose patients watched the clouds swamp the sun, stirring a bit when thunder shook the room. Light rain spotted the glass. The zelador supervising the room doodled with crayons, got bored, and began melting crayons in the blue spark of his stun gun. When the P.A. announced dinner, the President poked his head through the sala door, bald head dripping sweat. 283 Did your call come? he asked. Not yet. Hey, is your name Peter Randolph? Yes, I said, standing. Isso, he said, scratching his chin. Why? What happened? I remember some guy called for you this morning. Why didn’t you tell me? He didn’t know the code word. Benzo, brain adrift, eyes like peeled cherries. Nothing to do after dinner but walk the corridor, toiling just to stay awake, shoulder to shoulder with my reflection on the tile. Lightning, thunder, the manicômio trembled. Othoniel rattled his handcuffs on the bed frame, gleeful. I stood on a bed and peered outside. Curtains of rain. The patients mucked around in a sloppy futebol game. The President stood on the sidelines, rain washing his hair across his face. The old men huddled under the mango tree in the corner, singing folk music, Speechless clapping along. The P.A. announced lights out, early on account of the worsening storm. The President signaled for the players to keep going--the game wasn’t over. Outside, the zeladors struggled to herd loose patients through the revolving door. I heard the chirp of walkie talkies down the corridor, extra hands being summoned to help contain the mess outside. 284 The President called a penalty. The offending team protested, but the President insisted, ordered the other team to line up for a penalty kick. Before they could settle the dispute, a zelador walked across the field and snatched the muddy bola in his hands. The tattooed Indio shoved him to the ground and took it back. All at once the courtyard disintegrated into chaos. Rain blew sideways. Patients scattered. However omnipresent the zeladors seemed in their identical uniforms and walkie talkies, it was obvious now that only a few staffed the hospital. Now I counted four six trying to herd the dozens of patients through the revolving door, their pepper spray useless in the wind. One zelador held a stun gun in his hand, hesitant to use it in the rain. This was my only chance. I hurried along the corridor, feet weighed down by days of endless benzo, stripping sheets from their mattresses. Othoniel stood at the window, watching me twist four sheets tight, knotting them into a long rope. Have you seen Arminda? he asked. Arminda is fine, Othoniel. Through the window, I heard a zelador call through the PA system: Policia militar are on their way. If you don’t come inside right now, it’s going to end up just like last time. I pulled pillowcases from the beds and wrapped them around my hands like giant mittens. Othoniel said nothing as I ran down the corridor. Rounding the stairwell, my legs were blubber. I pushed through the revolving door to the moonlit courtyard where now the President stood on a picnic table, naked, waving his yellow jumpsuit like a flag, cheering the riot. 285 The mango tree in the corner was my only hope. Speechless and his friends gathered around the trunk, offering their music to the wind. The only stopped their song when I threw my sheet-rope over a high branch. You’ll never make it, one of the old men said. It’s a pretty good idea, though, with the sheets, said another. I tested the sheet-rope. It held my weight. The zeladors were occupied at the picnic tables. I tried to climb the rope, bare feet against the brick wall for leverage. Speechless stepped in and tried to push my ass over. His joined in to help. I reached my right hand over the wall, but the pillowcase wasn’t enough padding. A glass shard pierced my hand like a knife into dough. Crying out, I fell backward, collapsing onto Speechless in the mud. A zelador hustled over, drenched in rain, stun gun crackling blue in his hands. n. Time out, Speechless signaled with a T. His singer friends returned to their spaces under the tree. Told you, one said. This isn’t the movies. It’s a manicômio. The zelador pushed me against the brick wall. A blue spark, a clap of giant hands. I dropped, mouth frothing. The current gripped me, tight like a fist, and that last I remembered was the smell of burning hair. In the pitch of night, I woke, strapped to the gurney. Veins hot, bones scraped clean of marrow. Heart still pounding. Left hand wrapped haphazardly in a brown paper bag. 286 No more rain, as if the storm had been cancelled. I heard a metallic scratching like rats chewing on wire. I turned my neck to see Othoniel yanking at one of the metal bedsprings below his mattress. Now it twisted free, curled like a hook. Zezé! I called out, but my voice was but a cold, damp cord strung loosely from my mouth. The corridor was fast asleep. Othoniel went to work on his shins, gritting his teeth as he scraped. I could only turn toward the wall. Electricity hummed in my chest. The night budged slowly, the moon’s reflection