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Sewing Notes 17-1
8th Grade
SMS Sewing Machine View 1
SMS Sewing Machine View 2
Sewing Machine Parts
1.
Hand Wheel – manual control – moves take-up
lever and needle up and down
2.
Thread Guides – hold the upper thread in place
as it moves through the machine
3.
Needle – feeds the thread that forms the upper
part of the stitch
4.
Stitch Length Control (Regulator) – controls
the length of the stitches
5.
Stitch Width Control – determines width of
zigzag or decorative stitches
Sewing Machine Parts
6.
Presser Foot – holds fabric in place against the
feed dogs
7.
Feed Dogs – moves the fabric during stitching –
found in the throat plate
8.
Throat Plate –seam allowance markings that
help keep stitching straight
9.
Spool Pin – holds thread spools during sewing
10. Bobbin
– small spool that form the bottom part
of the stitch
Sewing Machine Parts
11. Bobbin
Winding Spindle – hold bobbin while
thread is being wound on
12. Reverse
– button that allows the machine to
stitch backwards
13. Thread
and
Tension Control – regulates tightness
looseness of the thread
14. Foot
Feed – pedal that controls starting,
stopping and speed of the machine
15. Bobbin
Case – hold bobbin in place during
sewing – under the throat plate
Threading the Machine
Filling a Bobbin
How Stuff Works
пЃ° How
Does a Sewing Machine
actually work?
Sewing Equipment
Cutting Equipment
Small
Scissors
Shears
Rotary
Cutter
Seam
Ripper
Measuring Equipment
Tape
Measure
Seam
Gauge
Yard
Stick
Marking Equipment
Tracing
Wheel
Tailor’s
Chalk
Tracing
Paper
Miscellaneous
Pin Cushion
Ball
Pins
Safety
Pins
Sharp
Pins
Miscellaneous
Needles
Iron
Thimble
Pinking
Shears
Young Living 18-1
Preparing Your Pattern and
Fabric
Page 504
1. Using a Guide Sheet
a.
b.
c.
d.
a set of step-by-step instructions for
sewing a pattern
how to use a pattern
a diagram of the pieces
Explanation of pattern markings
Basic Pattern Markings
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Cutting Line
Stitching Line
Grain Line
Dots
Notches
Place on Fold
Dart
For specific information regarding
each marking, refer to figure 18-1
on page 507
Guide Sheet
пЃ°
Layout - Diagram of how pattern pieces
should be placed on the fabric
пЃ®
This allows for the most efficient use of fabric
– creates the least amount of waste and
ensures that all the pieces fit correctly
2. Preparing the Pieces
a.
b.
Cut apart pattern
pieces, but DO NOT
trim to exact
measurements
Study each pieces to
check for markings
1.
2.
3.
Notches
Grain line
Lengthen/shorten
3. Check Pattern Measurements
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
Check to see if the pattern fits your body
type
Make length and width alterations before
you cut
To lengthen – use parallel lines labeled
“lengthen or shorten”
Width – measure pattern pieces to
determine ease
Ease – the amount of fullness added to
a pattern for movement and comfort
4. Preparing the Fabric
a.
b.
Some fabric must be pre-washed to
avoid shrinking
Check the grain of the fabric – the
direction in which the threads run
a.
b.
c.
Selvage – the tightly woven edge with no
visible loose threads
Raw edge – the unfinished edges that have
loose threads
Bias – the diagonal of the fabric
Preparing the Fabric
c.
To see if the fabric is on grain…
a.
b.
Fold fabric so the raw edges match together
If the crosswise edges meet, the fabric is on
grain
Young Living 18-2
Starting to Sew
Page 510
1. Using Pattern Pieces
a.
Pinning
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Fold fabric so the right sides are together
Arrange pattern pieces according to layout
Lengthwise grain line should be parallel to
selvage
Do not cut any pieces until they are all pinned
in place
Place pins diagonally to cutting line – keeps
fabric flat
Place pins every 3-6 inches
1. Using Pattern Pieces
b.
Cutting
1.
2.
3.
4.
Place fabric flat on table, one hand holds
fabric, the other cuts
Cut with long even strokes
Cut around outside of notches
Leave pattern pieces pinned to the fabric until
you are ready to sew
2. Basic Sewing Skills
a.
Seam
1.
2.
3.
4.
Lay 2 pieces of fabric together
with right sides facing each
other
Line up edges so they are
even
Match all markings and
notches
Pin pieces together
perpendicular to the edge
2. Basic Sewing Skills
b.
Stitching Straight Seams
1.
2.
3.
4.
Place fabric under presser foot and line up to
seam allowance
Backstitch – stitching over ½ inch of a line of
stitching at the beginning and end to lock
threads in place
Guide fabric with both hands, but DO NOT
push
Seam Allowance – fabric between seam line
and raw edge
Thread Tension
пЃ°
The tension of your thread makes a huge
impact on your final product. Stitches
should be smooth and even.
Too Loose
пЃ°
Too Tight
Just Right
Think you tension is wrong? Rethread the
machine first!!!
2. Basic Sewing Skills
c.
Stitching Curved Seams
1.
2.
3.
Trickier than straight seams
Guide fabric so the curve is
smooth
Keep stitching an even distance
from the edge
2. Basic Sewing Skills
d.
Turning Corners/Pivoting
1.
2.
3.
When coming to a corner, Stitch the last few
stitches using the hand wheel
Lift presser foot and leave the needle in the
fabric
Turn the fabric to the correct position and
lower presser foot
2. Basic Sewing Skills
e.
Seam Finishing
1.
2.
3.
Treatments used on the seam edges to
prevent the fabric from raveling
Slight raveling - stitch Вј inch from the edge
then use pinking shears
Easy raveling - stitch a zigzag line near the
edge of fabric
2. Basic Sewing Skills
f.
Casings
1.
2.
Fabric tunnel made to enclose elastic or
drawstrings
Fold Down Casing
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
Fold garment edge Вј inch, to the wrong side
Fold edge again to be ВЅ inch wider than the elastic
Pin in place and stitch near the open edge
Leave a 2 inch opening to insert elastic
Insert elastic, stitch ends together, stitch opening
Stitch in the Ditch
D
D
A&B&C
E
2. Basic Sewing Skills
g.
Hems
1.
Fold edge to the wrong side of the fabric at
desire length
a.
2.
Some fabric require a double fold to hide the
exposed raw edge
Pin in place and stitch close to the open edge
1
2