arcing across the tile work, until at last it melted in the morning pink. 287 PART FIVE 288 Abigail summoned Michael and Vanessa to her office for one last request, on behalf of the birth mother. The girl was due to deliver that night. “It’s not that she’s changed her mind,” Abigail said. “It’s that, by law, she has twelve months to revoke her decision. Some mothers are willing to waive that right in exchange for an act of good faith.” “I’m not paying for my baby,” Vanessa said. “That’s not what I’m asking you to do,” Abigail said. How much had they paid already? Lodging, court costs, airline tickets, donations--the sum of the endeavor, two years’ salary. “This gift will be very helpful,” Daveison said. “The girl, she can start a business. Make clothes, a little money. This way she can, how do you say, pick up her life?” The night before, the young mother had moved in to the borning room. Vanessa spied through a crack in the door. No older than sixteen, she told Michael later. Her face was flush with color, her stomach a soft globe. Vanessa said that she only wanted a glimpse, just to imagine what their child might grow up to look like. But when she touched the door handle, a surge of envy left her trembling. Now Abigail removed her reading glasses, waiting for their answer. For the first time, Michael noticed in the corner of her eye a gray film, the beginnings of a cataract. 289 “Is this ordinary?” Michael asked. “Perfectly ordinary,” she said. “A very lucky situation for you Randolphs,” Daveison said. “A child straight from mother. Skip the orphanage.” “Is this even legal?” Vanessa asked. “What we must remember here,” Abigail said, hands folded on the desktop, “is that the Lord has provided us with the opportunity to enact an exchange of the highest order.” Vanessa refused to accompany Michael for the purchase. He walked the aisles alone, holding a picture of a sewing machine that Abigail had clipped from O Globo. He examined each machine. Should it be wrapped? He didn’t even know how to ask the woman behind the counter for the service, but with a few gestures, he conveyed the idea. The cashier wrapped the box in bright blue paper. This he carried back to the orphanage, pausing at every corner to adjust the heavy load. Abigail opened the gift herself. “You didn’t have to spend this much,” she said, examining the machine. “The other ones didn’t look as nice.” Outside the borning room, their last, long hours of waiting. Daveison explained that the girl had been given an extra special medicine to blunt the panic that would follow. He stepped into the room with a clipboard of papers for the girl to sign. It didn’t take long. 290 From the end of the hallway, they heard no wailing, only brief, low groans. When finally the infant’s cries filled the hallway, a handful of other children in the orphanage emerged sleepy from their bunks, sucking their thumbs in the shadows. Daveison said a prayer. Abigail emerged with the baby wrapped in cloth and closed the borning room door. It was a long time before Vanessa would turn over the child to Michael, and when it was finally his chance to hold this delicate blend of air and blood and time, he could not comprehend how that heavy chain of hot afternoons could be reduced to something so light. Their last night in Brazil, the power failed across Rio de Janeiro. They packed their bags by candlelight. Vanessa held the baby while Michael arranged the last items, souvenirs, artifacts of their months on the continent. Sweet liquors and marble statuettes, t-shirts and post cards to disperse back home, meager recompense for those who had offered their dollars and prayers. The telephone clipped the silence. Daveison: “I could not stop her. She says she just wants to hold her. She’s on the bus right now.” Michael hung up the phone and without explanation told Vanessa to pack the baby’s bag, and quickly. He called for a taxi. Every passing car seemed to quake the apartment. A knock at the door, a rapping so loud as to make the child cry. The girl, sobbing on the front steps, now shaking the handle, now pounding her palm on the door, a steady 291 heartbeat, ceasing only when she shouted into the black, balmy night--Meu filho!--as if to splinter the tiny house with the tremor of her voice alone. “She’ll give up soon,” Michael said, and resumed packing the suitcases. Vanessa stood at the back door, clutching the infant to her chest, peering out to the dim alleyway. “No. She won’t.” Michael split the curtains, peered outside. No headlights, no cab waiting. From the steps the girl called out, unrelenting. He extinguished the candles with his fingtertips. They surrendered all but the essentials. No more waiting, no choice in this matter. They slipped out the back door, shadows in the alleyway. Michael felt his waist belt for their documents. They heard the girl keening. Vanessa hushed the child. They slunk around the corner, readied themselves to flee down the boulevard. Michael glanced at the front steps: the mother clutched the sewing machine like a raw black ore. He resolved, at that moment, to forget. 292 Before the sun was full-up, the zeladors unbuckled my straps and led me to an examination room on the first floor. The médico entered, cigarette between his lips, and gawked at the paper bag wrapped like butcher paper around my hand. Opa, he said, peeling away the bag. The glass shards on the wall had split the hand between the middle and ring fingers so that now it flayed open like red wings. We get you cleaned up, no? He left the room, cigarette smoke trailing like exhaust. A zeladora appeared with a plastic tub filled two inches deep with iodine. A hurried, untrained washing. The night before was a cold, hard blur, like falling into a frozen lake; the hot jolt of iodine yanked me to the surface. The zeladora wrapped my hand with gauze, afraid to tighten the dressing, so that when she was finished it resembled a poorly wrapped gift. A knock at the door. My birth father’s lawyer, dressed in sweatpants and a baggy hooded sweatshirt. Without her makeup she looked younger--my age. The zeladora excused herself. “Bom dia,” the lawyer said, taking a seat on a plastic chair underneath the calendar. “I brought you a hot cheese sandwich.” She reached into her purse and presented me with a small foil package. “Made fresh from home. If there’s one strange thing about Americans, it’s that you hardly ever make food fresh at home. Always going out, no?” “Please,” I said, “just let me go.” 293 “You don’t need to worry,” she said. “It’s not poison. My daughter ate one just an hour ago.” “You have to let me out of here.” “We know this hasn’t been the most comfortable of circumstances,” she said, “but believe it or not, we thought you might be safer here. For a while you were doing so good.” She replaced the sandwich in her purse and withdrew a digital camera. “It seems you have been causing some trouble since last we spoke.” She stood, began taking photographs of me--face, hand, ID bracelet, tattered feet. “Why are you doing this?” I said. “You must be tired,” she said, stifling a yawn. “To be honest, I am tired as well. As you can see this engagement is well beyond my normal working hours. This morning my little one is playing her first match in the goalie box. But I’ve been told my willingness to work odd hours is what makes me excel at my job.” “I’ve already called the Consul. They know all about this. I’ve called Daveison.” “You’ll be pleased to know we’ve cleared up much of this, how do you say, funny business with Mr. Daveison. I met him for the first time this morning. He has been looking everywhere for you.” “Let me see him,” I asked. I stood from the examination table. The zeladors in the hallway noticed and rushed inside. The lawyer offered them the hot sandwich. The zelador unwrapped the foil, tore the sandwich in two, and gave one half to his friend. They retreated to the hallway, pulled down their face masks, and ate. “How to explain this?” the lawyer said. “Daveison is a vulture. He has led you down quite a terrible road. It is a sad truth that there are more and more men like him 294 these days, taking advantage of young people like yourself, extorting respectable people like my client.” “You’re lying.” It couldn’t be true. If Dom Ricardo wasn’t my father, why all the effort to put me away? “Look around you, Peter! What more proof do you need?” she asked. “Would a father do this to his son? A place like this is for enemies, not family.” I felt my heartbeat pulsing through my wounded hand. There was no one to believe. I couldn’t even trust myself anymore. “What does Dom Ricardo want from me?” “My client has taken extreme measures already,” she said. “Ordinarily there would be no going back. You might stay here until your hair and teeth fell out. But I phoned him personally moments ago. I explained this Daveison situation, how you have been victimized, so to speak. My client is a powerful man, but a father himself, and a good one at that. His only request is that you surrender your visa.” “Let me speak to him. Please.” “Mr. Randolph, you have this unfortunate habit of not listening,” she said. “Let me make our offer clear: You will leave the country. You will pursue this no further. In exchange, we will see to it that the charges against you are forgotten. I studied my hand, blood and iodine leaking through the gauze. The lawyer stood from her chair. “You’ll be happy to know that Mr. Daveison is here. Allow me to fetch him. I’m sure our generosity will be abundantly clear.” She left the room, and a moment later, into the cell walked Daveison. On his face, a look of panic, as if he’d been cornered. 295 Peter, he said, Gracias a Deus. “I found him,” I said, too exhausted for Portuguese. “Dom Ricardo. I followed the Jockey Club.” Outside the examination room window, the lawyer stood speaking to the médico who passed her a chart. You can tell me all about it later, Daveison said. We need to get you out of here now. Home to your father. “They said you were lying.” This is your only chance, Peter. They are willing to forget about the break in. If you just go now. This could get much worse very quickly, for both of us. The lawyer poked her head through the door. “This is one time when you can believe him, Peter.” Daveison took a step away from me, to the corner of the cell. “But Dom Ricardo?” I said. “Why would he care so much?” “Final offer,” the lawyer announced from the hallway. Daveison called to her: “He’s ready to go home now.” Three zeladors swarmed the room. I lay back on the cold stainless steel of the examination table, as if they were about to cut me open. Instead they clipped my ID bracelet like a flower stem, handed over my clothes in a Ziploc bag. “This has been a wise choice,” the lawyer said, passing me an envelope from her purse. “Now if you’ll excuse me, I must get to a match.” I opened the envelope. An exit visa, a one-way ticket to Portland. Poof. 296 We emerged from the manicômio gates, onto the street. It had all happened just a few blocks away from the Tijuca National Park, and now a tour bus turned into the park entrance, passengers pointing cameras out the window. The sky this morning was sapphire, white at the edges. Driving back into the city, the hands of Cristo Redentor were visible in the unraveling fog. “How did you know I was here?” I asked. “Your father Michael call from U.S.,” Daveison said, searching for words in English. “He play for me your message. Just last night. I come right away, but no visitors until morning.” “She said you were a vulture. That none of what you said was true.” “I thought you just want a few answers, a few stories. I think, good reason for Peter to come visit Brazil. Not take it so far. No harm, just a few answers.” “What are you saying? “Peter, how do you say? Things are no good for me here lately.” He clenched the steering wheel. “I needed the money, my friend.” “But the envelope I showed you. The letter she sent.” “I must speak of the truth,” Daveison said. “There was a time when we, when Abigail, when we would send those letters. To bring peace to the families.” “What? That’s not possible. Why?” “They were like fairy tales. We thought the children would outgrow them. Really, Peter. Did you think that your birth mother knew her ABCs?” For all the reading and traveling, for all the nights of imagining, I had blinded myself to this simple reality: If Sonia could read, if Sonia could write, she wouldn’t have 297 had to give me up. Did Mom know the letter was false? Is this why she never wrote back, why she kept the envelope hidden all those years? Or did she daydream like I did? “This is ninety-percent my fault--” Daveison said. “Ninety-percent--” “But I will make amends for it, Peter, I promise! But we must go now. To the airport. Time is most important. I will take care of your apartment, have your things sent to you. I will take care of everything.” But I was too exhausted to be furious at Daveison. At this moment I only wanted to leave, to get home, to set my foot on American soil. I gazed out the window as we drove to the airport. We passed billboards, phone booths, children tapping shoulders at the sidewalk cafés, palms out. “Can you forgive me Peter?” Daveison asked. Searing through the tunnels, my pupils widened in the dark. “I just don’t want you grow up thinking you were another whore’s child.” When we emerged into the light, it was clear to me why Dad never wanted me to open this door. Now that I’d seen the other side, it was impossible to forget how close I’d come to not having this life. 298 Dad waited for me on the other side of U.S. Customs in Portland. A federal agent stood nearby, squeezing a cell phone between his neck and shoulder as he jotted notes on a pad. Dad grasped me in his arms. I hadn’t seen him in three months, and in that time his hair had lost its last strands of color. The lines on his face were canyons. “Let me see that hand,” he said, peeling back the gauze. “Jesus.” “It’s fine.” “We need to get you to a doctor.” He inspected me inch by inch, and satisfied that I was otherwise intact, he took a step back. “What the hell did you get yourself into?” “It’s not how it seems.” “Breaking and entering, Peter!” he said. “They have pictures, fingerprints--it’s exactly how it seems!” The customs agent glared at us, plugging an ear with his fingertip. When he finished his call, he escorted us into a small office for paperwork, his desk a neat rectangle that smelled of pine. 299 “To be quite honest,” he said, capping his pen, “I’ve never seen such a generous deal. We’ve revoked your visa, but you’re free to walk. For our part, we won’t be pressing any charges.” “This won’t happen again,” Dad said. “Consider yourself very lucky,” the agent said. “Whatever happened down there, you have some friends in high places.” The first order of business was repairing my hand. The agent directed us to an urgent care clinic near the airport. The hospital waiting room, like coming home. The nurse irrigated the gash. An x-ray showed the bones intact. The second and third digital nerves had been severed. For now, 25 stitches, antibiotics, and a tetanus booster. In a few months, surgery. Dad and I watched the doctor work in silence, no words worth exchanging in public. We left the city, engine running hot. Silence, save for the radio news, the Dow Jones Industrial Average, Afghanistan, the American League pennant race, a whole world spinning on. Soon the highway narrowed into two lanes cutting into the forest. Snowmelt waterfalls cascaded down the cliffsides. We rounded Mount Hood, the familiar path to the desert, roadside flanked by the charred remains of the early summer forest fires, hillsides of timber like burnt matchsticks. The odometer turned, mile after mile of quiet, so much unsaid between us that to choose a first word was to pick a knife. It wasn’t until we were halfway home that Dad finally spoke. “I should have stopped you before you left,” he said. “Since when are you allowed to stop me?” 300 “You’ve always made too much of this.” “Too much of what? My life?” “Tell me just one thing,” he said, eyes flitting from the road to the rear view. “What is it that we didn’t give you?” “This was never about you and Mom,” I said. “Exactly,” he said. “It was about you. Even when your mother was dying, it was always about you.” “It’s not that,” I started. “It’s--” But I didn’t know how to finish. When it came to talking about Mom, we had only ever learned the language of prescription warnings, test results, insurance statements--no words to describe this ache. “I just needed something else.” Out the window, pine forest, a green blur. “So you had to run off and do your little investigation? “I couldn’t just live the rest of my life not knowing.” “Nobody asked you to wait the rest of your life,” he said, “but the flowers hadn’t even wilted yet.” The truck rumbled, tires dipping off the shoulder momentarily. “Your mother used to say you just had a wild imagination--” “Who’s the one who kept feeding me bullshit all those years? She thought she could just buy me a fucking flag and I’d forget about Brazil?” “Peter, stop.” “Stop? That’s all we’ve ever done is stop. You couldn’t even stand to look me in the face and talk about it! Why couldn’t you just tell me the truth--my birth mother was 301 an illiterate a servant, my birth father was an asshole who didn’t want me. Is that so hard? Did you think I couldn’t handle it?” Dad slowed the truck, pulled the car to the shoulder. Gravel snapped up into the wheel wells. Traffic overcame us. “Sometimes stories are better,” he said. “I didn’t want stories. I didn’t need a fairy tale. It may have been better for you and Mom, but it wasn’t better for me.” “Fine,” he said, touching his head as if it ached. “The truth is, someone called the orphanage…” He turned to the window. “Listen, what happened was… you see, this lady saw a towel on the sidewalk. She heard something inside--” “--Wait--” “And it was you, Petey.” A semi-truck blared past, rocking the truck on its axels. Dad shifted into gear. We rumbled back onto the asphalt. Dusk. The forest thinned out into desert. I didn’t come to my senses for miles and miles, not until we saw that first sign for Partway. 302 That summer the Pandora moths came late. I remember catching a single A baseball game with Dad in September. We sat under the stadium lights, moths swarming overhead, the diamond growing dim. In the 3rd inning, outfielders began dropping routine fly balls. The moths smoked on the hot bulbs, fluttered crispy into our beer cups. We pinched the charred bodies from the foam, tossed them over our shoulders, and kept drinking. In the middle of the 5th , the umpires killed the lights and called the whole thing off. Chuck found me a job with the company that scooped up The Pioneer. Easy work, writing Spanish ad copy for the auto section. I sank back into the United States. Health insurance, 3% matching annuity. First world plumbing. Clean, orderly lines. Wheelchair ramps and emergency fire sprinklers, the microfibers of infrastructure. Iced lattes. Fifteen dollar lunches. Worrying about deductibles and surgery and the loss of sensation in my hand. Forgetting about Brazil and international clips. Forgetting to visit the cemetery. In November Gary took his soccer team to the state tournament. They got their asses handed to them in the quarterfinals, but he won Coach of the Year. By Thanksgiving he was fielding job offers from up and down the west coast. He surprised the shit out of everyone by leaving his job mid-semester--before he had too much time to 303 think it over, he said. San Diego, he said. Lots of sun and Mexican girls. He didn’t tell anyone until his truck was packed. With the money I paid him back, he bought a new Skilsaw for the woodshop. With his last paycheck, he ordered a brand new set of uniforms for his team, striped like Flamengo. The poor kids cried when he left. He told them sometimes you just gotta jump. Then he did. Hardly any snow fell that winter. The Cascades were gray and bare except for a few old glaciers melting down the peaks. The ski resorts manufactured powder to stay open. In Portland it was clear and sunny, 60 degrees in January, everyone looking up at the sky like something was broken. Then in March, Partway froze, hard and fast. Dad needed help with the lambs. On a Saturday morning we spread fresh straw in the birthing pens, set the heat lamps on a timer. That night he woke me. I squinted at the clock--4 a.m. I slipped on my boots and jacket in the dim hallway and stumbled out to the barn, air heavy with blood and manure. A ewe was hemorrhaging. One of the lambs had already arrived, steaming in the cold. I gripped the ewe by the neck while Dad tugged at the half-birthed twin. It came stillborn, but the ewe went to licking it anyway, left the healthy twin writhing in afterbirth. Dad leaned against the wall of the pen, out of breath, bloody hands on his knees. He yanked the ewe over to its healthy lamb, yelled and cursed at her, but she kept going back to the stillborn. I took the dead one in my arms and carried it out to pasture. We’d bury it tomorrow. When I returned to the pen, the ewe had gotten the right idea, but Dad was on the straw, sobbing into the sleeve of his flannel. 304 The anniversary of Mom’s death. She wouldn’t want us feeling sorry. We treated it like a birthday, got dressed up for the Sizzler. It used to be that Mom and Dad let me start on the salad bar while they waited in line to pay. Now Dad and I waited in line together. “Go on and get started,” he insisted, but I couldn’t stand to see him alone at the register. I lingered just behind him and paid before he could reach for his wallet. We sat down together. It was only when the bus girl came over that we realized we’d ordered three Pepsis. Dad peeled open two straws, the way Mom liked, and stuck them in the extra cup. Our first good laugh. Folks looked at us like we were crazy, but we chowed down like old times. Things were getting better, week by week, month by month, which is why I didn’t tell Dad when I saw the obituary. It ran that winter in The Oregonian, not long after New Year’s. I was riding MAX home from work when I saw Abigail Long, dead at 86…responsible for more than 340 Brazilian children being adopted to the U.S. from Brazil, the article read, many of them right here in Oregon… Maybe they ran one in the Partway Weekly Shopper. If so, then Dad had seen it. These days he turned straight to the obituaries, reading up on all the ways there were to die. If he saw Abigail’s, it probably gave him a sense of relief, a door finally closed. But I had to go to the service. It was held at the St. Augustine Catholic Church in northeast Portland. A rainy day, near freezing. The street sweepers hadn’t passed and gusts sent trash fluttering along the curbs. I’d forgotten my umbrella on the bus and by the time I reached the church I looked like hell. The pews were full of people of all colors on their knees. 305 The mass was led by a priest named Father Paulo. His face and hands looked like chicken skin, and his left eye perpetually wept so that periodically he had to dab at it with a white cloth. He spoke to the assembled, said that what we all had in common was Abigail Long. “She even found a home for me,” he said. “And you don’t have to look very hard to see that was no easy task.” Father Paulo said that Abigail considered all of the children at Esperança her kids, and she spent accordingly. Every last nickel had gone to cleft lip surgery, eye glasses, and dental work. But now Father Paulo pointed our attention to the casket, which gleamed, and thanked everyone for contributing. “Abigail was part of a long line of Rio saints,” he said. “In olden times, orphans were so common that people would find them tucked in the bushes like Easter eggs. Folks would deposit the foundlings in turn boxes outside the convents, and spin the wheel, and on the other side would be nuns waiting to give that child a name and a home. No matter the child, a name and a home…” The reception was held at a private residence a few blocks away from the church. The house seemed to barely be able to fit everyone. I hardly recognized a face and didn’t bother with a nametag. The food was in the living room, but mourners gravitated toward the kitchen anyway. On the refrigerator door were photos of dozens of Abigail’s kids, a giant collage, sticky notes explaining what each was up to now. Freshman at Reed. History Teacher. Graphic Designer. Paramedic. Mechanical Engineer. Network Specialist. Names like Andre Robinson, Lindsay Butler, and Rachel Steinlobowitz, Brazilians by blood, something else by name. Someone had taped up an old photograph from one of those 306 Memorial Day weekends at the petting zoo. Ana Luiza, Roger, and me, standing in the sun, shade of the fir trees falling on our shoulders. Only one label: Ana Luiza Schremp Veterinary Assistant. I remembered the night Ana Luiza taught me that tongue twister. Três tratos de trigo para três tigres tristes. Our parents were inside, watching a slide show. The two of us lay out on the trampoline, gawking at the stars. No moon. The sky was a deep purple cloth full of puncture holes. Coyotes whined off in the distance. An owl swept across the barnyard like a specter. A motion light triggered, flaring over the mountain lion cage-Abe and Sarah pacing, eyes like drops of fire. Três tigres tristes para três tratos de trigo. Now a hand on my shoulder, Ana Luiza. She’d grown taller and when she smiled her cheeks rose and dimples appeared at the corners of her mouth. “Long time no see, huh?” she said. “Wow. Hi.” “I hear you’re doing good,” she said. “I’m sorry about your Mom. She was always really nice to me, you know? When we had those parties, she never tried to teach me English or anything. She would just want to sit and talk.” “So veterinary assistant, huh?” “It’s just a fancy title for someone who gives enemas,” she said, smirking. The scars around her mouth had grown faint with time, marks you would only notice if you knew the stories behind them. “So someone over there told me you finally made it to Brazil?” 307 “Yeah,” I said, looking into the next room. I didn’t realize anyone here knew me well enough to talk about what happened. I tucked my bad hand in my pocket. “I was doing some writing.” “Like a book?” “Just some articles,” I said. “It wasn’t what I was expecting, I guess.” “What were you expecting?” “I’m not sure.” Now other visitors crowded around the kitchen table where Father Paulo had spread out Abigail’s old photo album, pictures there for the taking. Families lined up to search through the pages. “So many of us,” I said. “You still think about Esperança a lot, huh?” Ana Luiza said. “All the time.” “It’s so funny,” she said. “Why’s that?” “I mean, you were hardly there.” We stepped apart to make room for a woman slipped past to the photo album. “Hey, I got a letter from Roger,” Ana Luiza said. “I didn’t know you two stayed in touch.” I remembered Roger standing on the shoulder of the road his first year in Partway, waving at semi-trucks as they blared past, signaling for the drivers to blow their air horns. The sound collapsing him into giggles. “He’s in Afghanistan. I don’t think he has anyone else to write to,” she said. “He’s been there three times. Talk about a hard life.” 308 I wondered what life Roger would have had if Mom and Dad would have taken him that year in high school, but I stopped the thought before it took root. These days I was leery about imagining all those other lives. “We’re all so different now,” I said. “I know. I was sort of a freak. I try not to think of when I first got here. It was hard. Like I wanted to go home, only the door was always locked.” “What made it better?” “Time, I guess,” she said. “And Mom. She tried like really hard with me. I once stabbed her in the cheek with plastic fork,” she said. “Can you believe that?” “So you never think about Esperança? You know, how things could have been?” “Maybe,” she said. “I don’t know, I guess things could have been different. But I like where I am now. If you do write a book, you should put that in there. Like Father Paulo said, we are all really lucky.” Outside gray waves of clouds began to move, dimming the road. The landscape trees on the street brushed side to side in the gathering wind. “You feel that way, even with what happened to your sister?” “How do you know about my sister?” “I’m just asking.” “She has a nice family somewhere,” Ana Luiza said. “How do you know?” “I don’t know, I guess. But she’s somewhere. She’s fine. “She’s probably a good futebol player.” “But how do you know for sure?” 309 “I don’t know,” she said. “I just know. She loved to kick stuff around, even when she was a baby. Listen, I have to go say goodbye to Father Paulo.” “It was good seeing you.” “If you do write a book, make me pretty, okay?” “Okay.” And with that, she walked away. I remembered why I’d been compelled to kiss her so many years ago--black eyes I wanted to dive into, raven hair drawing all the light of the world. I nudged closer to the kitchen table, joined the line for the photo album. People gathered, holding pink cups of wine. Ahead of me was Larry the blue-eyed biological kid, his lip still scarred from that trampoline dunk so many years ago. He was talking to someone about his job--an adoption lawyer of all things. I avoided eye contact, conversation, not wanting to answer questions about Mom or Brazil or my hand. We shuffled forward in line, the book of origins, its strange gravity. I remembered the look on kids’ faces when they saw those pictures--tenderness, pain, wonder. Somewhere in that album was the only image of me as a newborn. Now I understood why Dad had always kept it out of reach. That photo was a thousand questions they didn’t know how to answer. Finally it was my turn. I thumbed through the pages. Polaroids, organized by age. At the beginning of the album, the infants, varying shades, varying patches of hair on their heads. Some of the babies were held in the arms of someone just outside the frame, others were on their backs on cotton sheets. On the white strip at the bottom of 310 each picture, Abigail’s cursive in black pen--a birthday, or an approximation, and a first name. I examined each page, looking for myself. If Mom were here, she would pick me out instantly by the shape of my brow or the mess of curls. But none of the pictures stood out. Then I saw a photo labeled: AVENIDA ARAÚJO – ??? a.m. - January 12, 1981. Hours old, eyes not yet adjusted to the light of the world. Born without a story, born into thin air. “Do you see yourself in there?” a woman behind me asked. “I don’t think so.” Outside it was dark. The temperature had plunged and now freezing rain slicked the sidewalk. At the bus stop, I stood under a floodlight, expelling hot breaths like ghosts. Snowflakes swirled in the light, fat enough to cast shadows on the pavement, dark spots spinning toward a center point. Here is Damien the tour guide, curing fresh rubber condoms in the flooded forest of the Rio Espelho; Essomericq the school boy in French Guiana, witnessing a launch at the space center in Kourou--rumble, flame, a rocket rips the purple sky. Here is Dashawna in the Pelourinho, keeping criança off the glue. Here is Cracolándia, meninos de rua tearing the cellophane from cases of milk; Nélida, climbing into a taxi outside the Howdy Howdy discotheque, glancing at the clock on Avenida Atlântica--good news--it’s still early yet. The blind and feeble beggars in Quissamã, now employed, sweeping cow pies off the helipad; an executive exits the chopper, adjusts his periwinkle tie, steps into a spot they missed. Três tigres tristes para três tratos de trigo. Abigail walks the beach, holding two hot cheese sandwiches. The lighthouse blinks off shore. There he is, Daveison, skinny legs sticking out from under a 311 palm leaf. Always so angry, always alone in this world. She lets him sleep, tide lapping the flowers she etches into the sand with her fingers. Daveison, years later, sneaking into the Esperança bunkhouse with a cinquenta centavo coin. Young Paulo sleeps mouth open, his melted eye weeping onto the pillowcase. Daveison lifts the pillow gently, finds a lost tooth tucked away like a gem. O Fado do Diente, harvesting in the night. João Rafael, not even eighteen yet, and already the finest jockey in Brazil, and now his heart pounding, his horse shuddering in the gate box at the Grand Prix in Paris. Calma, calma, calma. Back in his village, his baby sister Jaiva is stricken with yellow fever, but Jão pushes the news from his mind, just as he’s been trained. Bandido Vermelho snorts and stomps. Calma. Here is the bell. João snaps the reigns. The pack fights for the rail, jockeys gasping, horses grunting. The crowd sizzles in his ears. He will not hear until tomorrow that Jaiva is gone from this earth. Tonight, João is a feather, and Bandido Vermelho, a mighty train. Tonight they surge into the homestretch, a quake of hooves behind them, only air ahead. They gallop over the line--the crowd rises--João leans to his horse's ear: Tell me friend, how did we get here? Othoniel de Fogo walks the dripping streets, cradling three cócos worn smooth from juggling. He calls into the alleyways, Oi, Arminda! She hears him like this every night, but she does shout back. Edvaldo smirks, counting money in the firelight, a fortune, no? Arminda peers around the corner, her little brother breaking into a jog now, hurrying home before their mother lights candles for the Orixás. Três pratos de trigo para três tigres tristes. Roger sweating in desert tan fatigues, gazing out at sunset, flag duty at dusk. Ana Luiza trembling the first time she touches snow. Our first breaths were goodbye. My young father, teaching his son how to slit the belly of a trout, years later, scissoring courthouse briefs from The Portland 312 Pioneer. My young mother, watching doctors submerge her little boy in ice, years later, on her back in a hospital bed, searching for the button that releases analgesia. Now at the bus stop, my eyes puddle in the wind. I blink away the blur. A bus, windows glowing in the dark. Where it’s headed, I don’t care. I step aboard. The rows are empty, save for a young woman in the back, brushing a strand of hair from her face. I take the seat beside her. We are figments, twin reflections in the dark window. I touch her hand; she cannot feel me. Não preocupa, I tell her. It all turns out the way you hope. She tilts her head as if she hears the murmur of a ghost. She counts the coins in her purse. Closing her eyes, she touches her belly, tries to sense if it is a boy or a girl, as if that knowledge could be delivered through the bloodstream. If it’s a girl, she will name her Jacqueline. There will be a family who wants her, in Recife or Brasilia maybe, a home where she can work for food and school. And if it’s a boy? She does not want to imagine those names. She thinks of her father, on his knees, waiting for the afternoon whistle. Of her brother, marching on the factory in São Paolo, beaten to the asphalt, only to stand again another hundred days. She can only guess how much a cruzeiro will be worth in a hundred days, Lord help me, in two hundred days, when the child is born. [THE END]
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